Lack of power

[Gsbuick65]

I've got a 2011 rg 103, sometimes when I get on it it has a big bog to it. Starting doing it at 45,000 miles, first I changed the fuel filter, then fuel pump. Took it to a Harley mech. He couldn't find anything so he suggested the power vision, loaded stock tune still does it, 60,000 miles I took it to another shop, he suggested chain tensioners, so new cams and tensioners, still did it. So I put a new ignition switch as it didn't seem to work right. Changed crank position sensor, map sensor and wires. Anybody got any ideas? When he's right it runs bad ass

[kd]

You might want to re read your opening post.  It has a bid "what" to it.    It's still doing "it" (what).     

Maybe include some other info such as RPM, sound, etc..


BTW,  welcome to the site. 

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Not clear as to what you are saying.

[Hossamania]

I think "big" should read "bog".
Sounds like possible sumping.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

If sumping is creating the bog, then it'll also feel like the brakes are being applied upon releasing the throttle.

[Gsbuick65]

I think "big" should read "bog".
Sounds like possible sumping.

yep thats bog (damn auto correct), it doesnt do it all the time, it didnt do it when he dynoed it, its more noticeable when in 6th gear. not throwing any codes

[Gsbuick65]

You might want to re read your opening post.  It has a bid "what" to it.    It's still doing "it" (what).     

Maybe include some other info such as RPM, sound, etc..


BTW,  welcome to the site. 

thanks, no certain rpm, but to me it sounds like a cylinder is off? flat? 

[fbn ent]

RPM would definitely be helpful here. Are you twisting when you should be downshifting?

[Gsbuick65]

it does it at all rpms, for instance 80mph 3000 rpms, i open throttle wide open, sometimes it takes off like a bat outta hell, sometimes it just boooogs, it accelerates but it doesn't "take" off. just had s&s 570s put in. mech thought it was the tensioners throwing it off time   

[Shoreglide]

In your first post, you stated new cams and tensioners. I seriously dounbt tensioners are the issue, especially since it sometimes runs well.
Need to confirm it's not sumping before throwing more parts at it.
Also, that stock tune is far from ideal.

[Scotty]

it does it at all rpms, for instance 80mph 3000 rpms, i open throttle wide open, sometimes it takes off like a bat outta hell, sometimes it just boooogs, it accelerates but it doesn't "take" off. just had s&s 570s put in. mech thought it was the tensioners throwing it off time

When it does this have you noticed the motor getting hotter as well? Seen something similar but his was caught on the dyno and he installed a S&S cam plate & oil pump and no longer does it.

[Gsbuick65]

it does it at all rpms, for instance 80mph 3000 rpms, i open throttle wide open, sometimes it takes off like a bat outta hell, sometimes it just boooogs, it accelerates but it doesn't "take" off. just had s&s 570s put in. mech thought it was the tensioners throwing it off time

When it does this have you noticed the motor getting hotter as well? Seen something similar but his was caught on the dyno and he installed a S&S cam plate & oil pump and no longer does it.

yea it wasnt tensioners, havent noticed it getting hotter, its done it with the bike cold, at first i thought it was bad gas, one time i put in some chevron fi cleaner. it ran fine til the next tank of gas. he put it on the dyno after the cams, put out 95 hp.
im gonna put a new coil on it, see if thats it

[Jamie Long]

I've seen an assortment of bikes with these types of issues; connector issues at the throttle body, twist grip related issues, broken MAP sensor wires, faulty VSS, are just a few potential areas. Have you checked the stored DTC's?

[Scotty]

yea it wasnt tensioners, havent noticed it getting hotter, its done it with the bike cold, at first i thought it was bad gas, one time i put in some chevron fi cleaner. it ran fine til the next tank of gas. he put it on the dyno after the cams, put out 95 hp.
im gonna put a new coil on it, see if thats it

If it was sumping then the motor has to run extra hard to get the flywheels through the oil and generally the motor will get hot and quickly as it was doing on the dyno.
Stock oil pump & o-ring was changed and replaced more than a few times with no result that lasted more than a few km's
S&S oil pump and cam plate were a final decision or I think he was going to sell the bike
Maybe you need to look at the electrical side if you are sure it is not sumping.

[PoorUB]

it does it at all rpms, for instance 80mph 3000 rpms, i open throttle wide open, sometimes it takes off like a bat outta hell, sometimes it just boooogs, it accelerates but it doesn't "take" off. just had s&s 570s put in. mech thought it was the tensioners throwing it off time

Time to find a different mechanic!

Has anyone pulled the crankcase pulg and checked to see how much oil comes out?

[Gsbuick65]

it does it at all rpms, for instance 80mph 3000 rpms, i open throttle wide open, sometimes it takes off like a bat outta hell, sometimes it just boooogs, it accelerates but it doesn't "take" off. just had s&s 570s put in. mech thought it was the tensioners throwing it off time

Time to find a different mechanic!

Has anyone pulled the crankcase pulg and checked to see how much oil comes out?

I'll do that this weekend

[Gsbuick65]

I've seen an assortment of bikes with these types of issues; connector issues at the throttle body, twist grip related issues, broken MAP sensor wires, faulty VSS, are just a few potential areas. Have you checked the stored DTC's?

I replaced the map and crank sensor, no stored codes other than brake abs code.

[1FSTRK]

I would go to a good dyno shop and schedule a hour of diagnostic time, the tech should be able to reproduce the problem on the dyno and tell you the cause.

If you don't have, or don't want to go to a pro I would first perform a real sumping test just to rule it out but your description sounds more electrical/fuel related so next I would run data logs on the bike when riding until the problem appears and then go through the logs to see what was happening.

The dyno tech has the advantage of being able to control and monitor load, temperature, and speed while walking around the bike observing for things like vibrating parts as well as wiggle testing harnesses and connectors. The parts changing process can go o for ever and not find a bad wire in a harness, good diagnostics is really the best way to attack these problems.
Good luck and keep us posted.

[Gsbuick65]

I would go to a good dyno shop and schedule a hour of diagnostic time, the tech should be able to reproduce the problem on the dyno and tell you the cause.

If you don't have, or don't want to go to a pro I would first perform a real sumping test just to rule it out but your description sounds more electrical/fuel related so next I would run data logs on the bike when riding until the problem appears and then go through the logs to see what was happening.

The dyno tech has the advantage of being able to control and monitor load, temperature, and speed while walking around the bike observing for things like vibrating parts as well as wiggle testing harnesses and connectors. The parts changing process can go o for ever and not find a bad wire in a harness, good diagnostics is really the best way to attack these problems.
Good luck and keep us posted.

yea the guy that put the cams in dynoed it, it was running fine at the time so he thought it was fixed, he told me to bring it back.  guess ill do that after check for sumping. i just hate to pay someone more money to throw parts at it when i can do that, lol

[1FSTRK]

I would go to a good dyno shop and schedule a hour of diagnostic time, the tech should be able to reproduce the problem on the dyno and tell you the cause.

If you don't have, or don't want to go to a pro I would first perform a real sumping test just to rule it out but your description sounds more electrical/fuel related so next I would run data logs on the bike when riding until the problem appears and then go through the logs to see what was happening.

The dyno tech has the advantage of being able to control and monitor load, temperature, and speed while walking around the bike observing for things like vibrating parts as well as wiggle testing harnesses and connectors. The parts changing process can go o for ever and not find a bad wire in a harness, good diagnostics is really the best way to attack these problems.
Good luck and keep us posted.

yea the guy that put the cams in dynoed it, it was running fine at the time so he thought it was fixed, he told me to bring it back.  guess ill do that after check for sumping. i just hate to pay someone more money to throw parts at it when i can do that, lol

Two different things, dyno tuning and dyno diagnostics. I would not advise to pay him to throw parts at it, have him diagnose it. Discuss it up front, if he does not know the difference you need to find a better dyno shop.

[motorplex88]

Not sure what type of exhaust you have but I would also check for periodic blockage. If you end up back on the dyno you should be able to replicate and check flow.

[Gsbuick65]

Not sure what type of exhaust you have but I would also check for periodic blockage. If you end up back on the dyno you should be able to replicate and check flow.

rinehart true duals

[motorplex88]

Ok. I'm probably in left field then. I have seen some that had the internals of the exhaust come apart and block flow to the point the engine wouldn't run past an idle.

[Gsbuick65]

it does it at all rpms, for instance 80mph 3000 rpms, i open throttle wide open, sometimes it takes off like a bat outta hell, sometimes it just boooogs, it accelerates but it doesn't "take" off. just had s&s 570s put in. mech thought it was the tensioners throwing it off time

Time to find a different mechanic!

Has anyone pulled the crankcase pulg and checked to see how much oil comes out?

ok i pulled the plug, got about 8.5 ozs out of it with all the air dumped out of air shocks

[fleetmechanic]

I've seen an assortment of bikes with these types of issues; connector issues at the throttle body, twist grip related issues, broken MAP sensor wires, faulty VSS, are just a few potential areas. Have you checked the stored DTC's?

We have 3-2011 police bikes that are all stock but had some running issues and in all cases they were related to the first 3 wiring items mentioned here.