How to tell if a compensator is bad

[Velocity1]

Well I got a little further yesterday afternoon, I stumbled upon a nuts & bolts shop that also had springs and a counter guy a good 10 years my senior that knew his business.  When he measured the ID of the Beville Spring I'd put on the counter he said "Son your not going to find one of them in Australia" followed by the ID is Imperial, 3", Australia is Metric and whatever we have will be 5mm too small or 5mm too large.  Pulling out a catalog he showed me the spring range and it skips from 72mm straight to 80mm.  Nothing near 3" which is 76.xmm.

V1 if you find them in the US I'd be interested in a couple.

FSG,
I've got one now.  Haven't fooled with it as it's laying on my press next to the "suspect one." Interestingly there's subtle dimensional differences between the 2. More the outside case heights.  I'll have a spring or 2 for ya as soon as I take it apart and determine which one has lost most of its conical form and hasn't flattened out.  I'll throw them on the surface plate and measure. When I do I'll get back to you.
Waiting here in the Mid Atlantic to see if we're ground zero for hurricane Sandy.
V1

[Velocity1]

I have this NIB.. It was for a 2001 Night Train, my Brother traded in his bike before install..

I may have previously quoted the wrong post by accident. 

What is the operating principle or guts of the Fisher Concepts comp? Or is it just one of there inertial balancer devices attached to a sprocket? Anybody use one?  Results?  I too have a NIB BDL 24T comp. assy.  Reluctant to install it after what I read here about them.  That's why I'm going to build-up an OEM type comp with the extra spring and try that first.

Through all this reading and looking at the excellent diagramming, (FSG), and math equations, (PC_Hater), of the OEM comp. assy. function by design, it's quite aparent that ultimate performance of the compensator is based on many variables. At the point of final torque when installed, it is what it is whether good or bad. Granted by design it was only intended to support stock power input, however the sum of its parts are fairly robust. It seems pretty obvious the spring pack and final torque are the culprit.  BTW I've never torqued my comp. nut to more than 160 lb./ft. per my FSM. I noticed some of you here are north of this number to the tune of 175 lb./ft. if memory serves me?

[Spudislandbiker]

That is what it is supposed to do. The end of the sleeve nut should not contact the splines on the crank shaft, but the outer shoulder should tighten solid against the shaft extension which squeezes the inner shim, rotor washer, rotor, and seal spacer against the outer timken bearing and sets the load on the bearing. That is where the pressure from the 160 ft lbs goes. The comp spring preload is predetermined by the thickness of the spring pack. If you do not have enough spring pressure you you need a new spring pack. If you have taken the tq load off your shaft extension and placed it on your spring pack some how your running with your rotor and outer timken loose.
[/quote]

Very Helpful explanation.... I there anyway of checking whether spring(s) have a preload when torqued? Can you get something into where the spring is to see if it has pressure on it? Or is it all math?

[1FSTRK]

You can tighten the sprocket shaft nut until it contacts the outside of the spring pack. Make sure the to rotate the comp so the ramps are at the bottom with no load.At this point you should be able to turn the spring pack by hand and feel some drag. Now mark the nut on the outside face at 12:00. Tighten while counting the turns and with the number of turns and the threads per inch you can calculate the preload compression height. If you want to know preload lbs you will need some type of spring tester but you will now know what compression height to check pressure at.

[Velocity1]

Through all this reading and looking at the excellent diagramming, (FSG), and math equations, (PC_Hater), of the OEM comp. assy. function by design, it's quite aparent that ultimate performance of the compensator is based on many variables. At the point of final torque when installed, it is what it is whether good or bad. Granted by design it was only intended to support stock power input, however the sum of its parts are fairly robust. It seems pretty obvious the spring pack and final torque are the culprit.   BTW I've never torqued my comp. nut to more than 160 lb./ft. per my FSM. I noticed some of you here are north of this number to the tune of 175 lb./ft. if memory serves me?

Over charging the spring pack with an additional bellville washer seems like the logical minimum providing additional resistance for the higher power output to overcome in a high performance application. I may use this storm and down time as motivation to build the experimental modified OEM comp. and install it.

[arnold_schachat]

I am planning to experiment with the Belleville Spring assembly on the Rotor/Spring Cover part# 40356-07. Does anyone know the outer diameter (OD), inner diameter (ID), material thickness, overall height and spring material of the 4 Belleville spring washers installed in 40356-07?

[arnold_schachat]

2008 - FLSTC. I removed the outer primary and compensator assembly (40296-06). I removed all the 4 Belleville washers from the Rotor/Spring Cover (40356-07).

The following dimensions of the Belleville spring washers were recorded:
OD=104.47mm
ID=76mm
Thickness=2.46mm
Height=4.39mm

Answered my own question-maybe it will be of help if you are wanting to restore collapsed/broken or weak Belleville spring washers in your Rotor/Spring Cover (40356-07).

[Smarty]

I have been running with an extra medium bellevue washer placed the same direction as the outside medium bellevue washer. Been running this way for 2 fears. The wear pattern on the cams now are from the center to about half way up the cam lobe. No noise what so ever with the tensioner adjusted correctly. Quietest compensator I've had since my 04 Ultra.