86 Clutch Diaphragm Spring Adjust/ Pack Height

[_Brian_]

Picked up an 86 FXR, completely stock and cannot for the life of me get the clutch diaghram adjusted. Im not new to Harleys but new to the diaghram adjustment. When following the manual, no matter what position (ABC), I cannot get the spring less than  .010  It only goes to .035 on B "Max Pressure" setting . Friction are .088 and steels are .048, all within spec. Thinking I might need to add a steal. Anyone know the height of new friction stack or overall pack height?

[Burnout]

If that is a 4 bolt hub your troubles are just beginning......

[_Brian_]

If that is a 4 bolt hub your troubles are just beginning......

Thats what I hear.

Some have no problems and others have many.

[Burnout]

All will have problems eventually. Don't make it work too good it will split the hub and roll the key over.

I would not even mess with it because if it fails you will be down in the riding season. If it fails far from home you are screwed (no warning).

I'd get a take out gearset off ebay and a late EVO or Early TC clutch, it will love you long time.
Check out the starter gear position for compatibility. Someone sells bolt on ring gears in both fine and coarse teeth.
I used a Bandit Super Clutch in mine and have not been able to break it.

You can also switch to the better style ball ramp clutch release cover.

While you are at it replace the front final drive pulley with the 95(?) up wide spline and short spacer.
The skinny hub sprockets will shear the lock screw and eat up the splines.

[sgr]

I ran my original friction plates for over 175,000 miles on my '86
steel plates were replaced twice - when you cant get the adjustment, the book says add a steel as a spacer (last plate) and start over,  When you cant get the spring adjusted again, replace all the steels. (minus the extra)

as for splitting the hub at the keyway- do NOT use an impact wrench to tighten the clutch hub  - Torque very carefully, and be sure to use red loctite.  Most hubs are damaged by over torquing or jumping around if the nut backs off due to improper loctite application.

[xlfan]

Back in the day,  there was a reinforcement ring available for the keyway on the backside of the inner hub.

I seem to remember no problems with splitting the keyway after I started to use those.

[Ajayrk]

The aluminum spring retainer has worn down.  If Barnnet still has a replacement use it.The aluminum it is made if is a little harder material. In a hurry, counter bore the deepest holes .030 deeper an turn off the raised edge and round of the outer edge of the retainer.

[Ajayrk]

stack height. Should be .885 - .900 new.

[Ajayrk]

Barnett spring and retainer.
https://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Performance-Products-Clutch-502-00-01004/dp/B000MY8380/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BGHY90P23XXD6F7HXYWT

Also check energy one for clutch plates

[FSG]

Back in the day, there was a reinforcement ring available for the keyway on the backside of the inner hub.

I seem to remember no problems with splitting the keyway after I started to use those.

they are still available   

[Burnout]

I split one hub, I put a re-enforcing ring on a new hub, split that shortly afterwards, I no longer bother trying to work with that broken design.
I'd rather have one of the old 3 or 5 stud 4 speed clutches than that POS.
I know what the MOCo was trying to do, reduce the rotating mass of the clutch hub, but they took it too far.
The keyway has a sharp inside corner that promotes cracking and the small inner diameter of the basket bearing limits the thickess of the material in the keyway area to paper thin.

You can't make chicken salad out of chicken