I was looking for a primary locking tool and seen the Jim's for 50.00 and a lot of cheaper ones, does it matter?
Make one http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=1086.0
or http://www.heartlandproducts.net/primary-drive-locking-tools/
As per the above link, the length is important and it is not a one size fits all kind of thing. One size will fit several but you got decades of different models.
I made one out of an old lawn mower blade. :wink:
I made a bar out of a piece of 1/2" cutting board plastic and I just snapped.
Made my own with a piece of stainless flat bar stays in my tool box thanks to this site
and the drawing. Bob
Quote from: Tracker1 on December 06, 2018, 12:16:51 PM
I made a bar out of a piece of 1/2" cutting board plastic and I just snapped.
Yeah, plastic is a little overwhelmed by over 100 pounds of torque on steel gears!
I seen a video on You Tube of a guy that says his was made out of wood.
Quote from: Tracker1 on December 06, 2018, 01:15:14 PM
I seen a video on You Tube of a guy that says his was made out of wood.
Like plastic, it's a good way to get hurt. Make or buy a metal one and be done with it. And don't use the stair step one.
Quote from: Coyote on December 06, 2018, 01:31:08 PM
Quote from: Tracker1 on December 06, 2018, 01:15:14 PM
I seen a video on You Tube of a guy that says his was made out of wood.
Like plastic, it's a good way to get hurt. Make or buy a metal one and be done with it. And don't use the stair step one.
What's the issue with the stair step one?
I just ordered a Jim's bar, I wasn't hot on that step block. Years ago I used a bar.
I made mine from ash. Straight grain, 1/2" thick, 2" wide. I've used it several times, no trouble. 175#'s on comp nut.
Quote from: 1canvas on December 06, 2018, 03:10:48 PM
I just ordered a Jim's bar, I wasn't hot on that step block. Years ago I used a bar.
So you paid $50 instead of $15. :idunno:
You can get 3/16" Stock Bar from Lowes for $5 and make all four https://www.dropbox.com/s/e20tv0vz0i4yut7/Primary%20Locking%20Bars.jpg?dl=0
I would also like to know the "why not" of using the "step" style?? is it stressing anything/stretching the chain?
Just want to know
Thanks
steps were used for years with no problems then .......
I forget the year, lets say 2006, they changed the locating of the inner primary on the engine case and trannie,
off the cuff the did away with some of the locating dowels AND if the Squirrel Steps were used it caused the inner to rotate slightly and break the seal it had, other cracking damage was likely as well
safest thing to do was just use a locking bar
FSG, thanks, I've been using one for years on Evo's and lately, my 2004 Flh.
I've had the drawing of the bar style off of here for years of two different ones, just never made either of them, and now I see there is another
For my 12 EG I just cut a piece of aluminum flat (1.5" x 1/4") down until it fit.
I was just going to comment on this but you beat me to it. When I worked in the aircraft shop we had to lock gears all the time to undo locking nuts etc. If I had ever used a piece of steel I would have caught holy hell. Aluminum only! Chipping a sprocket with steel is a real possibility.
kk
Quote from: 92flhtcu on December 06, 2018, 04:08:05 PM
I would also like to know the "why not" of using the "step" style?? is it stressing anything/stretching the chain?
Just want to know
Thanks
On the late models the engine sprocket it larger dia. Steps might not match up correctly. Personally, I think the step is a cave man method, slightly better then shoving an old screwdriver handle in there. Now that's hard on the chain. Locking bar a larger surface of the chain to take the loads.
Ron
:agree: .... and I expect it's not to friendly on the sprocket shaft that is being forced of it''s axis from one location. With the bar you share (spread out) the load on the chain and between the 2 sprockets and shafts.
Quote from: FSG on December 06, 2018, 04:50:59 PM
steps were used for years with no problems then .......
I forget the year, lets say 2006, they changed the locating of the inner primary on the engine case and trannie,
off the cuff the did away with some of the locating dowels AND if the Squirrel Steps were used it caused the inner to rotate slightly and break the seal it had, other cracking damage was likely as well
safest thing to do was just use a locking bar
Yes, see TT212 in Tech Tips (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=11130.0) (that you posted before)
Quote from: 14Frisco on December 06, 2018, 07:58:47 PM
Yes, see TT212 in Tech Tips (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=11130.0) (that you posted before)
Yes, I'm away from home and my library so just going on memory (without looking too far on HTT),
CRAFT is slowly setting in but I'll eventually remember the tune 🎶
Quote from: 76shuvlinoff on December 06, 2018, 06:19:43 PM
For my 12 EG I just cut a piece of aluminum flat (1.5" x 1/4") down until it fit.
Any metal softer than the drive parts will do. Mine's 2" x 1/4" Mild steel.
$50 USD is outrageous!
I always used the step one , this makes me want to make some up at work , wandering why the 2" x 1/2" notch in FSG drawing ?
About primary locking tools => https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=54582.msg
Quotewandering why the 2" x 1/2" notch in FSG drawing ?
not my pic, don't use photobucket for starters and wouldn't remove a comp with the adjuster still installed, that's just outright lazy, but you can see the notch provides clearance for the ring gear on pre 06 dyna & 07 models
(https://i.imgur.com/w4CfQ59.png)
Quote$50 USD is outrageous!
yeppers BUT good money if you can get it from the unsuspecting punter 😊
TY FSG
The notch must be to make it two different models.
Quote from: Coyote on December 06, 2018, 03:23:36 PM
Quote from: 1canvas on December 06, 2018, 03:10:48 PM
I just ordered a Jim's bar, I wasn't hot on that step block. Years ago I used a bar.
So you paid $50 instead of $15. :idunno:
Nope, 30.00 on eBay. I ok with that.
Indeed on the newer models it is important to use the lock bar instead of the old stepped-rubber block. For my 2012 FLHTK I made a lock bar from a piece of 0.25" thick X 1.0" wide mild steel bar that I bought from Lowes. I cut off a piece 5.95" long, rounded each end, and stenciled the part number and "6-speed" on each side to make it look "official". It worked perfectly for changing out my compensator recently whereby the compensator screw must be torqued to 175 ft-lbs.
Best,
Jason
[attach=0,msg1270741]
Quote from: chaos901 on December 07, 2018, 08:35:21 AM
The notch must be to make it two different models.
The notch is needed to get around the starter ring gear. I needed to make locking bar that way for my 2001 Ultra.
Quote from: Maddo Snr on December 06, 2018, 08:35:47 PM
Quote from: 76shuvlinoff on December 06, 2018, 06:19:43 PM
For my 12 EG I just cut a piece of aluminum flat (1.5" x 1/4") down until it fit.
Any metal softer than the drive parts will do. Mine's 2" x 1/4" Mild steel.
$50 USD is outrageous!
Actually, the 50.00 price came from the dealer for the plastic step one. Even more outrageous.
I used the bar today and it worked great.
Quote from: 1canvas on December 10, 2018, 12:49:57 PM
I used the bar today and it worked great.
...and that ain't the last time you'll use it. Next time you need one, you'll just grab it somewhere in your garage in seconds.
Made my own years ago out of mild steel bar. Cost me nothing.