Recommendations on (kind of) big inch build

[les]

I've got an extra engine sitting in my engine bench.  It's from a 2010 touring.  I'm thinking about making it a project.  I really like big inch engines and would like to feel that again by eventually dropping it into my 2011 Road King.

I have some money, but don't want to spend a ridiculous amount either.  Also, since it's an extra engine I can spread the work out over some period of time.  By big inch, I'm thinking 116" and up.

Advice and recommendations are welcome.

(The current engine on the bench is a Donut Build that I did for a guy before we dropped a 120R in his bike.  I ended up buying the engine off him.)

[Don D]

113-117" are versatile and can be done with readily available parts. With a case bore and oem ported heads these builds are very strong. Also don't forget a 110 bolt-on, now a case bore is not needed.
Problem with all of these larger builds is you will be knocking on $5500 parts and machine work after case and crank work and you are now you are close to 124" crate motor or a 124 kit for the same dollars. They will all need a stout clutch, bigger tb and injectors to live and perform to their potential.

[Ohio HD]

You have to give your budget, or the ideas will be all over the map. One guys idea of a little money will differ from another guys.

[Templer]

Just do a 124 and  "BE DONE WITH IT!!"

[Matt C]

With a turbo!

[C-Cat]

I'd say a budget 110ci.If you're splitting the cases 124 to get the most bang for dollars spent.

[prodrag1320]

do a 4.250" x 4.375" 124"

[dsvracer]

i would suggest the 117. relatively inexpensive, make lots of power and is very durable, long lasting.  it has it all.  dsv

[les]

i would suggest the 117. relatively inexpensive, make lots of power and is very durable, long lasting.  it has it all.  dsv

I was sort of thinking around that displacement too.  I can bore my own cases, perform Timken conversion, and install manual compression releases.  So, there is a lot I can do in my own garage.  I will need to send out for head work.  Yes, all of this is the same regardless on whether it's a 117" or a 124".

I'd like to spend around $3K - $3.5K.

Let's say I did a 124"  Would my dickhead flywheel rods be ok if I got the bottom trued and welded?  Or, would I need to drop a bunch of $$$ on an S&S flywheel assembly?

[Prostock]

117 4.375 stroke low compression is a great, reliable touring motor.  With correct components, 122-132 hp&tq.  2010 flywheels I believe still has the bushing on the head of the rod which can go bad. 

[Barrett]

There's a set of MVA's in the swap meet at a good price..

[locker55]

Should do the crank up anyways. With all the story's of the 95"ers with compression many of us learned twice how to do it right. Build the top and then build the bottom, Bottom up build has always been cheaper.
Never skimp on the crank, you will be happier and have more money in the long run.
I agree with HD Street Performance on the cost, then the clutch, TB, pipe, new grips......it's endless.....lol
Good luck with the way you go it.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

117".

[dsvracer]

if you want to go to a 124 a better crank will be needed.  it may appear to cost more money to buy the S&S crank but in the long run it'll be cheaper, it'll be money well spent and save you down time in the future when the hd wheels just couldn't take it anymore.  dsv

[TorQuePimp]

Have a budget in mind?

[Don D]

I'd like to spend around $3K - $3.5K.

Let's say I did a 124"  Would my dickhead flywheel rods be ok if I got the bottom trued and welded?  Or, would I need to drop a bunch of $$$ on an S&S flywheel assembly?

You need a 5\8 stroke crank to get there so a new S&S is in the cards and it has good rods.
I don't think the budget is realistic.

[N-gin]

i would suggest the 117. relatively inexpensive, make lots of power and is very durable, long lasting.  it has it all.  dsv

I was sort of thinking around that displacement too.  I can bore my own cases, perform Timken conversion, and install manual compression releases.  So, there is a lot I can do in my own garage.  I will need to send out for head work.  Yes, all of this is the same regardless on whether it's a 117" or a 124".

I'd like to spend around $3K - $3.5K.

Let's say I did a 124"  Would my dickhead flywheel rods be ok if I got the bottom trued and welded?  Or, would I need to drop a bunch of $$$ on an S&S flywheel assembly?

117 is great.
You may want to have the machine shop do the timken. Usually the cases need line bored to line thing up. Same with cylinders being not square.. may take some 💰 but a good foundation goes a long way..

Myself I'm still in the works of building a 117, but saving for the machine work is hard to do. Going on 3 years but I know it's going to be worth every penny. The head Porter is going to set my lower end up. Maybe this winter if things go well. 

[1workinman]

if you want to go to a 124 a better crank will be needed.  it may appear to cost more money to buy the S&S crank but in the long run it'll be cheaper, it'll be money well spent and save you down time in the future when the hd wheels just couldn't take it anymore.  dsv

Good advice there . I have SS cranks in both my bikes

[les]

Update:  I just ordered a 3-piece S&S 4 5/8" flywheel assembly (320-0464).  So, now we all know the base.

What's the next round of advice?  (For example, cylinder/piston kits).

[Ohio HD]

Don't you want the crank balanced to the pistons?

[rbabos]

I've got an extra engine sitting in my engine bench.  It's from a 2010 touring.  I'm thinking about making it a project.  I really like big inch engines and would like to feel that again by eventually dropping it into my 2011 Road King.

I have some money, but don't want to spend a ridiculous amount either.  Also, since it's an extra engine I can spread the work out over some period of time.  By big inch, I'm thinking 116" and up.

Advice and recommendations are welcome.

(The current engine on the bench is a Donut Build that I did for a guy before we dropped a 120R in his bike.  I ended up buying the engine off him.)

Here's my take. Hold off until you can slap in an S&S 124. It will be cheaper down the road since whatever you build will only give you short term happiness. How many of us have pissed money away only to find out later there's something better out there. Go as big as you can once and be done with it.
Ron

[les]

Don't you want the crank balanced to the pistons?

Good question.  T-Man's site says that his kit is designed to very closely match being on top of an S&S bottom end.  So, it might not be needed if I go with a kit that's already designed for this match.

[les]

I've got an extra engine sitting in my engine bench.  It's from a 2010 touring.  I'm thinking about making it a project.  I really like big inch engines and would like to feel that again by eventually dropping it into my 2011 Road King.

I have some money, but don't want to spend a ridiculous amount either.  Also, since it's an extra engine I can spread the work out over some period of time.  By big inch, I'm thinking 116" and up.

Advice and recommendations are welcome.

(The current engine on the bench is a Donut Build that I did for a guy before we dropped a 120R in his bike.  I ended up buying the engine off him.)

Here's my take. Hold off until you can slap in an S&S 124. It will be cheaper down the road since whatever you build will only give you short term happiness. How many of us have pissed money away only to find out later there's something better out there. Go as big as you can once and be done with it.
Ron

Being a spare engine, I can hold off for as long as I like.  Again, this is a bench project.  Because I have the S&S 4 5/8" crank and my JIMS 1408 can only bore casings up to 4 1/8" bore, it looks like it's a no brainer (I think).  124"

[les]

So, which cylinder/piston kit is recommended?  T-Man?  S&S?  Will an SE 4.060" cylinder kit work (if I want to make it a 120")?

[FXDBI]

So, which cylinder/piston kit is recommended?  T-Man?  S&S?  Will an SE 4.060" cylinder kit work (if I want to make it a 120")?

That's going to depend on which rod length you got with the 45/8 S&S crank..  Bob