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Recommendations on (kind of) big inch build

Started by les, November 08, 2017, 10:12:11 AM

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rageglide

Quote from: les on November 12, 2017, 08:14:53 PM
So, which cylinder/piston kit is recommended?  T-Man?  S&S?  Will an SE 4.060" cylinder kit work (if I want to make it a 120")?

HD used a different rod length for the 120" (using 4.060 bore).   You already ordered std 4 5/8 wheels.  I'd go with S&S cylinders and piston kit, OR you could go 126" and pick up from Fuel Moto...

Ohio HD

Quote from: FXDBI on November 12, 2017, 09:40:50 PM
Quote from: les on November 12, 2017, 08:14:53 PM
So, which cylinder/piston kit is recommended?  T-Man?  S&S?  Will an SE 4.060" cylinder kit work (if I want to make it a 120")?

That's going to depend on which rod length you got with the 45/8 S&S crank..  Bob


  :up:

You probably have a standard S&S 124" crank coming with the 7.659" rods, and that would commit you to using 4.125" bore for a 124" pistons. You also need to determine the cylinder height that you want to use. S&S offers two heights for TC cases, not sure about others.


les

Thank you for the heads up on the rod length situation.  I didn't realize the rod lengths of the SE flywheels were different than the S&S flywheels (both being 4 5/8" stroke).  But your point is that I need to make sure and use the appropriate cylinder and piston kit.

FXDBI

Quote from: les on November 13, 2017, 07:48:34 AM
Thank you for the heads up on the rod length situation.  I didn't realize the rod lengths of the SE flywheels were different than the S&S flywheels (both being 4 5/8" stroke).  But your point is that I need to make sure and use the appropriate cylinder and piston kit.

Yes you need cylinders that are the right length for the rods on the 45/8 crank. So your next step is to find out which rod length you ordered.   Bob

Barrett

When S$S says their 117" kit is for the stock 4.375 stroke are they including their 7.659 rods?
Am I limited to piston choice with my S$S crank?

les

The S&S flywheels are the 320-0464.  The product literature says that the rods are 7.667".  I'm a bit worried now because the picture on the S&S site shows an older style sprocket shaft (using the comp nut not the bolt style).  Before I bought it, I checked the fitment and it said it fits a 2011 touring.

Did I mess up or might the photo be wrong on the S&S site?

Ohio HD


Ohio HD

Regardless of the rod length, you haven't ordered cylinders and pistons yet. So match up the cylinder height and the known compression height of the piston you use with the rod length and base gaskets thickness.


Ohio HD

Also, just FYI, my 124" CP pistons and rings weighed 1,120 grams.


[attach=0]

les

So, it looks like the 99-06 version has the rod length I found.  Ohio has the correct figure for the 07 and up.

les


TJAH

November 14, 2017, 06:25:44 PM #37 Last Edit: November 14, 2017, 06:30:35 PM by TJAH



https://www.sscycle.com/products/4-five-eighth-inch-stroke-flywheel-assembly-without-sprocket-shaft-bearing-race-for-t124-engines-and-hot-set-up-kit-2007-16-non-balanced-hd-big-twins-and-2006-dyna-models/

[/quote]

From that link you posted, Instructions tab -> page 2 in the  "510-0105_3pieceflywheel_20131014.pdf"
http://assetcloud.roccommerce.net/files/_sscycle/5/3/7/510-0105_3pieceflywheel_20131014.pdf


• S&S produces flywheel assemblies with connecting rods of three
different lengths. Make sure the connecting rods are correct for your
application: (See Picture 1, below)
• 1999–'06 — 7.667" length - marked with one dot
• 2007–up — 7.659" length - not marked (no dot) Tapered wristpin
end for stock pistons - straight wristpin end for performance pistons
• 120R Engines — 7.575" length - marked with two dots

les

Yeah, I have been doing more digging since my last posting and found this too.  Now my stomach is churning hoping that what comes tomorrow in the mail is the flywheel assembly I'm hoping it is.

Cross your fingers.

My confusion of the day...  I've been reading the S&S instructions on their hot setup kit.  S&S is one of the vendors I'm considering getting a cylinder and piston kit from.  In the case boring instructions, it says to do an initial bore of the case spigots of 4.162" to a depth of 2.250".  I do not understand the purpose of this initial bore to the depth of 2.250" when the end final bore can not exceed 1.550".  What is this initial bore doing?  My case boring tool only goes to a depth of around 1.9".

jimlibo

keeps the pistons from smacking the cases around BDC. up to about .020 overbore

les

Quote from: jimlibo on November 15, 2017, 09:30:17 AM
keeps the pistons from smacking the cases around BDC. up to about .020 overbore

Thanks.

les

So if my tool does not bore deep enough, it looks like I'll just have to do a little bit of touch up on the left and right walls with a hand dremmel. 

les

So, I'm going down the path of the 124" (4 1/8" bore, 4 5/8" stroke).

This is my first engine casing boring for the cylinder spigots, so I'd like to get opinions on what to do about the metal on the bottom side of the bridge.  Leave them there, or cut them off?

(picture 1 of 2)

les


02FYRFTR



les

Quote from: Doodad on December 31, 2017, 04:10:17 PM
Think I'd skip the confusion and go this route. One stop shopping.

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?PHPSESSID=97c50010706800b33ae6fcdf14c8b2f6&topic=101953.0

Not sure I understand.  You're not implying that I write a check for my 124" build, are you?  My goal continues to be (each and every year) to perform more and more procedures without leaving my garage.  This year I was able to do the case boring without having to step foot outside my garage.  Actually, I only care about the end result maybe about 50%.  The other 50% is the journey getting there; without that I wouldn't even be doing it.  Sounds not a whole lot different than riding.

les

My next question, seeking advice, is about installing 2 or 3 bearing retainer screws (703B screws) into the pinion shaft bearing bore.  My 2011 engine has these but this 2010 engine doesn't. 

I've got the screws on order.  I've been told they are self tapping.  (Didn't remember that when I did the Timken conversion on my 2011 engine.)

1.  How far away from the bearing bore should the center punch be?
2.  What size drill is recommended to perfectly accommodate the self tapping 703B's?
3.  Any other options work better than the retainer screws?

mike jesse

I did not drill/tap for those retaining screws when I did my 124. Non-issue IMHO.

Barrett

January 01, 2018, 12:44:34 PM #49 Last Edit: January 01, 2018, 12:48:42 PM by Barrett
Quote from: mike jesse on January 01, 2018, 12:38:25 PM
I did not drill/tap for those retaining screws when I did my 124. Non-issue IMHO.

There's more than one on this site that came loose and did damage.
Harley wouldn't have put the retainer screws if it wasn't a problem.

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=91028.msg1064333#msg1064333