Strength of factory twin cam 110's

[shindig]

A few questions on the factory twin cam 110:

Is there a general consensus on the strength of the bottom end on HD factory twin cam 110's, hp/tq rating?

What can they handle before crank work is recommended? 

Are all factory 110's equal (year differences, different from a CVO or "S" model, etc)? 

Any must do fixes before adding more power to them without splitting the cases (oil pump, bearings, etc)?

Can you buy just 117 drop on jugs and cylinders (not whole top end kits) and if so from whom?

I am researching doing a drop on 117 on a factory 110.  Thank you in advance for all replies.

[kd]

How you ride and use the power is the biggest contributor.

[doctorevil]

 Same crank same case. if your just dropping cyl and pistons it is just an 1/8 inch oversize. Zippers makes a great drop in kit with 60% thicker cylinders.

[prodrag1320]

113" is as big as we go on 110 motors,if going 117,bore the cases for the bigger cylinders (use S&S)

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Just sent a CVO 110-117" back home 2 weeks ago.
S&S cylinders.
Used T-Man 660PS cams.
Big, broad power.

[shindig]

Thank you everyone for the replies.  Is there a general consensus on what hp/tq the bottom end of a 110 can handle? 

To be more specific, I am looking at doing a build without splitting the cases.  So no crank work, and no machining of the cases.  My options are either build my 96ci into a 107 or 110.....or sell my motor as is (it has some performance work, diamond cut, etc) and buy a take out 110ci and build the 110ci into a 117ci.  I could sell my motor for the same price I can get a stock 110.  So essentially I can build a 117 for the price of a 107 or 110...

But if the stock bottom end of a 110 is about as strong as a 96 (120ish/120ish) it doesn't make sense for me to mess with picking up a 110...  However if a stock 110 has other benefits to it, please I am all ears...

[Barrett]

My 96" crank went out with about 100hp.. It's a roll of the dice. Some last, some don't.
I ended up spending waay more than planned. 103 pistons, new cams and 1.9 valve turned into an S&S 117..

[WhackShack]

2014 CVO 110, crank scissored at 11k miles. Full exhaust and tuned via SERT, no other mods. Might have just been my luck, who knows.

[shindig]

Still haven't verified what the hp/tq rating is for the stock crank in a factory 110....  Anyone know?  Thank you.

[rigidthumper]

There is no rating done by HD. Most stage 1 CVOs, tuned, end up about 115 TQ & 95 HP.

[sfmichael]

build your existing motor - buy an S&S crank and make it any size you want

117's are good runners

[1workinman]

Several months ago I took a used cvo street glide for a ride , seemed like it was a 110 , it was almost out of warranty and I still remember buying the last used Harley at a dealer and the crank went out in less than a thousand miles . It ran ok but nothing like my SS 124 more like a tad better the 103 I had go bad . I would not put a lot of hp in a stock Harley crank . I don't feel luck

[motolocopat]

The earlier 96"  engines did have worse reputations on scissoring cranks.
None of the TwinCams were stellar.
How you ride plays a big part as does luck, hard downshifts are blamed frequently
North of 120HP would be a good place to avoid without addressing crank.

How many miles are on your 96 and what year model is it?
What mods; cams, exhaust, tuner etc do you have now?

A 110" drop on with just a freshen up good valve job on head and an appropriate cam to match your riding is probably the best bang for buck and will have you close to that 120HP mark

[Hillside Motorcycle]

A few questions on the factory twin cam 110:

Is there a general consensus on the strength of the bottom end on HD factory twin cam 110's, hp/tq rating?

What can they handle before crank work is recommended? 

Are all factory 110's equal (year differences, different from a CVO or "S" model, etc)? 

Any must do fixes before adding more power to them without splitting the cases (oil pump, bearings, etc)?

Can you buy just 117 drop on jugs and cylinders (not whole top end kits) and if so from whom?

I am researching doing a drop on 117 on a factory 110.  Thank you in advance for all replies.

Weak links on those are the colossal Comp Cams valve springs/pressure used, that destroy the lifter axles eventually.
Inner cam bearings replaced at the same time.

[sfmichael]

Thank you everyone for the replies.  Is there a general consensus on what hp/tq the bottom end of a 110 can handle? 

To be more specific, I am looking at doing a build without splitting the cases.  So no crank work, and no machining of the cases.  My options are either build my 96ci into a 107 or 110.....or sell my motor as is (it has some performance work, diamond cut, etc) and buy a take out 110ci and build the 110ci into a 117ci.  I could sell my motor for the same price I can get a stock 110.  So essentially I can build a 117 for the price of a 107 or 110...

But if the stock bottom end of a 110 is about as strong as a 96 (120ish/120ish) it doesn't make sense for me to mess with picking up a 110...  However if a stock 110 has other benefits to it, please I am all ears...

stock bottom end is a stock bottom end -  whether 96, 103, or 110

they can usually handle 110-120 hp..."usually"   I never seen a crank failure in my one year at the dealer, but I know it does happen - it's hit or miss

If you're worried put a crank in your existing motor

as Hillside said, the valve spring pressure on the 110 heads is excessive and they should be swapped

the 110 motor is no better and no worse than your existing engine

roll the dice or buy a crank - there is no right or wrong answer here

the benefits of a factory 110 are better heads (not needed if you have yours ported) and a bigger stroke crankshaft (again, no benefit if being replaced with a new S&S)

the only real benefit in my eyes is the added cubic inches and the ability to go 117 without boring or removing the engine, but you will be doing just that to do the swap

[shindig]

Thank you everyone for the replies.  Is there a general consensus on what hp/tq the bottom end of a 110 can handle? 

To be more specific, I am looking at doing a build without splitting the cases.  So no crank work, and no machining of the cases.  My options are either build my 96ci into a 107 or 110.....or sell my motor as is (it has some performance work, diamond cut, etc) and buy a take out 110ci and build the 110ci into a 117ci.  I could sell my motor for the same price I can get a stock 110.  So essentially I can build a 117 for the price of a 107 or 110...

But if the stock bottom end of a 110 is about as strong as a 96 (120ish/120ish) it doesn't make sense for me to mess with picking up a 110...  However if a stock 110 has other benefits to it, please I am all ears...

stock bottom end is a stock bottom end -  whether 96, 103, or 110

they can usually handle 110-120 hp..."usually"   I never seen a crank failure in my one year at the dealer, but I know it does happen - it's hit or miss

If you're worried put a crank in your existing motor

as Hillside said, the valve spring pressure on the 110 heads is excessive and they should be swapped

the 110 motor is no better and no worse than your existing engine

roll the dice or buy a crank - there is no right or wrong answer here

the benefits of a factory 110 are better heads (not needed if you have yours ported) and a bigger stroke crankshaft (again, no benefit if being replaced with a new S&S)

the only real benefit in my eyes is the added cubic inches and the ability to go 117 without boring or removing the engine, but you will be doing just that to do the swap

Exactly what I was looking for!  Thank you.

[Don D]

You are considering a 110 bolt on on a 96 or 103 right?

[shindig]

You are considering a 110 bolt on on a 96 or 103 right?

Yes sir.

[sfmichael]

that's a pretty good bang for the buck and no motor removal unless replacing crankshaft

this is what I would do for ease of rebuild and reasonable cost

if replacing the crank you could go 110, 113, or 117 and still not have to bore the cases depending on stroke chosen

103, 107, 110 can all be made to run very well - and beyond if desired

I have a 103 that makes over 140hp and over 130tq - but it took a lot of $$ for that one

[Mopower]

 [attach=0]

I just purchased this 2007 FXDSE with a little over 23,00 miles on it.
The original owner had a SE 251 cam and 10:5/1 SE pistons installed in 2008 with the mileage unknown, I think it's safe to say it probably didn't have many miles on it. Anyway, the dyno sheet that came with the bike shows 115 HP and 124 ft/lbs of tq. So, I would say it's been living a long time at that power level. Hope this helps.

[Dan]

Sweet looking Dyna👍

[Mopower]

Sweet looking Dyna👍

Thanks, I had to make a road trip from Texas to Florida to get it. It was a birthday present from me to me. Sometimes ya just gotta treat yourself!