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Stator Cover

Started by bullpin451, February 13, 2019, 05:59:08 PM

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bullpin451

February 13, 2019, 05:59:08 PM Last Edit: March 05, 2019, 07:54:35 PM by FSG
What do these yellow lines mean,if anything

[attach=0,msg1282186] 

Ohio HD

Someone marked it for timing with a light. Or they point to the mud doppers....   


That's actual the alternator rotor, not a cover.

BKACHE

If you take the plug out of the case (some 5" above the shaft) you can rotate the flywheel a prolly see the top-dead-center and advanced timing mark on the wheels. The lines look to be about 30 degrees or so for full advance. 
Dan

bullpin451

thanks,mine has the same marks. Maybe some factory initial tuning?

Burnout

Nope Mechanics trick so you don't have to do the messy "try to see the mark through the hole" deal
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

crock

How would you see that with the cover on ? :scratch:
Crock

Ohio HD

You remove the chain inspection cover and point the timing light in the hole towards the rotor.

72fl

Watch through the hole, but be careful as some Old Shovels have 2 marks on them, at least the 72 I had when it was timed did, don't remember what the story was but a buddy had timed it for me and was telling me about it, can't say I seen it Personally.

billbuilds

     I believe that early timing marks are from 1966 thru 1979. Later marks start in 1980.  Bill 



bullpin451


billbuilds


Burnout

Quote from: 72fl on February 15, 2019, 03:58:39 AM
Watch through the hole, but be careful as some Old Shovels have 2 marks on them, at least the 72 I had when it was timed did, don't remember what the story was but a buddy had timed it for me and was telling me about it, can't say I seen it Personally.

There are many different timing mark setups depending on who made the flywheels and what year they might be.
There may be a rear TDC mark that can be confusing (third mark).
And the marks may have different shapes.
Some have a dot, some have a line, some have 2 dots and the marks are used differently.

I prefer to use the marked alternator rotor trick.
I don't have to clean up an oily mess afterwards.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

bullpin451

I am rebuilding this bike without rebuilding the engine. I put a high output stater on and didn't give a thought to the stater cover when I disassembled it. I was just curious what the marks were when assembling. She's about ready to roll ,so I will see whats up when I fire it up. Thanks for the info folks.

JW113

Though kind of pricy for a bent piece of sheet metal, they work nicely:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-FL-FX-70-85-EZ-time-with-quick-easy-setting-ignition-timing-tool-new-/323398196605

To use this with a chain primary, drain the primary oil, fire the bike up for a few moments to through the oil off the chain, let it drain for a little while, then pull the inspection cover and check timing. Oil mess is minimal.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

david lee

just out of curiosity dosent the stator go on crank splines in any position as years ago i had mine off to rewire the alternator and dont remember having to line it up with anything.thanks

Burnout

SO you have to be nearly as smart as a timing pointer when you install the rotor!   :SM:
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Ohio HD


david lee

Quote from: Burnout on February 17, 2019, 08:01:23 PM
SO you have to be nearly as smart as a timing pointer when you install the rotor!   :SM:
yes rotor

76shuvlinoff

I've never used the timing plug except to find my marks for initial timing.  Somewhere over 20 years ago one of my buddies was going to time my bike with a light. A face full of warm oil changed his mind.  As caveman as some will insist this is I've usually got it running, advanced it until it pinged and backed it off till it didn't. This has worked for 25 years and two motors on this bike. The first mill was running when I pulled it, I just had an opportunity to fit something else.  I also don't use a VOES but might revisit that. 

However, with all that said does anybody got a pic of a timing set up using the rotor? When the barn thaws out in a few months I intend to revamp the 76. Since I will have the primary open this interests me.

Thanks
Mark
Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway

Burnout

That technique works for some but if you ride it like you stole it, it really needs to be set right.

Running around the central valley in calif before exhausting nearly a full tank of gas at full throttle it better be set right so you don't kill the motor.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Ohio HD

February 18, 2019, 04:34:08 PM #20 Last Edit: February 18, 2019, 04:39:28 PM by Ohio HD
Mark I've used them on my Shovels and on my Evo, they work good as long as you get the timing marks set to a line on the rotor. What I used to do was paint a red line at 35° advance. Align the proper marks on the flywheel in the timing port, then I used Rustoleum enamel, painted the line with a small brush. Let it dry really good for 24 hours. This way next time things are dissembled and moved, you just need to scrap the paint off the rotor, and then paint it again. 


FYI, not my pics, I just marked it up to show what I did.


[attach=0,msg1282846]

[attach=1,msg1282846]

76shuvlinoff

Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway

david lee

Quote from: Ohio HD on February 18, 2019, 04:34:08 PM
Mark I've used them on my Shovels and on my Evo, they work good as long as you get the timing marks set to a line on the rotor. What I used to do was paint a red line at 35° advance. Align the proper marks on the flywheel in the timing port, then I used Rustoleum enamel, painted the line with a small brush. Let it dry really good for 24 hours. This way next time things are dissembled and moved, you just need to scrap the paint off the rotor, and then paint it again. 


FYI, not my pics, I just marked it up to show what I did.


[attach=0,msg1282846]

[attach=1,msg1282846]
now i know where that timing gadget goes.its a wonder no one has made a clear plug that replaces the one in the crankcase for timing purposes

Hossamania

Quote from: david lee on February 19, 2019, 12:18:09 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 18, 2019, 04:34:08 PM
Mark I've used them on my Shovels and on my Evo, they work good as long as you get the timing marks set to a line on the rotor. What I used to do was paint a red line at 35° advance. Align the proper marks on the flywheel in the timing port, then I used Rustoleum enamel, painted the line with a small brush. Let it dry really good for 24 hours. This way next time things are dissembled and moved, you just need to scrap the paint off the rotor, and then paint it again. 


FYI, not my pics, I just marked it up to show what I did.


[attach=0,msg1282846]

[attach=1,msg1282846]
now i know where that timing gadget goes.its a wonder no one has made a clear plug that replaces the one in the crankcase for timing purposes

There is one available. It's kind of hard to see thru, some have used Jewelers rouge to polish it up to see better thru it.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

72fl

February 20, 2019, 05:11:53 AM #24 Last Edit: February 20, 2019, 05:16:56 AM by 72fl
Here it is :
https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Timing-Plug-Sight-Window/dp/B06XWG2VCY

Just thinking about this, another item that would suit its purpose would be a sight window, there are various styles in Brass,Aluminum,Stainless, and infinite sizes and threads.