fork fluid change 2012 ultra

[bobrk1]

I've  changed  oil  in  rear shock  with  a  vacuum  pump , has anyone  done  this  on  the  forks ?  Don't  want  to  pay  to  have  front  pulled  apart  if I  can  do  it  myself  with  the  pump . Thanks 

[motorhogman]

That's the only way I do it on my 2001 FLHT.  Every two years. 

[kink04fxd]

That's the only way I do it on my 2001 FLHT.  Every two years.

would you explain the procedure?

[Leed]

That's the only way I do it on my 2001 FLHT.  Every two years.

would you explain the procedure?

I'm interested too...

[PoorUB]

Isn't a 2012 just drain and refill?

[bobrk1]

I found  it  here  change  shock  oil , you  put  them  upside  down  I  used  a  2 by  4 put  it  under  something  heavy  like  a  table  or  back of  truck  and  push  down  until  all the  oil  is out .  Then  you  have  to  connect  pump  to  shock  I  used  rubber  plug  that  came  with  it  just  pushing  it  in hole.  You  put  oil  in  bottle  of  pump  and  while  you  pump  out  air , you  can  see  bubbles  in oil , when  you  release  nob on  pump  it will  suck in  the  oil. Was hoping  to  do  same  thing  with  forks , on my  road  king  it had air front  so I  just  connect  pump  and  sucked oil  in..

[PoorUB]

I have done the rear shock change with a vacuum pump and jar. I posted it here a few years ago.

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=22777.0

I have tried the vacuum pump on forks, specifically my 2010 but it did not work. The seals would not hold vacuum. I ended up removing the nacelle around the ignition switch, removing the fork caps, removing the drain plugs, then refilling through the caps.

[Heinz]

In my opinion a proper service includes replacing bushings and seals and inspecting the tubes for wear. The proper level of fork oil is important too. I don't see how you get that accuracy with a vacuum pump.

[PoorUB]

In my opinion a proper service includes replacing bushings and seals and inspecting the tubes for wear. The proper level of fork oil is important too. I don't see how you get that accuracy with a vacuum pump.

Excuse me? Replace seals and bushings every 25,000-50,000, (depending on year and model.), miles?

[moose]

done the same as PoorUB   in the long run it works fine    why mess with a maybe

[Heinz]

In my opinion a proper service includes replacing bushings and seals and inspecting the tubes for wear. The proper level of fork oil is important too. I don't see how you get that accuracy with a vacuum pump.

Excuse me? Replace seals and bushings every 25,000-50,000, (depending on year and model.), miles?

I put in Traxxion Dynamics cartridges in my forks and I service them myself. In order to get the best performance you need to change the fork oil every 15 to 20 thousand miles at most. I always change my bushings out when I do a fork oil change. That teflon wears pretty quickly on those bushings.  Even at 20,000 miles the teflon is often worn down close to the metal. I don't let a $5-$10 part prevent me from getting the ultimate performance out of my front suspension.

[Hossamania]

I've never pulled my forks off to change oil.

[Heinz]

I've never pulled my forks off to change oil.

If that's all you are doing then I agree. It's just that in my experience the bushings wear out quite quickly so when I change my oil I always pull the forks and replace them.

[PoorUB]

I've never pulled my forks off to change oil.

If that's all you are doing then I agree. It's just that in my experience the bushings wear out quite quickly so when I change my oil I always pull the forks and replace them.

Well, yeah, if you pull the fork tubes off the bike then it is not a big job to replace seals and bushings, but the OP was asking about a oil change, which can be done on the bike for most models.

[Norton Commando]

I've  changed  oil  in  rear shock  with  a  vacuum  pump , has anyone  done  this  on  the  forks ?  Don't  want  to  pay  to  have  front  pulled  apart  if I  can  do  it  myself  with  the  pump . Thanks

I, too, have an Ultra Limited and would like to find an easier way to change the fork oil, since I do it annually. I've been told it can be done with a Mytivac hooked up as per the attached diagram. The procedure is: with valve B closed and valve A open, pump as much vacuum as you can with the Mytivac and then close valve A and open valve B. The theory is that the vacuum trapped in the fork leg will draw the fluid into the fork when you open valve B.  I have not tried this method but intend to this spring.

[attach=0,msg1279295]

[caulk04]

WTH? You can get to the fork caps just by removing the switch cover around the ignition. Spin those off, dump in your fresh oil and you're done.

[Breeze]

WTH? You can get to the fork caps just by removing the switch cover around the ignition. Spin those off, dump in your fresh oil and you're done.

This is how I also do it. Up to 2013, the fork caps are 1 3/8". I believe they changed in 2014. I won't say there is "plenty" of room with the switch cover off, but it's sufficient.

[Norton Commando]

WTH? You can get to the fork caps just by removing the switch cover around the ignition. Spin those off, dump in your fresh oil and you're done.

This is how I also do it. Up to 2013, the fork caps are 1 3/8". I believe they changed in 2014. I won't say there is "plenty" of room with the switch cover off, but it's sufficient.

Me too. And indeed the fork caps on my '12 Ultra Limited are 1-3/8" or 35mm. However, removing and reinstalling the ignition switch knob can be tricky. Also, the quad seals are often buggered up after removing the fork caps, which may require a trip the HD dealer to replace them.

Using the Mytivac to suck the fork oil into the leg eliminates having to remove and reinstall the finicky ignition switch, quad seals, fork caps, switch cover and its screws.

In my mind, the Mytivac method is much easier, if it works. But to each their own.

Jason   

[Beave]

Fork oil change is the most neglected maintenance item.

The mityvac method is way easier, faster and less mess. The only seal you disturb is the copper washer on the drain plug.
Standard method; my experience is you will always destroy the cap seal, even a new one can be hard to seal. "Just dump it in" Yah, I tried that once. It actually requires a lot of patience that I apparently don't have.

On my 86 FLST the left fork always showed signs of moisture.  The seals and guides would last 100k.  On my 05RK the fluid is always clear and when I pulled it apart at 240k the seals were still good and the bushings showed little wear.

[Ghost Rider]

My understanding with my 2010 Road Glide is that quite a bit of the old oil gets left inside unless you remove the tube, cap bolt and spring then turn upside down to drain out and also need to pump the tube 10 times, then allow it to drain an additional 10-15 minutes. It supposedly will not all come out at the bottom of the slider. There are a few years which have this design. It might be something to do with having a damper valve which all of the 2010 Touring fairing equipped models have (not Road King). Not sure how many years were like this. I upgraded to the Premium Ride Double Cartridge fork kit and have 20,000 miles on them so my service manual may not apply to me anymore. Reading this thread reminds me I need to find out how I should service mine.

[chaos901]

I've just drained the existing, measure the new oil and pour it in the forks, pump them a few times to work it past the baffles.  Several videos out there about the process. 

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

2012 is relatively easy. Loosen the Fork Caps, Drain the Fluid, put in 8 oz and adjust 125mm, replace Cap Seal, and be on your way.

[smoserx1]

That's the only way I do it on my 2001 FLHT.  Every two years.


would you explain the procedure?

Bikes of that era have air forks and the air filler valve is located at the back of the bike.  Simply drain one leg then fill a glass with the correct amount of new oil.  I use an old style battery vent tube to slip inside the drain hole and submerge the other end in the new fluid.  Then remove the Schrader valve from the air fill and connect a mity-vac type pump and begin pumping.  The vacuum will suck the oil from the glass into the fork leg in no time.  Remove the tube and quickly install the screw.  I can do it and almost not lose a drop.  Repeat for the other side, reinstall the Schrader valve and then pressurize the forks.  It is the only way I have ever done it on my 99 FLHT and is unbelievably easy.

[Norton Commando]

2012 is relatively easy. Loosen the Fork Caps, Drain the Fluid, put in 8 oz and adjust 125mm, replace Cap Seal, and be on your way.

Sure, if you say real fast there's nothing to it. But I can assure you it's not that simple, hence the discussion about the Mytivac.

Jason

[PoorUB]

2012 is relatively easy. Loosen the Fork Caps, Drain the Fluid, put in 8 oz and adjust 125mm, replace Cap Seal, and be on your way.

Sure, if you say real fast there's nothing to it. But I can assure you it's not that simple, hence the discussion about the Mytivac.

Jason

It is not that difficult either. I would change out the fork oil on my 2010 in about an hour, filling from the top.

I could never get the Mitey-Vac to pull enough vacuum to draw up the new oil. It appeared to me the fork seals didn't want to hold a vacuum.

[Norton Commando]

2012 is relatively easy. Loosen the Fork Caps, Drain the Fluid, put in 8 oz and adjust 125mm, replace Cap Seal, and be on your way.

Sure, if you say it real fast there's nothing to it. But I can assure you it's not that simple, hence the discussion about the Mytivac.

Jason

It is not that difficult either. I would change out the fork oil on my 2010 in about an hour, filling from the top.

I could never get the Mitey-Vac to pull enough vacuum to draw up the new oil. It appeared to me the fork seals didn't want to hold a vacuum.

Dicking around with the ignition switch, removing the switch cover, removing the fork caps, purchasing new quad seals, and blah, blah ,blah may be easy for some folks, but in my mind there should be an easier way.  And the Mytivac method, if it works, is the way to go.

You may be right in that there may not be sufficient vacuum to draw up the new fork oil; I will try it this spring and report back.

Best,

Jason 

[Coyote]

2012 is relatively easy. Loosen the Fork Caps, Drain the Fluid, put in 8 oz and adjust 125mm, replace Cap Seal, and be on your way.

Sure, if you say real fast there's nothing to it. But I can assure you it's not that simple, hence the discussion about the Mytivac.

Jason

Actually it really is that simple. I've done it a bunch of different ways. Drain at the bottom, fill at the top is quick and easy. 

[Hossamania]

On my 2012 Ultra I'm doing it the old fashioned way. I'm having my indie do it while he spoons on two new tires.

[seehogs]

In my experience you will need about 30" of vacuum to get all the fork oil
back in.  I use an air powered system now. very fast with little mess, and up on table
it is easier on my back.
The hand pump types never drew enough vacuum for mr.

[chaos901]

I suppose the vac would work OK but the drain bottom and fill top is really simple.  Just different strokes for different folks. 

[Ghost Rider]

Those that have used the drain out the bottom method on the 2010-2013 fairing models equipped with damper valves are you all feeling like you are getting most of the old dirty oil by just draining out the bottom? -  I have been told a significant amount will remain inside the tube. Or maybe just a small amount is left inside but enough for the engineers to call for dis-assembly of the fork. I'm thinking they wanted to ensure a complete drain.... they also extended the service interval to 50,000 miles about that time.

[rbabos]

Those that have used the drain out the bottom method on the 2010-2013 fairing models equipped with damper valves are you all feeling like you are getting most of the old dirty oil by just draining out the bottom? -  I have been told a significant amount will remain inside the tube. Or maybe just a small amount is left inside but enough for the engineers to call for dis-assembly of the fork. I'm thinking they wanted to ensure a complete drain.... they also extended the service interval to 50,000 miles about that time.

True, there will some left in the damper(s) but think of it as an engine oil change. It gets rid of most of the crud but not all, even if one cycles the forks to bleed most of the damper fluid out. It's amazing how much dusty substance sticks to the walls and springs even with a full drain. Disassembly is really the only way to get it back to spotless but in many ways overkill for the task. It's not like HD forks are a work of art anyway.
Ron

[Ghost Rider]

Those that have used the drain out the bottom method on the 2010-2013 fairing models equipped with damper valves are you all feeling like you are getting most of the old dirty oil by just draining out the bottom? -  I have been told a significant amount will remain inside the tube. Or maybe just a small amount is left inside but enough for the engineers to call for dis-assembly of the fork. I'm thinking they wanted to ensure a complete drain.... they also extended the service interval to 50,000 miles about that time.

True, there will some left in the damper(s) but think of it as an engine oil change. It gets rid of most of the crud but not all, even if one cycles the forks to bleed most of the damper fluid out. It's amazing how much dusty substance sticks to the walls and springs even with a full drain. Disassembly is really the only way to get it back to spotless but in many ways overkill for the task. It's not like HD forks are a work of art anyway.
Ron

Thanks for confirming. It's like an oil change, only catch might be there is no way to measure/calibrate the oil level but should be able to get close enough as long as I am sure there are equal amounts of oil in each side to begin with.

[smoserx1]

Thanks for confirming. It's like an oil change, only catch might be there is no way to measure/calibrate the oil level but should be able to get close enough as long as I am sure there are equal amounts of oil in each side to begin with.

Tell you what happened to me once.  I let my (now out of business) dealer do my first fork oil change on my FLHT and they totally forgot to refill the left leg.  I found it out 10000 miles later when I did the second change myself and got a normal amount out of the right and maybe a tablespoon out of the left.  To be honest I never noticed any handling quirks, pulling to one side etc.  I read about this once and the article I read implied the oil is there to control damping in the fork and not much else.  The weight of the oil is a big factor in the damping effect but not the level.  As long as there is enough oil to submerge the damper tube assembly and all those little holes are submerged, any extra above it  will have little to no effect effect unless it gets so high in the tube that it interferes with the fork moving up and down...in other words causing a hydrostatic lock.  I did fill the forks of a Honda all the way up when I was a kid just to see and it turned the front end into a rigid suspension.  Since most fork oil comes in 16 ounce containers I just install (with a vacuum pump) 8 ounces in each leg and call it a day.

[04 SE Deuce]

Fork oil level is a very common tuning element in telescopic forks.

The smaller the "air space" the more progressive the "air spring" becomes. 

Long before adding so much oil that hydraulic lock is reached you will experience a firmer spring rate deep into travel, before the fork bottoms...reason why higher oil level is used to increase bottoming resistance.

[IronMike113]

Fork oil level is a very common tuning element in telescopic forks.

The smaller the "air space" the more progressive the "air spring" becomes. 

Long before adding so much oil that hydraulic lock is reached you will experience a firmer spring rate deep into travel, before the fork bottoms...reason why higher oil level is used to increase bottoming resistance.

Could you also put a heavier oil Weight in to firm it up also,,,,,,, 

[Moparnut72]

Those that have used the drain out the bottom method on the 2010-2013 fairing models equipped with damper valves are you all feeling like you are getting most of the old dirty oil by just draining out the bottom? -  I have been told a significant amount will remain inside the tube. Or maybe just a small amount is left inside but enough for the engineers to call for dis-assembly of the fork. I'm thinking they wanted to ensure a complete drain.... they also extended the service interval to 50,000 miles about that time.

Probably had another boat payment coming up. Overkill in my opinion.
kk

[Moparnut72]

Fork oil level is a very common tuning element in telescopic forks.

The smaller the "air space" the more progressive the "air spring" becomes. 

Long before adding so much oil that hydraulic lock is reached you will experience a firmer spring rate deep into travel, before the fork bottoms...reason why higher oil level is used to increase bottoming resistance.

I don't know how the Harley forks are designed but I know that too much oil in older Japanese bikes can blow the seals out under compression. The best way to tune is with different weights of oil.
kk

[04 SE Deuce]

Fork oil level is a very common tuning element in telescopic forks.

The smaller the "air space" the more progressive the "air spring" becomes. 

Long before adding so much oil that hydraulic lock is reached you will experience a firmer spring rate deep into travel, before the fork bottoms...reason why higher oil level is used to increase bottoming resistance.

I don't know how the Harley forks are designed but I know that too much oil in older Japanese bikes can blow the seals out under compression. The best way to tune is with different weights of oil.
kk

Suspension tuning is multi-dimensional,  when done properly it allows for problem issues to be addressed without changing areas that are already good by much.

Changing oil viscosity effects damping, both compression and rebound, over the entire stroke. 

Increasing oil level makes the spring rate more progressive, firming the last 1/3 or so of travel without effecting ride quality at ride height noticeably.  You get increased bottoming resistance without effecting small bump ride quality.

Oil level adjustments have a noticeable effect on fork bottoming without getting near hydraulic lock levels.

[Maddo Snr]

In my opinion a proper service includes replacing bushings and seals and inspecting the tubes for wear. The proper level of fork oil is important too. I don't see how you get that accuracy with a vacuum pump.

Yep, this ^^^

Different folks have different standards I guess. By the time you get the vac pump out and set it up, I can have the forks completely out of a RK.

An oil change and a decent fork service are two different things. I can't see the point of fresh oil when the lube-packing in the oil/dust seals is gone and is sucking new crud into your fresh oil. Also, the oil height becomes a lucky dip.

It's only a one day job, down and up. I don't get why you wouldn't do the job thoroughly. 

Warning!: Ricks comment above refers to Cst viscosity NOT SAE oil 'weight'.

Many 5WT fork oils have higher Cst ratings than some 10WT fork oils.

Research your chosen oils' Cst rating...