Question for the Welders

[djl]

A couple of years back I posted some general questions for the welders on the forum since I was considering taking it up.  Since then I have become reasonably confident with my MIG skills; still practicing as though prepping for 1G and 2G test but have no plans for certification. Did some stick during course work but I have focused on MIG since completing a very basic 24 hours of instruction; eight three hour classes where we were introduced to stick, MIG, TIG and cutting with torch and plasma cutter.

I am now taking up TIG; had my first class last Saturday and the instructor has started me out with oxy-acetylene welding as a precusor to getting into TIG.  I have been using a borrowed Miller 140 MIG only welder and now will need to purchase a multi purpose welder, MIG/TIG/Arc although I don't plan to do much stick welding. So, I am looking for recommendations for a machine suitable for a DIY guy that won't be building trailers, motorcycle frames, etc., so nothing OTT, just a basic setup.

TIA

[Harpo]

Generally speaking, especially for us "hobby" welders, you'll need 2 machines - a TIG welder will do TIG or stick, and a separate MIG machine.  There are some all purpose machines out there but they're pretty high end (expensive).  A torch setup for cutting, heating, brazing, etc. is also nice.  Then there's a plasma cutter, and on, and on.  Have fun.

[a_disalvo]

Miller makes a nice 110V TIG unit for about a grand. Frank

[Buglet]

    ESAB W1003141 110 V  MIG, TIG, STICK $640.00

[cHarley]

Get a small Miller TIG and Stick machine that runs on 220 volt and 110 volt. Wire it up for 220 volt. If you get the small machine in case it will come with the basic TIG rig and gauge with tungsten kit to get started. Just have to get argon bottle.

[joelp34252]

I would get a machine that will output AC as well as DC so you can weld aluminum as well as steel.

[akjeff]

I wound up buying two welders, a Lincoln Power MIG 210, and a Squarewave TIG 200. Really happy with both of them. That being said, Miller has just come out with this...

https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/multiprocess/multimatic-220-ac-dc-multiprocess-welder-m30190?promo=topbanner

Had it hit the market in time, that's the route I would have taken. Covers all the bases in one machine. Though it may pay to watch the reviews and see if it has any first model year issues.

Jeff

[FSG]

    ESAB W1003141 110 V  MIG, TIG, STICK $640.00

I had an ESAB Caddy 140, was a good unit but these days is cactus   

I do like that ESAB Fabricator 141i - 110 Volt Mig/Tig/Stick Machine Part# W1003141 and you cant complain about the price

[Heatnbeat]

If you have the room and don't need the latest and greatest there are some nice older machines out there for cheap $. My Miller 330 ABP cost me $300 complete and it works just fine. There was a lot of fine work done with those machines.

[phillyfan]

I welded for 20+ years. Started as a union diver then as a union pipe welder. Nuc plants, chip plants and everything else but aluminum. The smoothest TIG machine I ever used was a Linde. Great for a shop, I wouldn't put one in the field though.
Have to look at what most of your welding will be on. That will determine the size, duty cycle of the machine you need. Obviously you don't need a 8 bank machine, but one of those little pocket welders might be to small.
Lincoln, Miller or a Linde, all good machines.

[IronMike113]

So.......... Multi-Process type welder the way to go or........... Mig type,,,,,, And Tig type,,,,,,,,, separate,  inquiring minds want to know,,,,,,,, 

[akjeff]

A lot of it depends on what you want to do with the TIG function of the multi-process machine? Most of the home/hobby class machines give you a TIG/Stick function along with the primary MIG function of the machine. But, the TIG is DC and scratch start. If that's all you need, then that's fine. If you want to TIG aluminum, and want a HF start, then you'll likely need two machines. Now Miller has a true all in one package, at about the cost of two comparable machines that handle the same tasks. Lots of choices, do your homework!

Jeff

[BrianG]

Jeff,
Regarding the Miller Multimatic® 220, what is the current capacity requirement for 120v operation?  It looks like about 25A.  Could that be true?

[akjeff]

It looks that way, which is odd; since the majority of household 120V circuits in the US, are fed from 20A breakers max. ??

Jeff

[PoorUB]

I have a MIG that will run on 120 or 240 volt. It draws 25 amps at full load. Keep in mind if you run lower settings it will draw less amps. I had trouble  with it popping  breakers and found a breaker for motor starting  loads,  high magnetic  I think. It works better than the cheap breakers that are in my panel. I put that breaker in for the circuit by my welding bench. If I have a bunch of welding to do I have one 120 outlet with a 30 amp breaker right at my breaker panel.

[1workinman]

A couple of years back I posted some general questions for the welders on the forum since I was considering taking it up.  Since then I have become reasonably confident with my MIG skills; still practicing as though prepping for 1G and 2G test but have no plans for certification. Did some stick during course work but I have focused on MIG since completing a very basic 24 hours of instruction; eight three hour classes where we were introduced to stick, MIG, TIG and cutting with torch and plasma cutter.

I am now taking up TIG; had my first class last Saturday and the instructor has started me out with oxy-acetylene welding as a precusor to getting into TIG.  I have been using a borrowed Miller 140 MIG only welder and now will need to purchase a multi purpose welder, MIG/TIG/Arc although I don't plan to do much stick welding. So, I am looking for recommendations for a machine suitable for a DIY guy that won't be building trailers, motorcycle frames, etc., so nothing OTT, just a basic setup.

TIA

I guess it depends on what you want in a welder . I have a 250 d and a 300 electric both Lincoln . I thought I buy a wire machine as I really like to use them on certain projects. I been welding a long time . I not a gun just good enough to pass the test or use to lol at work . 6g test There are some I think pretty good u tube videos on welding . One is I think is based in Huston area. I recommend watching those as it does not cost any think and those guys are really good at welding . Learn how to walk the cup on Tig

[djl]

Thanks to all, lots of good information; you guys don't make it any easier.

[1workinman]

Thanks to all, lots of good information; you guys don't make it any easier.

Depends on what your running 6010 or 7018 which is what I use to run a lot of , I remember a long time ago I was told to make sure to tie in the sides and the middle would take care of it self . There is all kinds of way to run the rod but one thing I really like is a smooth ark . Damn they had these little miller welders at work and I was not fond of running them , now days there pretty decent machines. I like to run my 250 d Lincoln as it pretty smooth ark lol none . Years ago I had to build some cooling tower screens out of some stainless steel and that is where the wire machines really shined . Worked good . I remember some one telling me that wire would cold lap. Hell I did not have any problems with that lol

[phillyfan]

A couple of years back I posted some general questions for the welders on the forum since I was considering taking it up.  Since then I have become reasonably confident with my MIG skills; still practicing as though prepping for 1G and 2G test but have no plans for certification. Did some stick during course work but I have focused on MIG since completing a very basic 24 hours of instruction; eight three hour classes where we were introduced to stick, MIG, TIG and cutting with torch and plasma cutter.

I am now taking up TIG; had my first class last Saturday and the instructor has started me out with oxy-acetylene welding as a precusor to getting into TIG.  I have been using a borrowed Miller 140 MIG only welder and now will need to purchase a multi purpose welder, MIG/TIG/Arc although I don't plan to do much stick welding. So, I am looking for recommendations for a machine suitable for a DIY guy that won't be building trailers, motorcycle frames, etc., so nothing OTT, just a basic setup.

TIA

I guess it depends on what you want in a welder . I have a 250 d and a 300 electric both Lincoln . I thought I buy a wire machine as I really like to use them on certain projects. I been welding a long time . I not a gun just good enough to pass the test or use to lol at work . 6g test There are some I think pretty good u tube videos on welding . One is I think is based in Huston area. I recommend watching those as it does not cost any think and those guys are really good at welding . Learn how to walk the cup on Tig

Easy way to learn how to walk it is with a glass cup. Lay the cup on its side and hold it still. walk the cup up from the bottom. I always used the biggest cup I could depending on what I was doing. Welded 1in SS tubing using a huge cup

[phillyfan]

Thanks to all, lots of good information; you guys don't make it any easier.

Depends on what your running 6010 or 7018 which is what I use to run a lot of , I remember a long time ago I was told to make sure to tie in the sides and the middle would take care of it self . There is all kinds of way to run the rod but one thing I really like is a smooth ark . Damn they had these little miller welders at work and I was not fond of running them , now days there pretty decent machines. I like to run my 250 d Lincoln as it pretty smooth ark lol none . Years ago I had to build some cooling tower screens out of some stainless steel and that is where the wire machines really shined . Worked good . I remember some one telling me that wire would cold lap. Hell I did not have any problems with that lol

6010 and 7018 "Usually" go together. Only time I experienced it did not was in the nuclear plants. If they catch you with a 6010 you are going to the house.
Not worrying about the middle is not a good practice. Have to worry about it all if you want to pass X-ray and bend test.
I always had my fitters setup a big gap, personal preference. Tig welding I would stick the filler rod in from the inside of the pipe and feed it that way all the way up. There was no doubt that the pass was good when I finished using this technique.
Doing 9% chrome this way wasn't fun because of the heat coming off the wraps but 9% sucks anyway you do it. Ill take stainless all day everyday.

[1workinman]

Thanks to all, lots of good information; you guys don't make it any easier.

Depends on what your running 6010 or 7018 which is what I use to run a lot of , I remember a long time ago I was told to make sure to tie in the sides and the middle would take care of it self . There is all kinds of way to run the rod but one thing I really like is a smooth ark . Damn they had these little miller welders at work and I was not fond of running them , now days there pretty decent machines. I like to run my 250 d Lincoln as it pretty smooth ark lol none . Years ago I had to build some cooling tower screens out of some stainless steel and that is where the wire machines really shined . Worked good . I remember some one telling me that wire would cold lap. Hell I did not have any problems with that lol

6010 and 7018 "Usually" go together. Only time I experienced it did not was in the nuclear plants. If they catch you with a 6010 you are going to the house.
Not worrying about the middle is not a good practice. Have to worry about it all if you want to pass X-ray and bend test.
I always had my fitters setup a big gap, personal preference. Tig welding I would stick the filler rod in from the inside of the pipe and feed it that way all the way up. There was no doubt that the pass was good when I finished using this technique.
Doing 9% chrome this way wasn't fun because of the heat coming off the wraps but 9% sucks anyway you do it. Ill take stainless all day everyday.

Yea I can do it either way and have for a long time 30 years lol I work for a power generation plant and we don't use 6010 root either but it would not hurt to know how lol   .  And yea the gap is damn important .  There are some places that the 6010 is use full but not in boiler repair now  lol  at least for the company I work for

[TXHogrider]

I use an ancient old Hobart portable driven by a 2 cylinder TJD Wisconson around the farm.  It'll burn 6010 all day on dirty old drill stem when I am building pipe fences, but every thing else is 7018.  Gas shielded arc doesn't always work well in the field because we get too much wind, so I love my stick welder.

[1workinman]

I use an ancient old Hobart portable driven by a 2 cylinder TJD Wisconson around the farm.  It'll burn 6010 all day on dirty old drill stem when I am building pipe fences, but every thing else is 7018.  Gas shielded arc doesn't always work well in the field because we get too much wind, so I love my stick welder.

[Heatnbeat]

I had an old Lincoln like your Hobart when I first started out. Crank start and sometimes it could be a bitch to start. So I always showed up on the job with it running. It made me enough money to buy a new Miller though

[1workinman]

I had an old Lincoln like your Hobart when I first started out. Crank start and sometimes it could be a bitch to start. So I always showed up on the job with it running. It made me enough money to buy a new Miller though

Miller portable welders have came a long way . I remember at work many years ago they bought a couple of diesel Lincoln machines, they were not the red face pipe liner machines which I would have got , and some of those miller gas machines. Hell I did not care to use them the ark was not smooth . I could weld with them but damn , later on the finally one by one way replaced for various reason. Not the Lincolns , and the bought newer miller machines , hell of an improvement , all around nice machines .