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The "KLUNK"

Started by Panzer, April 26, 2018, 06:48:14 PM

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Hossamania

Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on May 04, 2018, 07:56:52 PM
Quote from: Panzer on May 04, 2018, 07:11:44 PM
Ha, Lubeguard, expensive, yes?  :emoGroan:

https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-61910-Friction-Modified-Supplement/dp/B0002KKTTU Worth every penny :)

If you change your primary fluid once a year, that is two and a half years worth. Less than $5 a year.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

FSG


Rockout Rocker Products

The images FSG posted show the purpose of the Lubeguard. When I was researching ways to get rid of the KLUNK, I read a lot of car forums about ATF. They add the Lubeguard to the Mobil 1 because without it it shifts TOO hard and is "grabby". It's the LG that helps separate the plates in the HD clutch & reduce drag.

On a 900 pound bagger at 109/119 I have zero slip.  :up:
www.rockout.biz Stop the top end TAPPING!!

hogpipes1

Checking around in my stash of good stuff i  have a bottle of Amsoil   slip lock  differential additive.. used for my trk posy .( it worked) takes care of chatter, sticky plates, it's a friction modifier. couple oz. left thinking  it would  go good in the xl for the klunk. see any neg- on using this as my lube -guard.?

Rockout Rocker Products

I can only recommend what I've tried :)
www.rockout.biz Stop the top end TAPPING!!

Panzer

So, I can add "Lubeguard" to the Mobil 1 that's in the chain case now?
And add "Lubeguard" to the Mobil 1 that I have in the crankcase?
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

moose

you have my permission
Moose aka Glenn-

Rockout Rocker Products

Quote from: Panzer on May 13, 2018, 03:35:29 PM
So, I can add "Lubeguard" to the Mobil 1 that's in the chain case now?
And add "Lubeguard" to the Mobil 1 that I have in the crankcase?

Yes to the chaincase ONLY IF THE MOBIL 1 IN THERE IS ATF, no to the crankcase.... it's not for engine oils.

www.rockout.biz Stop the top end TAPPING!!

Panzer

Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

daniele_1983

Ok, there are lots of systems to charge batteries and start a dead motor, but I prefer to discuss about the kicker.
Does anyone know the OEM number of the cap at the end of the fifth gear I have in photos?? Is this rubber or metal? Can it be removed to main shaft ispection?

Panzer

Wrong place daniele_1983
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

Backyard Mech

The Clunk is normal as well as intentionally made by Harley Davidson for rider experience. Here is some info that might help with overly loud kluncking though. There is room in the transmission dogs for it to swing before connecting and this is the kluck sound you hear. If your spring plate in the clutch basket is worn it will not keep a certain drag on the basket that keeps the dogs connected and they separate. when the dogs come back into contact it makes that awesome Kluncking sound. Using lighter oil might help some but the best thing to do is take that dreaded spring plate out of your clutch basket and get the extra clutch kit installed and then you will have a great shifting and kluncking Harley Davidson with awesome rider experience as well as peace of mind knowing you won,t be buying tons of primary parts that get destroyed by the spring plate.

hogpipes1

I suppose i could  up grade my clutch   which has been trouble free with over 30 k miles on it.. What's all in the kit and is it  a dealer item only.? @ $$?

Backyard Mech

It comes with 2 extra plates and one extra clutch and replaces the spring plate. The Barnett extra clutch kit is pretty popular and can be bought on ebay. If your clutches are that good you can just buy the 2 plates (I have 2) and a single clutch. Just add them and remove the spring plate. I made a tool out of 3 " PVC to compress and remove the clip that holds the basket together. Just get a cap for the 3 " pipe drill a hole for the bolt nut and washers. They do sell a tool which you can actually do the job without removing the basket chain and sprocket.

hogpipes1

Quote from: Backyard Mech on May 27, 2018, 07:02:44 AM
It comes with 2 extra plates and one extra clutch and replaces the spring plate. The Barnett extra clutch kit is pretty popular and can be bought on ebay. If your clutches are that good you can just buy the 2 plates (I have 2) and a single clutch. Just add them and remove the spring plate. I made a tool out of 3 " PVC to compress and remove the clip that holds the basket together. Just get a cap for the 3 " pipe drill a hole for the bolt nut and washers. They do sell a tool which you can actually do the job without removing the basket chain and sprocket.

Thanks i will check into it.The tool i have . Does the clutch feel (pull) any diff?  Bad left hand  and more tension is not a good thing. Even with the AMP box  under the lever  and suppose to reduce the effort , i don't need another hand ,wrist joint surgery.

Xyzzy

Quote from: hogpipes1 on May 27, 2018, 07:24:10 AMDoes the clutch feel (pull) any diff?

No difference. You need a Muller Power Clutch if you want a light pull.

Backyard Mech

That would be a muller power ramp I believe. Yes that would help but not cheap.

hogpipes1

Mine works OK as is . better than stock pull.  pulling the spring plate out and replace with 2 fiber & 1 steel should do OK.  Muller  is the best  from  the feed back of users, but they won't suck me in on a over priced anything.

Xyzzy

IMO, the Muller is the best $150 I ever spent on my bike.

Backyard Mech

Quote from: hogpipes1 on May 28, 2018, 10:44:44 AM
Mine works OK as is . better than stock pull.  pulling the spring plate out and replace with 2 fiber & 1 steel should do OK.  Muller  is the best  from  the feed back of users, but they won't suck me in on a over priced anything.
2 steel 1 fiber not visa versa.

J.Kinkade

if I remove the spring plate.

will an extra stock friction & steel fit in?

Backyard Mech

May 29, 2018, 06:18:01 PM #46 Last Edit: May 29, 2018, 06:24:26 PM by Backyard Mech
yes you need 2 steel plates and 1 friction disc in between them. They will be exactly the same thickness as the spring plate. Be sure the first disc from the inside if you remove them all is friction disc then a metal plate then a friction disc then a metal plate and end up with a friction disc before putting on the pressure plate. Can't be sure but I think the total was 9 all together. If you only remove up to the spring plate then start with a metal plate then a disc etc etc.

hogpipes1

Quote from: Backyard Mech on May 29, 2018, 06:31:19 AM
Quote from: hogpipes1 on May 28, 2018, 10:44:44 AM
Mine works OK as is . better than stock pull.  pulling the spring plate out and replace with 2 fiber & 1 steel should do OK.  Muller  is the best  from  the feed back of users, but they won't suck me in on a over priced anything.
2 steel 1 fiber not visa versa.

Not Visa for sure. i never buy anything til after 2  cups of coffee in am .

J.Kinkade

Quote from: Backyard Mech on May 29, 2018, 06:18:01 PM
yes you need 2 steel plates and 1 friction disc in between them. They will be exactly the same thickness as the spring plate. Be sure the first disc from the inside if you remove them all is friction disc then a metal plate then a friction disc then a metal plate and end up with a friction disc before putting on the pressure plate. Can't be sure but I think the total was 9 all together. If you only remove up to the spring plate then start with a metal plate then a disc etc etc.

thank you, I like the stock clutch plates so what\nt to just add one when remove spring plate, as upgrading to bit more power. just want to see if this handles it.

Xyzzy

There is no judder spring in a Sportster so expect a little clutch squeal when you remove the spring plate. Mine only squeals when it is cold. You should get an additional 11% torque capacity with the extra plate.