REPRINT FROM OLD HTT: 1999 FXR2 CLUTCH HELP PLEASE

[ClassicRider2002]

DISCLAIMER: THIS IS A REPRINT TOPIC FROM "OLD" HTT

I have saved many great topical discussions as "links" over the years and would hate to see these lost, so I am reprinting this TOPIC here, which may "perhaps" help some.

TOPIC:  1999 FXR2 CLUTCH HELP PLEASE  06-09-05
   

From: ClassicRider2002  (Original Message) Sent: 6/9/2005 7:39 AM   Message 1 of 5 in Discussion
Ok...going into the inner primary today.....replacing  2 oil seals, the jackshaft oil seal, and the inner primary mainshaft oil seal, along with the larger O~Ring on the back side of the inner primary cover....so anyway to be able to replace these oil seals and o~ring OFF comes the compensating sprocket and clutch "basket".

The 1999 FXR2 manual does not say anything really about how to adjust the clutch.....I am not sure why but it doesn't......but I did some checking and alot of the same internal parts are on my 2002 road king classic however I am of course not sure when it comes to the actual "shafts" between the two different models........ so is there enough similarity to actually follow the service manual's recommendations of "a twincam" such as is stated in the RKC? ? ? ? ? ?

I just need some detailed help about what to do when I get to this point later today.....

I realize I am only taking it off of the "spline" but is there really going to be any modifications/adjustments that will need to be done right away.....? ? ? ? ?

The bike has 5,800 miles on it....and currently seems to be working correctly with regards to the clutch......

Regards,

"Classic"

[ClassicRider2002]

From: JohnS_Rosamond_CA Sent: 6/9/2005 8:08 AM   Message 2 of 5 in Discussion
I'm not quite following your question, but here goes...  When you take the clutch basket off, you'll have to loosen up the central adjuster stud and then remove the C-clip and the metal plate that's in the centre of the basket (where you would normally adjust the clutch basket).  Under there is the nut that will allow you to remove the basket as a whole assembly.  When you put the clutch basket back on, re-torque the clutch hub nut and re-install the central adjuster stud and plate.  You would then re-adjust the clutch just like a normal service.  Make sure that the cable adjuster is backed off all the way (so that there's a lot of cable showing at the lever), undo the central adjuster all the way (in the basket).  Now, tighten the central adjuster stud (clockwise) until you feel resistance - not until it's tight and wont turn - then back off about 3/4 of a turn.  Tighten the adjuster lock nut on the basket.  Now readjust the clutch cable.  I believe that this is still the procedure that you would find for the '02 Road King that you mentioned.
John S,


From: ClassicRider2002 Sent: 6/9/2005 9:48 AM   Message 3 of 5 in Discussion
Opps my point was a bit lost....

I am doing this work on a 1999 FXR2 "EVO" which has alot of the same parts in the clutch area as my 2002 Road King Classic....so...since the 1999 FXR2 Service Manual has very very little about Clutch Adjustment I went to my 2002 Road King Classic's Service Manual and found some information out.......So my questions still stand from above.....

Regards

"Classic"


From: JAMESP1232 Sent: 6/9/2005 10:23 AM   Message 4 of 5 in Discussion
Classic, 98 and 99 Evo's have the same, larger clutch assy. that Twin Cams have. I assume that your FXR has  the same clutch assy as all other 98 and 99 evos as well as the updated primary cover with the"O" ring groove around the derby cover hole...So yes, your 02 RK manual has all the info you need to deal with your clutch as well as the instructions for re-adjusting it after it is re-installed. These directions are exactly as JohnS describes in his post....Good luck .....JAMESP


From: ClassicRider2002 Sent: 6/9/2005 2:50 PM  Message 5 of 5 in Discussion  
Yes you are right I have the derby cover with the larger O~Ring.....in fact my Outer Primary Cover is the exact one that is on my FLHRCI RKC 2002 except for the Inspection plate that has a hole in it for my shifter where it does not on the RKC because it is in front of the primary....  Excellent then at least I have something to work with here....!!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"

[ClassicRider2002]

Anything added beyond this point is new information.

Regards,

"Classic"

[ClassicRider2002]

here are some other instructions which I found helpful in addressing how one is to "adjust one"s clutch properly" The Factory Service Manual on this issue can leave you sratching your head, so these instructions @ least for me helped to clarify the procedure a bit more:

If possible, try the following adjustment procedure first. The procedure was recommended by Hippo in previous threads:

1. Loosen the clutch CABLE jam nut and using the adjuster, remove ALL slack (zero clearance between the clutch cable ferrule and the clutch lever bracket) in the cable.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack PUSHROD adjuster screw.

The bottom line is that during #1 and #2 what you do is fully collapse the cable adjuster on the cable sleeve while attempting to pull the cable sleeve away from the perch at the lever.

3. Pull in the clutch lever, it should just touch or be close to touching the handle bars. If it does not touch the bars, back out the PUSHROD adjuster screw at the clutch pack while keeping a slight pressure on the clutch lever until it just touches the bars.
4. When the clutch lever just touches the handle bar, turn IN the PUSHROD adjuster screw while keeping a slight pressure on the clutch lever. When you turn IN the PUSHROD adjuster screw, it will start to pull the lever OFF the handle bars. Back the PUSHROD adjuster screw OUT until the lever returns to just touching the handle bars. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the PUSHROD adjuster screw out 1/2 to 1 turn and torque the lock nut to 6-10 ft-lbs (96 in-lbs).
5. Using the CABLE adjuster, adjust the clutch cable to 1/16-1/8 inch gap between the clutch cable ferrule and the clutch lever bracket and secure it with the jam nut.

Sometimes when new cables are used or if the mechanism is worn, it is possible to push the "hook" the end of the cable engages to over center in the housing. This sometimes may correct itself with above, and sometimes this can be checked/corrected thru the gearbox oil fill hole. It may also be possible, if the center position of the ball and ramp was lost that above procedure may have to be done more then once. Picture in your mind that you are playing the two adjustments against each other in order to perfectly center the ball and ramp mechanism so as to achieve the max disengagement travel while still having correct free play at one and the other.

If the clutch still does not function properly, verify the following: cable lubed, routed, connected and ball and ramp assembled properly.

I might also add, that after you think you may have successfully adjusted your clutch cable with the bike still on a bike stand, that you turn the ignition key to on without "starting" the ignition, (lights turned on and instrument panel lit up) and attempt to see that you have your "N" Neutral Light lit up, if your instrument panel is showing NO "N" neutral light lit up.....then I would suggest that you turn the key off....and step back and again go through the steps above to "readjust" the "clutch mechanism".  Once you have "readjusted" the "clutch mechanism" then turn the key back on and confirm that the "N" neutral light is funtioning properly you will need to follow the above steps until at which point you will have reached "success"....ie: the "N" Neutral Light being properly lit.

After the "neutral" "N" light appears on your instrument panel / dash, then put fluids in for both the primary and the transmission to their proper levels.

NEXT......after you have confirmed that the "N" Neutral Light is properly being lit, and after you have poured in the proper amount of fluid in your Primary and you have properly checked the Transmission Fluid,.....while keeping the bike on the lift with the rear tire free from the ground......carefully start the bike, and run through all of the gears along with putting it in "neutral" to make sure while the bike is on the stand that you have no "drag" while the clutch is engaged through with each gear....essentially, put it into 1st gear while engaging the clutch lever, then releasing the clutch lever, give the bike a bit of the throttle and watch the rear wheel move signifying it is indeed in gear, then engage the clutch, take your foot and stop the motion of the rear wheel and while the clutch is still engaged make sure that once you stopped the rear tire that it doesn't start moving again.....then release the clutch again resulting in the rear wheel moving once again and then move to 2nd gear etc following the same procedure through 5th gear and then from 5th gear back down to 1st gear, then back to "neutral" to make sure the bike engages  to "neutral" smoothly......You should be able to accomplish all of this in about 90 seconds of running the bike on the lift....at this piont you should feel "comfortable" that the bike is ready for a "test" run.....

I would suggest doing this while the bike is on a lift to make sure there is no "drag" occuring on your clutch, thus confirming that everything is working properly. Once this is confirmed then you are prepared to take it for your first "test" ride.

Regards,

"Classic"

[Deye76]

Anyone know if a hydraulic clutch actuator from a 2004 TC will work on a 1992 FXR?