REPRINT FROM OLD HTT: 39mm FORK CAP REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

[ClassicRider2002]

DISCLAIMER: THIS IS A REPRINT TOPIC FROM "OLD" HTT

I have saved many great topical discussions as "links" over the years and would hate to see these lost, so I am reprinting this TOPIC here, which may "perhaps" help some.

TOPIC:  39mm FORK CAP REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS  05-09-08
   

From: JC_FXRS92  (Original Message) Sent: 5/9/2008 6:55 PM   Message 1 of 9 in Discussion
I've got a 92 FXRS, narrow glide front end, 39mm fork tubes...I've got a 1 3/8 in socket here and I can't seem to crack them. Is there a trick I'm missing?..or should I go with more force. I don't really want to damage them but they've got to come off. Any suggestions?  Jeff

[ClassicRider2002]

From: ClassicRider2002 Sent: 5/10/2008 3:25 AM   Message 2 of 9 in Discussion
Make sure you are using a 6 point socket to grab it well.  Not sure if you can spray some WD-40 at the cap location where it buts the fork...These particular caps are holding back a spring and whatever preload may exist in there.....so there is tension....I would make sure you are going counterclockwise with your rachet, perhaps using a bigger rachet or a breaker bar of sorts....and keep turning...These fork caps are only have torque specs of 50 - 55 ft-lbs., depending upon the last time you have been in the forks perhaps they could have a bit of rust holding them tighter.

But the short answer there are no tricks.....other than what I mentioned above if you consider any of them "tricks"

I am basing everything I mentioned above also on the fact that I have a 99 FXR2 with 39 mm forks and recently changed my fork oil in the past 3 weeks.

Regards,

"Classic"


From: JohnS_Rosamond_CA Sent: 5/10/2008 11:31 AM   Message 3 of 9 in Discussion
I don't have a fork cap socket either and I too use a large wrench (I usually put masking tape on the upper triple clamp because I use a wrench).  I turn the handlebar to full lock and then use the wrench to get the cap off.  It takes a bit to break them loose, but if they're as tight as you say, then you might want to take the tubes off the bike and have a Indy remove the caps.


From: JC_FXRS92 Sent: 5/10/2008 1:53 PM   Message 4 of 9 in Discussion
Thank you very much gentlemen...It seemed straight forward to me, but the caps seemed very tight. I went with the "bigger wrench" technique...they came off. Thanks for the re-assurance.  Cheers, Jeff


From: JC_FXRS92 Sent: 5/10/2008 2:04 PM   Message 5 of 9 in Discussion
Perhaps a little more info...I bought the bike in 2000, before that the previous owner didn't use the bike much. I suspect that they've never been off...until now. Thanks again I've picked up a great deal of great info on this site, best on the Web IMO.


From: Fatboy_SirGarfield Sent: 5/10/2008 2:20 PM   Message 6 of 9 in Discussion
(I usually put masking tape on the upper triple clamp because I use a wrench)

I use the Glad Plastic Sandwich bags, they work a treat.


From: blacksunnies Sent: 5/10/2008 4:18 PM   Message 7 of 9 in Discussion
And if you suspect a threaded bolt of being frozen through dissimilar metal electrolysis or corrosion then usually a couple of sharp raps on the bolt head with a hammer (use a soft face hammer for cosmetic parts) will break the seize and allow the bolt to be removed without galling or ripping aluminum threads out.

side note: Stainless steel in aluminum: My local staino bolt merchant is a legend. He told me not to use 316 marine grade stainless bolts in alloy parts on my harley, causes a nasty electrolysis reaction in the presence of water.
He recommends 304 food grade as the best to use. He's right. 2 years I've had 304 in my alloy parts and no side effects. Also 304 polishes up awesome... impossible to distinguish from chrome I kid you not.


From: JC_FXRS92 Sent: 5/10/2008 11:57 PM   Message 8 of 9 in Discussion
Good point, when I got the caps off there was a good amount of powder on them. Al I suspect, as you said, dis-similar metals...common on on outboard motors that I've worked on...my vehicles too, when in the salt used in this country (Can).
Took the bike out today...first time for the season, worked beatuifully!!  Thanks again  for the replies. Much appreciated.


From: olstoney2 [Buddy WMC ]Sent: 5/11/2008 5:00 AM   Message 9 of 9 in Discussion
As a follow up on stainless bolts into aluminum. I have used Diamonds 304 socket head cap kits and the harder Race proof 160,000 psi kits on my bike exclusively. When an stainless bolt goes into aluminim on my bike, a samll amount of anti-seize is used unless containdicated.

This prevents any galling of the parts due to the contact of the dissimmilar metals. This does require slightly more mainenance to make sure that the torque settings are maintained on the covers instead of using locktight and forgetting about it. It is worth the hour it takes every few weeks to do this. I then have rust free washers, bolts and nuts a god send here in Florida with the salt air an humidity. I have purchased 304 stock from Diamond to make some parts such as rear wheel flat washers and front rubber mount washers that they do not offer. Somewhat anal yes, does the bike look pretty, you had better believe it!

[ClassicRider2002]

While I realize this "THREAD" goes a ways back I feel the content warrants it being brought over here to the New HTT Site, hopefully it is helpful to others.

Anything added beyond this point is new information.

Regards,

"Classic"