REPRINT FROM OLD HTT: ALPHASAMUEL AVIATION GASKET CEMENT

[ClassicRider2002]

-

DISCLAIMER: THIS IS A REPRINT TOPIC FROM "OLD" HTT

I have saved many great topical discussions as "links" over the years and would hate to see these lost, so I am reprinting this TOPIC here, which may "perhaps" help some.

TOPIC: ALPHASAMUEL AVIATION GASKET CEMENT 05-16-01

From: marty  (Original Message) Sent: 5/16/2001 10:36 AM   Message 1 of 1 in Discussion
Ever notice that when they start leaking AGAIN that it's in the same place?

Just for the hell of it I put mine on a layth, and guess what.The bottom of the jugs WERE NOT FLAT! Base gaskets compress to 5thou.( acording to the big guys)  The left rear corner of my rear jug was 7thou.different than the 3 other corners.  The front jug was concave on the left side between the front and rear corner by 5thou. I just had to share this.I really hope that this helps everyone with this problem.If mine were like this,I'm sure that I'm not the only one. ride safe! 

[ClassicRider2002]

-

From: AlphaSamuel Sent: 5/16/2001 11:14 AM   Message 2 of 1 in Discussion
That's what happens when you have castings made overseas by unskilled workers, then ground down by robots.  The Factory has tried just about everything from different gaskets, to 0 rings and still they leak.  I know people who have invested in expensive tools to "square" off the bases as you have done and the damned things still leaked.  I finally gave up in disgust, went back to the basics of assembly of aircooled engines with aluminum jugs w/steel liners, started using avaition gasket cement on all my gaskets and, viola!  No more leaks.  Sure a little squeezes out, but my trusted finger tip and a rag and mineral spirits clean it right off.  It also can be used on bolts where installed into aluminum housings to prevent annealing of dsisemiliar metals.   They will never sieze, nor gall your aluminum threads.  Worked for me.  Samuel 
   

From: Skin†  (Original Message) Sent: 2/25/2002 10:15 AM   Message 1 of 3 in Discussion
Samuel,
I know you've been asked this 100's of times so be patient with me. Is there more than one kind of aviation gasket cement? We have an Aviation supplier up here and if I go there and ask for this cement will he know what to give me?  If there is more than one kind, what is it you use? I'm fixin' to do base gaskets on my '94 Ultra and want to use your method. THANKS, THANKS, and more THANKS, Skin


From: wizkid   Sent: 2/25/2002 2:08 PM   Message 2 of 3 in Discussion
Aviation gasket cement is made by "Permatex" (also the makers of "Loctite"), is very universal and resistant to steam, alkalines, fuel etc. Designed primarily for close tolerance metal to metal sealing, (aluminum case halves, frost plugs, all metal head and intake gaskets, pourous cooling system surfaces, pipe thread fittings, head bolts threads that penetrate the water jackets ,etc.)  it is very durable and non-hardening. The most important thing to remember is very thin coat is all that is needed to be effective. Most people use too much and it will make a mess which often gives it a bad rap. On paper gaskets if used it will help to prevent "wicking". Laquer thinner works well for clean-up. Any quality auto parts store would carry it.  And as Samuel has said here, it will work well to prevent that pesky base gasket leak. Wiz


From: AlphaSamuel Sent: 2/25/2002 3:16 PM   Message 3 of 3 in Discussion
Just go to any good auto parts store and it will be on the shelf.  It is made by Permatex and the part # is 80017. It may also be called/named Aviation Form A Gasket.  For clean up I just use a dab of paint thinner on a rag before it sets up.  Samuel
   

From: RWJ  (Original Message) Sent: 4/10/2002 12:38 PM   Message 1 of 7 in Discussion
What would you guys use on an outer primary gasket if you wanted to use a sealant? I usually install dry, but am having trouble with one weeping tothe point of where it drips. Samuel, I know you use aviation cement but does this come off easy.
Russ
   

From: kepnut Sent: 4/10/2002 1:40 PM   Message 2 of 7 in Discussion
NOT and THING if you have to use something primary cover must be warped
   

From: AlphaSamuel Sent: 4/10/2002 4:57 PM   Message 3 of 7 in Discussion
I have found that the aviation gasket cement will ooze slightly when tightening the retainers.  This cleans up nicely with a rag wet with paint thinner.  Even when dried it comes of without too much difficulty with acetone.  As for aluminum warping.  Most aluminum covers will warp when subjected to heat.  Primaries, derby covers, cases, all can warp.  You have a choice, use a sealant or sand down the warpage until it is even, or replace.  I have found that it is too easy to get too much ATV on a gasket and there's a chance some of it will get into the clutch.  So I use what I know will not gum up anything, and can be applied thinly with ease. Samuel


From: Unholy"dealer" Sent: 4/10/2002 5:54 PM   Message 4 of 7 in Discussion
I have used HYLOMAR with good results. Be sure to follow the correct torque sequence and values.


From: HIPPO_ Sent: 4/10/2002 11:38 PM   Message 5 of 7 in Discussion
Loctite 598 Ultra Black. Use very little. It is a GM spec high temperature silicone sealant. You can get it at any GM dealer if the parts store does not have it.

   
From: flathead41 Sent: 4/12/2002 5:59 PM   Message 6 of 7 in Discussion
I've always used HYLOMAR with good results. Put a thin coat on the primary side.


From: Mr.GoFast Sent: 4/12/2002 7:27 PM   Message 7 of 7 in Discussion
This is why Harleys has a BAD REP because we put a band-aid on the problem instead of fixing it right. When you have a rubber gasket it was ment to be used without sealant we pay how much for a Harley and cant fix it right. Most aluminum covers will warp when subjected to heat. Then why don't the others leak and tell me their parts are made of non aluminum and I know they don't use any thing on their rubber gaskets liquid cooled don't want to hear it touch the V-Rod tell it feels cool.  I bought my first Harley  used in 1958 and I had a Old Harley mechanic chew my ASS out for not fixing it right. Even today you wont find cardboard under that old scooter. As for my TC made the $tealers fix it right 500 mile breakin it was already leaking they tried that sealant "Potty mouth" on me NO WAY I now have 35,000+ and it has'nt leaked yet with no gasket sealant. All I'am saying is fix it right RWJ  KEEP EM UP RIGHT 

[ClassicRider2002]

-

Anything added beyond this point is new information.

Regards,

"Classic"

[ClassicRider2002]

-

Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant  <~~~~CLICK, VIEW, & READ

Regards,

"Classic"

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your cursor next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your cursor on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[ClassicRider2002]

-

I FOUND THIS POST IN ANOTHER THREAD AND I FEEL IT'S WORTH MENTIONING HERE:

From: Harleyguy5731 Sent: 3/20/2008 2:41 PM
Evo's have base gaskets, Twin Cam's have "O" rings.  The reason that base gaskets leak on EVO's is that the heads were either not torqued down properly when they were installed either that or the rider does not warm the engine up sufficiently before getting into the throttle.  The aluminum heads grow as they get hot and as they grow the seal the thin base gaskets.  If the heads were torqued down beyound spec's as the jugs expanded they would tear out the bolts.  When a rider gets into the throttle before the jugs have expanded sufficiently, the head gasket will get trashed from pressure being built up in the cylinder, Twin cams tend to require less warming up that the EVO's, however they also do require some warming up to allow the jugs to grow and to seal the "O" rings,  I hope this helps!  Harleyguy5731

Regards,

"Classic"