Main bearing walk protection

[gabbyduffy]

       What is the industry standard to protect the main shaft bearing from walking on a set of late style cases. The cases are from 09 and the MoCo did not start installing the screws in the case yet to prevent walking.
       Does anybody have the measurement as to where to drill and tap for a screw and what size screw and style would be great also? 
       

[KingofCubes]

I use 1/4" button heads, I have a jig fixture for locating, just put them as close to bore as possible.

[Tattoo]

why was there a problem? 

[rbabos]

I also used two button head allen screws. Made a small drill and tap fixture to position the holes 180* apart, horizontal,  so the outer edge of the screw was about 1/16"+ inside the bearing bore when installed. This gave plenty of meat for the threads. 1/4-20 I think they were.  If it shears those off, you have other issues to deal with. Insufficient bearing press most common cause.
Ron

[speedzter]

It's interesting that the 99-06 Screamin' eagle "A" cases don't have the button screws  ?

[FSG]

why was there a problem?     

they could have made the oil pump housing to stop that   

[Admiral Akbar]

why was there a problem? 

Looks like the cam plate was moving on the case also..

[gabbyduffy]

why was there a problem? 

What year cases are these, that the bearing walked over that far?

[Wicked]

why was there a problem?     

they could have made the oil pump housing to stop that   

Not with the resident bean counters....  !!
Paul

[N-gin]

Why not three bolts..just seems better that way. Why only two? Just seems like it will allow it to rock with only 2

[1FSTRK]

Why not three bolts..just seems better that way. Why only two? Just seems like it will allow it to rock with only 2

If the race can rock in the case bore you have bigger problems.

[N-gin]

Why not three bolts..just seems better that way. Why only two? Just seems like it will allow it to rock with only 2

If the race can rock in the case bore you have bigger problems.

That's my point once it moves its going to start rocking.  Why not three?  Just seems like it will hold the race more evenly.
We are trying to prevent the rock in the first place right?

[Tattoo]

why was there a problem? 

What year cases are these, that the bearing walked over that far?

the bike was a 2010 FLHX and the customer is deaf and could not hear the noise and continued to ride the bike until it quit.

[gabbyduffy]

why was there a problem? 

What year cases are these, that the bearing walked over that far?

the bike was a 2010 FLHX and the customer is deaf and could not hear the noise and continued to ride the bike until it quit.

Was the motor stock, or was it beefed up? the runout must have been threw the roof, did you check it? my bearing boss on my 09 is huge, hard to believe the bearing could have walked that far. I'm betting in 2010 HD went with a shorter boss and once they discovered the bearing were walking is when they added the screws. I also bet that the chances for the bearing to walk in a 09 and down are slim to none, which means the only problem year was the 2010's.

[Tattoo]

Motor was stock and checking runout would not have been accuarate in that condition. I think you will find the cases were the same in 2010 and 2009 and I have seen bearings walk on other years as well.

[FSG]

I think you will find the cases were the same in 2010 and 2009

Cases P/N 24621-06        introduced with the 2006 Dynas

Cases P/N 24621-06A      introduced in 2007

Cases P/N 24621-06B      introduced in 2011 , these are the cases that have the bearing retainer

[gabbyduffy]

     So if the bearing depth changed between 2011 and 2010 did the thrust washer that sets the correct depth of the bearing race change as well? If the bearing depth changed then so would the bearing race depth...... wouldn't you think?

[gabbyduffy]

      Yep two different part numbers for the crank between 2010 and 2011. Seeing that the stock crank already has the thrust washer and race installed its not a big deal. But if you put in an aftermarket crank and you decide to use the lefty bearing I would think that the proper size thrush washer and bearing placement would be important.
      Are there 2 different size thrust washers that you can buy. there would need to be two different lefty bearing kits as well. one for pre 2011 and one for after.

   Add On........ After looking over the crank, the lefty bearing thrust washers would not matter because the change was on the pinion side not the sprocket side. The pinion side race is large enough to pretty much set the bearing depth any where you want with in reason.
                      Still wonder why the different part number for the crank between 2010 and 2011. I wonder what the reason was for changing "the case height for clearance" in 2011? wonder what would happen if you set the bearing to the 2011 specs and used the 2010 crank, would there be clearance issues between the inner case and crank?

[Admiral Akbar]

Why not three bolts..just seems better that way. Why only two? Just seems like it will allow it to rock with only 2

If the race can rock in the case bore you have bigger problems.

Well IMO it does rock or more for me, it walks.. Under heavy load the bearing is slowly pushed out of the case with due to a miss alignment of the flywheel shafts.. Not sure more than 2 screws are needed tho..

[rbabos]

I also say if that bearing walks or rocks with .004 interference fit there are big issues. I'd bet any of them that walk have next to no press fit once the case expands from heat. I know when I did my 120, it was the second bearing change and it only had .002 left. IIRC , that was the minimum allowed. The screws were added for insurance at that point.
Ron

[lisab]

      Yep two different part numbers for the crank between 2010 and 2011. Seeing that the stock crank already has the thrust washer and race installed its not a big deal. But if you put in an aftermarket crank and you decide to use the lefty bearing I would think that the proper size thrush washer and bearing placement would be important.
      Are there 2 different size thrust washers that you can buy. there would need to be two different lefty bearing kits as well. one for pre 2011 and one for after.

   Add On........ After looking over the crank, the lefty bearing thrust washers would not matter because the change was on the pinion side not the sprocket side. The pinion side race is large enough to pretty much set the bearing depth any where you want with in reason.
                      Still wonder why the different part number for the crank between 2010 and 2011. I wonder what the reason was for changing "the case height for clearance" in 2011? wonder what would happen if you set the bearing to the 2011 specs and used the 2010 crank, would there be clearance issues between the inner case and crank?

I believe the crank change was the elimination of the bronze wrist pin bushings for the connecting rods.

[gabbyduffy]

      Yep two different part numbers for the crank between 2010 and 2011. Seeing that the stock crank already has the thrust washer and race installed its not a big deal. But if you put in an aftermarket crank and you decide to use the lefty bearing I would think that the proper size thrush washer and bearing placement would be important.
      Are there 2 different size thrust washers that you can buy. there would need to be two different lefty bearing kits as well. one for pre 2011 and one for after.

   Add On........ After looking over the crank, the lefty bearing thrust washers would not matter because the change was on the pinion side not the sprocket side. The pinion side race is large enough to pretty much set the bearing depth any where you want with in reason.
                      Still wonder why the different part number for the crank between 2010 and 2011. I wonder what the reason was for changing "the case height for clearance" in 2011? wonder what would happen if you set the bearing to the 2011 specs and used the 2010 crank, would there be clearance issues between the inner case and crank?

I believe the crank change was the elimination of the bronze wrist pin bushings for the connecting rods.

............

[FSG]

note "running change"

[HD/Wrench]

you can swap crank no issues , stock or after market , Run the lefty on both sides all the time. We are then using a better crank S&S ,  but the area the bearing runs on is not something that is a issue they all fit. I have had customers bring me older crank with bushing for newer case. We swap bearings , install crank seal case..  I have only seen pictures of the bearing walking out. Even with some that have had huge runout ..

[KingofCubes]

I think you will find the cases were the same in 2010 and 2009

Cases P/N 24621-06        introduced with the 2006 Dynas

Cases P/N 24621-06A      introduced in 2007

Cases P/N 24621-06B      introduced in 2011 , these are the cases that have the bearing retainer

I don't care for this bearing positioning. I run the bearing as close inward towards engine centerline as possible. Even though I install the two button heads in every case, I set the depth of the bearing as far away from the retainers as possible. The reason is I have witnessed bearing race fretting the farther out the bearing is from center. Even though I retain the bearing, I have never seen one walk out to the button heads yet.