Author Topic: Jims 1034 or equivalent  (Read 489 times)

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Offline build it

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Jims 1034 or equivalent
« on: February 04, 2018, 01:00:04 PM »
How integral is this tool for bearing install? If itís integral to proper procedure, I canít move forward.

http://www.jimsusa.com/pdf/instruction-sheets/1034-IS.pdf

*one for koko
« Last Edit: February 04, 2018, 07:03:13 PM by build it »
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Offline koko3052

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2018, 06:47:52 PM »
Doesn't look like it has anything to do with checking end play, only holding the crank in a vise. :scratch:

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2018, 07:02:25 PM »
Should have said bearing install.

Thanks koko
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Offline Ohio HD

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2018, 07:22:38 PM »
This is all I ever use. And a good 0.0001" indicator.

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2018, 07:59:06 PM »
This is all I ever use. And a good 0.0001" indicator.

(Attachment Link)

Ohio, looks like you made some of those tools? Whatís that collar top center?

I have Jims 97225-55.

Iím stuck at install of bearings so I can measure the ďassembledĒ endplay. Iíll measure it again when itís completely assembled. I have 3 sets of bearings, and a few different size spacer rings, Iíd rather not roach the bearing and have to start over if at all possible.

Thereís nothing more demoralizing, to me, than a misstep that could be avoided by being conscientious. First build so no real feel for it yet.

Thanks man.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2018, 08:03:13 PM by build it »
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Online PoorUB

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2018, 08:36:14 PM »
You need a "dummy" shaft. you assemble the bearings on he dummy shaft, and check for end play and disassemble, shim and reassemble until you get the clearance you want. Then remove the bearings from the dummy shaft and install on on your crankshaft with the same shims as you had set up on the dummy shaft.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

Offline build it

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2018, 08:45:02 PM »
You need a "dummy" shaft. you assemble the bearings on he dummy shaft, and check for end play and disassemble, shim and reassemble until you get the clearance you want. Then remove the bearings from the dummy shaft and install on on your crankshaft with the same shims as you had set up on the dummy shaft.

I got that, and have performed that procedure exactly as it says in the manual except I used a premade simulator from Lang tools. I reached .0058Ē on the simulator.

The next step is to install bearings, section 3-107, but I donít have the fixture from HD or Jims 1034. Iím trying to forgo purchasing one of those tools if at all possible.

The last step is the assemble the left case and remeasure the endplay to make sure it is within spec, .001-.005.
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Offline Ohio HD

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2018, 01:58:31 AM »
This is all I ever use. And a good 0.0001" indicator.

(Attachment Link)

Ohio, looks like you made some of those tools? Whatís that collar top center?

I have Jims 97225-55.

Iím stuck at install of bearings so I can measure the ďassembledĒ endplay. Iíll measure it again when itís completely assembled. I have 3 sets of bearings, and a few different size spacer rings, Iíd rather not roach the bearing and have to start over if at all possible.

Thereís nothing more demoralizing, to me, than a misstep that could be avoided by being conscientious. First build so no real feel for it yet.

Thanks man.

There are two spacer lengths, you use which ever needed to keep enough threads is use to press the bearing to the flywheel. And also to press the outer bearing after the flywheel is inserted into the left case half.
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Offline prodrag1320

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2018, 04:32:43 AM »
you need a dummy shaft,we make them & sell them.PM me if you want one

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #9 on: February 05, 2018, 05:48:56 AM »
you need a dummy shaft,we make them & sell them.PM me if you want one

Lang tool is a dummy shaft. $30
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Online 1FSTRK

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #10 on: February 05, 2018, 05:58:55 AM »
How did they teach you to do this in school? (zero snark)
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #11 on: February 05, 2018, 06:12:24 AM »
How did they teach you to do this in school? (zero snark)

You’re trolling me now? LOL

That comment in your thread was sincere, as was the second one; you vet and solicit work for Vic, it’s not even a loosely kept secret.

Automotive we mic, sand, and use a hammer to set the crank back, dial indicator to measure upon assembly. The differences in assembly and process should be self evident, I didn’t attend MMI.
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Online 1FSTRK

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #12 on: February 05, 2018, 06:35:55 AM »
How did they teach you to do this in school? (zero snark)

Youíre trolling me now? LOL

That comment in your thread was sincere, as was the second one; you vet and solicit work for Vic, itís not even a loosely kept secret.

Like many here I am happy with my local Indy and if someone asks I give them answers. I openly promote and support many of the good vendors here. As for vetting and openly known facts,I can only think of two people in the seven and half years I have been here that contacted me off site and then contacted Vic to do something for them and neither were big jobs. Believe me Vic does not need me to send him work, he turns down work all the time. Often when I come here and ask questions it is because he is busy and I know others here have much to offer.



Automotive we mic, sand, and use a hammer to set the crank back, dial indicator to measure upon assembly. The differences in assembly and process should be self evident, I didnít attend MMI.

Self evident to someone that knows you and your history maybe. Looking at the OP and the replies it is not clear what you were lacking either tools wise or knowledge wise, you are out of class now and the real schooling begins. There are several ways to check and assembly the left bearing and case, what tools you have available can determine the method.
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

Offline build it

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #13 on: February 05, 2018, 07:45:08 AM »
Races were installed using the corresponding Jims tool, as was race spacer.
Lang tool is a simulator. I checked endplay with the matched bearing spacer, it was .003, I wanted more endplay, and now I have a little more with the next size up spacer.

What Iím asking is if the vise tool, 1034 is imperative to the job. I already mentioned having the bearing installed on the simulator, but have learned that I might not have the right spacer for the tool to install the bearings in the crank. The Jims literature doesnít make that clear.

Ohioís picture shows a different tool in the right of the photograph. Looks like the cups arenít used whereas my manuals approach requires the case has cups (races) be installed. The tool, center top, I canít make sense of.

Iím trying to either install as the manual shows it should be done, or, if itís less expensive, do it whatever way is recommended.

My concern with not purchasing the 1034 tool is that I donít want to have someone hold the side of the crank while installing the bearings and potentially screw the crank up, or roach the bearings and have to start over.

I wonder sometimes if people, in general, have seen what Iíve seen, or had similar dealings, in this business and howíd they deal with it.
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Offline Ohio HD

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #14 on: February 05, 2018, 09:28:15 AM »


Ohioís picture shows a different tool in the right of the photograph. Looks like the cups arenít used whereas my manuals approach requires the case has cups (races) be installed. The tool, center top, I canít make sense of.


The reason there are not races in the picture is because those two bearings have had the bore opened up to slide on the sprocket shaft of the motor, not press on. These are only used to "dry" assembly a bottom end so that other clearances could be checked. This isn't so much required today as it was with Pan Head and Shovel Head stroker lower ends. You had to clearance the cases for the crank pin nuts, rods, etc. As well I always still liked building up the case oil scraper, even though modern oil rings controlled the oil use. I've had most of my tools better than 20 to 25 years.

I always bear hugged the flywheel assembly on the bench and had a friend tighten the bearing. It wasn't like I was doing these every week, maybe twice a year.
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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #15 on: February 05, 2018, 09:51:59 AM »
Ohio,

Thank you for the explanation. Iíve assembled the ďpusherĒfrom Jims, any advice or guidance on determining what if any spacer I need. Spacer being that center top piece in your pics.
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Offline Ohio HD

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #16 on: February 05, 2018, 05:02:06 PM »
There are different length sprocket shafts over the years of HD big twins, so they supply different length collars with the tool. You use which ever one isn't too long or too short to push the bearing home. Some require the longer for the inner and the shorter for the outer. Note that this tool will not work on 2007 up Twin Cams with Timken conversion.
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Offline build it

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Re: Jims 1034 or equivalent
« Reply #17 on: February 05, 2018, 06:02:56 PM »
There are different length sprocket shafts over the years of HD big twins, so they supply different length collars with the tool. You use which ever one isn't too long or too short to push the bearing home. Some require the longer for the inner and the shorter for the outer. Note that this tool will not work on 2007 up Twin Cams with Timken conversion.

Appreciated.
Not everythingís a nail.