Author Topic: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail  (Read 2914 times)

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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« on: June 10, 2017, 07:34:56 PM »
I want a custom tour pack for my Softail, I want the basic shape of a HD pack, but want to chop it, hide the hinges, hide the latch, loose the flange, and the gasket.
I also want to reinforce it with carbon fiber, and be able to use the HD touring back rest.
So I picked this up on E-bay, it looks like it did a little slide down the road.



The tape shows where I want to chop it.
I want it big enough to fit a couple of half helmets and maybe a jacket or two but donít need it huge.
This is just for day trips with my wife, for touring I have a different set up.
First thing to do is grind off the rivets to take off the hinges.
You can see there is a nasty crack from someone opening the lid with a heavy weight on it. The fiberglass is very thin and in all honesty pretty flimsy, guess they want to keep the weight down.



Then start cutting off the flanges.





Here is what it looks like without the flanges.



Cut off the bottom, in order to mold the top to the bottom you need access from the bottom, you will understand better as we go on.



Where the crack is I am putting this temporary brace to hold it together.
All the edges have been sanded with a grinder so that the new resin will bond.



The top is smaller than the bottom so it needs a space so that when you start filling the gap it will match up. The braces are to keep the top in place, they are temporary there are also two in the front.



Turn it upside down. Next comes the glass and resin.
You can see where the crack is to the right.



Iím just putting 1-2 layers to get it started



And that is where I am at, more when I get time.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2017, 07:49:13 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2017, 07:49:03 AM »
Looks like an awesome idea :up:
Crock

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2017, 12:56:46 PM »
Thanks Crock.
Well I was able to get a little more done this morning, first thing after it had set up I was able to give the inside another coat of glass to build it up a little, until it sets you donít want to push it out of the gap so you let it cure first.
So now you can remove the supports.
   


Now to start on the outside, first grind down where it was cracked to the inside where you just put the inside layer.
You want to eliminate as much damage as possible.



Then I need to get rid if the rest of the lower flange on the bottom of the pack.



Iím also beveling the bottom edge so my new glass will be smooth, and adhere.



Then need to roughen up the gel coat so the new resin will adhere.
And yes that is pretty aggressive paper, think 50.



Then ready to start building up on the outside with glass.



That is probably four to six coats of glass, I use a combination of mat and woven depending on what I am doing, last night I used the woven because I was stretching between the two parts, today I am using the mat because it builds quicker and is cheaper.
I think that my paint brush is about shot, that is four uses, clean with acetone between.
And that is where I am at this point.
More later when I have more
« Last Edit: June 11, 2017, 01:02:40 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2017, 07:17:36 PM »
I was able to give it a good sanding, it is very straight and symmetrical, It had a few low spots, so those got filled in, and a final layer of woven mat.



Iím not sure what I want to do where the logo goes, I donít know if I want to fill it in or make a custom name tag for it.



Anyway it needs another sanding then it will be ready to cut the lid open, and start making the new hidden lip to keep water out.
But this is about ninety percent done of the first phase.
More later when I get more done.
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Offline Breeze

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2017, 04:22:53 AM »
Thanks Steve, I always enjoy following your projects.
I think I'll just stay home today, it looks too peoplely out there.

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2017, 07:01:19 PM »
Thanks Breeze posting online keeps me motivated, and I enjoy sharing.

I got a lot more done this afternoon, here is a quick look.
I picked up this back rest on E-bay, it is the main reason for the tour pack, yes my wifeís comfort, you know happy wife happy life. It will also help hide the big wide seat that looks so out of place on my bike when she rides along. Ten, fifteen years ago, I made up a seat for her out of an old FLH seat. In all honesty it looks hideous on my bike, but it is so comfortable for her that she wonít ride on anything else. I bought her a Corbin, she hates it. I am trying to buy a Sundowner but I know she wonít like it either.
In all honesty I canít figure out how we feel the driver deserves a seat sixteen inches wide but the passenger only deserves a seat the size of a band aid.
So enough of my mumbling, that is the main reason for the tour pack to help hide the big seat.
This back rest needs some work, it is broken on one side where it bolts on, so will need to pull off the cover and fix that, it also needs to be altered some to clear where the lid is going to open, will talk about that later.



On to what I got done.
I was able to get the rough glass sanded down it is very smooth, it still needs some work but at this time it is fine. There is no need to get it perfect because fiberglass has a built in stress that when it is cut it will warp. Kind of like wood when it is cut from a log, it bends with the grain. So we want to do all the cutting before we finish the body work. There is also going to be a lot of work on the seams of the lid, so lets leave the finish work for last.
Here is where the lid is going to be cut out.





Fiberglass does not like square corners, just like aluminum and steel it causes stress points so use anything handy for the radius.



You need to drill a small hole to get your blade in so did that in the back, if will be fixed when the final body work. (you can see that in a couple of photos down.) Then you just start cutting, fiberglass is horrible on saw blades so start with a new blade so that you are not fighting it. When you fight it you start pushing too hard and that is when you get crocked. Decide which side of the line you are going to cut and stay on that side.







I want the lid to be hinged from the back, I donít want the back rest to be fastened to the lid, I want it to be fastened to the base. I want the lid to be flat where it closes so I cut it a half inch from the recessed part even though the back rest covers this slightly. You can see that in the above photo.  I will have to modify the back rest so that it does not come that far back on the tour pack.
And that is where I am at, finished with phase one and a start of phase two, cutting the lid, and making the flange for it to close on.
I had to laugh I got to looking at old photos, my front fender was a crashed up E-bay part, that was the same color as the Tour pack. My rear fender was a crashed up E-bay part that was black, so was my tank. So something tells me I need to paint my bike burgundy and black.
More later when I get more done.
Oh yea starting to itch.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2017, 06:20:02 PM »
Inside needs to be cleaned up rough up so the resin adheres



Then the top needs to be taped off so the resin does not stick, Iím using clear shipping tape..





Then glass in where the new lip goes.



When it cures you need to pry out the lid, GENTLY.









Trim it a little.



And there is your lip for your lid to close on.



And that is the end of phase two, now starting on the hidden hinges.









Mounting the hinges will be the most challenging part, the lid needs to move back and up at the same time, a normal hinge would have to have the pivot point an inch above and behind the lid, not practical.
These are 165 degree hinges. They open like a scissor jack with one leg longer than the other so that when it expands it moves out and back at the same time. I donít need that much opening but will limit it with some sort of a damper or electronic linear actuator.
And that is where I am at, more when I have more.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2017, 06:53:58 PM »
I was able to get the hinges mocked up and temporarily fastened. It is hard enough getting the hinges figured out even harder getting them lined up evenly. If the hinges are not aligned then they bind when they open so the best way to figure everything out is to tie them together with metal. After you get everything mounted you can always cut away any extra metal you don't want. Iím using 1/8 x2 flat aluminum. I wanted quarter inch but could not find any, and my metal shop was closed.
So here us how they are tied together.
   



This way you get a real good idea how they work and where the best place to mount them.



I have a couple of screws holding them on for a trial fit, at this point we donít worry about drilling holes for temporary mounting they will be filled during the last body work.



And I have to fill in the voids between the metal and the lid and between the metal and base. I am doing this by building up the fiberglass then clamping the metal to the lid with the screws this forces out the extra resin and contours the area behind the metal.



I need to do a little more filling, and then mount anchors in the filled area to have the hinge assembly bolt to it.
And that is where I am at, more later.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2017, 06:59:06 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2017, 04:43:18 PM »

I was able to get a little more done, here is how it is built up under the metal where the hinges mount, first layer up the glass then clamp down the metal, let it cure. The extra will squeeze out.



Then I am using a piece of angle to fill the rest of the area the same way, layer it up with glass then clamp it down.



This is doing the same thing on the base, this give you a nice flat surface.



Here is what it looks after the second filling, it still need a little more work to make it look finished but that is later for now you have a nice flat surface to fasten your hinge plate to.



I drilled several new holes in the aluminum hinge plate for the permanent bolts, then mount the plate and drill through the base and top to mount the hinges.




There are several ways that you can anchor the bolts, I like to drill from the outside this way you know you are getting enough meat to not pull the nuts through.
You counter sink the hole enough for the nut to be buried.



Here is the top being done.



Then you epoxy the nuts in, or in this case glass resin with some filler to make it thicker.



Later I will use shorter bolts, and the nuts will be glassed over. I still have two to do, but they will go fast, I need to move them up where the glass is thicker, I drilled them not thinking about the thickness, so will do that tomorrow.
The door opens and closes perfect, the alignment need to be adjusted, the door moved around slightly, I can either adjust the hinges or make the fiberglass on the base fit the door.
The hinges help pull the door shut in the last inch that it closes so not even sure if I am going to need a latch. Not sure if I will need some way to pop it up either, it is pretty easy to just grab on both sides, and pull it open.
Any way that is where I am at, need to get a sheet of plastic to start making the bottom, I think I am going to trim the base a little more have it come up a little more in the very back.
More when I get more done.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #9 on: June 21, 2017, 06:56:59 PM »
Started working on the new bottom, I want to trim a base a little more, it is still a little fat and make the bottom curve instead of just being flat, (I want it to match my bike a little better,) so stuck a helmet in to be sure there would be enough room. The felt marker line is just a suggestion.



Here is what the final shape is the cardboard is a copy of the first cut side to mark the other side for cutting.



So,,,,,, to make the bottom I need something to glass against, so I go to the hardware store, and tell the kid who I have never seen before that I need a piece of hard plastic that is bendable.
He looks at me like I am crazy, thinks for maybe two seconds and says ďwe donít have anything.Ē I kind of laugh and tell him, oh yea you do, not even knowing what they had that would work.
He walks away even though I was the only customer. I walk around the store that I am sure I know better than he does, I look at trash cans, storage lids, everything is like twenty bucks that would work.
Then found these.



I took it up to the counter, and the kid said ďyou should have ask me for a for rent signĒ
I said I did not know what I needed until I saw what you had.
He just walked away again.
The casher who knew that I never used what I buy for what it is intended just laughed.



And here it is with the first layer of glass.



And what it looks like from the bottom with the plastic removed.



I was able to give it a second layer, it still needs at least another two but want to let it cure so that it does not distort, plus I ran out of time.
And that is where I am at, next on the list I think phase four, it starting on a temporary mount. I need to glass in a piece of metal in the bottom of the base to reinforce where it mounts, also need the mount to be adjustable so that I can move it up and down, back and forth to get the best position for Mrs. Cruiser before I make the permanent mount.
Plus I want to see what it looks like on the bike while it is still in the raw form in case I want more changes.
More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2017, 06:50:48 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #10 on: June 22, 2017, 04:43:55 PM »
Because I used a piece of plastic for a mold for the bottom, and did not use any gel coat first the surface is rough and some strands showing, I want to start the finishing process so I am giving the bottom a layer of gel coat with some Black color. This way it wonít take so much work moving forward. It is important to have all the glass strands buried when you start painting or it can ruin your paint. I am not sure if the tour pack is going to be painted or not but will run it just in gel coat to make sure everything work good before the final finish.  (Probably carbon fiber)
   


It will be sanded and at least one more coat.



I am starting the temporary mount, these quick release mounts are from a solo rack that I made years ago, and will use them for the mock up.



Here it is just on a chunk of wood and setting on the seat. I am just getting a feel for how long the braces need to be.



And here is the general area that it is going to sit, I am going to lower it about an inch. I want it high enough that it is comfortable for my wife but low enough that it is stylish.



I still donít know what I am going to make the permanent mount out of yet, 1/4 inch aluminum plate or have a piece of stainless steel water jetted. Maybe carbon fiber and aluminum or SS.
I donít want it to be part of the style but blend in.
I want to make sure of the placement, and comfort before going much farther on a permanent mount.
I need to start on the speaker cases next they will help decide on where the pack is mounted also, they will wrap around the seat and I need to see those before making a final decision.
And that is where I am at.
More when I get more done.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #11 on: June 24, 2017, 08:29:10 AM »
One more coat of gel to the bottom, this time applied with a squeegee to fill the voids.



And donít ask what I am doing now, the answer would probably be ďSomething stupid to make more work.Ē









And that is where I am at more later when I get more done.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #12 on: June 24, 2017, 01:52:53 PM »
And pop it off.



Sorry the photos arenít better.



This is only one layer of glass so it is very flexible easy to get it to unglued from the tape. I really like using the shipping tape glass hardly stick to it makes popping pretty easy.



And on the tour pack.





It is way to ďHeavyĒ so needs to go on a diet.
Those are dividers, I am using them to mark where I want to cut.
I want the back rest shorter and I want the back of the back rest moved forward and more of a slant. As long as the dividers are perpendicular it will mark where the two pieces will line up after cut.



After cutting the front line.



Then cutting the back line.



I want to do another trim to get the back of the back rest angled a little more I want it to flow into the tour pack and the top just a tad lower about an inch but that is the general shape. I donít want the back rest to overpower the tour pack.
Its 98 degrees out and 90 percent humidity in my open air shop, so air condition breaks feel good.
More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: June 26, 2017, 03:06:09 AM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2017, 05:49:43 PM »
I want to make sure the angle is right for the back rest, it will eventually have a padded leather cover in the front.
So old phone that has an angle finder checked against my nephews FLH



Here are the two glassed together, it was cut down even more and the back part laid down more.



You can see there is a gap on both sides that need fixed, and the very back needs to flow better. So a little tape to keep the filler off the base.



Then the areas the need to be changed are filled with Plaster Paris.



Plaster Paris cures very fast, and is easy to sand when set.
And then you glass over the changed area.



All the plaster paris and anything under this layer will be ground out from underneath before it is attached permanently to the base.
You can see how the back flows into the base better.


You could use body filler, and take your time and make the back rest perfect, but the areas filled would be too thick, and heavy so you would need to make a mold, then cast a new part, but doing it this way is just as time/cost effective.

Oh yea, decided to keep the recessed area where the name tag was, and ordered this, it needs to be trimmed a tad, and the corners rounded slightly.



And that is where I am at, more later.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #14 on: June 28, 2017, 07:43:15 PM »
I need to cut out the plaster between the two layers that was added to fix the contour of the back rest.











Now that the plaster is gone you can add more layers underneath and start sizing the glass, or making it smooth, I have not done that yet I will do everything at once so I am moving on to the speaker boxes. I donít want them to follow the arm rest, I want the boxes to flow with the base. To do this need to extent the glass, this time I sprung for a for sale sign.



It is screwed to the base and follows the curves. There is one rule for body work on Harleys, there are no flat surfaces so the plastic follows the contour.

And then you can glass the inside, attaching it to the base.



Pop off the plastic and you have your side. This is only one layer, this way it is still pliable and you are able to match one side to the other if they need to be changed. The addition is way bigger than needs to be, easer to subtract than add. I will make some cardboard templets to make sure both sides match.



And here is the second side, I waited until the first side had cured before doing the second, this way you can pull the plastic to the shape that you want.
 


And here is the back rest sitting on the base, you can see it is up at least two inches, I will trim both pieces so that they fit together
I am not sure where I want the cuts to be yet, probably cut the ends off the arm rest and nestle it into the extensions. This is where things get complicated, deciding on design features and figuring out the engineering aspect of what needs to be done when. It is also where things get boring, there is a lot of sanding to do and easy to look for an excuse to take a break, especially when you are itching and hot. And in all honesty looks like cra.......... easy to get discouraged.



There is still a ton of work to do, More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: June 28, 2017, 08:03:23 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #15 on: July 01, 2017, 06:47:17 PM »

I was able to get a lot done however at this point the photos donít look like it.
A little more trimming.



Time to mount the temporary mount.







This way I can sit on it and see how it feels and make any adjustments. And yea it is very comfortable.

It needs the front cut out so that the speakers can fit, also need to be able to access it from inside to glass the two together.





Yea, canít be considered custom until you shed some blood on it.



After a whole lot more trimming, and some more sizing.
Next thing is to glass the back rest to the base, need to put supports on to position it.



And glass it on, this if the first coat on the outside, it will be reinforced from the bottom after it sets.



And that is where we are at, more later.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #16 on: July 03, 2017, 03:27:15 PM »
Well I donít like these wings on the edges, on the vinyl one they were part of the seams and the natural shape of the back rest, and it is also what makes the back rest wider than the tour pack so off they go.



We are stepping up the design a little and the holes are getting larger so time to use a little modeling clay, you can get this at any hobby shop, not that expensive and last forever, very reusable, this stuff is at least ten years old.





It does not have to be perfect, the sizing will take care of any small imperfections.



Moving on the front, tying everything together.



Iím missing the glassing over that, so you just have to imagine that.
Then need to fill in the arm rest, same thing modeling clay, take you time easy to change now hard to change once it is glass.





Then glass over that, I am using woven cloth it is easy to work with on areas like this and I donít want to build it up to much, it will be reinforced from underneath with a couple of layers of mat before I start sizing this area.






I need to pull out the clay and clean it up before adding the inside layer, the clay has an oil base and so needs to be clean before you glass on any area that it was worked with.
Next is ton of sizing, sanding so there wonít be a lot of fast changes. I want to wait a few days to start the sizing, I have found that if I work with the glass more than three days I start to itch so bad I canít stand it, but one or two days, I can tolerate it. And once I get started, I want to get most of the sizing done at one time.
I am only working on this a couple of hours a day, usually in the afternoon after I get all my chores done, so progress takes time, and I am not a pro so it takes time.
For what its worth, I really like the shape of it, the lines flow much better I am very pleased.
More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2017, 03:34:24 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #17 on: July 09, 2017, 04:49:37 PM »
I spent the weekend sanding and making one last change, I told myself that the design work was done, then think of something to change.
So,,,,,,,,,,,, how about a little, gees donít know what to call it, tail?



















Everything is pretty straight, you sand until it is smooth and straight then fill the low voids and sand again, you can see the areas that have been filled and ready to sand again.
If you get the glass too thin then you fill it from the inside, you don't need the glass real thick, stock is about 1/8 , on this 3/16 of an inch is plenty, more is just extra weight. And since this is removable and extends back so far any extra weight is unwelcome, and there are going to be plenty of extras that are going to add weight.



An easy way to check you contour on a curved area us using a flexible ruler.



You can see the low areas that need to be filled with glass.

I want to show you a little trick to get your complex surfaces straight, you make a contoured sand pad.

Tape it off, glass it and add a handle.



Pop it off.



Glue some sand paper on with contact adhesive and sand away.



And one for the back.





Donít forget to put your tape down first or you wonít get if off your work area I have several of these custom pads that I have made over the years, one for fenders, it is especially handy to get the right contour. Normally on a fender because of the curve you have a tendency to sand flat spots so these eliminate that.



And that is where I am, I still have a little sanding to do on the glass, but the majority of the glass work is done, (Thank goodness,) next comes the body work and getting the lid to fit perfect.
More when I have more.
« Last Edit: July 12, 2017, 12:37:18 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Hossamania

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #18 on: July 14, 2017, 07:14:37 PM »
You are a talented, patient man! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
My boss always says mean things to me,
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Offline Paniolo

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #19 on: July 14, 2017, 07:31:16 PM »
I like it! Well done on all aspects.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #20 on: July 15, 2017, 02:37:28 PM »
Hossamania, Paniolo, Thanks guys, man I hit the wall this morning, woke this morning itching, just plain tired of sanding fiberglass, had to force myself out into the shop, once I got started made some real progress.
First I want to tell about an argument between practical Cruiser and geek Cruiser, geek wanted a electronic linear actuator, practical cruiser said to keep it simple so letís take a look.



In order to open the lid it takes five pounds of pressure, the smallest most practical 12v actuator will lift ten pounds max, I need a actuator ten inches travel, the overall length of the actuator is the travel plus four inches so fourteen inches. Then Mr. it canít be done Cruiser showed up with a ruler.



You can see in order to mount it the angle would be to acute to lift the lid with the weight restriction. Yea there are larger actuators but they are too large for the area and weight comes into play so no electric lid opener. Mr. Geek Cruiser is a little disappointed but knows the argument is over.

So I finished the glass sized and moved on.
I had a few last holes nuts to fill.



Next thing on the list is getting the doors to close and fit right.
When I put the door on last time it did not want to close right, nice thing about these hinges it that they are adjustable. So moved them around and they close perfect.
This is a big rasp that I am using to get the lid edge straight.



Clean up the lip.



We are not worried about the other side of the gap because we are going to fill the gap, in order to do that we mask off the lid so that the filler does not stick, then we mix up some body filler with a little resin and fill the gap.



You can see the resin makes the filler a little thinner and easy to squeeze into the gap. It also makes the body filler much harder and less likely to break out.

Then you pull the tape out.



And then we are ready to start the body work. This is the same mixture with the resin in the filler.



The resin makes the filler a little harder to sand, but it also matches the hardness of the glass when it comes to sanding. Regularly the filler sands out next to the glass and leaves a low spot this way they sand the same.
I got maybe fifty percent of the body work done, I am not going to show a bunch of body filler and sand photo.
The tour pack is very straight even though there is no need to get everything perfect because there is still going to be a layer of Carbon fiber over everything, and a pad on the front. Although I want it pretty nice because I will probably run with it for a while before the last layer to make sure everything works good.
And that is where I am at, going to try to get a coat of black gel, guide coat on tonight then start of the permanent mount brackets tomorrow. They are going to be carbon fiber with a plywood, steel core.
More later.
« Last Edit: July 15, 2017, 02:42:29 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #21 on: July 16, 2017, 03:04:56 PM »

I was able to get a coat of black gel coat on.





This is just a guide coat so that you can see your flaws, and gives you a idea when you have low spot when sanding, it is also a good base for future body work after doing so much glass repair.
It is still a little sticky so needs to cure a little longer.

I started on the permanent mounts.



The sprite box is the shape of the tour pack, and using the temporary mount to get the right height and placement of the pack.
Trace around the metal base and the bottom of the pack, it is important to keep track where your mount holes are on the bottom of the pack.



This is the basic shape that I am going for.
Transfer it to your plywood



This plywood is a piece of cabinet grade plywood, it has probably eight ten layers ply. It is very stable and strong, will make a good core for the carbon fiber.
And then cut it out.






I am not to worried about being perfect, fast is fine because it will be trimmed more as I see where it needs a diet.
Plus you always need to remember that this might end up just being a pattern if you donít like what you see and want to start over.



And here is what it looks like on the bike.



I am going to use the old metal plate from the bottom of the temporary mount inside the new mount, it will be encapsulated in the plywood and be bolted and epoxied in the middle.
So need to cut a grove for it to fit.





It metal will be trimmed at the back, and added to in the front, I want the front to grab the bolt in the very front just to be a little stronger.
You can see the bolt just in front of where the plywood stops.



It still needs a lot of trimming, the back of the pack needs to come down and changes for visual improvements but you get the idea of where I am going.
Under the seat will be a grab bar, it will be made of carbon fiber with plywood core also.
Next is trimming the mount and getting the final shape then I will use the first one to make the second side.
More when I get more done.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #22 on: July 21, 2017, 07:07:09 PM »
I did some more fitting, getting the top of the mount match the bottom of the pack, to do that you scribe the wood.



Then sand it to fit, I use a sanding station to do this, fifty grit belt takes it down pretty fast.
After all the fitting I decided that the pack needed to be moved back an inch and that it was an inch too low. So easer to fix it now as latter, like I said before this mount might end up as a pattern so here is how you do that and change the dimensions on the copy, rough it out with a jig saw, then the pattern is screwed to the new copy and you reposition it around to increase the height.
I am using a mica trimming bit in the router.



Then you use the copy to make another copy.



I know it seems like a lot of extra work, but this only took an hour or so to make the two new copies, the new permanent mounts, at least letís hope these are the permanent mounts;-)

I threw on a little stain, actually a little black paint in some mineral spirits, to get rid of the white.



Drill your holes for the bolts.
Notice the two pieces of wood in the vice so that the mount sits at an angle I did this so that it fits in my drill press and does not hit the back of the drill. I made these out of scrap pieces of cherry with a chop saw.



And yes I need to mow my yard.
I did clean my work area since I am done sanding fiberglass, actually flipped the piece of plywood over.
And here are the new mounts.



And on the pack.



I need to put it on the bike, give it a fitting; I want to use it a little make sure everything is comfortable while I do the last work on the mounts. The hole in the middle needs work, needs to be cleaned up edges sanded and edges 1/4 radius.
Also feel that the mount needs a brace between the two but not sure what I want there yet.
I need to figure out where I want to put all my electrical stuff I donít want it inside the pack. I need a place for the amp, circuit board for the LEDís and the wireless controller for the lineal actuator. Yes you read that right, Geek Cruiser would not give up, it should be here Monday.
I also need to cut the tails off of the metal bases, but want to wait, I ordered some locks for the base and donít know how they will mount yet so will cut those later and move them to the front to help hold the front down.
Oh yea showed the progress to Mrs Cruiser and she ask "where is the cup holder going to be?"
Hummmmmmm.............
More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2017, 07:18:05 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #23 on: July 24, 2017, 01:54:23 PM »
Well I ended up moving the pack back another three quarters of an inch.
As carful as I was with my measurements on the mounts and the holes in the bottom of the pack when mounted the pack sat crooked on the bike. I am still not sure where the problem is, so I had to cheat and move one side back a quarter of an inch, no photo for that sorry but I am sure you can see that in your mind.
I put the mount on tightened up all the bolts and nuts and took the bike for a ride to town with it on.
I spent more time looking in the mirror making sure it did not fall off and was sliding down the road;-)
It felt a little weird, you can definitely feel the extra weight especially since it is so high up and I donít know if itís physiological but felt like it was catching the wind a lot. But it rode well, it was moving around some, it needs a side brace between the two mounts, but we knew that. Most of the movement was between the wood and the metal mount plate. Since there is only one bolt holding it on both sides that will be taken care of when the plate is epoxied in so will not worry about that.
It is also going to need the locks mostly for reassurance that it will not come forward, backwards is not a problem because of the design.
I got several looks and I was only in town for five minutes, those ďwhat the ÖÖÖĒ looks. You know the looks, like ďthat guy painted that tour pack with a paint brush and bed linerĒ looks.
But the ride was to make sure it rode well not to show the world.
Getting it out of the barn it does look a little wide on the bike especially in the back, the photo makes it look even wider.
I am not sure if I am going to do anything about that, it is a little late to section it and take out a couple of inches.
I think part of the problem is the finish making it look bigger than it is so going to start the body work and wait and see. And at this point I am not even sure how I would do that, I guess cut off both sides and try to bend them in, it would be a major project.
Also the back is not as flat as the photo makes it look like



I am also going to start on the seat, ok an update of seat history you rember the corbin seat that I bought and started to cover that Mrs. Cruiser did not like, I also bought a sundowner seat that is really nice, (I bought it cheap creg list) I did not even ask her to try it is it so narrow. I sat on the passenger pad and would not ride on it around the block it was so thin.
So she loves the old FLH seat that I did for her years ago, so I picked up a FLH pad on Ebay.



You can see how much larger the FLH pad is compared to the sundowner.



I am going to take that pad and put it on the Corbin pan and re-upholster it. I am not sure if I am going to use leather or vinyl. Leather is beautiful but here in Fl not real practical because of the mold issue. It would have to be stored in the air conditioned area taken off any time the humidity was bad, so will probably use a nice grade of vinyl.
I will probably have someone cover it for me, as my sewing machine is just an old singer and will not do upholstery work very well, plus we all need to know our limitations and this I want nice. Sooooooo.

Started the final body work.



More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: July 24, 2017, 01:58:49 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Hossamania

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #24 on: July 24, 2017, 07:12:09 PM »
Looking good, you've been busy!
I don't think the box will look quite as wide with a body on the bike.
Good luck with the next steps.
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Offline crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #25 on: July 25, 2017, 04:38:44 AM »
Tour Pac looks great. How in the world did you find that seat pad on e bay?
Crock

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #26 on: July 25, 2017, 06:40:25 PM »
Tour Pac looks great. How in the world did you find that seat pad on e bay?
Crock, thanks that seat pad was a "Slide down the road special on Ebay" It was a make offer, so I told the guy to cut off the cover, keep or sell the seat pan and just send me the pad to save shipping. I got it pretty cheap.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #27 on: July 25, 2017, 06:51:50 PM »
Looking good, you've been busy!
I don't think the box will look quite as wide with a body on the bike.
Good luck with the next steps.

Hey Hoss, thanks, I've decided to chop the sides off and narrow it. if you look at a stock pack on a FLH the bags are wider than the tour pack, on my bike the bags are very narrow and that is what look so funny with the pack being stock width.
I looked at a lot of chopped packs on the net and all were stock width so I never thought it would be a problem, that is why I did not narrow it before.
I think this is my best option, although the cut would be next to the edge, 1 3/4 in the back and half inch in the front, also think if I do it that I will round the top edge instead of the sharp edge.
I havenít committed yet, want to be sure before I do.
Part of the bottom would have to be cut out so that I could access the inside it would be just a hole in the middle that would have a cover later, this would also be access for the actuator. More on this later.



This would make it three inches + narrower in the rear and an inch narrower in the front. It would keep my sides so less work than creating new sides. I thought about taking it out of the middle but that would take some out of the passenger compartment and donít want that. And I don't want to change the hinges.
The body work is coming along nice, the sides and top rear are almost done still more sanding to do.
The front has not been touched yet, that is a little headache area, but does not have to be perfect because it will be covered. I am saving this till last.
It wonít be long until I am ready so spray some primer/paint, I do think I am going to give it a base black and clear before covering it just to make sure it is straight and run if for a few to work out the bugs.



My locks came but I am not going to be able to use them.



Too much of the wood would have to be removed for them to work and this is a critical area for the mount and covering that area with carbon fiber is going to be hard enough.
I will have to figure out something else, probably just a j-hook made out of steel or aluminum in the back or something that screws in from the tail end under the bolts that hold the mount on.
It could be as simple as a nail in a tube that would slide forward under the bolt. I havenít gotten that far yet so will worry about that later.
My lineal actuator came in, it is going to work real well, nice size for what I want.



These come in different gear ratios, this is 63-1, the middle one for speed and weight, this one should take about eight seconds to open.
Itís going to be controlled by a wireless controller with a key fob, so just one click with the button and it opens-closes, more on that later.
Well that is where I am at, more later when there is more done.
« Last Edit: July 25, 2017, 06:56:11 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #28 on: July 26, 2017, 05:00:10 PM »
Ok committed, the hurricane strap will tie the side and lid side together to be worked as one piece.





This will also give me a chance to clean up the inside where all the glass work was done, although it is much better than I expected it to be.
This is all that was done tonight, and is enough for one night.
More when I get more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #29 on: July 28, 2017, 05:55:11 PM »
I am taking out an inch and three quarters in the back and half an inch in the front, this will cure two problems that I did not like first need to be narrower in the back but I did not like how fat the speaker arm rest were. I am not sure if the speakers will still fit, but will change the location if they donít.



Here is how it lines up.



Before I go any farther I need a access hole in the bottom to be able to glass together the side to the body especially where the lid is.



I need temporary metal straps to hold the side in place, it is important to line up the seam in the lid, I donít want to change that so on the top/front and in the back it needs to line up, if you donít change how the lid opens it will save a lot of work.
It also needs to line up in the front so that both sides match up.



And you can see what it is going to look like.



Then you start patching it together first inside with a single layer then start filling the gap on the outside.



Then you can start taking off your straps and open the lid for access to the inside where you continue layering the glass attaching the side.



And here you are.



I still need to continue the glass work on this side that will take most of the day, then start on the other side. The sectioning is a considerable amount of work for such a minor defect but I like where it is going. Better to fix it now than regret it latter. It has the side effect of making the pack look longer and streamline, and sure it will look better on the bike.
I need to round the rear corner, will fill it with glass on the inside and then grind it down.
I have decided to leave the top side edges fairly square, I might change my mind later.
More when I get more done.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2017, 05:59:37 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #30 on: July 30, 2017, 07:04:39 PM »
Side two is done.





I heard Steve Moal of Moal Coachworks when ask if they ever made two cars the same, he said ďNo it is hard enough to make both sides of one car look the same.Ē And that is true, first side is easy second side you spend more time measuring and checking than anything else.



I still have a little left on the bottom of the base but it is ready for final body work, the top still needs some work.



The corner needs to be finished up and more layers underneath and in front, then the grinding to finish it up, but it should not be a major thing.
You can see how the corners did not line up when the sectioned piece was taken out and how it is going to be rounded when done.
I like the final shape, it was a ton of work to do this mod but was well worth it.





Tomorrow I need to run to the automotive paint store and pick up some primer, need to redo the body work that was done and flip my work station over again to start the final body work,,, again.
More when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #31 on: August 04, 2017, 02:57:16 PM »
Ok a quick update, there is not a lot to show, in all honesty could show the same photos from two weeks ago and not tell the difference. What has it been one week to section the pack? I have most of the new body work done, a new guide coat and lid refitted. I had to add a layer of glass to the inside of one side , the lid spread a little, but was easy fix. Then grind down the outside some.



A little cleaning up of the inside lip.



I am using the same body filler with the resin to make it harder than filler, also used it for fitting the lid gap.



I picked up some primer, and should have some on this weekend. It is pretty straight, and anything left will be taken care of sanding the primer coat.
Glass is a little harder to get straight than metal it has a tendency to want to wave on you when you sand, you sand in valleys. These are fairly short body panels so not to bad. This is where the guide coat comes in and keeping the filler and surrounding area equally hard so that everything sands even.
Ok since that was written, Iím in primer, be it probably premature.





This really shows off where you need your body work and this coat for practical purposes is a sacrificial guide coat.
I still a lot more sanding and body work tomorrow, but think I will jump back on the mount.
Having serious thought about making the mount out of aluminum after all, think the black and chrome look might look better. Going to get the shape perfected then paint it black and then decide.
If going to aluminum it will be my pattern so not time wasted.
More when I get more done.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #32 on: August 04, 2017, 03:03:15 PM »
Oh yea wanted to mention this is a high build urethane primer, it has a hardener and when fresh is easy to sand, but when cured after a couple of days gets real hard, like a epoxy.
The high build helps fill sand scratches and works as a filler.

Also wanted to add a Side Note.
I was talking to a friend who used to do glass work when he was a kid, we were laughing about the itch and he said, Listerine.
Blow off, wash off, then put some Listerine in your hand and rub it on, I laughed then tried it, WOW is all that I can say, works great. Let it dry then wash if off because it dries sticky.
It must numb the skin, absolutely no itch, amazing.
End Side Note
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #33 on: September 04, 2017, 03:36:23 PM »
I wanted to post a little update, I am afraid that I have gotten side tracked on other projects, I finished the sign sample for the youth camp that I work part time for and made another a different color.



These will be directional signs and they will be stacked on top of each other maybe as many as six. And of course they will not say Harley Davidson, duh gees.
If I get the contract I am going to buy a CNC to do all the carving, Looking at the cnc shark hd4 extended bed. I would love to be able to make custom signs and even some custom aluminum pieces without all the hassle and time involved.

Also my lawn tractor compression releases went bad so it wonít start, so it is fix it or get something else, I had a chance to pick up a used 60" Dixie Chopper cheap with a thrown rod.  I swapped out the motor for a Briggs motor off an old mower that my son had. Figuring out the wiring was the hardest part. Man that thing is fast.
Anyway enough of my mumbling, back to the project, I was able to pick up a sewing machine it is not a walking foot, but is a commercial sewing machine. A singer 241-12, this is a mid to heavy weight machine. It will do what I want and was just a hundred bucks. I had to drive two hundred miles round trip to get it but well worth it.



Iíve been getting it in shape for upholstery work, if you have ever read my threads before, when I learn something I like to pass on what I have learned, so here goes. There are many different types of commercial sewing machines, commercial just means that it will run all day long at full speed and last forever, this means no plastic gears, and everything heavy duty.  This is a 241-12 singer, it has an oil reserve under the head and an oil pump that automatically oils the head as you sew, just like a Harley engine, needless to say they last a long time. This machine is a medium to heavy duty, so you can sew up to a quarter inch of fabric, even leather if it is set up right. I am going to be sewing up to four layers of vinyl so it will be fine. I looked up the date made and it is one month newer than me, pushing seventy. Like everything else that old you need to do a little work to get it working for the job you need it to do. This one was out of time. This is a pretty common problem on sewing machines, thread gets caught under the bed on the bobbin holder and the bobbin holder will slip on the main shaft, and the bobbin hook will not grab the thread. Also when you set up a machine for different thread thickness you need to use a needle that is bigger and the timing needs to be adjusted for that use.



You can see in the picture the needle in it down position, as it starts up the thread loosens up slightly, the bobbin case rotates and the hook grabs the thread, (not shown) and pulls it down and around the bobbin case locking the stick. If the hook is not timed and at the right distance away from the needle the stich is skipped or worse the needle can hit the bobbin case and break. You loosen the three screws on the bobbin case and rotate the hook so that it is at the right point and at the right distance from the needle.
On this machine the hook was way off, and had too much gap between the needle and the hook. I have been sewing all my life and never knew how to time a sewing machine, thanks you-tube. I also need to change the feeder foot, this machine was set up to sew thin fabric and has a fine feeder foot. The heavy foot is on the way. I have a sample of Naugahyde coming. I visited my local fabric store and the selection is pretty poor for seat covering.
Lets talk about needles, goodness never knew there were so many different types. First you have the style if needle, this is just to tell you what kind of machine that it fits, the length and shaft type, this takes a 16-257, try finding that at the local store. Girl just looked at me and smiled, and ask me what SHE was sewing. I looked at her and said ďThat is a sexist comment, why do you assume it is a woman doing the sewing.Ē We both laughed and then I had to give her an education on needles.
Anyway then you have the size of the needle, you have the metric standard and then you have the singer standard that has been around forever and singer will not change. I need a 20 singer, or 125 metric needle. That is a very thick needle for heavy thread. The needle has a grove on the side for the thread so the thick needle size is to accommodate the grove as well as being stronger for the fabric you are sewing. You donít want to use a real heavy thick needle of a thin piece of vinyl with thin thread and have a real big hole and small thread. The thread that I am going to use is v92 in black or red not sure which yet. That is like a button thread, very heavy, so need the big needle.
Then there are different types of needle points for different materials. You need a sharp point or diamond point for leather, vinylís and denim, you use a rounded point for woven fabrics. Are we all confused yet?
Anyway I picked up some standard singer size 18 needles to time the machine and they seem to work just fine, the correct needles are on the way.
Then you need to learn about thread tension, there is an adjustment on the top for the top thread and one on the bobbin for bottom thread tension. You want the threads pulling on the fabric and meeting in the middle of the material.
Of course the machine was not threaded right so that had to be learned. Every machine threads differently this on has it idiosyncrasies. Around the thread lead twice then three times through the next guide, feeds the needle from left to right, gees no wonder no one likes to sew. And letís not forget stitch length, on leather and vinyl you cannot have the stitches to close, if you do the leather can tear. Think of perforated paper in a note book that is deigned to tear out. This one is nice has a maximum of 5 1/2 stitches per inch, I think about seven is about right.
This machine has what is called a clutching motor. When you turn it on the 1/3 hp motor turn on and is always spinning, you push in the clutch to start sewing. It will sew 5000 stitches per minute so in order to go slow you need to slip the clutch. This is a bit touchy and takes a little getting used to. They make an upgraded servo motor that only spins when you press the (gees donít know what itís called, guess when you hit the throttle;-) and it runs much slower. For sewing fabric in a sweat shop these machines were running full speed, for leather heavy material you need to go slow so I might have to change the motor out.
Anyway long story short, I have it sewing really nice, and waiting on supplies, especially the sample material so that I can order that, oh yea, it is genuine Naugahyde, imitation elk pleather.
Gees wonder if anyone read all this. Letís throw in a photo at the last just for the people who just look at the photos.



More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2017, 03:46:59 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Hossamania

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #34 on: September 04, 2017, 03:58:52 PM »
I did read all of it, and was impressed with your knowledge and skill with another trade and machine. It sure opens more doors for your pursuits.
Good luck with the sewing, the sign machining, and the tour pack when you get back to it.
My boss always says mean things to me,
like, "You're late."

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #35 on: September 04, 2017, 04:50:53 PM »
    Nice read,, I have a singer 109W100 with the clutch and brake I need to set the
timing on it, sews good fast but not slow.
Now I know, why some animals eat their young.

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #36 on: September 26, 2017, 05:04:20 PM »
Ok, time for a update, I have gotten a little side tracked, finally got everything sorted out and had a visitor come through town in a bad mood, yea I live in north Florida, so had to board up, then sit in the dark for four days then clean up. Things are pretty much back to normal but we saw some eighty mile an hour winds from Erma, had several big trees go down, both of our drive ways were blocked by big trees. In all honesty glad itís done but watching the wind was awesome. We have large live oaks in our yard, and we live in the loft of our barn so we have a ring side view of trees dancing in the yard, trying to switch places. Until you see it in person it is hard to understand. Then we had major flooding at work, several of our buildings were flooded out by the Santa Fe River rising and back filling our spring. The main camp road was under six feet of water. Lucky none of the major building were affected. Then there are the sink holes, I spent all day filling sink holes with the back hoe, tractor.
Anyway enough of my personal stuff, I know you guys donít want to read this.
I am starting the upholstery work on the back rest. There are several ways that you can cover the back rest. At first I thought I would make a pad that would just use snap to attach.  But after thinking about it decided to make panels to cover then attach them to the pack. This will make a much cleaner installation it wonít have that pillow look.
So here is what they will look like.



Yea just a rough drawing of the seven different section, these will be made out of fiberglass with carbon fiber showing in between, they will be covered with padding then covered with Naugahide. The corners will be rounded to make the vinyl easier to wrap around. They will also have a piece of plywood in the middle to staple to, that I am going to make out of thin strips of wood glued together, kind of like this.




Yea I know you need to use your imagination.
The panels will have bolts attached so that they can be attached to the pack from the inside.
I got my Naugahide, I have two different colors black and I think they call it crimson, I would call it oxblood. I believe that the middle sections will be the crimson and the outside will be black, but that could change.




Photo does not show the color very will especially the black but then we all know what black looks like.
I really like the Naugahide, you can tell it is quality not the cheap stuff you see at Wally world fabric department. (it was about twenty bucks a yard+ shipping) I would prefer to use leather, it is easier to work with and in all honesty not much more expensive, but for my high humidity living in the sub tropics with mold to contend with, I donít want to have to take the tour pack and seat upstairs  to the air conditioning every time I am not using it.
Ok, just to be honest, it is disclaimer time, do not confuse me for someone who know what they are doing, I am making this up as I go. I have had this vision in my mind and this I how I am going to go about it.
Here is what the seven different panel will look like, they are fiberglass, and like I said there will be carbon fiber showing between the panels.



They will be removable, with pad glued to them and hidden bolts in the back holding them on.
I want to be able to wrap the cover around the panels and staple the cover to it so I have had this oak veneer for years and just going to waist. So I am going to form the veneer into plywood glued to the panels.















There is clear shipping tape to keep the glass and veneer from sticking to the tour pack. It is working very well, I am learning as I go, I have found that I canít do to many layers at a time and was thinning my glue too much.
It is very tedious, but like I said custom is not fast, and there are no instructions so you learn as you go.
I have one layer on the lower curved section, they are the hardest, and that is why I practiced on the middle first.
So far so good, but if these do not turn out perfect, they could wind up in the trash and go back to the snap on pad, it is going to be interesting to see how they turn out.
More when I get more done.
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Offline Breeze

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #37 on: September 27, 2017, 03:40:17 AM »
It's about time you got back on track with that project.  :kick:
I think I'll just stay home today, it looks too peoplely out there.

Offline Evo160K

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #38 on: September 28, 2017, 08:50:38 PM »
Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers,

Do you have these?

Parts list                http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS10/241-11,12&13.pdf
Service manual      http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERSERVICE3/241-Inst.pdf

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #39 on: September 30, 2017, 05:09:24 AM »
It's about time you got back on track with that project.  :kick:
:)
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #40 on: September 30, 2017, 05:12:53 AM »
Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers,

Do you have these?

Parts list                http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS10/241-11,12&13.pdf
Service manual      http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERSERVICE3/241-Inst.pdf

EVO, thanks I have the user manual, but not the parts. It's amazing how these old machines​ hold up.
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Offline Evo160K

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #41 on: September 30, 2017, 11:26:54 AM »
Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers,

Do you have these?

Parts list                http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS10/241-11,12&13.pdf
Service manual      http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERSERVICE3/241-Inst.pdf

EVO, thanks I have the user manual, but not the parts. It's amazing how these old machines​ hold up.


You're welcome and you're correct.  That type of quality, engineering and craftsmanship is amazing........and awe inspiring imho.

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #42 on: September 30, 2017, 01:44:45 PM »
I have started to work on the aluminum mount/base, I really enjoy working with aluminum, by far my favorite thing in any project. The upholstery work, fiberglass, even the paint, is interesting but does not beckons me to the shop like the aluminum does.
This is 6061 or t6. I like this particular aluminum because it is strong and holds a polish really good. Once every two years or so and it looks nice, a lot of guys call this aircraft aluminum, but of course it technically it is just used a lot in the aviation industry along with other different types of aluminum.




I have transferred my pattern to the plate, (it is 12Ē x 36Ē 1/4 inch plate with a brushed finish) and I want to add just a little to the front to catch this bolt with the bungee tie on it, the base will go under this bolt to give it a little extra strength.
(not sure why my photos are blurred)





And start cutting it out, I am cutting on the outside of the marker, leaving some to trim latter. The piece is too large to cut on my band saw so using the saber saw. The saber is actually more accurate than the band saw but a real pain to cut the t6, and a lot slower. It has a tendency to jump since the blade is going up and down instead of just down.
Here is a little tip, do not skimp on blades, harp blades save you a ton of time and frustration, when the blade gets dull, pull it out and put it in a vice and break off the top inch of the blade, then grind down the top teeth so the blade fits in the holder. You get a new sharp blade just a little shorter. Sometimes you can do this three times, sometimes two depending on your blade and saw.



And there is your piece roughed out. You can see at the bottom of the picture how I added and extra couple of inches for the front bolt. I still might trim the whole area above the mount pins but for now easer to leave and trim later than to trim now and not have enough. I think that makes since 




Iím using a hole saw to start my inside,,,,,, hole, design, relief, plate lightening feature, not sure what to call it .



And this is a spade bit, I like the spade because it is faster, but only up to about and inch and a quarter then the spade is too large for t6.





Iím using an old caliper to make a scribe mark for the hole pattern.



And then cut it out.



And there you go, side one roughed out ready to sand down to the line and cut the mount holes. This took about three hours taking my time, one run to the ace for blades. It still needs a lot of work to get it finished. This side will be used for a pattern for the other side and it will take half the time to make.
Later I will probably add some decretive holes along the top and down the back, different sizes small to large but that is later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2017, 01:48:48 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #43 on: September 30, 2017, 04:41:58 PM »
I was able to work on the mount for a couple of hours this afternoon, getting everything smoothed out and down to the line.




Iím using a variety of tools that I have acquired over the years, this is a stationary sanding station, it is very handy for flat areas.



This is a oscillating sander it goes up and down and around at the same time, very handy, when this was given to me for my birthday I thought I would never use it, but it is one of my favorite tools. Great for sanding up to the line.





This is a rasp in my drill press.



And there it is the edges sanded smooth.
Tomorrow I am going to start on the quick mount holes, the two front and back are simple, just a slot, the middle is the head ach, first the bracket is 1/8 inch wide and my plate is ľ so I need to narrow the plate where it goes in. To do that I am going to use my spade bit.



Here is where it line up, you can see the blue marking holes where it will be drilled part way through to narrow the plate.
I has to be L shaped so that it locks in.



Here is a better photo with the flash off so you can see where it needs to be narrowed with the spade bits.
Then after it is narrowed I will drill the holes out to 5/8 so that it slides up and over into a slot.
It will make more since when you see it done.
I had to drill the hole out on the new quick connect mount that I bought just for this project.
My old mounts are wore out the plastic is gone from 16 years, 190 thousand miles of riding.
I feel the new mount keep the pack/mount from rattling around when no one is sitting in the back putting on pressure.
Anyway more when I get more done.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #44 on: October 01, 2017, 03:55:42 PM »
I had a few hours this am and pm, moving along on the mount.
Here I am using the old mount as a pattern where I want to drill for the L shaped slot for the quick connect.



I have drilled three pilot holes where I where I need to plate thinner.
Then using the spade bit to shave it down.




Before I can use this bit I need to take off the cutters on the end, and make sure it is square and sharp.
I like the spades for aluminum because they are so easy to sharpen compared to hole saws.



Then drill out the holes to half inch.



Iím using a variety of tools to cut the slots.





Then the back mount.



Your tape measure does not lie.
Measure, scribe your mount, center punch, and drill.



Then cut out the slot.



And there are you two back mount slots, without the front mount.

   

This is just a rough draft of what I need.
Cut it out then keep grinding until it fits.
There is not as much metal under the front mount that I would have liked but this is just an extra support, and I will probably put the lock up here to help reinforce it.



And here you go side one done.



There are a few thing that I donít like and will change later like how the back lines up with the saddle bag mount but these thing can be changed later. I left it long in case I wanted the lock there.  I am not sure if I like the front being so fat, but want to leave it until I decide where the cup holder goes. In all honesty I donít need a cup holder just a place to stick a bottle of water for Mrs. Cruiser.
I am also thinking of hand grips under the seat, that is also why it is so fat under the seat.
Itís hard to tell without the pack on if the mount looks to heavy, but will decide later if it needs to go on a diet, maybe some holes as a weight reduction and style feature.
More later when I get more done.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #45 on: October 03, 2017, 04:34:45 PM »
A quick update, I took off about ĺ of on inch in the back of the mount to match up with the saddlebag hanger.



I cut it then sanded it, then used it for the pattern for the other side, here it is ready to cut out.



This time I am going to use my band saw, it is a little faster and since the piece is smaller easier to use.
You can see most of my tools are old rummage sale/hand me downs,  that I have acquired over the years.



I am just cutting up to the line, leaving plenty to trim.
Next I have clamped both together and I am using the first side as a pattern to follow using my router table and a mica flush cut trim bit.



A trim bit has a wheel either on the top or bottom so that it follow a pattern and makes a flush cut.





And there is your exact copy this second side took about two hours to make, a lot faster than the first and that includes the time to change the first side.
I did not cut out the center hole, or the L shaped middle slot for the quick connect, the slot needs to be thinned before cutting the slot, and after I do that then will use the router.
The center hole, I am not happy with it yet, and want to change it some before I waste time cutting it out on the second side.
Next up is making a brace to go between the two sides, but that is later.
More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2017, 04:43:41 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #46 on: October 04, 2017, 03:50:21 PM »
I was able to get the L slot thinned and cut.



So now time to start on the cross brace.



This is Ĺ x 2Ē 6061 flat bar.



I have cut it down to 9 ľ then squared to ends with my stationary sander.
In order to measure the distance between the two mounts I cut a piece of wood first to make sure of the measument then transferred it to the t6




I want to give it a little diet, and add a design eliment, so.




Remember aluminum does not like square corners.



Then to the band saw, this thick aluminum does not cut very well with a jig saw, especially a piece this small.
Notice the water droplets on the piece, alumuinum like to stay cool with water to keep it from melting and sticking to the blade, it also works as a lubricant.



And there is your brace, still needs to be drilled and taped for the bolts, and needs a couple of hours with a rasp, also the edges will be beveled.
Power tools will not fit to well on this. I find it interesting that I love spending four/ five hours on a piece that no one else will even notice, but it is features like this that make all the difference.
And that is where I am at, more later when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #47 on: October 05, 2017, 05:13:31 AM »
Awesome.  Keep the pictures coming.  :up:
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #48 on: October 05, 2017, 04:17:10 PM »
Awesome.  Keep the pictures coming.  :up:


Thanks 2004, So I was able to do some more filing, and marked, center punched and drilled pilot holes for the bolt holes.



Then drill the 13/64 hole for the ľ 20 tap.



The zip tie is for the depth that I want, make sure to keep the flukes clean on your bit, you can gall your hole real easy by not pulling out the bit every once in a while. The deeper you go the more you want to clean it, here every quarter inch or so.
The paint brush works great for brushing out the chips, you also need to keep the hole lubricated with cutting oil.



I like to start my tap in the drill using just my hand to rotate it. Using the drill makes sure the tap is lined up with the hole.



Then use your tap handle. Remember to use cutting oil and keep your tap cleaned out. Also you do not want one continuous chip, go in a half a turn and out a quarter, when you back it out you will hear your chip break. This way you do not end up with a big spiral chip at the end of your blind hole or worse yet wound around your tap as you are pulling it out causing the tap to gall your new threads.



The last thing that I did was bevel the edges a little.



When I am done I will put a little more bevel on it, but for now this is fine. The reason for the bevel now is so that I do not have such a thick edge to file/sand, there is no use sanding a half inch thick piece of t6 when I can bevel it down to 3/8.
The brace it taking shape, I still have another couple of hours filing and sanding then a couple polishing it. But that is a no brainer so I enjoy that, it is starting to feel good in the hand. There is nothing more rewarding than a piece of aluminum that you create in your mind, and then make.
I might end up making another one so that there are two instead of just the one. I will determine that when I start bolting it together.
I donít want any side to side movement or worse yet to break the cross brace because it was not strong enough or gave it enough support.
Anyway that is where I am at more later when there is more.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2017, 04:24:44 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #49 on: October 06, 2017, 04:30:40 PM »
Iím getting ready to mount the pack, the back had to be trimmed about a quarter inch and the front just a shade to fit the bottom of the pack.
I also wanted to change the front just a little.





It stuck out too much in front of the pack.



Here is what I am thinking about the brace.



I ordered another piece of flat bar, this one 1/2x3Ē instead of the 2Ē to make a second brace, it will go farther up toward the front.
Now time to make the mount brackets.
This is 1 1/2"x2" angle, I am using my chop saw to cut them one inch long.





Drill a quarter inch hole.



Clean them up.



And there is your mount brackets, almost done.
I need to alter them some, when I started to put them on I donít like how big they are so I am going to cut the long side down to one inch making it a 1x1 Ĺ angle.
Also the chop saw did not do a very good job of making them square, so need to work on that. I want these mount brackets to be pretty uniform so that they can be interchnagle and not location specific.



And of cource I cant do anything the easy way, I want them mounted on the inside with the long part coming over the mount.
Kind of like this.



This way all you will see from the outside is a small button head. Of course I need to cut a slot so the angle set in it, I am going to do that tomorrow.
I am trying to get an idea how I want the lightening holes drilled, I am thinking between the mounts and braces, starting in the back about 3/8Ē then getting bigger as they go toward the front. Also a set going down to the quick connect point getting smaller as they go.
Anyway, I need to get all this mounted and the brace positioned before I can see what it looks like to make any decisions on that.
I had hoped to get some black and clear on the weekend, but,,,,,, something about a hurricane in the gulf, so going to be too humid to paint.
I am getting awful sick of the gray primer.
Thatís about it, more when I get more done.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #50 on: October 08, 2017, 12:41:34 PM »
So like I said I did not like the brackets so big, so cut them down to 1x1 Ĺ



I got a new blade for the band saw, the band saw work so much better than the chop. Iíve marked my side rail mount and cutting the slots for the angles.





Clean them up with the Dremel.




Then the file, this angle has a radiuses inner side where the two sides come together, it makes the angle stronger, remember aluminum does not like square corners. You can get it without the radius but most come with it.
So you also need to file for the radius to clear.



When you take your time you can get your pieces to fit perfect, or at least perfect where the mother in law looks. :gob:



And only five more to go.



Here is what it looks like from inside where it will be hard to see.



These  will have button head bolts and acorn nuts so they will be part of the design. I was tempted to go with rivets but want to be able to take them apart to polish them in the future.



And that is what it will look like from the outside, of course the brace will be on the inside.
Here is Photoshop, where I think I will put the lightening holes.




Man Iím so rusty on Photoshop, this is just hacked together but you get the idea. The center hole needs to be changed and maybe some holes running down to the quick connect.
Well that is where I am at more later when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #51 on: October 08, 2017, 04:12:42 PM »
A couple of real quick.



I printed out some ďHolesĒ and glued them on for placement.
I need to get some spade bits in the size I want, so this is on back burner.



And on the bike, I need to make the second brace for underneath before I can drill the holes in the bottom of the pack to mount it, the plate should be here tomorrow.
Iím tired of smelling fiberglass, ground aluminum, tired of planning where things go, how much to cut, so looking forward to sniffing some paint fumes in the next couple of day. :missed: (In a good way) Going to start wet sanding the pack for preparation of paint.
More when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #52 on: October 09, 2017, 04:45:06 AM »
You're in the home stretch now.  It is not easy to plan something like this.  H-D has a whole department of engineers to figure things out.  You are doing a marvelous job.  :up: :up:
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #53 on: October 09, 2017, 04:03:26 PM »
You're in the home stretch now.  It is not easy to plan something like this.  H-D has a whole department of engineers to figure things out.  You are doing a marvelous job.  :up: :up:


2004, thanks, Yea it can get complicated when you design as you go, things don't turn out like you see them in your head, and when you change one thing it changes something that you thought was done.
This is a real critical time, you are getting tired ready to move on and one mistake or one problem that you can't solve can keep the project on the bench,,,,,, forever.
Well I am wet sanding, actually done wet sanding.


   


Iíve sanded off probably 75% of the high build primer getting it smooth. I could use another primmer coat and wet sand but I am going to go ahead and prime it and paint it.
The imperfections are so small I think the last coat of primer and the clear coat color sand will take care of them.
I need to get some color on and use it. If it needs to be spot premiered and repaired I will do that when I do the bottom. Yea you forgot about the bottom and that hole that You cut didnít you Cruiser;-)
Anyway, (gees I say that a lot,) Iím going to spray some primer tomorrow, the weather looks good. Itís been 99% humidity and raining for the last few days so looking forward to some paint.
More when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #54 on: October 13, 2017, 04:39:52 PM »
Well I changed my mind; I said I was going to concentrate on getting black on, after I sprayed on the primer it looked so good I decided to do a little more filling and getting the pack perfect before doing the color coat.





I need to sand that down, and then do a little more filling around the lid to fill in some gaps; anyway, I have jumped back on the mount.



This is the second brace that will go up toward the front.



I was able to get it pretty much done, holes drilled in the ends to mount, sanded pretty good, still needs some finish work.



Here is the side plate with final measurements, placement.



Center punch and drill.



Trial fit.








I was also able to drill out some of my holes, I think they call them speed holes, and finish my center hole, this is the second side clamped to the first using the router table trim bit trick.

The mount is very strong and fits very well, it pops right in place; it weighs in at five pounds so it still needs to go on a diet. I also need to cut down the weight of the pack itself, so I ordered an angle die grinder to grind out some of the inside.
I picked up a bunch of button head SS, and some SS acorn nuts to put everything together with. Iím going to try to get the last speed hole cut, but need a 1 ľ bit. Then I can mount the pack and see how everything lines up.
I still have a ton of stuff to do but that is where I am at, more when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #55 on: October 14, 2017, 02:57:26 PM »
I did a little filling around the lid; it had a few small gaps.



This is epoxy with some filler to make it thick, it holds up better than body filler and glass resin.



You tape off your lid so the filler does not stick, let it dry and then pop it open and sand.



I got all my holes drilled, and here I am beveling all my exposed edges.



I really like the 45% beveled edges instead of the rounded, it acts like a diamond cut and highlights the edges instead if blending.
They will be hit again later after all the edges get a good sanding, there are still some rough spots, but like I said before the bevel makes for less edge to sand.
When you polish the beveled edges you lose some of the sharpness, so you need to do a lot of sanding and keep the buffing to a minimum. Iíll explain the better later.



Here I am starting to clean up my stock, this is 220 on my da.






Then you move on to wet sanding in a straight pattern.



And here we are assembled, notice the 3/8 hole was too small for my wheeled bevel bit so will have to do that by hand later. There are still some spots that I donít like, and the front still needs the hand holds and the cup holder. I will also add some lightening holes in the front to pull everything together.



All that work to make the braces and you cannot even see them;-)







A blurry photo but you get the idea. More later when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #56 on: October 15, 2017, 09:34:48 AM »
A couple of real quick, and then I need to mow my yard.



Laying out to mount my mount on the tour pack, center line then measure out.



Position, drill your holes and bolt it on.
Here is a good example of no matter how much you plan everything out when you change one thing it changes something else that you did not think of. I was going to leave the hole in the middle of the bottom, and just make a lid for it.
Well you can see the braces are in the way I did not see this coming, so I am going to fill that hole and move the hole to the side under where the actuator goes. Duhhhh.



And here is a side by side of today and before the pack was narrowed.
Speaks for itself, fits the look of the bike much better. I did take it to town for a test run, even stopped to pick up some stuff, yea actually used it, holds a 12 pack of soda, and a can of Bondo, although I was carful that the can did not roll out of the hole in the bottom, need to take care of that;-)
Itís going to be handy stopping for lunch, a place for the helmets and taking some extra jackets along.
Oh yea Mrs Cruiser tried it, she like it.
More when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #57 on: October 16, 2017, 09:41:33 AM »
Awesome work.  Thanks for the pics.
My Ride: Road King

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #58 on: October 16, 2017, 06:25:00 PM »
Awesome work.  Thanks for the pics.

2004, thanks, I rode it to work this am, I wanted to see what it does on the wash board dirt road. It rattles a little bit on big bumps but not noticeable, I donít think it is a problem especially when I have Mrs. Cruiser holding it down, and the front lock should help.
I did not have a lot of time today, RL stuff to do. I want to get started on my electronics so was able to lay out where I want my LEDs.



I thought about putting them under the pack, kind of hidden but think it will add to the interest in the back.
The wiring is going to be a little complicated, I am going to need a box someplace to hold all the controls and a circuit board for the LEDs, I am thinking underneath.
I am not going to put the speakers in or the amplifier; I am getting concerned about the weight. The pack weighs in at about thirty pounds, not bad now, but in order to take it on and off, I need to keep it as light as possible.
More later
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #59 on: October 20, 2017, 04:01:07 PM »
Iím moving in several directions at the same time, time to drill some pilot holes





Then the 5/16 holes.



These are 6mm id, 8mm od carbon fiber tubes for the LEDs to sit in. Man this stuff is tough, when I say strong, it will hold me when suspended between two pieces of 2x4. And so light, like a straw you would get at McDonalds.
Anyway I am mumblings again.



Cut them to 1 ľ on the band saw, they cut pretty easy but you can tell that they are hard, about like cutting aluminum.



And insert them in your holes.
I am going to let them stick out until I epoxy them in, then they will be ground off flush with the rear of the pack. All you will see is a hole, you wonít even see the LEDs until they come on, they will be recessed about Ĺ and inch.
I also had a chance to start on the electronic actuator.




Here is a real quick video of how it works.
https://youtu.be/QvCpBi-MOTw


Trying to figure out where it should be mounted, In all honesty this is going to be a real challenge especially with the weight restrictions of the actuator.



Shut it is 8.25 open 14 so need it as straight up and down as possible, needs to be as far towards the front as possible and still open up as far as I want.
The top mount will have several places to mount it.
Laying that out now.











My band saw blade is way dull so need to get another before I can finish it.
And that is where I am with the top mount, the bottom mount will have a slide and a way to lock it when I get into the position that I want.
The actuator has an automatic limit switch built in but if it does not reach it then you can burn it up so that is why it needs to be able to be adjustable.
Oh yea that hole in the bottom.



Spread on a little hole-be-gone.
Anyway that is where I am at, more later.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2017, 04:40:58 AM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #60 on: October 22, 2017, 03:34:25 PM »
Well I went to Lowes and they did not have my blade, out of stock so, Iím using my drill press with an end mill bit to take it down, the drill press works ok but you need to take it slow.











And there is your top mount with three attachment points.
And started on the bottom mount it will have a track and slide and a way to lock it when I get into the position that I want. It will be less machining but more complicated.
The actuator has an automatic limit switch built in but if it does not reach it then you can burn it up so that is why it needs to be able to be adjustable.
So,,,,,, to the scrap pile.





Rough it out.
The black line is where the slot will be for the track.



I used a hack saw to cut the slot, two cuts/blades wide it is very accurate.



I drilled it and tapped it for ľ 20 to lock it.



Then cut another slot for the actuator to sit in.
Drill the hole for the pin, not real sure what kind of pin I am going to use, I donít want a threaded bolt, it will work like a file to gouge out the eye hole in the end of the actuator.





And there is your bottom mount. I am only going to use about half the angle SS, it will be bolted to the bottom of the pack. This way to adjust the travel I will mount the top part, (three different positions to choose from) then close the lid and close the actuator and then just tighten up the bottom clamp. There will be a small hole just large enough to get my hand in to adjust the bottom mount and to unhook it if anything goes wrong.
I need to do more work to the bottom of the pack, it needs more sanding and another layer of glass, it will also have aluminum flat bar under where it bolts to the mount.
But,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Iím not real excited about grinding on the glass quite yet.
Anyway that is where I am at, more later when there is more.
« Last Edit: October 25, 2017, 03:11:04 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #61 on: October 27, 2017, 02:52:58 PM »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #62 on: October 27, 2017, 09:37:20 PM »
Awesome, just awesome!  Can't wait for more.

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #63 on: October 28, 2017, 12:08:35 PM »
Awesome, just awesome!  Can't wait for more.

Thanks evo, I think I can move the top of the actuator down to the bottom slot on the top mount, that would make the lid open a little faster it would also open the lid farther and it needs that, it would still take the same amount of time for total travel but would seem faster. It takes ten seconds to open, in all honesty I'm happy with that, I'm not real sure how practical it is.
They make this actuator (actuonix from the robot shop, cost about seventy bucks) in three different gear ratios, and different lengths, fast that lift about five pounds; takes about five seconds; medium speed 60-1 gear ratio, lifts about fifteen (this is what I have) and is slower about ten seconds and then the 100-1 very slow that opens about 45 pounds. I could use a more powerful faster actuator but they are too big and too heavy to be practical.
The wireless controller (e-bay cost about nineteen) has several different settings on it, this is push and hold and that is kind of a pain, there is a push let go setting, the controller sends power to the actuator until it reaches it limit switch. This is the setting that I will use once I get everything adjusted the way I want it, that way I click the button once while I am taking off my helmet and it opens. However until I get everything finalized I donít want to burn up my actuator.
I will also have a hidden switch under the pack so that I donít have to carry the key fob.
Letís talk about the practical side of this, first it takes the place of a lock, then it takes the place of a rod/cable to limit the opening of the lid.

Ok let me get caught up on what been done.



I want some aluminum flat bar (1/8Ē) where the mount goes to help distribute the weight so that the fiberglass does not crack at the bolt holes, fiberglass does not like things bolted to it, even with fender washers.



I bolted those down then used a thin layer of glass to hold them in place, pull out the bolts and then.



Glass over everything putting the reinforcing flat bar inside the glass.

Here is how the top mount for the actuator is epoxied on.



Yea everything needs cleaned up, including my shop:-)You can see how I can move the actuator down to make it open faster and farther by moving it down, although it might strain the actuator. I will play around with this later.



And an idea where the bottom mount goes.



Drill some holes for a ANOTHER access hole.



The paint stick is just for a temp shim.
And there is your bottom actuator mount.

I also epoxied in the tubes for my LEDs



Grind them flat.



A little body filler and almost ready for paint.



I shot some primer on it and it is amazing what it shows up.
Look at the hole second to the end on the right.



When is the best time to fix something.



Move it where it should be.



And epoxy a new one in.
I was hoping to get some color on this weekend, need more sanding so,,,,,,,that is where I am at, more when there is more.
« Last Edit: October 28, 2017, 01:11:21 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #64 on: October 29, 2017, 03:11:54 PM »
And Base coat is on. :baby:



Clearcoat tomorrow night.
And that is where I am at, more when there is more.

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #65 on: October 31, 2017, 03:32:16 PM »
And clear coat is on, kind of.
So,,,,,,,,,, when you see me start the sentence with this you know there is a story. I started shooting my clear and it was a little cool and spiting just a little, so I grabbed my thinner and added just a tad, cranked up the pressure some, and shot the first coat and it was perfect. I let it flash got ready for the second coat, cleared my gun, it was fine and then ran the gun down the side if the pack.
Iíve never seen a gun SPIT paint as much so fast in my life. Luckily I stopped checked the paint and it had jelled in the pot. Read the instructions on my thinner that I have used several time, and it was for acrylic enamel, well I am shooting urethane. I was able to clean the gun and get another two coats on, everyting dried just fine but of course the clear looks likeÖÖÖÖÖ..



So this is a sacrificial coat.
I always laugh when someone tells me they want to learn how to paint, I ask them if they hit there thumb with a hammer do you put the pain out of your mind and just keep hammering or do you throw the hammer across the room. If you have ever thrown a hammer in pain do not even attempt painting. It can be painful.
So you move on, get out the wet sand paper 320 and sand it flat. In all honesty I normally shoot the clear then color sand it to see how it looks and then go back and give it a second coat a week later, so this is not that unusual, I did want to be able to wet sand it with 1000, 1500 then buff it out and run it for a while, however it does not look that bad, will just run it for a while sanded, and reshoot it later or just go ahead and do the carbon fiber. 
 



You can see where I have burnt through with the coarse paper in several places, the black sure shows up where your body work needs work.
I am going to start wiring up the connector on my bike for the electronics, need to do something besides body/paint work for a while.
More when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #66 on: November 14, 2017, 04:47:22 PM »
Yes I have taken a short break.
Well I was planning out where to put the hand holds and have room for the cup holder and mentioned it to Mrs. Cruiser, and she said why do I need hand holds, I have you to hold on to, so no hand holds, at least for now.
So here is where I am going to put the drink holder.
My wifeís favorite coffee mug.



First I laid it out on a 1/4 inch plate of aluminum and felt that it did not need to be that thick and way to hard to bend, so

I found a piece 3/16 instead (on the right)



While it is still big cut out the hole for the cup.
Man I hate cutting aluminum with that jig saw, especially cutting circles.



Then use the band saw.







I did draw a little blood, the sander grabbed my piece and whipped it around, I know not to work with metal without gloves but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it spun around for about thirty seconds, like to scared me to death I could just see that part flying off and hitting me, finally got it unplugged. then jumped right back on it (with some gloves on) :slap:





And there it is roughed out, it needs to go on a diet, and get beveled, and bent, I bet you wonder how I am going to bend this, yea me too, but you get the idea where I am going with this.
More later when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #67 on: November 17, 2017, 06:33:24 PM »
So, square is boring.



Letís add some holes.



And a few more holes.





And now time to bend it.



This is two inch channel iron and a one inch pipe.



In my press.



It is important to keep the piece square, that is the job of the lines on the tape, the tape also keeps the aluminum form getting gouged really bad, you need to expect some scrapes but want to minimize them. Aluminum is not as forgiving as steel when it comes to bending.  It is important that you do not bend the aluminum at too sharp a radius; you could bend it in the vise but take a chance of surface cracks. The one inch bar keeps this from happening, and I feel it adds interest to the piece.



And there are your bends, you can see the bends are not 90 degrees yet, the press will only take them so far. Tomorrow I will finish the bends with a big hammer and figure out how I want to mount it.



More when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #68 on: November 18, 2017, 05:19:40 AM »
 :up:
My Ride: Road King

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #69 on: November 20, 2017, 12:56:26 PM »
A few real quick photos, I pretty much finished the drink holder.





I have not mounted it yet because I am not sure of where I want to mount it yet, I ordered an SS insulated cup that fits it better, the one that I have is too tall, the shortest that I could find is seven inches tall and mounted up front it would be close to hitting Mrs. Cruiserís leg.



Back further I would have to do some work on the inside of the arms on the pack but I kind of like it there. I am going to make it removable and need to order some shoulder bolts and cut some groves in the cup holder for them to attach. If I mount it there then on the other side of the pack where the speakers would have gone I will cut a hole for a small glove box.

I started the pad for the pack, I did not like the direction that I was going with all the small pieces that I was going to cover and decided to make a cover that will just snap on. It might just be temporary until I can come up with something better. The lack of a pad is keeping me from using it other than for solo use.
I have to tell you that I am stretching my ability to the limit starting the upholstery work, probably why I have put it off. You think that you know how to do upholstery work until you start doing it.
I am not going to do a lot of narrative because I do not want anyone confusing me for someone who knows what they are doing.
But here goes.



Iím using the old pad cover as a size pattern.







You want to overlay the two pieces by a quarter inch or the amount that your seam will be from the edged when sewn together.



Then transfer to your material for the other side. The pad will be like a pillow and have a front and back so need two of each, front back and both arms front and back.



And there are your pieces. More when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #70 on: November 25, 2017, 09:02:08 AM »
Man this is hard, not easy at all.
I started sewing everything together.



The sewing machine is working great, it has not missed a stitch, the clutching motor takes a little getting used to, remember me saying the motor spins at full rpm and you slip the clutch to get it started and let it slip in order to sew real slow. Itís like having your Harley revved up to 5k and slipping the clutch to start and stop and ride at five mile per hour and trying to juggle at the same time keeping the both pieces of the material straight and lined up with the foot at the same time.


It did not fit the rounded area very will so adding a extra panel in the middle.





The curved line is the cut line.






And you have to do this times 2.






I need the straps that I will use for the snaps to attach the pad, you do not cut nylon straps you melt them; this is a 1 1/8 socket and a soldering iron. I need at least ten of these.
Next is putting the two together. The seat will be a pleasure to do compared to the pad, simply because of the shape and not needing to have a front and back.
More when there is more.
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Offline crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #71 on: November 26, 2017, 05:34:40 AM »
What material are you using? I've wanted to work on a seat for a while and looking at "bonded" leather. I too am not an upholstery guy but have done it before using vinyl. I don't want vinyl or Naugahyde, I want leather .... But that's what I'm finding ( the bonded stuff) and I wondered if you have heard of it or used it?
Crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #72 on: November 26, 2017, 07:03:47 AM »
What material are you using? I've wanted to work on a seat for a while and looking at "bonded" leather. I too am not an upholstery guy but have done it before using vinyl. I don't want vinyl or Naugahyde, I want leather .... But that's what I'm finding ( the bonded stuff) and I wondered if you have heard of it or used it?

Crock, I am using naugahyde, because I live in Florida, and leather is not practical because of the mold. Bonded leather is ground up leather glued to a fabric. I have never used it but they say it has disadvantage as well as advantages. You can not beat real leather for looks wear ability and ease of working. Plus it's real and I love real stuff. I get mine at a local leather shop, used to be a tandy and on eBay. Search for upholstery leather, get it in the color that you want unless you want to stamp a pattern in it, then get tooling leather. Tooling leather is thicker and you work it differently than thinner leather. More like you would work wood instead of fabric.
What are you thinking of doing? I have done several seats and glad to give advice.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #73 on: November 27, 2017, 06:39:07 AM »
I have a Mustang seat that I love ( I call it my shovel strato lounger ) that has developed a small tear at a button. I picked up a drag specialties seat at a swap meet thinking " Hey that looks like my Mustang" which it does kinda but is in no way comfortable. I want to take apart the Drag seat and see if I can fix it and reupholster it using the original cover as a guide and if I can and it looks OK then try to reupholster the mustang seat again using the original cover as a guide
Crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #74 on: November 27, 2017, 03:41:50 PM »
I have a Mustang seat that I love ( I call it my shovel strato lounger ) that has developed a small tear at a button. I picked up a drag specialties seat at a swap meet thinking " Hey that looks like my Mustang" which it does kinda but is in no way comfortable. I want to take apart the Drag seat and see if I can fix it and reupholster it using the original cover as a guide and if I can and it looks OK then try to reupholster the mustang seat again using the original cover as a guide


Crock, I had a mustang on my Sportster they are nice seats, mine had a metal pan and that is a little tricky putting on the cover since you need to use rivets, not impossible but harder than using staples.
Using the extra seat to practice on is a real good idea, hope you have a decent sewing machine.  Like I have said many times coming up with a pattern is the hardest part, using your old cover will really help. Changing the pad is pretty simple you can add or grind down the old pad to fit you and make major improvements. Most of the time changing the pad does not change the pattern for the cover. Sometimes you will need to add a seam if you make the pad concave the cover will stretch like a drum and just not look right, so you make a seam and that will follow the contour better.
I am getting a little more done, taking my time on this so I donít make any mistakes.
I had to add another panel at the bottom so that the cover fit the contour better.



The new panel adds a little patern to the design. I thought about using some of the oxblood Naugahide but decided less is better, just to add interest with the panel/seams.





I want to show you the stick that I am using; it is called a single top stitch. This stick is the most common used on seats, almost all HD seats use this stitch. It is strong and decorative and easy to do. I wanted to use a double top stick or French stitch, that has a stitch on both sides of the seam but for that you need a backing liner and in the tight turns it is hard to do so maybe when I get a little more practice will try it.
Man I love this sewing machine, what a pleasure, makes my seams look good. I need to pay more attention to the bobbin, was sewing away on the top stick and finished. Went to check my bobbin and had five inches of thread left. If I had run out on the stitch it would have been a problem re starting.
Also love the Naugahide, the quality is unbeatable; it is twice the thickness of the HD pad that I took off. It looks so much like leather it is amazing.
I am getting supplies ready for the snaps making sure I have everything, and wanted to show something important. Snaps come in different colors sizes and lengths. Yes the size is different than the length.





Here are two the same size different lengths, you can see one is longer than the other.
The one on the left is for thicker leather/material, it is too thick for the strap that I am using and would be too long. It would bend as you are peening the shaft and cause the head to be offset from the snap.
Ask me how I learned this. You can get the different snaps from a leather shop or on line You can still get supplies from Tandy on line but most of the stores are closed. My Tandy is a local leather store so I go there.
Anyway that is where I am at, more when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #75 on: December 02, 2017, 08:50:15 AM »
I was able to get the front sewed to the back.



You can see the straps sticking out where the snaps will be mounted.



Here it is turned right side out, I have to say that seam was probably the hardest that I have ever done.



Here I am mounting the snaps.
This plastic goes under the snap to keep it from distorting.



And here is the set.



This is how you put the male snap on, the tape is so that you can see your mark, pull it down to where you want it then mark, then drill.



The male snap has a screw that holds it on.





This is with just one layer of pad and no bottom snaps yet.



Ready to try on the bike.



I felt that the padding needed more work to take out all the wrinkles, that and the inside layer is pulling the pad too tight, but my wife came along and said, gees I like how you ruched up the cover.
I thought that was another way to say that you screwed up, she said google it, soÖÖ here are the types of the images that came up.







I said yea I like that, when you put it that way, soooooo, for now the ruching stays.
It looks like an overstuffed chair, and yea I am starting to like it, I donít think it would be hard to change, but if the Mrs. likes it who am I to argue.
The cover still needs a bottom skirt but that can wait.
I was able to get another base coat on and several coats of clear.



It looks real good; I would give myself a b+ since Iím spraying in an open air shop. I did get one run but it will sand out in the color sand.
Iím letting the paint dry as I write this, Iím going to start on the seat, I am starting to enjoy the upholstery work.
More when there is more.

« Last Edit: December 21, 2017, 10:10:52 AM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #76 on: December 03, 2017, 05:23:28 AM »
Looks like a great job to me.  :up: :up:
My Ride: Road King

Offline Hossamania

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #77 on: December 03, 2017, 08:48:26 AM »
I heard an upholstery guy say he likes working on cars, but didn't like getting greasy, so that's how he ended doing the upholstery.
You're work is looking really good.
My boss always says mean things to me,
like, "You're late."

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #78 on: December 11, 2017, 04:52:06 PM »
I heard an upholstery guy say he likes working on cars, but didn't like getting greasy, so that's how he ended doing the upholstery.
You're work is looking really good.
Looks like a great job to me.  :up: :up:


Thanks guys, Well old man winter finally showed up here in North Fl, nights in the 30 days in the fifties, short daylight hours so hard to get out to my open air shop.
So, first a better shot of the paint.



And I ask Mrs. Cruiser if she thought it should be covered in Carbon Fiber, and she just paused, then she paused, then just smiled said ďI like the black.Ē And in all honesty the black does look good. I think most people donít even understand the CF, so might end up with black saddlebags again with a black tour pack.
Iím coming along on the seat, I had Mrs C sit on the Corbin/FLH seat, she really likes it, she says that she has more room than either of the other seats, looks like the placement of the back rest and the seat are right where she like it. It is very comfortable for me also, I have long legs and it does not cramp me at all.
So time to start gluing the FLH pad onto the Corbin pan.



Itís important to have reference marks.



Iím using spray contact glue and brush on contact to glue the pads together and onto the Corbin pad.



There was a gap between the two and the passenger pad was higher so that needed to be filled.



You have to let that dry real good then grind it down.



This gives me a short back rest, this will be my new touring seat so will be appreciated.



Cut off the nose where it went over the tank on the FLH.



And there is your seat ready for upholstery.

I want to show one thing.

 

That little debit  a the back of the seat comes standard on any FLH seat, not all seats have it, the Corbin did not, my Softail did not, that is a relief for your Coccyx.
No I am not making that up, itís for your tail bone in case it has ever been broken it can cause pain if not there.
I broke mine when I was a kid showing off  for a girl by ridding a mechanical bull at a bar, needless to say I had consumed way too much of the establishment product before riding said bull. That was before Mrs. Cruiser so letís keep that to ourselves.
So I have to do that on all my seats, yea I know way to much information.
Anyway more when there is more.


« Last Edit: December 21, 2017, 09:14:05 AM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #79 on: December 16, 2017, 07:18:08 PM »
Iím moving along, slowly, gees this is much harder than I expected, the fact that the driverís seat is connected to the passengers seat is the problem. You have so many different angles, so many dips plus it is such a big area to deal with. I thought the seat was going to be easy, I was wrong.
Iím laying out the cover, in areas where there is a recess you need to treat the material more like wood to get it to fit right, seams in the deepest area so that you can give extra material there.



Then measure and add a couple of inches, (somehow things tend to shrink) lay it out upside down and trim. You can see the piece that I have my hand on is cut with a bow to fit the back.



Then you overlay the two plus the width of the seam and mark the part on the back rest.



Stitch them together and get ready for the next piece.









Ready for my side pattern, using an old towel.



Transfer your pattern.








Ok another disclaimer, do not confuse me with someone how knows what they are doing, I am making this up as I go.

In order to mark where you want to make the final cut before attaching the sides, I turn the cover over and mark the back +1/2 this give me the material extra to sew the two pieces together.
And you do the same thing with the sides, mark where they line up and sew them together.



And there is your cover, it will be interesting to see how it looks when it is stretched onto the pan, I think I am pretty close and things will fit pretty good, will see later.
I might have to change my padding in some places but we will see.
Iím not sure if I am going to put the cover on yet, I was not going to put in a seat heater but ran across something real cool, or actually hot, carbon fiber heat tape. Iíve used heat wire before in several of my projects, heated grips heated coat, but this stuff really looks cool, er hot. It comes in different widths and is carbon fiber impregnated with a electrical conductor. Nice thing is that it is flat, and being 1 3/4 wide will make it a natural for under the cover. Only problem, the only place I can find it comes from Russia, yea the country and it takes about two months to get it. Vladimir Lopatin who sell the tape emailed and said that it has been Released from Russian Federation, passed customs, So,,,,,,,,, they are talking end of this month and I order it a month ago. Iíve never bought anything from our iron curtain friends, so we will see.
 I donít know if I am going to wait for it or pull the cover off later.
Think I might jump back on the paint, or mount, or cup holder, gees all these decisions.
Man I hate these short days only 4 more days to winter solstices, canít wait.
More when there is more.
« Last Edit: December 16, 2017, 07:27:07 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Hossamania

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #80 on: December 17, 2017, 11:00:31 AM »
Do you think that seam running across the passenger pad is going to be a comfort issue? I see it becoming a point of "burn".
My boss always says mean things to me,
like, "You're late."

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #81 on: December 17, 2017, 12:14:15 PM »
What sewing machine you using, any pics of setup?

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #82 on: December 17, 2017, 03:45:14 PM »
Do you think that seam running across the passenger pad is going to be a comfort issue? I see it becoming a point of "burn".
Hoss, good eye, yea I am very concerned about that, and don't know how it happened, I was planning on putting it back farther, and, gees look a squirrel.
I'm going to cut a grove in the pad under it and hope that takes care of it. I'm learning as I go things that are so obvious in hind site are hard to see in the planning stage.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #83 on: December 17, 2017, 03:45:56 PM »
What sewing machine you using, any pics of setup?

Post #33
Singer 241-12

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #84 on: December 17, 2017, 03:49:11 PM »
What sewing machine you using, any pics of setup?

Post #33
Singer 241-12

Thanks 98, yea love this sewing machine, it has not missed a stitch, sure makes doing something like this much easier.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #85 on: December 17, 2017, 04:06:27 PM »
Missed that wasn't following thanks, nice setup. Looks like a reasonable price machine, I want one :).

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #86 on: December 17, 2017, 05:27:49 PM »
Missed that wasn't following thanks, nice setup. Looks like a reasonable price machine, I want one :).
They made this model in 11, 12 and 13, the 13 being the heavest duty, good for heavy leather. My 12 is medium, and fine for what I need. I had to make a few changes, it was set up for dress making. It has a oil resivor under and is self oiling. It was designed to run all day long at top speed. Try doing that with a new one with plastic gears.
Once I got it timed right it has never missed​ a stitch.
The 12 is the most common and you can find them for about 100-200 pretty common.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #87 on: December 17, 2017, 07:38:54 PM »
Thanks for the hands on knowledge.

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #88 on: December 18, 2017, 09:07:55 AM »
Wow, I realize that the $ spent for my Mustang seat is worth it.  Don't sell yourself short though, you have some good seatmaking skills.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #89 on: December 19, 2017, 04:23:57 PM »
Wow, I realize that the $ spent for my Mustang seat is worth it.  Don't sell yourself short though, you have some good seatmaking skills.
Yea and if you consider what everything cost, let see, Corbin pan, $100-150 (don't remember exact), FLH pad $50, extra pad, $18, two yards of Naugahyde, $60, I'm not going to consider the glue that I had, the $100 sewing machine, all the upgrades to it, the tread that I had to buy,,,,,,,,yea custom is not cheap.

Thanks for the hands on knowledge.
:up:

Oh yea, I added a pole to help decide carbon fiber or black on the tour pack and saddle bags. Vote early and often.
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Offline Breeze

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #90 on: December 20, 2017, 04:22:01 AM »
Since you didn't leave a "comment" section on your poll (smart move), I'll add my comment here.
I don't care what you do, just keep coming up with projects and photo/documenting them on the forum.  :up:
I think I'll just stay home today, it looks too peoplely out there.

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #91 on: December 24, 2017, 01:59:57 PM »
So I have made a paint decision, black, everything, yea even the bags.  I might add a second color later, maybe some burgundy scallops or maybe a dark green and charcoal pin stripes, but for now black.
I donít think most people understand the carbon fiber and with so many wraps, dips I think the fad is over.
And in all honesty I loved the bags in black.
So I am moving on, in one way it is a lot less work, covering the pack with carbon is a lot of time, work and expense, however so it the black paint, it has to be perfect.
Black paint shows every flaw, so I need to do another sanding, and another coat of clear, but before I can do that I need to finish the bottom and do the inside. I have to turn the pack upside down to do these and donít want to do that after the final paint.
I also did not like the very front under where the passenger pad is, if you remember I did not cut out the whole front but left the bottom where it is flat.



Even though it is going to be covered, it just does not make since, also since I have been running the pack I have been putting my helmet in it and if the helmet is not in just the right spot the lid will not shut. Moving the back rest forward a inch and a half will let the helmet fit under the top more and let the lit shut. It will also give me a lot more room, as the sides will be rounded more.
SoÖ.









FYI this change cost me another ten for the sign and forty for another gallon of glass resin. Custom is not cheap.



You can see how much the front has been moved up.





And I am working on the bottom also; it does not need a ton of work. The bottom turned out flatter than I had planned, I think while I was doing so much filling the pack was sitting on the bottom and when I glassed it that it made it flat. This is also why my helmet did not fit the way that I thought.
Moving the front will cure this, it is a lot of extra work, but remember now is the time to change things that you do not like the longer you wait the harder it is.
More when there is more.


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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #92 on: January 07, 2018, 03:43:31 PM »
I have not gotten a lot done, it has been cold, not complaining for the sake of those up north who have it worse than us, but itís been 40-25 for the last week. Not good weather for working in an open air shop.
I finished up the new front, under the back rest.

 

A little Bondo.



I am using a different filler, this is a polyester glazing, it is two part and is much smoother than normal body filler and easer to sand. It is for a final fill, not intended for anything to thick.
We used to use a thick lacquer glazing to do the same thing but it had a tendency to shrink and crack with time.


You work it just like Bondo, sanding off almost all of it leaving just the parts filling the low spots.



I also did the bottom. I did not get a photo of the paint afterwards, but you get the idea.



I also shot the inside with some black rattle can Rustolium. (The flash shows a light spot but its all black) Iím not too concerned with the finish, it is going to be covered with some felt but want it cleaned up some. I still need a lid for the hole.
In all honesty you can not tell any difference in the look of the pack with this change except the helmets fit better inside, but I am glad that I made the change, to me it made since.
I gave the outside a quick color sanding and a quick buff to get rid of the runs and to clean it up a little. The photos donít do it justice so not going to post them will try to get better photos later. And this is not the last coat of paint soÖÖ
I have decided to change colors I am going to a black base with silver metallic, so it looks like dark charcoal. This is going to be a little more of a challenge, I am just a hobbyist painter and metallic can be trying.




I stuck on the name plate, I really like it, adds a lot of class and interest to the pack. It is just stuck on with some double face tape so can be removed for the final paint.
I am going to run the pack for a while, I am going to start getting the front fender ready for paint, then the bags.
I will also get back on the seat now that the weather is looking better. My heat tape came in for the seat so interested in seeing how that works.
More later when there is more.
Steve
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #93 on: January 08, 2018, 09:04:10 AM »
 :up: :up:
My Ride: Road King

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #94 on: January 21, 2018, 05:47:08 PM »
Well it has been too cold to work on paint, especially wet sanding so finally the Florida whether has shown up again. I picked up my new color, metallic charcoal, Iím going to start on my front fender to test the color out.

This fender was a project, been maybe six seven years ago, here is how it started out, an FLH eBay banged up special.



I straightened up the front and added the tail from a rear fender.





Then added a ridge up the back to match the rear fender. Of course I welded up all the holes, got rid of all the rivits.

I ran it for several years and I banged it up pretty bad when I hit a deer a couple of years ago and started to repainted it, as you can see the paint is not perfect,  then bumped my gate before the paint was done about a year ago and have been ignoring it. So now is the time to redo it.





Grind off the cracked paint and filler.



Hammer and dolly to get it straight, it had spread some so you just pull it in by laying it flat and pushing down on it.



I need another sanding block.



New body filler on all the damaged areas.



Then sand it smooth.



Prime it with the high build primer.



And then you start your final wet sanding, here with 320 wet. There are a few real small spots that need the finish filler another sanding and spot shot with primer in my air brush, then ready for paint.
The weather has been high of 70 again so I hope to get it in charcoal sometime this week.

More later when there is more.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2018, 06:01:47 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #95 on: January 29, 2018, 07:04:47 PM »
Well I got the front fender painted, the paint turned out really nice, I love the color, however,,,, not on my bike. It is just not dark/black enough, my wife said not sinister enough. So I am going to try a metallic black.
A couple of quick.





Iím thinking of a different style wheel, not sure what I want yet, something in a 19 or 21, nothing too tall.
I need to make a trip to the paint store, again. More when there is more, Steve.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #96 on: January 30, 2018, 07:44:02 AM »
The paint does look good, but you're right, not sinister enough! Only two colors in the world, Black and Chrome.
My boss always says mean things to me,
like, "You're late."

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #97 on: February 01, 2018, 03:44:56 PM »
The paint does look good, but you're right, not sinister enough! Only two colors in the world, Black and Chrome.

Hey Hoss, is this sinister enough?



Carbon flash metallic, it's a Corvette color. I don't know how metallic it is, I might have to add some black flake or pearl to get the effect that I want, will see.
I'm also tempted to go two colors, leave some charcoal on the bottom with a burgundy stripe.  Hmm.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #98 on: February 01, 2018, 07:37:04 PM »
It's getting there... ( :wink: ) Looks like nice black. I like the idea of leaving some charcoal for accent with the burgundy stripe, definitely classic and complimentary colors.
It's fun watching you keep at it, looking good.
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like, "You're late."

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #99 on: February 10, 2018, 01:12:19 PM »
I was able to get the tour pack painted, love the color carbon flash. It looks black until the sun hits it.





It is a real rich color, rich meaning not normal. It has several colors to make up the black instead of just a black pigment. Then it has black flakes and silver metal flakes to give it the metallic look.
A big difference from the vivid black Harley paint.





The photos do not do it justice, Iím in the process of color sanding it and rubbing it out and about half done. This is very time consuming I have spent probably six hours so far and not near done. You can still places that need to be gone over to get rid of the orange peel and to get the surface perfectly flat.
I bought a E-bay special, slid down the road gas tank, I need to go to Daytona to pick it up.
I donít use any of my original parts to do custom work on. I put them on a shelf in case I sell the bike, or ever want to go back to a Fatboy.
I have a perfect 01 sitting on my shelf.
I am going to use the Charcoal metallic with the carbon flash and use two colors with a burgundy pin stripe but havenít decided on a pattern yet.
Anyone with suggestions I listening.
More later when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #100 on: February 10, 2018, 05:37:07 PM »
Nice work.   :up: :up:

I can't begin to imagine the hours you put into it.  But when somebody says to you; "where did you get that"?  You can proudly say "I made it"!
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