Author Topic: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail  (Read 2914 times)

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Offline crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #25 on: July 25, 2017, 04:38:44 AM »
Tour Pac looks great. How in the world did you find that seat pad on e bay?
Crock

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #26 on: July 25, 2017, 06:40:25 PM »
Tour Pac looks great. How in the world did you find that seat pad on e bay?
Crock, thanks that seat pad was a "Slide down the road special on Ebay" It was a make offer, so I told the guy to cut off the cover, keep or sell the seat pan and just send me the pad to save shipping. I got it pretty cheap.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #27 on: July 25, 2017, 06:51:50 PM »
Looking good, you've been busy!
I don't think the box will look quite as wide with a body on the bike.
Good luck with the next steps.

Hey Hoss, thanks, I've decided to chop the sides off and narrow it. if you look at a stock pack on a FLH the bags are wider than the tour pack, on my bike the bags are very narrow and that is what look so funny with the pack being stock width.
I looked at a lot of chopped packs on the net and all were stock width so I never thought it would be a problem, that is why I did not narrow it before.
I think this is my best option, although the cut would be next to the edge, 1 3/4 in the back and half inch in the front, also think if I do it that I will round the top edge instead of the sharp edge.
I havenít committed yet, want to be sure before I do.
Part of the bottom would have to be cut out so that I could access the inside it would be just a hole in the middle that would have a cover later, this would also be access for the actuator. More on this later.



This would make it three inches + narrower in the rear and an inch narrower in the front. It would keep my sides so less work than creating new sides. I thought about taking it out of the middle but that would take some out of the passenger compartment and donít want that. And I don't want to change the hinges.
The body work is coming along nice, the sides and top rear are almost done still more sanding to do.
The front has not been touched yet, that is a little headache area, but does not have to be perfect because it will be covered. I am saving this till last.
It wonít be long until I am ready so spray some primer/paint, I do think I am going to give it a base black and clear before covering it just to make sure it is straight and run if for a few to work out the bugs.



My locks came but I am not going to be able to use them.



Too much of the wood would have to be removed for them to work and this is a critical area for the mount and covering that area with carbon fiber is going to be hard enough.
I will have to figure out something else, probably just a j-hook made out of steel or aluminum in the back or something that screws in from the tail end under the bolts that hold the mount on.
It could be as simple as a nail in a tube that would slide forward under the bolt. I havenít gotten that far yet so will worry about that later.
My lineal actuator came in, it is going to work real well, nice size for what I want.



These come in different gear ratios, this is 63-1, the middle one for speed and weight, this one should take about eight seconds to open.
Itís going to be controlled by a wireless controller with a key fob, so just one click with the button and it opens-closes, more on that later.
Well that is where I am at, more later when there is more done.
« Last Edit: July 25, 2017, 06:56:11 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #28 on: July 26, 2017, 05:00:10 PM »
Ok committed, the hurricane strap will tie the side and lid side together to be worked as one piece.





This will also give me a chance to clean up the inside where all the glass work was done, although it is much better than I expected it to be.
This is all that was done tonight, and is enough for one night.
More when I get more.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #29 on: July 28, 2017, 05:55:11 PM »
I am taking out an inch and three quarters in the back and half an inch in the front, this will cure two problems that I did not like first need to be narrower in the back but I did not like how fat the speaker arm rest were. I am not sure if the speakers will still fit, but will change the location if they donít.



Here is how it lines up.



Before I go any farther I need a access hole in the bottom to be able to glass together the side to the body especially where the lid is.



I need temporary metal straps to hold the side in place, it is important to line up the seam in the lid, I donít want to change that so on the top/front and in the back it needs to line up, if you donít change how the lid opens it will save a lot of work.
It also needs to line up in the front so that both sides match up.



And you can see what it is going to look like.



Then you start patching it together first inside with a single layer then start filling the gap on the outside.



Then you can start taking off your straps and open the lid for access to the inside where you continue layering the glass attaching the side.



And here you are.



I still need to continue the glass work on this side that will take most of the day, then start on the other side. The sectioning is a considerable amount of work for such a minor defect but I like where it is going. Better to fix it now than regret it latter. It has the side effect of making the pack look longer and streamline, and sure it will look better on the bike.
I need to round the rear corner, will fill it with glass on the inside and then grind it down.
I have decided to leave the top side edges fairly square, I might change my mind later.
More when I get more done.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2017, 05:59:37 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #30 on: July 30, 2017, 07:04:39 PM »
Side two is done.





I heard Steve Moal of Moal Coachworks when ask if they ever made two cars the same, he said ďNo it is hard enough to make both sides of one car look the same.Ē And that is true, first side is easy second side you spend more time measuring and checking than anything else.



I still have a little left on the bottom of the base but it is ready for final body work, the top still needs some work.



The corner needs to be finished up and more layers underneath and in front, then the grinding to finish it up, but it should not be a major thing.
You can see how the corners did not line up when the sectioned piece was taken out and how it is going to be rounded when done.
I like the final shape, it was a ton of work to do this mod but was well worth it.





Tomorrow I need to run to the automotive paint store and pick up some primer, need to redo the body work that was done and flip my work station over again to start the final body work,,, again.
More when there is more.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #31 on: August 04, 2017, 02:57:16 PM »
Ok a quick update, there is not a lot to show, in all honesty could show the same photos from two weeks ago and not tell the difference. What has it been one week to section the pack? I have most of the new body work done, a new guide coat and lid refitted. I had to add a layer of glass to the inside of one side , the lid spread a little, but was easy fix. Then grind down the outside some.



A little cleaning up of the inside lip.



I am using the same body filler with the resin to make it harder than filler, also used it for fitting the lid gap.



I picked up some primer, and should have some on this weekend. It is pretty straight, and anything left will be taken care of sanding the primer coat.
Glass is a little harder to get straight than metal it has a tendency to want to wave on you when you sand, you sand in valleys. These are fairly short body panels so not to bad. This is where the guide coat comes in and keeping the filler and surrounding area equally hard so that everything sands even.
Ok since that was written, Iím in primer, be it probably premature.





This really shows off where you need your body work and this coat for practical purposes is a sacrificial guide coat.
I still a lot more sanding and body work tomorrow, but think I will jump back on the mount.
Having serious thought about making the mount out of aluminum after all, think the black and chrome look might look better. Going to get the shape perfected then paint it black and then decide.
If going to aluminum it will be my pattern so not time wasted.
More when I get more done.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #32 on: August 04, 2017, 03:03:15 PM »
Oh yea wanted to mention this is a high build urethane primer, it has a hardener and when fresh is easy to sand, but when cured after a couple of days gets real hard, like a epoxy.
The high build helps fill sand scratches and works as a filler.

Also wanted to add a Side Note.
I was talking to a friend who used to do glass work when he was a kid, we were laughing about the itch and he said, Listerine.
Blow off, wash off, then put some Listerine in your hand and rub it on, I laughed then tried it, WOW is all that I can say, works great. Let it dry then wash if off because it dries sticky.
It must numb the skin, absolutely no itch, amazing.
End Side Note
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #33 on: September 04, 2017, 03:36:23 PM »
I wanted to post a little update, I am afraid that I have gotten side tracked on other projects, I finished the sign sample for the youth camp that I work part time for and made another a different color.



These will be directional signs and they will be stacked on top of each other maybe as many as six. And of course they will not say Harley Davidson, duh gees.
If I get the contract I am going to buy a CNC to do all the carving, Looking at the cnc shark hd4 extended bed. I would love to be able to make custom signs and even some custom aluminum pieces without all the hassle and time involved.

Also my lawn tractor compression releases went bad so it wonít start, so it is fix it or get something else, I had a chance to pick up a used 60" Dixie Chopper cheap with a thrown rod.  I swapped out the motor for a Briggs motor off an old mower that my son had. Figuring out the wiring was the hardest part. Man that thing is fast.
Anyway enough of my mumbling, back to the project, I was able to pick up a sewing machine it is not a walking foot, but is a commercial sewing machine. A singer 241-12, this is a mid to heavy weight machine. It will do what I want and was just a hundred bucks. I had to drive two hundred miles round trip to get it but well worth it.



Iíve been getting it in shape for upholstery work, if you have ever read my threads before, when I learn something I like to pass on what I have learned, so here goes. There are many different types of commercial sewing machines, commercial just means that it will run all day long at full speed and last forever, this means no plastic gears, and everything heavy duty.  This is a 241-12 singer, it has an oil reserve under the head and an oil pump that automatically oils the head as you sew, just like a Harley engine, needless to say they last a long time. This machine is a medium to heavy duty, so you can sew up to a quarter inch of fabric, even leather if it is set up right. I am going to be sewing up to four layers of vinyl so it will be fine. I looked up the date made and it is one month newer than me, pushing seventy. Like everything else that old you need to do a little work to get it working for the job you need it to do. This one was out of time. This is a pretty common problem on sewing machines, thread gets caught under the bed on the bobbin holder and the bobbin holder will slip on the main shaft, and the bobbin hook will not grab the thread. Also when you set up a machine for different thread thickness you need to use a needle that is bigger and the timing needs to be adjusted for that use.



You can see in the picture the needle in it down position, as it starts up the thread loosens up slightly, the bobbin case rotates and the hook grabs the thread, (not shown) and pulls it down and around the bobbin case locking the stick. If the hook is not timed and at the right distance away from the needle the stich is skipped or worse the needle can hit the bobbin case and break. You loosen the three screws on the bobbin case and rotate the hook so that it is at the right point and at the right distance from the needle.
On this machine the hook was way off, and had too much gap between the needle and the hook. I have been sewing all my life and never knew how to time a sewing machine, thanks you-tube. I also need to change the feeder foot, this machine was set up to sew thin fabric and has a fine feeder foot. The heavy foot is on the way. I have a sample of Naugahyde coming. I visited my local fabric store and the selection is pretty poor for seat covering.
Lets talk about needles, goodness never knew there were so many different types. First you have the style if needle, this is just to tell you what kind of machine that it fits, the length and shaft type, this takes a 16-257, try finding that at the local store. Girl just looked at me and smiled, and ask me what SHE was sewing. I looked at her and said ďThat is a sexist comment, why do you assume it is a woman doing the sewing.Ē We both laughed and then I had to give her an education on needles.
Anyway then you have the size of the needle, you have the metric standard and then you have the singer standard that has been around forever and singer will not change. I need a 20 singer, or 125 metric needle. That is a very thick needle for heavy thread. The needle has a grove on the side for the thread so the thick needle size is to accommodate the grove as well as being stronger for the fabric you are sewing. You donít want to use a real heavy thick needle of a thin piece of vinyl with thin thread and have a real big hole and small thread. The thread that I am going to use is v92 in black or red not sure which yet. That is like a button thread, very heavy, so need the big needle.
Then there are different types of needle points for different materials. You need a sharp point or diamond point for leather, vinylís and denim, you use a rounded point for woven fabrics. Are we all confused yet?
Anyway I picked up some standard singer size 18 needles to time the machine and they seem to work just fine, the correct needles are on the way.
Then you need to learn about thread tension, there is an adjustment on the top for the top thread and one on the bobbin for bottom thread tension. You want the threads pulling on the fabric and meeting in the middle of the material.
Of course the machine was not threaded right so that had to be learned. Every machine threads differently this on has it idiosyncrasies. Around the thread lead twice then three times through the next guide, feeds the needle from left to right, gees no wonder no one likes to sew. And letís not forget stitch length, on leather and vinyl you cannot have the stitches to close, if you do the leather can tear. Think of perforated paper in a note book that is deigned to tear out. This one is nice has a maximum of 5 1/2 stitches per inch, I think about seven is about right.
This machine has what is called a clutching motor. When you turn it on the 1/3 hp motor turn on and is always spinning, you push in the clutch to start sewing. It will sew 5000 stitches per minute so in order to go slow you need to slip the clutch. This is a bit touchy and takes a little getting used to. They make an upgraded servo motor that only spins when you press the (gees donít know what itís called, guess when you hit the throttle;-) and it runs much slower. For sewing fabric in a sweat shop these machines were running full speed, for leather heavy material you need to go slow so I might have to change the motor out.
Anyway long story short, I have it sewing really nice, and waiting on supplies, especially the sample material so that I can order that, oh yea, it is genuine Naugahyde, imitation elk pleather.
Gees wonder if anyone read all this. Letís throw in a photo at the last just for the people who just look at the photos.



More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2017, 03:46:59 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Hossamania

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #34 on: September 04, 2017, 03:58:52 PM »
I did read all of it, and was impressed with your knowledge and skill with another trade and machine. It sure opens more doors for your pursuits.
Good luck with the sewing, the sign machining, and the tour pack when you get back to it.
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like, "You're late."

Online packrat56

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #35 on: September 04, 2017, 04:50:53 PM »
    Nice read,, I have a singer 109W100 with the clutch and brake I need to set the
timing on it, sews good fast but not slow.
Now I know, why some animals eat their young.

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #36 on: September 26, 2017, 05:04:20 PM »
Ok, time for a update, I have gotten a little side tracked, finally got everything sorted out and had a visitor come through town in a bad mood, yea I live in north Florida, so had to board up, then sit in the dark for four days then clean up. Things are pretty much back to normal but we saw some eighty mile an hour winds from Erma, had several big trees go down, both of our drive ways were blocked by big trees. In all honesty glad itís done but watching the wind was awesome. We have large live oaks in our yard, and we live in the loft of our barn so we have a ring side view of trees dancing in the yard, trying to switch places. Until you see it in person it is hard to understand. Then we had major flooding at work, several of our buildings were flooded out by the Santa Fe River rising and back filling our spring. The main camp road was under six feet of water. Lucky none of the major building were affected. Then there are the sink holes, I spent all day filling sink holes with the back hoe, tractor.
Anyway enough of my personal stuff, I know you guys donít want to read this.
I am starting the upholstery work on the back rest. There are several ways that you can cover the back rest. At first I thought I would make a pad that would just use snap to attach.  But after thinking about it decided to make panels to cover then attach them to the pack. This will make a much cleaner installation it wonít have that pillow look.
So here is what they will look like.



Yea just a rough drawing of the seven different section, these will be made out of fiberglass with carbon fiber showing in between, they will be covered with padding then covered with Naugahide. The corners will be rounded to make the vinyl easier to wrap around. They will also have a piece of plywood in the middle to staple to, that I am going to make out of thin strips of wood glued together, kind of like this.




Yea I know you need to use your imagination.
The panels will have bolts attached so that they can be attached to the pack from the inside.
I got my Naugahide, I have two different colors black and I think they call it crimson, I would call it oxblood. I believe that the middle sections will be the crimson and the outside will be black, but that could change.




Photo does not show the color very will especially the black but then we all know what black looks like.
I really like the Naugahide, you can tell it is quality not the cheap stuff you see at Wally world fabric department. (it was about twenty bucks a yard+ shipping) I would prefer to use leather, it is easier to work with and in all honesty not much more expensive, but for my high humidity living in the sub tropics with mold to contend with, I donít want to have to take the tour pack and seat upstairs  to the air conditioning every time I am not using it.
Ok, just to be honest, it is disclaimer time, do not confuse me for someone who know what they are doing, I am making this up as I go. I have had this vision in my mind and this I how I am going to go about it.
Here is what the seven different panel will look like, they are fiberglass, and like I said there will be carbon fiber showing between the panels.



They will be removable, with pad glued to them and hidden bolts in the back holding them on.
I want to be able to wrap the cover around the panels and staple the cover to it so I have had this oak veneer for years and just going to waist. So I am going to form the veneer into plywood glued to the panels.















There is clear shipping tape to keep the glass and veneer from sticking to the tour pack. It is working very well, I am learning as I go, I have found that I canít do to many layers at a time and was thinning my glue too much.
It is very tedious, but like I said custom is not fast, and there are no instructions so you learn as you go.
I have one layer on the lower curved section, they are the hardest, and that is why I practiced on the middle first.
So far so good, but if these do not turn out perfect, they could wind up in the trash and go back to the snap on pad, it is going to be interesting to see how they turn out.
More when I get more done.
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Offline Breeze

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #37 on: September 27, 2017, 03:40:17 AM »
It's about time you got back on track with that project.  :kick:
I think I'll just stay home today, it looks too peoplely out there.

Offline Evo160K

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #38 on: September 28, 2017, 08:50:38 PM »
Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers,

Do you have these?

Parts list                http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS10/241-11,12&13.pdf
Service manual      http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERSERVICE3/241-Inst.pdf

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #39 on: September 30, 2017, 05:09:24 AM »
It's about time you got back on track with that project.  :kick:
:)
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #40 on: September 30, 2017, 05:12:53 AM »
Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers,

Do you have these?

Parts list                http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS10/241-11,12&13.pdf
Service manual      http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERSERVICE3/241-Inst.pdf

EVO, thanks I have the user manual, but not the parts. It's amazing how these old machines​ hold up.
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Offline Evo160K

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #41 on: September 30, 2017, 11:26:54 AM »
Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers,

Do you have these?

Parts list                http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS10/241-11,12&13.pdf
Service manual      http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERSERVICE3/241-Inst.pdf

EVO, thanks I have the user manual, but not the parts. It's amazing how these old machines​ hold up.


You're welcome and you're correct.  That type of quality, engineering and craftsmanship is amazing........and awe inspiring imho.

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #42 on: September 30, 2017, 01:44:45 PM »
I have started to work on the aluminum mount/base, I really enjoy working with aluminum, by far my favorite thing in any project. The upholstery work, fiberglass, even the paint, is interesting but does not beckons me to the shop like the aluminum does.
This is 6061 or t6. I like this particular aluminum because it is strong and holds a polish really good. Once every two years or so and it looks nice, a lot of guys call this aircraft aluminum, but of course it technically it is just used a lot in the aviation industry along with other different types of aluminum.




I have transferred my pattern to the plate, (it is 12Ē x 36Ē 1/4 inch plate with a brushed finish) and I want to add just a little to the front to catch this bolt with the bungee tie on it, the base will go under this bolt to give it a little extra strength.
(not sure why my photos are blurred)





And start cutting it out, I am cutting on the outside of the marker, leaving some to trim latter. The piece is too large to cut on my band saw so using the saber saw. The saber is actually more accurate than the band saw but a real pain to cut the t6, and a lot slower. It has a tendency to jump since the blade is going up and down instead of just down.
Here is a little tip, do not skimp on blades, harp blades save you a ton of time and frustration, when the blade gets dull, pull it out and put it in a vice and break off the top inch of the blade, then grind down the top teeth so the blade fits in the holder. You get a new sharp blade just a little shorter. Sometimes you can do this three times, sometimes two depending on your blade and saw.



And there is your piece roughed out. You can see at the bottom of the picture how I added and extra couple of inches for the front bolt. I still might trim the whole area above the mount pins but for now easer to leave and trim later than to trim now and not have enough. I think that makes since 




Iím using a hole saw to start my inside,,,,,, hole, design, relief, plate lightening feature, not sure what to call it .



And this is a spade bit, I like the spade because it is faster, but only up to about and inch and a quarter then the spade is too large for t6.





Iím using an old caliper to make a scribe mark for the hole pattern.



And then cut it out.



And there you go, side one roughed out ready to sand down to the line and cut the mount holes. This took about three hours taking my time, one run to the ace for blades. It still needs a lot of work to get it finished. This side will be used for a pattern for the other side and it will take half the time to make.
Later I will probably add some decretive holes along the top and down the back, different sizes small to large but that is later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2017, 01:48:48 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #43 on: September 30, 2017, 04:41:58 PM »
I was able to work on the mount for a couple of hours this afternoon, getting everything smoothed out and down to the line.




Iím using a variety of tools that I have acquired over the years, this is a stationary sanding station, it is very handy for flat areas.



This is a oscillating sander it goes up and down and around at the same time, very handy, when this was given to me for my birthday I thought I would never use it, but it is one of my favorite tools. Great for sanding up to the line.





This is a rasp in my drill press.



And there it is the edges sanded smooth.
Tomorrow I am going to start on the quick mount holes, the two front and back are simple, just a slot, the middle is the head ach, first the bracket is 1/8 inch wide and my plate is ľ so I need to narrow the plate where it goes in. To do that I am going to use my spade bit.



Here is where it line up, you can see the blue marking holes where it will be drilled part way through to narrow the plate.
I has to be L shaped so that it locks in.



Here is a better photo with the flash off so you can see where it needs to be narrowed with the spade bits.
Then after it is narrowed I will drill the holes out to 5/8 so that it slides up and over into a slot.
It will make more since when you see it done.
I had to drill the hole out on the new quick connect mount that I bought just for this project.
My old mounts are wore out the plastic is gone from 16 years, 190 thousand miles of riding.
I feel the new mount keep the pack/mount from rattling around when no one is sitting in the back putting on pressure.
Anyway more when I get more done.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #44 on: October 01, 2017, 03:55:42 PM »
I had a few hours this am and pm, moving along on the mount.
Here I am using the old mount as a pattern where I want to drill for the L shaped slot for the quick connect.



I have drilled three pilot holes where I where I need to plate thinner.
Then using the spade bit to shave it down.




Before I can use this bit I need to take off the cutters on the end, and make sure it is square and sharp.
I like the spades for aluminum because they are so easy to sharpen compared to hole saws.



Then drill out the holes to half inch.



Iím using a variety of tools to cut the slots.





Then the back mount.



Your tape measure does not lie.
Measure, scribe your mount, center punch, and drill.



Then cut out the slot.



And there are you two back mount slots, without the front mount.

   

This is just a rough draft of what I need.
Cut it out then keep grinding until it fits.
There is not as much metal under the front mount that I would have liked but this is just an extra support, and I will probably put the lock up here to help reinforce it.



And here you go side one done.



There are a few thing that I donít like and will change later like how the back lines up with the saddle bag mount but these thing can be changed later. I left it long in case I wanted the lock there.  I am not sure if I like the front being so fat, but want to leave it until I decide where the cup holder goes. In all honesty I donít need a cup holder just a place to stick a bottle of water for Mrs. Cruiser.
I am also thinking of hand grips under the seat, that is also why it is so fat under the seat.
Itís hard to tell without the pack on if the mount looks to heavy, but will decide later if it needs to go on a diet, maybe some holes as a weight reduction and style feature.
More later when I get more done.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #45 on: October 03, 2017, 04:34:45 PM »
A quick update, I took off about ĺ of on inch in the back of the mount to match up with the saddlebag hanger.



I cut it then sanded it, then used it for the pattern for the other side, here it is ready to cut out.



This time I am going to use my band saw, it is a little faster and since the piece is smaller easier to use.
You can see most of my tools are old rummage sale/hand me downs,  that I have acquired over the years.



I am just cutting up to the line, leaving plenty to trim.
Next I have clamped both together and I am using the first side as a pattern to follow using my router table and a mica flush cut trim bit.



A trim bit has a wheel either on the top or bottom so that it follow a pattern and makes a flush cut.





And there is your exact copy this second side took about two hours to make, a lot faster than the first and that includes the time to change the first side.
I did not cut out the center hole, or the L shaped middle slot for the quick connect, the slot needs to be thinned before cutting the slot, and after I do that then will use the router.
The center hole, I am not happy with it yet, and want to change it some before I waste time cutting it out on the second side.
Next up is making a brace to go between the two sides, but that is later.
More later when I get more done.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2017, 04:43:41 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #46 on: October 04, 2017, 03:50:21 PM »
I was able to get the L slot thinned and cut.



So now time to start on the cross brace.



This is Ĺ x 2Ē 6061 flat bar.



I have cut it down to 9 ľ then squared to ends with my stationary sander.
In order to measure the distance between the two mounts I cut a piece of wood first to make sure of the measument then transferred it to the t6




I want to give it a little diet, and add a design eliment, so.




Remember aluminum does not like square corners.



Then to the band saw, this thick aluminum does not cut very well with a jig saw, especially a piece this small.
Notice the water droplets on the piece, alumuinum like to stay cool with water to keep it from melting and sticking to the blade, it also works as a lubricant.



And there is your brace, still needs to be drilled and taped for the bolts, and needs a couple of hours with a rasp, also the edges will be beveled.
Power tools will not fit to well on this. I find it interesting that I love spending four/ five hours on a piece that no one else will even notice, but it is features like this that make all the difference.
And that is where I am at, more later when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #47 on: October 05, 2017, 05:13:31 AM »
Awesome.  Keep the pictures coming.  :up:
My Ride: Road King

Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #48 on: October 05, 2017, 04:17:10 PM »
Awesome.  Keep the pictures coming.  :up:


Thanks 2004, So I was able to do some more filing, and marked, center punched and drilled pilot holes for the bolt holes.



Then drill the 13/64 hole for the ľ 20 tap.



The zip tie is for the depth that I want, make sure to keep the flukes clean on your bit, you can gall your hole real easy by not pulling out the bit every once in a while. The deeper you go the more you want to clean it, here every quarter inch or so.
The paint brush works great for brushing out the chips, you also need to keep the hole lubricated with cutting oil.



I like to start my tap in the drill using just my hand to rotate it. Using the drill makes sure the tap is lined up with the hole.



Then use your tap handle. Remember to use cutting oil and keep your tap cleaned out. Also you do not want one continuous chip, go in a half a turn and out a quarter, when you back it out you will hear your chip break. This way you do not end up with a big spiral chip at the end of your blind hole or worse yet wound around your tap as you are pulling it out causing the tap to gall your new threads.



The last thing that I did was bevel the edges a little.



When I am done I will put a little more bevel on it, but for now this is fine. The reason for the bevel now is so that I do not have such a thick edge to file/sand, there is no use sanding a half inch thick piece of t6 when I can bevel it down to 3/8.
The brace it taking shape, I still have another couple of hours filing and sanding then a couple polishing it. But that is a no brainer so I enjoy that, it is starting to feel good in the hand. There is nothing more rewarding than a piece of aluminum that you create in your mind, and then make.
I might end up making another one so that there are two instead of just the one. I will determine that when I start bolting it together.
I donít want any side to side movement or worse yet to break the cross brace because it was not strong enough or gave it enough support.
Anyway that is where I am at more later when there is more.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2017, 04:24:44 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #49 on: October 06, 2017, 04:30:40 PM »
Iím getting ready to mount the pack, the back had to be trimmed about a quarter inch and the front just a shade to fit the bottom of the pack.
I also wanted to change the front just a little.





It stuck out too much in front of the pack.



Here is what I am thinking about the brace.



I ordered another piece of flat bar, this one 1/2x3Ē instead of the 2Ē to make a second brace, it will go farther up toward the front.
Now time to make the mount brackets.
This is 1 1/2"x2" angle, I am using my chop saw to cut them one inch long.





Drill a quarter inch hole.



Clean them up.



And there is your mount brackets, almost done.
I need to alter them some, when I started to put them on I donít like how big they are so I am going to cut the long side down to one inch making it a 1x1 Ĺ angle.
Also the chop saw did not do a very good job of making them square, so need to work on that. I want these mount brackets to be pretty uniform so that they can be interchnagle and not location specific.



And of cource I cant do anything the easy way, I want them mounted on the inside with the long part coming over the mount.
Kind of like this.



This way all you will see from the outside is a small button head. Of course I need to cut a slot so the angle set in it, I am going to do that tomorrow.
I am trying to get an idea how I want the lightening holes drilled, I am thinking between the mounts and braces, starting in the back about 3/8Ē then getting bigger as they go toward the front. Also a set going down to the quick connect point getting smaller as they go.
Anyway, I need to get all this mounted and the brace positioned before I can see what it looks like to make any decisions on that.
I had hoped to get some black and clear on the weekend, but,,,,,, something about a hurricane in the gulf, so going to be too humid to paint.
I am getting awful sick of the gray primer.
Thatís about it, more when I get more done.
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