Author Topic: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail  (Read 2914 times)

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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #50 on: October 08, 2017, 12:41:34 PM »
So like I said I did not like the brackets so big, so cut them down to 1x1 Ĺ



I got a new blade for the band saw, the band saw work so much better than the chop. Iíve marked my side rail mount and cutting the slots for the angles.





Clean them up with the Dremel.




Then the file, this angle has a radiuses inner side where the two sides come together, it makes the angle stronger, remember aluminum does not like square corners. You can get it without the radius but most come with it.
So you also need to file for the radius to clear.



When you take your time you can get your pieces to fit perfect, or at least perfect where the mother in law looks. :gob:



And only five more to go.



Here is what it looks like from inside where it will be hard to see.



These  will have button head bolts and acorn nuts so they will be part of the design. I was tempted to go with rivets but want to be able to take them apart to polish them in the future.



And that is what it will look like from the outside, of course the brace will be on the inside.
Here is Photoshop, where I think I will put the lightening holes.




Man Iím so rusty on Photoshop, this is just hacked together but you get the idea. The center hole needs to be changed and maybe some holes running down to the quick connect.
Well that is where I am at more later when there is more.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #51 on: October 08, 2017, 04:12:42 PM »
A couple of real quick.



I printed out some ďHolesĒ and glued them on for placement.
I need to get some spade bits in the size I want, so this is on back burner.



And on the bike, I need to make the second brace for underneath before I can drill the holes in the bottom of the pack to mount it, the plate should be here tomorrow.
Iím tired of smelling fiberglass, ground aluminum, tired of planning where things go, how much to cut, so looking forward to sniffing some paint fumes in the next couple of day. :missed: (In a good way) Going to start wet sanding the pack for preparation of paint.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #52 on: October 09, 2017, 04:45:06 AM »
You're in the home stretch now.  It is not easy to plan something like this.  H-D has a whole department of engineers to figure things out.  You are doing a marvelous job.  :up: :up:
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #53 on: October 09, 2017, 04:03:26 PM »
You're in the home stretch now.  It is not easy to plan something like this.  H-D has a whole department of engineers to figure things out.  You are doing a marvelous job.  :up: :up:


2004, thanks, Yea it can get complicated when you design as you go, things don't turn out like you see them in your head, and when you change one thing it changes something that you thought was done.
This is a real critical time, you are getting tired ready to move on and one mistake or one problem that you can't solve can keep the project on the bench,,,,,, forever.
Well I am wet sanding, actually done wet sanding.


   


Iíve sanded off probably 75% of the high build primer getting it smooth. I could use another primmer coat and wet sand but I am going to go ahead and prime it and paint it.
The imperfections are so small I think the last coat of primer and the clear coat color sand will take care of them.
I need to get some color on and use it. If it needs to be spot premiered and repaired I will do that when I do the bottom. Yea you forgot about the bottom and that hole that You cut didnít you Cruiser;-)
Anyway, (gees I say that a lot,) Iím going to spray some primer tomorrow, the weather looks good. Itís been 99% humidity and raining for the last few days so looking forward to some paint.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #54 on: October 13, 2017, 04:39:52 PM »
Well I changed my mind; I said I was going to concentrate on getting black on, after I sprayed on the primer it looked so good I decided to do a little more filling and getting the pack perfect before doing the color coat.





I need to sand that down, and then do a little more filling around the lid to fill in some gaps; anyway, I have jumped back on the mount.



This is the second brace that will go up toward the front.



I was able to get it pretty much done, holes drilled in the ends to mount, sanded pretty good, still needs some finish work.



Here is the side plate with final measurements, placement.



Center punch and drill.



Trial fit.








I was also able to drill out some of my holes, I think they call them speed holes, and finish my center hole, this is the second side clamped to the first using the router table trim bit trick.

The mount is very strong and fits very well, it pops right in place; it weighs in at five pounds so it still needs to go on a diet. I also need to cut down the weight of the pack itself, so I ordered an angle die grinder to grind out some of the inside.
I picked up a bunch of button head SS, and some SS acorn nuts to put everything together with. Iím going to try to get the last speed hole cut, but need a 1 ľ bit. Then I can mount the pack and see how everything lines up.
I still have a ton of stuff to do but that is where I am at, more when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #55 on: October 14, 2017, 02:57:26 PM »
I did a little filling around the lid; it had a few small gaps.



This is epoxy with some filler to make it thick, it holds up better than body filler and glass resin.



You tape off your lid so the filler does not stick, let it dry and then pop it open and sand.



I got all my holes drilled, and here I am beveling all my exposed edges.



I really like the 45% beveled edges instead of the rounded, it acts like a diamond cut and highlights the edges instead if blending.
They will be hit again later after all the edges get a good sanding, there are still some rough spots, but like I said before the bevel makes for less edge to sand.
When you polish the beveled edges you lose some of the sharpness, so you need to do a lot of sanding and keep the buffing to a minimum. Iíll explain the better later.



Here I am starting to clean up my stock, this is 220 on my da.






Then you move on to wet sanding in a straight pattern.



And here we are assembled, notice the 3/8 hole was too small for my wheeled bevel bit so will have to do that by hand later. There are still some spots that I donít like, and the front still needs the hand holds and the cup holder. I will also add some lightening holes in the front to pull everything together.



All that work to make the braces and you cannot even see them;-)







A blurry photo but you get the idea. More later when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #56 on: October 15, 2017, 09:34:48 AM »
A couple of real quick, and then I need to mow my yard.



Laying out to mount my mount on the tour pack, center line then measure out.



Position, drill your holes and bolt it on.
Here is a good example of no matter how much you plan everything out when you change one thing it changes something else that you did not think of. I was going to leave the hole in the middle of the bottom, and just make a lid for it.
Well you can see the braces are in the way I did not see this coming, so I am going to fill that hole and move the hole to the side under where the actuator goes. Duhhhh.



And here is a side by side of today and before the pack was narrowed.
Speaks for itself, fits the look of the bike much better. I did take it to town for a test run, even stopped to pick up some stuff, yea actually used it, holds a 12 pack of soda, and a can of Bondo, although I was carful that the can did not roll out of the hole in the bottom, need to take care of that;-)
Itís going to be handy stopping for lunch, a place for the helmets and taking some extra jackets along.
Oh yea Mrs Cruiser tried it, she like it.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #57 on: October 16, 2017, 09:41:33 AM »
Awesome work.  Thanks for the pics.
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #58 on: October 16, 2017, 06:25:00 PM »
Awesome work.  Thanks for the pics.

2004, thanks, I rode it to work this am, I wanted to see what it does on the wash board dirt road. It rattles a little bit on big bumps but not noticeable, I donít think it is a problem especially when I have Mrs. Cruiser holding it down, and the front lock should help.
I did not have a lot of time today, RL stuff to do. I want to get started on my electronics so was able to lay out where I want my LEDs.



I thought about putting them under the pack, kind of hidden but think it will add to the interest in the back.
The wiring is going to be a little complicated, I am going to need a box someplace to hold all the controls and a circuit board for the LEDs, I am thinking underneath.
I am not going to put the speakers in or the amplifier; I am getting concerned about the weight. The pack weighs in at about thirty pounds, not bad now, but in order to take it on and off, I need to keep it as light as possible.
More later
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #59 on: October 20, 2017, 04:01:07 PM »
Iím moving in several directions at the same time, time to drill some pilot holes





Then the 5/16 holes.



These are 6mm id, 8mm od carbon fiber tubes for the LEDs to sit in. Man this stuff is tough, when I say strong, it will hold me when suspended between two pieces of 2x4. And so light, like a straw you would get at McDonalds.
Anyway I am mumblings again.



Cut them to 1 ľ on the band saw, they cut pretty easy but you can tell that they are hard, about like cutting aluminum.



And insert them in your holes.
I am going to let them stick out until I epoxy them in, then they will be ground off flush with the rear of the pack. All you will see is a hole, you wonít even see the LEDs until they come on, they will be recessed about Ĺ and inch.
I also had a chance to start on the electronic actuator.




Here is a real quick video of how it works.
https://youtu.be/QvCpBi-MOTw


Trying to figure out where it should be mounted, In all honesty this is going to be a real challenge especially with the weight restrictions of the actuator.



Shut it is 8.25 open 14 so need it as straight up and down as possible, needs to be as far towards the front as possible and still open up as far as I want.
The top mount will have several places to mount it.
Laying that out now.











My band saw blade is way dull so need to get another before I can finish it.
And that is where I am with the top mount, the bottom mount will have a slide and a way to lock it when I get into the position that I want.
The actuator has an automatic limit switch built in but if it does not reach it then you can burn it up so that is why it needs to be able to be adjustable.
Oh yea that hole in the bottom.



Spread on a little hole-be-gone.
Anyway that is where I am at, more later.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2017, 04:40:58 AM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Offline Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #60 on: October 22, 2017, 03:34:25 PM »
Well I went to Lowes and they did not have my blade, out of stock so, Iím using my drill press with an end mill bit to take it down, the drill press works ok but you need to take it slow.











And there is your top mount with three attachment points.
And started on the bottom mount it will have a track and slide and a way to lock it when I get into the position that I want. It will be less machining but more complicated.
The actuator has an automatic limit switch built in but if it does not reach it then you can burn it up so that is why it needs to be able to be adjustable.
So,,,,,, to the scrap pile.





Rough it out.
The black line is where the slot will be for the track.



I used a hack saw to cut the slot, two cuts/blades wide it is very accurate.



I drilled it and tapped it for ľ 20 to lock it.



Then cut another slot for the actuator to sit in.
Drill the hole for the pin, not real sure what kind of pin I am going to use, I donít want a threaded bolt, it will work like a file to gouge out the eye hole in the end of the actuator.





And there is your bottom mount. I am only going to use about half the angle SS, it will be bolted to the bottom of the pack. This way to adjust the travel I will mount the top part, (three different positions to choose from) then close the lid and close the actuator and then just tighten up the bottom clamp. There will be a small hole just large enough to get my hand in to adjust the bottom mount and to unhook it if anything goes wrong.
I need to do more work to the bottom of the pack, it needs more sanding and another layer of glass, it will also have aluminum flat bar under where it bolts to the mount.
But,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Iím not real excited about grinding on the glass quite yet.
Anyway that is where I am at, more later when there is more.
« Last Edit: October 25, 2017, 03:11:04 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #61 on: October 27, 2017, 02:52:58 PM »
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Offline Evo160K

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #62 on: October 27, 2017, 09:37:20 PM »
Awesome, just awesome!  Can't wait for more.

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #63 on: October 28, 2017, 12:08:35 PM »
Awesome, just awesome!  Can't wait for more.

Thanks evo, I think I can move the top of the actuator down to the bottom slot on the top mount, that would make the lid open a little faster it would also open the lid farther and it needs that, it would still take the same amount of time for total travel but would seem faster. It takes ten seconds to open, in all honesty I'm happy with that, I'm not real sure how practical it is.
They make this actuator (actuonix from the robot shop, cost about seventy bucks) in three different gear ratios, and different lengths, fast that lift about five pounds; takes about five seconds; medium speed 60-1 gear ratio, lifts about fifteen (this is what I have) and is slower about ten seconds and then the 100-1 very slow that opens about 45 pounds. I could use a more powerful faster actuator but they are too big and too heavy to be practical.
The wireless controller (e-bay cost about nineteen) has several different settings on it, this is push and hold and that is kind of a pain, there is a push let go setting, the controller sends power to the actuator until it reaches it limit switch. This is the setting that I will use once I get everything adjusted the way I want it, that way I click the button once while I am taking off my helmet and it opens. However until I get everything finalized I donít want to burn up my actuator.
I will also have a hidden switch under the pack so that I donít have to carry the key fob.
Letís talk about the practical side of this, first it takes the place of a lock, then it takes the place of a rod/cable to limit the opening of the lid.

Ok let me get caught up on what been done.



I want some aluminum flat bar (1/8Ē) where the mount goes to help distribute the weight so that the fiberglass does not crack at the bolt holes, fiberglass does not like things bolted to it, even with fender washers.



I bolted those down then used a thin layer of glass to hold them in place, pull out the bolts and then.



Glass over everything putting the reinforcing flat bar inside the glass.

Here is how the top mount for the actuator is epoxied on.



Yea everything needs cleaned up, including my shop:-)You can see how I can move the actuator down to make it open faster and farther by moving it down, although it might strain the actuator. I will play around with this later.



And an idea where the bottom mount goes.



Drill some holes for a ANOTHER access hole.



The paint stick is just for a temp shim.
And there is your bottom actuator mount.

I also epoxied in the tubes for my LEDs



Grind them flat.



A little body filler and almost ready for paint.



I shot some primer on it and it is amazing what it shows up.
Look at the hole second to the end on the right.



When is the best time to fix something.



Move it where it should be.



And epoxy a new one in.
I was hoping to get some color on this weekend, need more sanding so,,,,,,,that is where I am at, more when there is more.
« Last Edit: October 28, 2017, 01:11:21 PM by Harley_Cruiser Rocker Lockers »
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #64 on: October 29, 2017, 03:11:54 PM »
And Base coat is on. :baby:



Clearcoat tomorrow night.
And that is where I am at, more when there is more.

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #65 on: October 31, 2017, 03:32:16 PM »
And clear coat is on, kind of.
So,,,,,,,,,, when you see me start the sentence with this you know there is a story. I started shooting my clear and it was a little cool and spiting just a little, so I grabbed my thinner and added just a tad, cranked up the pressure some, and shot the first coat and it was perfect. I let it flash got ready for the second coat, cleared my gun, it was fine and then ran the gun down the side if the pack.
Iíve never seen a gun SPIT paint as much so fast in my life. Luckily I stopped checked the paint and it had jelled in the pot. Read the instructions on my thinner that I have used several time, and it was for acrylic enamel, well I am shooting urethane. I was able to clean the gun and get another two coats on, everyting dried just fine but of course the clear looks likeÖÖÖÖÖ..



So this is a sacrificial coat.
I always laugh when someone tells me they want to learn how to paint, I ask them if they hit there thumb with a hammer do you put the pain out of your mind and just keep hammering or do you throw the hammer across the room. If you have ever thrown a hammer in pain do not even attempt painting. It can be painful.
So you move on, get out the wet sand paper 320 and sand it flat. In all honesty I normally shoot the clear then color sand it to see how it looks and then go back and give it a second coat a week later, so this is not that unusual, I did want to be able to wet sand it with 1000, 1500 then buff it out and run it for a while, however it does not look that bad, will just run it for a while sanded, and reshoot it later or just go ahead and do the carbon fiber. 
 



You can see where I have burnt through with the coarse paper in several places, the black sure shows up where your body work needs work.
I am going to start wiring up the connector on my bike for the electronics, need to do something besides body/paint work for a while.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #66 on: November 14, 2017, 04:47:22 PM »
Yes I have taken a short break.
Well I was planning out where to put the hand holds and have room for the cup holder and mentioned it to Mrs. Cruiser, and she said why do I need hand holds, I have you to hold on to, so no hand holds, at least for now.
So here is where I am going to put the drink holder.
My wifeís favorite coffee mug.



First I laid it out on a 1/4 inch plate of aluminum and felt that it did not need to be that thick and way to hard to bend, so

I found a piece 3/16 instead (on the right)



While it is still big cut out the hole for the cup.
Man I hate cutting aluminum with that jig saw, especially cutting circles.



Then use the band saw.







I did draw a little blood, the sander grabbed my piece and whipped it around, I know not to work with metal without gloves but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it spun around for about thirty seconds, like to scared me to death I could just see that part flying off and hitting me, finally got it unplugged. then jumped right back on it (with some gloves on) :slap:





And there it is roughed out, it needs to go on a diet, and get beveled, and bent, I bet you wonder how I am going to bend this, yea me too, but you get the idea where I am going with this.
More later when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #67 on: November 17, 2017, 06:33:24 PM »
So, square is boring.



Letís add some holes.



And a few more holes.





And now time to bend it.



This is two inch channel iron and a one inch pipe.



In my press.



It is important to keep the piece square, that is the job of the lines on the tape, the tape also keeps the aluminum form getting gouged really bad, you need to expect some scrapes but want to minimize them. Aluminum is not as forgiving as steel when it comes to bending.  It is important that you do not bend the aluminum at too sharp a radius; you could bend it in the vise but take a chance of surface cracks. The one inch bar keeps this from happening, and I feel it adds interest to the piece.



And there are your bends, you can see the bends are not 90 degrees yet, the press will only take them so far. Tomorrow I will finish the bends with a big hammer and figure out how I want to mount it.



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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #68 on: November 18, 2017, 05:19:40 AM »
 :up:
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #69 on: November 20, 2017, 12:56:26 PM »
A few real quick photos, I pretty much finished the drink holder.





I have not mounted it yet because I am not sure of where I want to mount it yet, I ordered an SS insulated cup that fits it better, the one that I have is too tall, the shortest that I could find is seven inches tall and mounted up front it would be close to hitting Mrs. Cruiserís leg.



Back further I would have to do some work on the inside of the arms on the pack but I kind of like it there. I am going to make it removable and need to order some shoulder bolts and cut some groves in the cup holder for them to attach. If I mount it there then on the other side of the pack where the speakers would have gone I will cut a hole for a small glove box.

I started the pad for the pack, I did not like the direction that I was going with all the small pieces that I was going to cover and decided to make a cover that will just snap on. It might just be temporary until I can come up with something better. The lack of a pad is keeping me from using it other than for solo use.
I have to tell you that I am stretching my ability to the limit starting the upholstery work, probably why I have put it off. You think that you know how to do upholstery work until you start doing it.
I am not going to do a lot of narrative because I do not want anyone confusing me for someone who knows what they are doing.
But here goes.



Iím using the old pad cover as a size pattern.







You want to overlay the two pieces by a quarter inch or the amount that your seam will be from the edged when sewn together.



Then transfer to your material for the other side. The pad will be like a pillow and have a front and back so need two of each, front back and both arms front and back.



And there are your pieces. More when there is more.
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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #70 on: November 25, 2017, 09:02:08 AM »
Man this is hard, not easy at all.
I started sewing everything together.



The sewing machine is working great, it has not missed a stitch, the clutching motor takes a little getting used to, remember me saying the motor spins at full rpm and you slip the clutch to get it started and let it slip in order to sew real slow. Itís like having your Harley revved up to 5k and slipping the clutch to start and stop and ride at five mile per hour and trying to juggle at the same time keeping the both pieces of the material straight and lined up with the foot at the same time.


It did not fit the rounded area very will so adding a extra panel in the middle.





The curved line is the cut line.






And you have to do this times 2.






I need the straps that I will use for the snaps to attach the pad, you do not cut nylon straps you melt them; this is a 1 1/8 socket and a soldering iron. I need at least ten of these.
Next is putting the two together. The seat will be a pleasure to do compared to the pad, simply because of the shape and not needing to have a front and back.
More when there is more.
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Offline crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #71 on: November 26, 2017, 05:34:40 AM »
What material are you using? I've wanted to work on a seat for a while and looking at "bonded" leather. I too am not an upholstery guy but have done it before using vinyl. I don't want vinyl or Naugahyde, I want leather .... But that's what I'm finding ( the bonded stuff) and I wondered if you have heard of it or used it?
Crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #72 on: November 26, 2017, 07:03:47 AM »
What material are you using? I've wanted to work on a seat for a while and looking at "bonded" leather. I too am not an upholstery guy but have done it before using vinyl. I don't want vinyl or Naugahyde, I want leather .... But that's what I'm finding ( the bonded stuff) and I wondered if you have heard of it or used it?

Crock, I am using naugahyde, because I live in Florida, and leather is not practical because of the mold. Bonded leather is ground up leather glued to a fabric. I have never used it but they say it has disadvantage as well as advantages. You can not beat real leather for looks wear ability and ease of working. Plus it's real and I love real stuff. I get mine at a local leather shop, used to be a tandy and on eBay. Search for upholstery leather, get it in the color that you want unless you want to stamp a pattern in it, then get tooling leather. Tooling leather is thicker and you work it differently than thinner leather. More like you would work wood instead of fabric.
What are you thinking of doing? I have done several seats and glad to give advice.
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Offline crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #73 on: November 27, 2017, 06:39:07 AM »
I have a Mustang seat that I love ( I call it my shovel strato lounger ) that has developed a small tear at a button. I picked up a drag specialties seat at a swap meet thinking " Hey that looks like my Mustang" which it does kinda but is in no way comfortable. I want to take apart the Drag seat and see if I can fix it and reupholster it using the original cover as a guide and if I can and it looks OK then try to reupholster the mustang seat again using the original cover as a guide
Crock

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Re: Making a custom tour pack for my Softail
« Reply #74 on: November 27, 2017, 03:41:50 PM »
I have a Mustang seat that I love ( I call it my shovel strato lounger ) that has developed a small tear at a button. I picked up a drag specialties seat at a swap meet thinking " Hey that looks like my Mustang" which it does kinda but is in no way comfortable. I want to take apart the Drag seat and see if I can fix it and reupholster it using the original cover as a guide and if I can and it looks OK then try to reupholster the mustang seat again using the original cover as a guide


Crock, I had a mustang on my Sportster they are nice seats, mine had a metal pan and that is a little tricky putting on the cover since you need to use rivets, not impossible but harder than using staples.
Using the extra seat to practice on is a real good idea, hope you have a decent sewing machine.  Like I have said many times coming up with a pattern is the hardest part, using your old cover will really help. Changing the pad is pretty simple you can add or grind down the old pad to fit you and make major improvements. Most of the time changing the pad does not change the pattern for the cover. Sometimes you will need to add a seam if you make the pad concave the cover will stretch like a drum and just not look right, so you make a seam and that will follow the contour better.
I am getting a little more done, taking my time on this so I donít make any mistakes.
I had to add another panel at the bottom so that the cover fit the contour better.



The new panel adds a little patern to the design. I thought about using some of the oxblood Naugahide but decided less is better, just to add interest with the panel/seams.





I want to show you the stick that I am using; it is called a single top stitch. This stick is the most common used on seats, almost all HD seats use this stitch. It is strong and decorative and easy to do. I wanted to use a double top stick or French stitch, that has a stitch on both sides of the seam but for that you need a backing liner and in the tight turns it is hard to do so maybe when I get a little more practice will try it.
Man I love this sewing machine, what a pleasure, makes my seams look good. I need to pay more attention to the bobbin, was sewing away on the top stick and finished. Went to check my bobbin and had five inches of thread left. If I had run out on the stitch it would have been a problem re starting.
Also love the Naugahide, the quality is unbeatable; it is twice the thickness of the HD pad that I took off. It looks so much like leather it is amazing.
I am getting supplies ready for the snaps making sure I have everything, and wanted to show something important. Snaps come in different colors sizes and lengths. Yes the size is different than the length.





Here are two the same size different lengths, you can see one is longer than the other.
The one on the left is for thicker leather/material, it is too thick for the strap that I am using and would be too long. It would bend as you are peening the shaft and cause the head to be offset from the snap.
Ask me how I learned this. You can get the different snaps from a leather shop or on line You can still get supplies from Tandy on line but most of the stores are closed. My Tandy is a local leather store so I go there.
Anyway that is where I am at, more when there is more.
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