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General / Re: repairing battery post
« Last post by 98fxstc on Today at 01:29:09 AM »
I had a bad connection which melted a battery post
I had enough material left to repair post by screwing a bit of aluminum angle to it
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Twin Cam / Re: 96" to 106"
« Last post by sfmichael on Yesterday at 11:40:24 PM »
CR575  :up:
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Twin Cam / Re: Hydraulic clutch issue
« Last post by sfmichael on Yesterday at 11:37:58 PM »
I really wish they would have stuck with the cable.

 :up: :up:....what is new is not always better!

   :agree:    glad I have a 2013
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Twin Cam / Re: Tman 625 cams in (fullsac) stage 1 CVO 110
« Last post by sfmichael on Yesterday at 11:35:47 PM »
pull the heads and have them freshened up

get new springs and knock .030-.040 off them and use a .030 head gasket

the 625 should be right at home

not much $ and you'll have a runner

some good bolt-in cams are out there too if that's all that's in the cards

CR570 as Don said or CR575...among others

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General / Re: repairing battery post
« Last post by Tobias on Yesterday at 10:56:40 PM »
without seeing a picture I'm gonna say that unless you are already set up to get and melt down lead it would be easier and cheaper to just replace the battery
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Dyno Runs / Re: 2013, 103", FLHTK, S&S 551 Cam, Headpipe and SPO Mufflers
« Last post by sfmichael on Yesterday at 10:30:04 PM »
$2000-$2500 to make a '13 and older 103" sing

2014 -2016 just needs some mufflers and a tune - $1500

what is a "lot of money"

my prices are quoted with reasonable labor charges included - can be done for less if the owner can wrench
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General / repairing battery post
« Last post by Odin on Yesterday at 10:08:30 PM »
Buggered the post on my battery such that it can't be used. Is there a way to repair it. My indy suggested I build a form around it, pour molten lead into the form and run a tap into the new lead for the bolt. Sounds reasonable but it's new territory for me.Anyone ever repaired a damaged post?
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Twin Cam / Re: Hydraulic clutch issue
« Last post by koko3052 on Yesterday at 09:56:46 PM »
I really wish they would have stuck with the cable.

 :up: :up:....what is new is not always better!
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General / Re: How does this look
« Last post by Karl H. on Yesterday at 09:50:00 PM »
Did you use the Spectro 85-W140 gear oil that is GL-5 rated? If so the sulfur and phosphoric additives might have harmed the insulating lacquer and copper. I wouldn't use GL-5 oils in the primary.

Karl
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EVO 1340 / Re: Cylinder Studs
« Last post by david lee on Yesterday at 09:24:32 PM »
I'm guessing they recommend to use new studs because reworking the interference fit ones doesn't make them any money? Besides, NONE of the HD dealers within 50 miles of me has any new studs in stock. Might as well be working on a knucklehead.

I will say that cutting the interference threads with a die is a PITA, not to mention pretty hard on the die.

And I guess I'm confused why you are confused. Pretty simple, use a 3/8-16 die, put stud in a vice, run the die over the interfence threads, and voila, you have "regular" threads.

When I went to remove the head nuts yesterday, the one near the intake port felt 'funny'. As in, not so tight. So I pulled that one out and Timeserted it as well. The two nuts on the left side were really tight. Remembering that I was using Cometic MLS head gaskets, and installed per the Cometic instructions, I'm now questioning how much that contributed to the pulled studs. Using the HD method (12 ft/lbs then 1/4 turn), I typically measure about 32-35 ft/lbs of torque on the nuts. Cometic has you taking them up to 42 ft/lbs. That's 30% more torque than HD recommends. Hmm. Rather than tempt fate again, I put it back together with the HD method, and hope the head gasket seals.

So now just need to put the carb and tanks back on and go for a spin!

-JW
and hope is all good
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