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General / Re: Car charger
« Last post by Coyote on Today at 10:06:24 AM »
12 volts is 12 volts....
General / Car charger
« Last post by 89 fxrs on Today at 09:52:38 AM »
Just want to be sure if it's ok to use a car charger that goes in to the cigarette lighter on a Road Glide to charge my Iphone
From the pictures it looks like the right side shock is not parallel/straight within it's self. Easy fix diagnostic would be to replace the shock. Or at least take it off and check things for square.
General / Re: fuel guage
« Last post by egstandard on Today at 09:28:07 AM »
Smoserx1. Over two years later and I'm ready to troubleshoot this thing. I'm a little confused with your explanation. Can you rewrite it and maybe show a pic for this?
Twin Cam / Re: S&S 4.125" Cylinder Wear
« Last post by Ohio HD on Today at 09:17:18 AM »
Well back to this. I threw my inside snap gauges in the toolbox drawer that has my hammers and chisels in, as that's where they belong. I bought an SPI digital bore gauge, and a Fowler calibration stand so I can measure accurately. So below is what I see with these cylinders. They have in excess of 40k miles, pretty hard riding for the most part. This isn't a highway bike. I measured an inch from the top of the cylinder, then the middle, then just above the lower ring wear point, also the spigots.

I'll need +0.010" pistons to clean these up. I guess I need to measure a few OEM TC cylinders I have around to get an idea as to how these wore in relation to a stock motor. I think this isn't an extreme amount of wear, but I assume the rings for these CP pistons have a higher tension than OEM. As well this 117" ran considerably better than a stock motor of course. So it was ridden that way.

Anyone that does do top end work have any figures as far as wear seen on OEM TC or S&S cylinders?

(Attachment Link)

Not sure why you need to go 10 over.  No place in the cylinder measures over 4.130..   If you want to invest is tools (assuming you already have the plates) buy a portable hone from goodson, dig up an old 1/2 inch drill motor and hone the cylinders yourself. If they clean up at 4.130 buy 5 over pistons.

As far as snap gauges go, you need to practice more.  The are typically good to 1/4 to 1/2 thou if you take your time.  Yes dial bore gauges are faster.

As far as SnS cylinders go the ones I've bought were loose from SnS to start. Also I don't understand why you didn't measure at 90 degrees also to get "out of round".
Numerically yes, an 0.005" should do it. But I want to insure that I have a really straight and round as possible cylinder. I know what the CP pistons should measure, but I'd rather have them ordered and on hand and know what size the cylinder needs to be to acquire the 0.0025" clearance. Either way I had to order them. As far as me honing them, there isn't really a need, Bill of Bore-Tech is 1/4 mile from me, he knows his stuff, so I leave it to him.

I got into a warmed conversation with my chief die maker here at work over snap gauges (he is an expert machinist), and I agree an experienced hand, and with a quality set of snap gauges they are repeatable. Mine say made in USA, but they are old, no name brand, and they were really, really cheap when I bought them. The problem is they don't collapse all that smoothly. So the repeatable aspect was not working for me. I agree they can be used for very close accurate measure, but they also need to be decent quality. Mine are either too tight, won't collapse repeatably, or too loose and pop open. I looked at Roger's (at work) Brown & Sharp snap gauges, they're much better quality than what I have.

I don't know if these cylinders were finish bored from S&S or not. I didn't buy these so I have no idea. I suspect they were purchased with pistons and already bored, but I don't know that for sure. I had never asked Ray about that. These could have had greater than a designed 0.0025" piston clearance from the start. The set I bought for my 124 were unfinished, I would prefer that in any event.

I did measure at 0 and 90, these values listed were the highest of the two measures at that location. I have that info at home, it wasn't all that bad really, at least I didn't think so.

Milwaukee-Eight / Re: Milwaukee 8 Timken upgrades
« Last post by VDeuce on Today at 09:15:15 AM »
Any comments or experience with removal of the counter balancer(s)?
I don't have any M8 experience but in the older bikes the header makes little to no difference on mild builds in regards to power output

Removing the cat will reduce the heat radiated from the exhaust

I'm not a tuner so can't say about the O2's...although logic will sway me to believe they would be superior. Hopefully Durwood or another tuner will chime in on that topic.
Fuel Moto / Re: Jackpot M8 Outlaw 2/1 systems now available
« Last post by hdrider on Today at 09:05:45 AM »
How do these compare to your Jackpot 2-1 Road and Track System for a 120" M8 build?
Bought the bike 2-3 years ago, 11,000 KM on the odometer. The first time I took it on the highway I noticed that coming out of a turn for the next fifty kilometers or so the tire felt like it was being slide to the side of the road. Bought the extended service plan when I bought the bike and booked it in a few times. Tires are always inflated properly, spokes are proper, I'm on my second set of tires and experiencing the same problem. The dealership has tried to adjust the windshield thinking it was a problem with crosswind.. they also found that my forks were not evenly set in the triple trees. The problem was not fixed by anything they've attempted. It ruins a good ride to say the least and after seeing the condition of my right side rear shock I'm beginning to think this machine is just wholly unsafe.

I did notice not too long ago that my right side shock seems to be FUBAR, is this not something they would have checked? Going back in my pictures from previous riding seasons it's the exact same. My warranty has since expired and this problem persists so I have taken Harley to task on rectifying it but even I'm scratching my melon. In the one photo it's EXTREMELY apparent somethings wrong with the shock all that is sitting on the bike at the time is about 20-30lbs of clothing and gear strapped to the sissybar.
Just got off work so I'm extremely tired if there's any questions I can answer I will.

edit: not sure why my images won't display? Here's links just incase,

General / Re: fuel pump problems
« Last post by roadkingdresser on Today at 08:52:27 AM »
If the fuel line had a pinhole,wouldn't the pump run more?
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