Author Topic: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race  (Read 897 times)

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Offline pstreetglide62

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2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« on: March 12, 2018, 05:25:19 PM »
Anything available other than oem race 34901-08 and bearing 9231 ? I don't think baker makes a sealed unit bearing for 2008,could be wrong.Have inner primary apart for shifter shaft seal,linkage arm on trans.Going to replace IPB-RACE -SEAL while I am in there, 58,000 so far everything has been fine with the trans,New comp gmr tray and updated tensioner.I don't think I can fit the removal tool behind the race only.077 inch behind the race,i will know when the tool arrives,might have to cut it off?  Thanks  Paul
« Last Edit: March 12, 2018, 05:45:09 PM by pstreetglide62 »

Offline Ohio HD

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2018, 05:32:41 PM »
You will probably have to cut it. Most pullers are about 0.100" thick, you could machine the tool thinner, but it'll be weaker too. I prefer to use the OEM bearing, but use the S&S race. The S&S race won't walk inwards on you like the OEM can.
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Offline pstreetglide62

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2018, 05:39:20 PM »
That's what I thought,I don't mind cutting the old race carefully.I did happen to see the S-S race for 48.00 or so, does that sound about right? Thanks Ohio

Offline Ohio HD

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2018, 06:05:27 PM »
Sounds about right.
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Offline smoserx1

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2018, 06:32:55 PM »
I've replaced the race on my bike 4 or 5 times now.  The last time I had to cut it off, but the time before that it had walked just a little inward like yours and I was able to use a bearing separator behind the race to pull it out enough to get the horseshoe on.  It bent the bearing separator doing this...some heat on the race would probably have helped.  The last time however it had walked all the way in and crushed the seal so that one had to be cut.  To me it was tedious, it took about 3 hours (I was scared to do much at a time).  Ended up going through 2 or 3 of those tiny cut off wheels, and still  ended up with a tiny nick in the main shaft, so be careful and cut it as a last resort.  After that ordeal I would never use anything but the S&S race, which cannot walk inward.

Offline BVHOG

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2018, 06:59:27 PM »
DO NOT grind the tool any thinner, ask me how I know :angry:
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Offline kd

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2018, 07:42:16 PM »
Donít grind the race all of the way through. It can be cracked full length a couple of ways with a decent groove.
KD

Online tdrglide

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2018, 09:15:35 PM »
Like this. This one had moved into the seal. Hit the groove with a chisel not very hard, came right off, loose.

Offline N-gin

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2018, 11:09:18 PM »
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.
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Offline pstreetglide62

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2018, 03:27:13 AM »
Thanks for all the help guys  I will start on it tonight,Think I will go with the S-S race.   Paul

Offline rigidthumper

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2018, 04:08:25 AM »
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

Don't know if that'll work on a six speed without bending the shift forks?

Offline les

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2018, 10:35:13 AM »
I've pulled a lot of walked in races and never cut the slot and wack it to get it off.  That angled cut and not knowing the depth to avoid hitting the mainshaft...I just never have and ain't ever gonna do it that way.

Rather, I put a piece of tape around the race about half way.  I cut two slots on opposite sides of the race.  My set of calipers assures 100% I don't even come close to getting too deep.  Then I use a clamshell tool (same thing to pull of a Timken bearing) in the slots with the flat side towards me.  Then I hook up the normal bearing puller tool on that.  I move the bearing out until I get enough space to put the horseshoe in, then remove the rest of the way.

No nick, no wack, no long process, and clean as a whistle every single time.

Offline kd

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2018, 10:43:50 AM »
Great tip Les.  :up:
KD

Offline Thermodyne

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2018, 12:22:04 PM »
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

You can not drive that race with a hammer.  Not off, or especially not back on.

If you beat on the race, you are in effect beating on the trapdoor and the trapdoor bearing.  Neither one is up to taking blows from a hammer.

The race needs to be pulled off.  Or split, so long as the blows are light and from the side.  And the race must be pushed onto the shaft.  Driving it on just costs money down the road.   

Online PoorUB

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #14 on: March 13, 2018, 02:55:02 PM »
Last race I put one I heated it up with my heat gun, and slipped it on the shaft. You need to work quickly. Once the race hits the shaft it cools off and shrinks back to size so have a stack of feeler gauges or something to limit how far on it goes.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

Offline FSG

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #15 on: March 13, 2018, 03:24:56 PM »
Donít grind the race all of the way through. It can be cracked full length a couple of ways with a decent groove.

 :agree:     also use wood blocks from the table up to support the underside of the race/shaft, a good cold chisel and typically one wack and it's cracked and easily off

Offline N-gin

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #16 on: March 13, 2018, 11:42:42 PM »
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

You can not drive that race with a hammer.  Not off, or especially not back on.

If you beat on the race, you are in effect beating on the trapdoor and the trapdoor bearing.  Neither one is up to taking blows from a hammer.

The race needs to be pulled off.  Or split, so long as the blows are light and from the side.  And the race must be pushed onto the shaft.  Driving it on just costs money down the road.   
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

Don't know if that'll work on a six speed without bending the shift forks?

Didn't say anything about beating on the race or off. this is only to gain clearance for the puller.
I did say tap, and of course you want to stop tapping when it stops moving.
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Offline Ohio HD

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2018, 03:40:21 AM »
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

You can not drive that race with a hammer.  Not off, or especially not back on.

If you beat on the race, you are in effect beating on the trapdoor and the trapdoor bearing.  Neither one is up to taking blows from a hammer.

The race needs to be pulled off.  Or split, so long as the blows are light and from the side.  And the race must be pushed onto the shaft.  Driving it on just costs money down the road.   
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

Don't know if that'll work on a six speed without bending the shift forks?

Didn't say anything about beating on the race or off. this is only to gain clearance for the puller.
I did say tap, and of course you want to stop tapping when it stops moving.

The point that in any way pushing the shaft and side loading the trap door bearing, and then again pushing it back to home will shorten that bearings life. I wouldn't recommend that anyone do that. As well as Robin stated, the shift forks aren't going to allow much movement before they make contact and stop, risking breaking the fork.
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Offline N-gin

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2018, 03:59:28 AM »
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

You can not drive that race with a hammer.  Not off, or especially not back on.

If you beat on the race, you are in effect beating on the trapdoor and the trapdoor bearing.  Neither one is up to taking blows from a hammer.

The race needs to be pulled off.  Or split, so long as the blows are light and from the side.  And the race must be pushed onto the shaft.  Driving it on just costs money down the road.   
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

Don't know if that'll work on a six speed without bending the shift forks?

Didn't say anything about beating on the race or off. this is only to gain clearance for the puller.
I did say tap, and of course you want to stop tapping when it stops moving.

The point that in any way pushing the shaft and side loading the trap door bearing, and then again pushing it back to home will shorten that bearings life. I wouldn't recommend that anyone do that. As well as Robin stated, the shift forks aren't going to allow much movement before they make contact and stop, risking breaking the fork.

How much of a press fit is it on the Trap door bearings?
When I did it to mine it didn't take much to move. I actually thought it would be harder to move.
This was also 16k miles ago.
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Offline Ohio HD

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #19 on: March 14, 2018, 01:49:58 PM »
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

You can not drive that race with a hammer.  Not off, or especially not back on.

If you beat on the race, you are in effect beating on the trapdoor and the trapdoor bearing.  Neither one is up to taking blows from a hammer.

The race needs to be pulled off.  Or split, so long as the blows are light and from the side.  And the race must be pushed onto the shaft.  Driving it on just costs money down the road.   
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

Don't know if that'll work on a six speed without bending the shift forks?

Didn't say anything about beating on the race or off. this is only to gain clearance for the puller.
I did say tap, and of course you want to stop tapping when it stops moving.

The point that in any way pushing the shaft and side loading the trap door bearing, and then again pushing it back to home will shorten that bearings life. I wouldn't recommend that anyone do that. As well as Robin stated, the shift forks aren't going to allow much movement before they make contact and stop, risking breaking the fork.

How much of a press fit is it on the Trap door bearings?
When I did it to mine it didn't take much to move. I actually thought it would be harder to move.
This was also 16k miles ago.

I have no idea what the press pressure is for the bearing and the shaft. I just know it's not good mechanical practice to whack on a shaft in a roller bearing where the only thing you put impact against is the rollers. Then whack it back in place. That's why you don't see that mentioned in any service manuals. If it works for you that's great.
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Offline Thermodyne

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #20 on: March 14, 2018, 03:31:02 PM »
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

You can not drive that race with a hammer.  Not off, or especially not back on.

If you beat on the race, you are in effect beating on the trapdoor and the trapdoor bearing.  Neither one is up to taking blows from a hammer.

The race needs to be pulled off.  Or split, so long as the blows are light and from the side.  And the race must be pushed onto the shaft.  Driving it on just costs money down the road.   
If you don't want to risk nicking the shaft with the cut off. And puller cant fit behind race then I usually take the right side cover off and jack shaft nut, tap with a dead blow soft mallet and the mainshaft slide out enough to fit the puller.

Don't know if that'll work on a six speed without bending the shift forks?

Didn't say anything about beating on the race or off. this is only to gain clearance for the puller.
I did say tap, and of course you want to stop tapping when it stops moving.

The point that in any way pushing the shaft and side loading the trap door bearing, and then again pushing it back to home will shorten that bearings life. I wouldn't recommend that anyone do that. As well as Robin stated, the shift forks aren't going to allow much movement before they make contact and stop, risking breaking the fork.

How much of a press fit is it on the Trap door bearings?
When I did it to mine it didn't take much to move. I actually thought it would be harder to move.
This was also 16k miles ago.

It's not much, more of an interference fit.  But it's enough that pushing the shafts out ruins the bearings. 

The whole point here is to not beat on that shaft.  In or outwards hurts the trap door bearing.  And sideways isn't really doing those needle bearings of the drive gear bearings any favors.   IMHO, if the puller wont fit behind the race, cutting a set of slots further out is the safe way to pull it.   And installing it with the little tool is the the way to put it back.  Some people use the mainshaft threads and the hub nut, but I've seen where that went way wrong. 
« Last Edit: March 14, 2018, 06:50:25 PM by Thermodyne »

Offline 04 SE DEUCE

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #21 on: March 14, 2018, 06:27:39 PM »
IMHO, if the puller wont fit behind the race, cutting a set of slots further out is the safe what to pull it.   And installing it with the little tool is the the way to put it back.  Some people use the mainshaft threads and the hub nut, but I've seen where that went way wrong.

I agree.  There use to be a picture around here that showed a race with 2 vertical slots cut on opposite sides of the race.  A little care not to cut into the shaft and use a bearing separator in conjunction with a yoke and pressure screw or a good 2 jaw with a means of not allowing the jaws to spread which is what I've personally used.

Offline Thermodyne

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #22 on: March 14, 2018, 06:49:09 PM »
I had a 5 speed in here last month where the owner had just replaced the primary bearing and main shaft seal, then it wouldn't shift when he was done.  He had used a piece of pipe and a big hammer to drive it on.  The trap door was cracked and the bearing was protruding to the right side.  If 4th gear wasn't so big, I thing he would have driven the main shaft out the right side of the trans. 
« Last Edit: March 14, 2018, 06:59:11 PM by Thermodyne »

Online kouack

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #23 on: March 15, 2018, 03:22:34 AM »
I had a 5 speed in here last month where the owner had just replaced the primary bearing and main shaft seal, then it wouldn't shift when he was done.  He had used a piece of pipe and a big hammer to drive it on.  The trap door was cracked and the bearing was protruding to the right side.  If 4th gear wasn't so big, I thing he would have driven the main shaft out the right side of the trans.
Lasf year i was looking for vidťos on how to replace the ipb and saw a dude was using a piece of pvc tube to drive the sleeve in lol probably took exemple from there  :oops: :emoGroan: :kick:

Offline les

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Re: 2008 flhx inner primary bearing and race
« Reply #24 on: March 15, 2018, 09:18:33 AM »
Great tip Les.  :up:

Most of the time, unless the bearing is on real tight, I won't even stop to change to the horseshoe.  I'll just keep going with the clamshell until I pull the race all the way off.  Other times I'll change over because my clamshell is near and dear to my heart.  The tape half way helps to get the slots even on both sides, of course.  Again, taking a depth measurement with the calipers before you start (OD of race to surface of mainshaft) makes it so easy to pause from time to time to see if you've cut approximately half way deep.  In other words, you don't even come within a country mile of the mainshaft (or the Main Drive Gear cause you're not cutting in that direction) if you quickly pick up the calipers and stick the probe end into the slot...so easy to eyeball about half way deep.  Very consistent and safe.