A question about hydraulic clutches.

[Paniolo]

it brings the engaugement point back to mid point from the end

So let me get this straight:

1. Squeeze the clutch lever 3 times.
2. Pull the derby cover.
3. Take the wood handle of a hammer, and press the center of the clutch, where the rod presses, inwards 3 times.
4. Squeeze clutch lever 3 times.
5. Release point is now midway.

That's it, right?
If so, I'm going to try it today.

[Makdaddy]

it brings the engaugement point back to mid point from the end

So let me get this straight:

1. Squeeze the clutch lever 3 times.
2. Pull the derby cover.
3. Take the wood handle of a hammer, and press the center of the clutch, where the rod presses, inwards 3 times.
4. Squeeze clutch lever 3 times.
5. Release point is now midway.

That's it, right?
If so, I'm going to try it today.

So did that correct the throw?

[Paniolo]

So did that correct the throw?

Well yes and no.

I removed the derby cover, squeezed the clutch lever 3 times, and TRIED as HARD as I could to press in the center of the clutch where the rod sits. I have attached a photo of what I was pressing in on.

For the first few seconds the clutch release point had moved inward. However, after a few more uses it was back out to the very end of the release point.

Any other suggestions?

[smoserx1]

If you think about it with a regular mechanical clutch, altering the adjuster nut you are setting the distance the pushrod will move before it begins to move the pressure plate away from the disk stack.  Then with the cable adjuster you are setting the amount of slack before the ramp moves (and thus the pushrod).  Properly adjusted gives both adjustments a little slack and that ensures your clutch does not "ride" when fully engaged resulting in wear on the clutch, throw out bearing and slippage.  By fine tuning this you can control to some extent your friction zone relative to the lever position.  Neither adjustment is available with a hydraulic clutch.  If the fluid is free of air and leaks you are at the mercy of the design.  What you did was like pushing one of your brake caliper pistons back a little.  A few lever strokes and it is back where it was.  Sorry.

[Paniolo]

What you did was like pushing one of your brake caliper pistons back a little.  A few lever strokes and it is back where it was.  Sorry.

Makes sense to me, thanks.

[Makdaddy]

Im thinking you may need to add a shim or spacer ring to the clutch pack.
Harley should have Clutch pak height Specs.

Like smoserx1  said there is no adjustment like a cable clutch, the only way would be to space the clutch pack out a little, thus the throw of the clutch rod.

Mine seems to be fine when its cold, but when hot the throw is at the end of the lever. (Shell Rotella 10W 40)
So not sure if a heavier oil may help as well?
Im debating about adding a shim this winter.

[1FSTRK]

Im thinking you may need to add a shim or spacer ring to the clutch pack.
Harley should have Clutch pak height Specs.

Like smoserx1  said there is no adjustment like a cable clutch, the only way would be to space the clutch pack out a little, thus the throw of the clutch rod.

Mine seems to be fine when its cold, but when hot the throw is at the end of the lever. (Shell Rotella 10W 40)
So not sure if a heavier oil may help as well?
Im debating about adding a shim this winter.

The clutch puck is self adjusting just like your disk brake calipers, as soon as you add a shim, just like when the brake pads wear, the system will take up the slack.

[Ken R]

So many people  complain about the hydraulic clutches.  The girls hate 'em cause they cannot hold them squeezed at long lights.  Motorcops hate them because the friction zone is only like 1/8" wide.   Slow racers hate them because of the extremely narrow friction zone. 


I've converted a couple to cable clutch; but it ain't easy.  And the clutch switch for a hydraulic clutch actuates backwards from  a cable clutch.  So the roller needs to be removed from the clutch lever so that ECM thinks that the clutch is always engaged; else the cruise control won't work. And, of course, if the ECM always thinks that the clutch is engaged, the motor  won't start if in gear!


Seems like The Motor Company could easily overcome most of the complaints  with a different ratio between the master  and slave cylinders.  They could also build in some freeplay at the far  end of the clutch lever actuation to bring the friction zone a quarter inch closer to the grip.  There'd still be plenty of disengagement as total disengagement occurs at  about .035".  Doesn't need the super-wide disengagement that the current actuator provides. 


Someone should aftermarket a retrofit kit to cable.  Only problem with ElectraGlides is that the cable would have to be external  from the batwing fairing.  No place for a cable within the batwing any more. But RKs would work perfectly!

[PoorUB]

I guess I am the odd one then because I have no complaint on the hydraulic clutch. I like it, one less thing to adjust.

[Paniolo]

I'm with KenR, the hydro clutch makes slow cone work more difficult.

[Moparnut72]

I guess I am the odd one then because I have no complaint on the hydraulic clutch. I like it, one less thing to adjust.

You are not the only one. I have no problem with mine. I was taught to set up a cable clutch to work this way with just a quarter inch of free play.
kk

[Coyote]

I guess I am the odd one then because I have no complaint on the hydraulic clutch. I like it, one less thing to adjust.

You are not the only one. I have no problem with mine. I was taught to set up a cable clutch to work this way with just a quarter inch of free play.
kk

Me too. 

[mrmike]

It seems to me that the only way to change the "throw" of the lever on a hydraulic clutch is to either change the size of the piston/bore of the master cylinder to increase/decrease the amount of fluid sent to the slave cylinder when you pull the lever.

Or maybe a different clutch lever that could be adjusted mechanically so that it's pull distance can either increased or decreased.

Not having one so I'm just spitballing here but if it's like a brake lever couldn't you grind a little material from the face where the lever pushes against the piston which should bring the lever in closer to the grip when it's applied.

Mike

[04 SE Deuce]

I guess I am the odd one then because I have no complaint on the hydraulic clutch. I like it, one less thing to adjust.

You are not the only one. I have no problem with mine. I was taught to set up a cable clutch to work this way with just a quarter inch of free play.
kk

Me too. 

  Put me in the hydraulic clutch fan club also.  Zero maintenance or issues in 134K.  Nice clean release,  starts to engage a little over halfway out,  the way a healthy clutch with straight plates and everything functioning properly should work.  I can slip the clutch easily when wanted to include a little throttle blip went taking off.

Clutch works exactly the same with stock or SE spring other than the increase in lever pressure needed.

How many standard shift cars/trucks have a clutch that starts to engage right off the floor.  I can't stand a bike with a clutch that engages close to the bars.  My Ducati starts doing this when the slave cylinder needs a seal kit.

On a good day I have no problem doing full lock turns in either direction,  throttle at fast idle,  clutch in the early part of fiction zone and drag the rear brake to get what you want.  This is about as proficient as I have ambition/interest at/in being going slow.

[Geezer_Glider]

Wouldn't you have to mill the relief hole longer (towards the pressure hole) in the master to really let the lever come closer to the bar before pressuring the line? A pin file would work but you have to be sure it is a smooth edge inside or you'll tear up the master cup. Also, put me in the category of NOT liking the juice clutch and the A/S setup, works OK but I really like the feel and performance of a cable with a real clutch pack and good stout spring.
Just saying,
R Meyer