Oil pressure and temp gauges

[IronButt70]

Have a couple questions about installing oil pressure and temp gauges on my 17 FLSTC. There are 2 threaded and capped outlets on the oil filter housing. (see pic)
Is there anything behind those plugs and can those 2 holes be used to mount electrical sending units?
Thanks in advance.

[Thermodyne]

Those are gallery plugs, left from when the oil passages to the filter were drilled.  I suppose you could use one for a pressure sender.  But with the pressure port only inches away, why not put the sender there?

As for temp, the pipe plug in the front of the oil pan is the place for that. 

Or better yet use that sender to read head temp.

[IronButt70]

Thanks. Could use the pressure port but getting the idiot light sender out will be tough without removing the exhaust pipe. I'd also have to use a tee for both senders. Pretty tight fit.  Can the ECM be programmed to not display the idiot light if I don't use the sender? No oil pan on the softail. Is the oil tank thick enough to drill and tap?

[kd]

One of the members here has written several times about those ports and the oil pressure at them. (rbabos)  As I recall the pressure is different there than the OEM sender unit because of which side of the pressure relief valve they are on. I'd look into it or test it yourself before doing the install.   

[rbabos]

One of the members here has written several times about those ports and the oil pressure at them. (rbabos)  As I recall the pressure is different there than the OEM sender unit because of which side of the pressure relief valve they are on. I'd look into it or test it yourself before doing the install.   

On my TC, the upper was after filter pressure and the lower was pre filter which will read the same as the normal OEM pick up spot as it's the same galley. The upper will read a few psi lower then OEM location until oil heats up. Then both read the same. The lower, on cold oil will read higher then normal from filter media resistance until oil gets hot.  As mentioned these galleys area drilled, then caps area screwed in to seal the ends.
Ron

[IronButt70]

Thanks to all for the answers. 

[Thermodyne]

Thanks. Could use the pressure port but getting the idiot light sender out will be tough without removing the exhaust pipe. I'd also have to use a tee for both senders. Pretty tight fit.  Can the ECM be programmed to not display the idiot light if I don't use the sender? No oil pan on the softail. Is the oil tank thick enough to drill and tap?

Not sure what the specs on your oil gauge are, but I'd bet money the sender is the same as one of the split senders from the automotive industry.  On the oem set up one sender works both the light and the gauge. 

As for the oil bag issue, no I don't thing it will support the sender, you'd need to weld in a bung.  All the more reason to just put it in the head.   

[IronButt70]

Done. Seems to be pretty accurate. Not doing a dash mount temp gauge. Getting oil tank dipstick gauge instead.

[Thermodyne]

What's the story that radio?  I never saw one like it. 

[IronButt70]

What's the story that radio?  I never saw one like it.

It's actually a marine radio designed for use on boats. It's water proof so that's why I bought it. Has bluetooth, surround sound capability and a usb port if you have one with music on it. The only missing feature, which I was not aware of when I bought it is that it has no preset mode for storing local stations. Not a biggy for me because I stream music through my phone most of the time.

[hd06]

 What kind of setup did you use to be able for the oil psi solenoid. Thanks

[IronButt70]

What kind of setup did you use to be able for the oil psi solenoid. Thanks

I removed the bracket that holds the voltage regulator and the lower bracket that holds the ABS module. That gave me clean access to the lower gallery plug. I removed the plug and put in a 90° 1/4" pipe thread fitting. I then put in a 1/4" to 1/8"' reducer bushing and screwed the sending unit into it. Put the ABS and VR brackets back in place and done. The gauge harness plugs into the sending unit with a quick disconnect water proof plug. No exposed wiring. So far so good. The long term test will be to see how well the sending unit holds up to the heat and vibration.
Here is a link to the gauge I used.

[hd06]

   Thanks

[hbkeith]

What's the story that radio?  I never saw one like it.

how big is that radio behind your dash ? does it seek/scan for stations ?

[IronButt70]

What's the story that radio?  I never saw one like it.

how big is that radio behind your dash ? does it seek/scan for stations ?

It's only a few inches deep behind the dash. It will seek/scan for stations.

[IronButt70]

Changed my mind and installed the electric temp gauge. Used the upper oil gallery passage. I also have the tank dip stick gauge. It's interesting to see the difference in temps between the 2 because the electric gauge reads the oil temp after it has passed through the oil cooler. Right now in the cooler weather the the tank gauge says about 190° while the electric gauge shows about 160° after a 25 mile run at 70 MPH. Will check for accuracy with my infrared temp gun tomorrow. Using the Liqui-Moly 10-60 oil. Summer temps will be interesting.

[shysterorange]

what were the capped port sizes? NPT size?
thanks! 1/4 npt?

[IronButt70]

what were the capped port sizes? NPT size?
thanks! 1/4 npt?

Yes. Needed 1/4x1/8 reducer bushings for both.