rubbermounted kick starter

[hogpipes1]

Ok, correct me if I am wrong, but as PC said the rubber mounted transmission did away with the trap door so in order to remove the fifth gear main shaft the engine has to be split.

Yep been that way sense 04. 1 st yr of rubber mount . If you want to hot rod up a sporty  For the st.  91-03 best yrs.   5 speed & belt  good start point.

[Xyzzy]

It wouldn't be popular and sell but:

I would buy a Sportster that was kick-start only.

Fit a small lithium battery to power the fuel pump. It probably could be the size of a pack of cigarettes.

I bet it would kick-start easily!

[daniele_1983]

thank you PC Hater. I wouldn't be able to find the code alone. what a pity Ronnie's doesn't send outside USA (is this part of the Trump policy?? 😁)
I know a 04 up sporty doesn't have the trap door and so to install this kit is a mess. I hope to avoid disassembly but it's an uphill road (I don't know if in English there is this eay of saying)
I know also that someone can buy a motorcycle and do just minor customisation but - first of all - I think harley davidsons have lost lots of their appeal with the EFI and then if I were rich enought I would have bought simply the motor, frame, fork, tranny, wheels ecc and created the motorcycle by myself. A real custom!! but I'm not rich and also in Europe this is quite illegal or very difficult to realize. So I have bought a relatively cheap sporty and then I play to be Harlen Ness 😎

[daniele_1983]

by the way: is the mainshaft hardened or tempered steel or is it normal carbon steel? this makes giant difference in remachining

[Backyard Mech]

Bump wrong post

[J.Kinkade]

If you got a kicker on a rubber sporty, you would see engine move on runner mounts when you kick, I would expect, but would be very hard to fire up, as the new ignitions fire every second s turn of motor, primary ratio not 2 to 1 so one kick would not spin motor over enough.
I was kick start only on an old stroker Shovel 98 cubic inch, fired every stroke. I loved it.
but I kick started an iron head sporty was harder to kick than the shovel as lower primary ration, the sporty kicked back too.
if you really want a kicker, go back to carb & points ignition.

[daniele_1983]

ok, there is an aftermarket ignition module, daytona Twintec TCFI4 that permit you to set the spark fire at the thirth, second or first motor turn. you can also set the advance to 0 to avoid kick back. the German Altmann P3 also does the same things. but I prefer Daytona cause it's easier to install and still maintain the map sensor.
In another forum, Chopcult, people discuss about re-open the nosecone, that in a 2004-up is plugged, and so you can install points or stand alone ignitions. but I don't know how can you time the bike, modern sportsters don't have the inspection hole and the timing marks...

[PC_Hater]

For setting the timing you would have to remove the primary cover and make some marks on the engine sprocket or the alternator rotor. Then make up a pointer that you can hold in place using the primary cover  screws.
I think that will be the easy part of your kickstart conversion!

[daniele_1983]

Well, to change from electronic to points I think I have the complete parts list:
- cam modification to accept rotor (as posted here. what a pity vulcan ignition is out of stock...
http://vulcanworks.net/Sportster-Cam-Cover-With-Ignition-Finned-2004-Up-p-17177.html
- 2003 cam cover
- timing rotor
- complete mechanical advance kit
- new coil is necessary?
- but without the timing hole I did not understand how to time the bike.
you speak about to operate from the left side, disassembling the primary cover before, but I think it is a bit difficult. any photos to show it better??

in any case an ignition module based from crank sensor is a good alternative to me...

[farmall]

Ask your machinist if he can drill a transmission shaft that long. I expect he'd chuck the shaft in a lathe and use a "gun drill" extended length bit. Solid carbide extended bits are available.  As it's an unusual job I'd expect to pay for the bit. Common "carbon" steel (1018 etc) isn't suited to transmission shafts (and is nasty to machine). Shaft is likely surface hardened. Carbide won't be bothered as it's suitable for drilling hardened steel.

In any case I want a kicker cause every two years the battery looses its power and if electric falls in the middle of nothing there is no way to turn the motor on.

Use a battery tender if the bike sits. Load test the battery if in doubt (auto stores usually have a load tester or you can buy one).  Batteries aren't immortal. If I store a bike long term I bring the battery indoors and leave it on a tender. Two years is about an average battery life.

If you have a battery with a shorted cell and manage to kick start, that battery can damage the rest of your charging system.

[Panzer]

Giving it more thought.................
Let's say that the battery is to low to start the bike, now we go to the kick starter.
As Daniele has said, there is still enough juice to fire the plugs and it fires up, all well and good at this point.
The problem is that the bike uses electric for the headlight, speedo and taillight, not to mention running lights once it's running.
Even though the bike started by the kicker, it will not stay running unless Daniele has a main switch to shut down all electrical use sources.   Even then I don't believe the bike will go far.

JMHO

[farmall]

I think OP really wants a kicker for the cool factor and rationalizes it using the flat battery argument. Dropping over two thousand bucks between the Vulcan cam cover, the Led Sled kit, custom machining, and tearing down the engine to put the mainshaft in a lathe doesn't compare favorably with buying batteries.

Here are some pics of the Led Sled kit for solid-mount Sportsters http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27170

They show why the shaft is best drilled and tapped in a lathe to ensure the new ratchet hole and threads are concentric with the shaft. On second thought a standard length carbide bit should be long enough. Carbide will cut through the surface hardening so tapping (which should also be done in the lathe) should be easy enough afterward.

[farmall]

Problem solved. OP can now buy a kit for his machine. I've no idea if these are any good, but if not he'll still have the cool factor.  Vendor below is an example. They are V-Twin kits and not made in USA. I would have the original mainshaft drilled and tapped on a lathe to match the replacement since V-Twin quality varies and the mainshaft is a precision part. If anything outside the trans malfunctions that's easy to replace.

https://www.steelthundercc.com/kickstart.html