Main shaft 5th gear seal

[harleytq]

Replacing mainshaft 5th gear seal on my 06 ultra
Do I need the special tool or can I just us something wth a flat end, like a piece of aluminum round stock, or does that damage the face of the seal. Seams to be some rubber standing on face of seal.
I have the gear set out, is it better to do it with the mainshaft installed, with the special tool?

[D-1]

If your not alking about the big seal (12067?) you can often push them and n with your fingers, otherwise use something flat and gently tap it home evenly. The smaller 12035 seal can be taped in with the sleeve from an inner primaryrace installer, or a tube the right size.

[yarddogg77]

Are you talking about the large main seal for the sprocket? Or should I say pulley on your bike? If so then it would be the one that comes with a small ring to seal the inside of the sprocket or pulley when it bolts to the main shaft. If that's the one you have I would consider using sealant when you bolt the sprocket back on rather than that o-ring.

[harleytq]

The small seal in end of 5th gear part # 12035b

[harleytq]

I guess the mainshaft race installer might work?

[fbn ent]

I made up a tool from a piece of pipe before I had my friendly neighborhood lathe operator make me one.

[harleytq]

It doesn't matter if you smash that little bit of rubber on the front of the seal?

[fbn ent]

Not sure what you are referring to...smashing any seal isn't a good idea...

[kd]

      Any deformation to the seal "IS" a leaking seal (now or later).

[harleytq]

The seal has a small ring of rubber covering about half the face of the steel, from the I.D. of t he seal out.

[kd]

If smashing this rubber means bending or distorting the seal face or edge you'll have a distorted inside rubber lip circle.  That means a leak.

[smoserx1]

If your not alking about the big seal (12067?) you can often push them and n with your fingers, otherwise use something flat and gently tap it home evenly. The smaller 12035 seal can be taped in with the sleeve from an inner primaryrace installer, or a tube the right size.

I use the sleeve from the installer tool with an old race to get the distance needed and use the clutch hub nut to press it in.  You can also get a piece of PVC pipe and cut what you need and use the clutch hub nut to press it in.  Home Depot is your friend.

[rbabos]

Slightest dent or distortion from trying to pound it in and it's toast. Best to make up a pipe and use the clutch hub nut to act as the installer. This way it can be started nice and straight and no impact damage that instantly distorts it, that sends you to the dealer for another one. Yup, I screwed my first seal up too, trying it the fast way.
Ron

[harleytq]

How does the georges tool work, thats something you have to tap it in with a hammer right? But I suppose if it starts straight it would be ok?

[rbabos]

How does the georges tool work, thats something you have to tap it in with a hammer right? But I suppose if it starts straight it would be ok?

That's the key ingredient.
Ron

[harleytq]

Here is the seal, the rubber ring that is on the top of the steel around the I.D. of the seal opening. That is what I was concerned about pushing against, since it is higher than the steel portion of the top or front.

[fbn ent]

Best to only push on the metal....lube the shaft too.

[smoserx1]

Well this is one of those things I keep an extra one of and I am looking at it.  I don't see your concern.  Just make sure your installation tool is large enough diameter so it contacts the metal all around.  Of course you would not want to press on just the rubber. Take the seal with you to Home Depot or Lowes and get a piece of PVC pipe and if you have a miter box use the right angle slot to make a straight cut.  As long as the diameter contacts the metal all around you are fine.

[fbn ent]

 

[les]

How does the georges tool work, thats something you have to tap it in with a hammer right? But I suppose if it starts straight it would be ok?

Either the George's tool or JIMS tool works good.  Plus, you'll use them over and over. But my advice is to lube the outside of the seal.  When you tap it in make sure it's aligned straight and also be as patient tapping it in as you were removing the seal.  Too hard of a hit with the rubber hammer and you'll distort the seal, as mentioned above.  Just the right touch and it goes in perfect.

Finally, always buy two seals at the dealership.  It's like an umbrella.  If you take it with you, it won't rain.  Not doing so usually means another trip to the dealer for another seal.

[harleytq]

Got my tool from Georges Garage oiled everything up and tried to push the seal in by hand, like it says in the directions, no way was that going to work. Had to hammer it in with a dead blow hammer, and it wasn't really just tapping it, like they say in directions, then when the seal got about flush, it felt like it fell right in with barely any force.
Does that seam normal?

[jsachs1]

Got my tool from Georges Garage oiled everything up and tried to push the seal in by hand, like it says in the directions, no way was that going to work. Had to hammer it in with a dead blow hammer, and it wasn't really just tapping it, like they say in directions, then when the seal got about flush, it felt like it fell right in with barely any force.
Does that seam normal?

A few things.
Put/or make a condom on the splined section(clutch splines) of the mainshaft when starting the seal on the shaft.
After the seal is in place, put some baby powder or foot powder spray around the area of the seal, with the bike on the kickstand, and trans. slightly overfilled. The powder changes color or gets wet, you have a problem.
John

[les]

Got my tool from Georges Garage oiled everything up and tried to push the seal in by hand, like it says in the directions, no way was that going to work. Had to hammer it in with a dead blow hammer, and it wasn't really just tapping it, like they say in directions, then when the seal got about flush, it felt like it fell right in with barely any force.
Does that seam normal?

Yes, but it sounds to me that you might not have been patient enough.  I use a big rubber mallet and I'll take my time on getting it started in.  Like taking it out, it will finally give way.  Again, it takes the right touch but that takes doing a few of them at least.

[smoserx1]

I'd quit worrying about it.  That tool keeps it straight and yes it is a tight fit.  I don't believe that seal is as flimsy as some folks think and I doubt you distorted it.  Although I have always pressed this particular one in using pieces of pipe and the clutch nut I have tapped plenty of others in using sockets or whatever and never had one leak.  The last time I changed the seals in my forks I tapped them in with a wide flat screwdriver at 12, 6, 9, and 3 o'clock positions (just a little each time) and that was 80000 miles ago.  I can feel you all cringe right now.  I think you will be fine.

[harleytq]

Yeah I don't know how it could have not been straight with that tool.
But when it went below the surface, it seemed to get really loose, and I keep wondering why the original seal was flush with the surface when it looks like the harley tool in the manual pushes it below? Bike had maybe 5000 miles when I got it. Guess its posible someone replaced it?