Harley Heavy Synthetic Gear Oil

[Madtownguy]

I noticed this on the Harley website. Heavy Synthetic Gear Oil 80W140 for the transmission and primary. I have run Redline Heavy Shockproof in my tranny with good results now Harley is recommending you can use their gear oil in the transmission and primary for use in extreme temperature environments (desert heat or cold weather), frequent two-up riding and heavy load riding applications. Has anybody tried this in their primary?

https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/heavy-synthetic-gear-oil#tabs

[PoorUB]

I have not run the Harley lube mentioned, but all I run in the transmission is 75W-140 synthetic, brand varies but what ever is handy. Primary I always run Formula+, but no reason the HD stuff should not work well in the primary. Nothing special in there other than the clutch.

[Moparnut72]

I have been using BelRay transmission oil in my trans and have been pretty happy with it. I have been reluctant to try anything other than the recommended synthetic motor oil in my primary due to the clutch. I am open to ideas though even though this has been discussed over and over again.
kk

[Hossamania]

I stick with Formula+ in the primary of my '12 Ultra, stock clutch, stock compensator.
I use tranny fluid in the '01 King with a Primo clutch on their recommendation.

[Maddo Snr]

I noticed this on the Harley website. Heavy Synthetic Gear Oil 80W140 for the transmission and primary. I have run Redline Heavy Shockproof in my tranny with good results now Harley is recommending you can use their gear oil in the transmission and primary for use in extreme temperature environments (desert heat or cold weather), frequent two-up riding and heavy load riding applications. Has anybody tried this in their primary?

Yes. The dealer put it in my primary last service. On cold start-up it glued the clutch plates together causing the slave cylinder diaphragm to burst. That was at 65F, you can imagine what it would do in a US winter.. 

[Skin]

Harley goes from one extreme to another with oils. 10 years ago or so they told us we could use THEIR Syn 3 oil in all 3 holes. IF I liked their oil, which I don't, I wouldn't put engine oil in a gear box for any reason. I like using Bel-Ray 85-140 in the transmission and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 in engine and Drags Primary oil in the primary, in a stock bike all I need it to do is lube the chain and throw a little around on all the other parts in there. In other words use whatever brand you want but not  that thick stuff in the primary.

[kouack]

cold start-up it glued the clutch plates together causing the slave cylinder diaphragm to burst. That was at 65F, you can imagine what it would do in a US winter..

About the same here, when I tried this years ago minus the hydro clutch in my softail back in the 90s and my clutch was dragging until the oil in my chain case was warm enough. About in the same temperature range up north of you but in  metric measurements 10-15*c  did not last long in the chain case, dropped the oil and went back to 20w50 oil. For someone in a all year hot temperatures why not i guess 

[calif phil]

Harley goes from one extreme to another with oils. 10 years ago or so they told us we could use THEIR Syn 3 oil in all 3 holes. IF I liked their oil, which I don't, I wouldn't put engine oil in a gear box for any reason. I like using Bel-Ray 85-140 in the transmission and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 in engine and Drags Primary oil in the primary, in a stock bike all I need it to do is lube the chain and throw a little around on all the other parts in there. In other words use whatever brand you want but not  that thick stuff in the primary.

That is an excellent recipe right there. 

[Dan89flstc]

I read posts all the time guys saying you must use gear lube in the transmission, but in reality the gears in our transmissions are very lightly loaded as far as gearboxes go.

Harley has been recommending Formula+, which is said to be a motor oil of SAE 50 viscosity.

So, where are all these worn out gears at from not using gear lube?


   

[rbabos]

Formula+ is already a gear oil formula, just not multi grade.
Ron

[kd]

I read posts all the time guys saying you must use gear lube in the transmission, but in reality the gears in our transmissions are very lightly loaded as far as gearboxes go.

Harley has been recommending Formula+, which is said to be a motor oil of SAE 50 viscosity.

So, where are all these worn out gears at from not using gear lube?


   

I would ask by who?   Formula 1 has been discussed many times here when the SE Comp fiasco was brewing.  IIRC the rating on Formula 1 places it in the gear lube category, not engine oil. It is called "Transmission and Primary Chaincase lubricant". In fact the container clearly states "Not for use in the crankcase as a motor oil"

[Hossamania]

Correct, it is a 50 weight gear lube, not a 50 weight engine oil.

[Dan89flstc]

Correct, it is a 50 weight gear lube, not a 50 weight engine oil.

I was under the impression that Formula+ was equivalent to a motor oil, so I stand corrected.

Hoss, do you mean it is a gear lube with the equivalent viscosity of SAE 50 motor oil?

That would be roughly the same as AE 90 Gear Lube.

Either way, I`m using it in my 6 speed transmission and primary, can`t remember what I put in the old 5 speed/primary last time I changed it.

[Norton Commando]

Harley goes from one extreme to another with oils. 10 years ago or so they told us we could use THEIR Syn 3 oil in all 3 holes. IF I liked their oil, which I don't, I wouldn't put engine oil in a gear box for any reason. I like using Bel-Ray 85-140 in the transmission and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 in engine and Drags Primary oil in the primary, in a stock bike all I need it to do is lube the chain and throw a little around on all the other parts in there. In other words use whatever brand you want but not  that thick stuff in the primary.

No kidding!

As you said, motor oil was touted by HD as being fit for purpose in the engine, primary and gearbox. I never bought into their recommendation. In run Mobil 1 20W-50 Vtwin in the engine, and 10W-40 Racing 4T in the primary of my 2012 Ultra Limited. For the gearbox I use 80W-90 gear oil.

Best,

Jason   

[02rk59]

I use the appropriate Red Line in all 3 holes and have been very happy on my old Road King and '14 SGS.  My neighbor just bought Syn3 for the engine and the new HD synthetic gear oil for the transmission and primary but hasn't done the change yet.  I think I will try to convince him to use Red Line for the primary instead of the HD stuff.

[Hossamania]

Correct, it is a 50 weight gear lube, not a 50 weight engine oil.

I was under the impression that Formula+ was equivalent to a motor oil, so I stand corrected.

Hoss, do you mean it is a gear lube with the equivalent viscosity of SAE 50 motor oil?

That would be roughly the same as AE 90 Gear Lube.

That is my understanding.

[PoorUB]

Those that are running motor oil in the primary and '08+ models, how is the compensator holding up? Do you put on many miles? 

For the abuse the compensator sees I wouldn't run anything but gear lube.

[Norton Commando]

Those that are running motor oil in the primary and '08+ models, how is the compensator holding up? Do you put on many miles? 

For the abuse the compensator sees I wouldn't run anything but gear lube.

I use Mobil 1 10w-40 in the primary of my '12 Ultra, but, I also installed the latest compensator design, p/n 42200064A. I don't have but a few thousand miles on the new compensator with 10W-40, so I cannot provide any relevant data yet. The drip rate from the "oil deflector" would certainly be different between gear oil and motor oil. And it's my understanding that the oil deflector found on the latest compensator design was developed based on the characteristics of motor oil rather than heavier gear oil. Hence my decision to use 10W-40; only time will tell how well the latest compensator will hold up with motor oil.

Jason

[MikeL]

2007 ultra amsoil v twin trans fluid in trans. Primary amsoil torque drive and I overlook 8 oz to make sure the comp is getting lube. No problems with shifting and neutral is ez to find and no clunk from neutral to first.

[MikeL]

Over fill 8 oz

[smoserx1]

The only bikes I have ever owned that specified a GL lubricant were a couple of old Gold Wings that used it for the final drive.  They used a ring a pinion gear similar to half of a rear wheel car differential and I always believed that is what that type of oil was for.  I have had two cars with manual transaxles that used the same lubricant for the gear set and the differentials, since they were in a common case.  One specified 10-40 engine oil and the other ATF (that's right, ATF in a manual transmission).  Finally before this Harley I have now, every bike I ever owned contained the engine, primary and gear set all in a common case and thus REQUIRED engine oil for all three functions.  So Harley came out years ago with its overpriced Syn3 (which BTW I tried and think is a fine oil) and they said it is OK to use this stuff in all 3 holes.  Why not?  Its been that way for years as far as I can tell.  In fact it looks like you can run pretty much anything you want to in a manual transmission as long as it's not water.  Anyway I am absolutely not paying $19.95 a quart for any kind of lubricant.  I'll keep using Formula + and Mobil 1 10-50 car oil in my engine like I have for the last 50000 miles or so.  And finally, Wally World has recently come out with its Super Tech full synthetic 0-20 in a 5 quart jug for about 15 dollars and that is what I recently put in one of my cars.  (its gotten great reviews on the internet)  If I find it in a 15-50 variety it is going in my bike as well.

[Die Hard]

I am not a fan of any oil that Harley sells at their dealerships. It's not that I think there is anything wrong with their oil, the problem for me is the fact that Harley did not recommend synthetic oil some years back because they didn't sell synthetic oil. They even said they would not warrant engines that ran synthetic oil because "it was too slippery and would cause problems with their needle bearings." That all went away once they started selling their own branded synthetic oil. Meanwhile I was running Mobil 1 in a 114" motor because it took a full 17 degrees off the operating temperature. Mobil 1 was one of the few synthetic oils at the time but I liked it.

For what is is worth, I run 20-50 Redline synthetic in the engine, Redline synthetic in the primary as this works well with my Scorpion clutch and any brand of 80-140 in the transmission, also synthetic. The Redline in the primary is the only oil I have found that will allow me to easily find neutral at a stop light and not slip under hard acceleration. I am also able to run the lightweight gold springs in the clutch which gives a light clutch pull at the handlebars.

[Phu Cat]

I doubt HD ever claimed synthetic oil was any slippery than Dino oil as it's not.  MAYBE somebody in the shop may have fed that malarky to some customers, but it,s not true.How were you able to determine you engine ran 17 degrees cooler?  Simply running a few MPH faster or slower would change how hot your engine ran,  not to mention ambient air temp.

PC

[jmorton10]

I have tried different oils in all three holes over the years & I am not fanatical about any of them. Keep them changed at regular intervals & they all work fine.

I am currently using Liqui-moly engine oil in my bike & three different cars.  It is full syn & reasonably priced by the case at Amazon.

I have run Redline HD Shockproof in all my trannies (3 speed, 4 speed, 5 speed, 6 speed & now 7 speed) for years. It runs smooth & quiet & my current Baker DD7 absolutely loves the stuff.

When I installed a Bandit Sportsman clutch & Trask shell, Bandit recommended running only 14 oz of primary oil (& specifically said NOT to use Harley primary oil). I am running a Vulcan solid engine sprocket, so I wasn't worried about compensator wear.  With 14 oz of Redline MTL it shifts butter smooth & drops into neutral easily even at a dead stop.

~John

[road-dawgs1]

Perhaps that explains this....