Help with stalling

[Mule]

Pouring fuel into the motor will just contaminate the oil and cause premature wear.

I agree with that ,  Cough and stall is usually a lean condition when the motor reaches operating temperature , yeah you can tune around it and change things up but lean is lean
Just my opinion ...

[JW113]

Isn't point ignition 3 ohm? And the Dyna S is a direct replacement for points.

I believe points ignition is typically 5 ohm coils.

-JW

[misfitJason]

I am running a dual fire dyna S which uses a 5 ohm coil

[capn]

If you used the same carb and manifold off the old motor you could have intake leaks.That will make it seem lean and also make it cough and stall. I run a 120 evo and that happened to me.

[misfitJason]

 :koolaid:I've got a new mechanical advance coming.  I also got a new bellows seal and will check the throttle shaft while apart. I am going to start with the carb and bellows seal to see if that was the problem. Then I will move onto the mechanical advance so I can pinpoint it

[cheech]

That is a poor choice of ignition for such a fine motor.
And I believe your problem is ignition related.
The DynaS retains the problematic centrifugal advance mechanism and will not run a high output coil on the street.
It is not an electronic ignition it is a points replacement system that has no current limiting protection no dwell control no provisions for a VOES.

I would use at the least an Ultima Single fire Kit $175 on eBay
A step better would be a Dyna 2000I , S&S HI-4N, or a Daytona Twin Tec. Few if any of the other systems offered are on par with these 4.
These modules are all programmable, if the built in curves don't work for your application, they all have select-able curves, rev limiters, soft start, dwell control, current limiting protection and support VOES

I would also add a VOES to the install all of any of the 4 ignitions mentioned, a VOES is like a vacuum advance and adds fuel economy fuel mileage and eases starting.

2019, New S&S V111. And a mechanical advance ignition. 

[Burnout]

There seem to be many out there who feel that a Dyna S is the next best thing to sliced bread.

The same ones who think a VOES is an emissions thing.

You can lead a horse to water, but some water ain't worth drinkin' and some horses can't tell the difference.

Again just to be sure my above sarcasm is making the trip, this water is pure.
"a Dyna S is NOT an Electronic Ignition, it is a points replacement system that retains 98% of the problems of a points system."  [spit]

[misfitJason]

This is my game plan when I get back from vacation

I also ordered up a replacement s&s rubber fuel line. I am going to in a specified order replace some parts in this order so I can see if one of these fixes it:

Scope the cylinders and run a compression check once one of the tanks halves are off. Then go from there.
Check petcock screen and debris in tanks
Replace the bellows seal and fuel line
Check throttle shaft and idle screw
Replace intermediate jet with a little bit richer.
Replace mechanical advance or replace ignition for dyna 2ki

[misfitJason]

Back from vacation and started playing with a couple of the parts I ordered that had arrived.

I put some new vacuum plugs on the manifold.  I also borrowed a new mechanical advance to see if that makes a difference. I won't be able to ride it until tomorrow morning. I did put the timing back to where it was so I can see if I still have a problem.

I pulled the mixture screw. I didn't notice a o ring anywhere for that.  But it didn't appear buggered up.

If these don't make a difference My next step is a replacement fuel line and check the petcock screen and possible debris in tanks. Enjoy the pics.

[Burnout]

Are your spark plugs black?

I'm thinking you may be on the rich side for the low speed and the lousey spark timing is what is causing the spitting back.
It seems you have already proven it is timing related, as a spark timing change cured the spitting.
Now you are complaining of a off idle stumble, if the low speed jet is too big and you have a rich idle,
when you open the throttle and the transfer port is exposed this pours even more fuel in,
then the accelerator pump dumps in even more. Now you have a rich stumble.

First off turn down the accelerator pump, You can turn it back up later if needed.
Make your tuning decisions with it off, it can cause problems masking a lean condition or overload it with fuel.

If your plugs are black they are not going to fire right (on the verge of fouling) and it shows you have too rich of a low speed circuit.
Todays fuel should not leave any color on a new plug, it will appear to have a light grey coating of ash when right.
Make sure you are using the heat range called for for that motor (stock EVO is a great starting place since you are not high compression or running nitrous)
Autolite 4265 is a great EVO plug and available at most any parts store. Extended tip and the right heat range.
Avoid any exotic plugs as they can cause problems, try them later if you have disposable income, get it tuned right first!

[misfitJason]

Update:

None of the replacement parts seemed to make a difference. So I started playing with jets.

I installed a .33 intermediate and that cured all my off idle hesitation and hinting that the bike was doing. I literally just got back from a ride for about five miles and she did not stall out on me but it wasn't really far enough to tell as of yet.  I am going to ride her in the morning and see. It might even be worth trying out a 34 intermediate.  I did drop my main down to a 76 and now she seems to pull better top end. 

If she continues to stall I am going to try and take video of her doing it to aide in the process

[wfolarry]

There should be an o ring on that screw. Check to see if it's in the carb. if it's not you need to get one.

[misfitJason]

There should be an o ring on that screw. Check to see if it's in the carb. if it's not you need to get one.

S&S told me the old carbs (like I have) don't use an Oring on the screw

[misfitJason]

well, she still cuts out. I rode her to work today and pulled the plugs. Plugs are black and obviously too rich Looks like I still have an air leak somewhere. Back to the drawing board

[david lee]

There should be an o ring on that screw. Check to see if it's in the carb. if it's not you need to get one.

S&S told me the old carbs (like I have) don't use an Oring on the screw

i think your right. im going the check my b series

[misfitJason]

Here is the solution to the thread.

Had a small intake leak.  Sorted hat out and she still stalled. Tracked it down to a worn mechanical advance. Long story short is she does not like a dual fire ignition. Will be switching to a dyna 2000i or a Twin Tec