05 Ultra won't start unless I twist the throttle?

[JustEd]

I've got an 05 Ultra with a 95 inch motor (not sure if that it really matters or not) but to get it started I have to twist the throttle.
I've heard that it might be the IAC and have actually tried to clean it myself by using a technique I saw on-line late last riding season. It worked for two riding sessions and now I'm back to having to twist the throttle to get it to fire up.

I guess the question is: Should I just take it to the dealer since it's under warranty and they can replace it or will they just clean it?

Or

Should I try and remove it this time and do a better job of cleaning it?

And if I do get answers of doing it myself, I'll need some advice on how to clean it while it's off the bike.
Thanks guys!

[FLTRI]

I've got an 05 Ultra with a 95 inch motor (not sure if that it really matters or not) but to get it started I have to twist the throttle.
I've heard that it might be the IAC and have actually tried to clean it myself by using a technique I saw on-line late last riding season. It worked for two riding sessions and now I'm back to having to twist the throttle to get it to fire up.

I guess the question is: Should I just take it to the dealer since it's under warranty

If the dealer diagnoses the problem to be caused by the IAC they can replace it under the 5 year emmisions warranty your bike came with from the factory.
If you have a tuning device and they have, or you know of, a dyno and qualified tuner, you may be best off to have the IAC replaced then the EFI tuned for the latest of fuels and your specific bikes variables like the injector output differences, exhaust system, cams, etc.

Or

Should I try and remove it this time and do a better job of cleaning it?

Your words: "It worked for two riding sessions"  - So why not just repeat what you did last time and fugetaboutit?

And if I do get answers of doing it myself, I'll need some advice on how to clean it while it's off the bike.

Removing from the bike will not help as it is sealed except for the place you can get to from iside the throttle body as you did before.[/quote]
Just a note: The fact the IAC clogs up after 2 seasons indicates you are possibly out of tune either with one or both cylinders.
Bob

[hotroadking]

or the iac is fubar'd and needs to be replaced.

Did you make any changes and then the problem started?
when was it last tuned or was it ever tuned.

[JustEd]

The last time it was tuned was 2 years ago.......do they really go out of tune that quickly if that is the problem?
Dyno tunes are expensive! 

Since removing it does not sound like it will be of any advantage to me, does anybody have the procedure they can post
that will walk me thru the process again. I thought there was some type of sequence I had to go thru to get the IAC motor
to activate and cycle so I could spray it with carb cleaner?

And when I referred to 2 riding sessions, I actually meant 2 days.....It was late last riding season when I attempted it and
then along came winter so the bike was stored. Six months later (chicago area) I get er ready for riding again and it's starting to happen again. I did fire right up after sitting all winter but now it's back to twisting the throttle to get it going
again.

And if the dealer replaces the IAC, do they do a tune under the warranty as well or just send you on your way?

[maineultraclassic]

If you have to twist the throttle to start, doesn't it make sense that maybe the Throttle Position Sensor may be suspect as well?

Have you taken the air cleaner off, and fully inspected the throttle body and all the connections to the sensors?

Have you ever removed the metal plug and adjusted the small screw that opens the throttle blade? It's located in the lower right corner when you are looking at the throttle body. That may have vibrated loose and backed off and closed the throttle blade too much and not allowing the proper amount of air in for starting and idle.

Steve

[JustEd]

I suppose that could be the culprit as well. I'm not sure how to check this, I'll try a search on this site.

I haven't fully looked into the throttle body and checked connections as I was thinking it was a cleaning issue again.

I'm not real familiar with the adjusting screw and plug you are referring to......does anybody have a picture of this?

[hotroadking]

Stop by the dealer and pick up the Service Manual for your bike
It shows everything your asking about as well as how to do
everything to the bike.

Best $40 you'll spend.

[tarheelrdr]

If you have to twist the throttle to start, doesn't it make sense that maybe the Throttle Position Sensor may be suspect as well?

Have you taken the air cleaner off, and fully inspected the throttle body and all the connections to the sensors?

Have you ever removed the metal plug and adjusted the small screw that opens the throttle blade? It's located in the lower right corner when you are looking at the throttle body. That may have vibrated loose and backed off and closed the throttle blade too much and not allowing the proper amount of air in for starting and idle.

Steve
[
/quote]
I agree with Steve, we both have had alot experience with IAC & TPsensor issues since both of have or had had the Datona Twin-Tec ECU on our bikes. The first thing I look for when I have to give it gas is the IAC . Some how It always gets out of sync. Usually all it takes is about a 1/4 turn clockwise to bring it back into proper tune. I eventually will go the sert or TTS system and do away with the DTT . and use somebody elses fuel tuner. Would like for somebody tocome out with an auto fuel & timing unit. That would be the best of all.

Tim

[JustEd]

I finally got it to the dealer for repair.
They claim it's being caused by faulty compression releases. I don't fully understand how this can be causing the problem but they replaced them
and now it starts.

I've only tried it twice but so far so good.........Just thought I'd update this thread since it's fixed.

Thanks for everybodies input!

[maineultraclassic]

Sounds a little fishy to me.

Compression releases have nothing at all to do with starting the bike..........except for making it easier on the starter to turn the motor over.

Steve

[Admiral Akbar]

Sounds a little fishy to me.

Why not?  If the release kicks off to early or too late.. Too early and the starert stalls, too late and you get to light that 200 psi only the 160?  I suspect the lectric ones stay on all the time but I know some motors like to start easier if the pressure is high..

Max

[hotbikes]

I would guess that the engine temp sensor may not be showing a cold engine on cold start.  Twisting the throttle would deliver more fuel making starting easier.  Does it need throttle for hot start?  I know it should turn check engine light on if its out of whack but it may not be far enough out to set a code yet.  JMHO

[dakota224]

Sounds a little fishy to me.

Why not?  If the release kicks off to early or too late.. Too early and the starert stalls, too late and you get to light that 200 psi only the 160?  I suspect the lectric ones stay on all the time but I know some motors like to start easier if the pressure is high..

Max

Mine does. if i dont use the Compression Releases it seems to start right off. with the realeses on it takes a couple seconds. but when hot dont risk it.. use them.. save the starter..

[FLTRI]

Mine does. if i dont use the Compression Releases it seems to start right off. with the realeses on it takes a couple seconds.....[/quote]
Until it gets really hot try using just 1 release. Try both to see if you notice a difference in how it starts.
Reason being the EFI ECM looks for compression type engine rotation before it sends go ahead signal to ignition.
I usually opt for the rear release just because it's easiest to get to.
HTH,
Bob

[apendejo]

Good luck with that 5 year emissions warranty thing. Read the fine print,  it's 5 years or specified milage, which ever comes first. I tried that when my intank fuel lines got pinholes in them. Dealership pointed out the mileage, told me to pound sand. I ended up doing the work myself. Have not looked back.
AP

[Tre_11 FLHX]

I had a similiar issue on my softail (carb) ended up being the diaphram in the petcock.  Fuel was leaking past it and flooding the carb.  Faulty compression releases, WTF do they have to do throttle position and starting on a cold engine   Sound like the typical HD mechanical diagnosis.  Suprised he did not get the "thats normal" excuse.

Like Bob, I only depress the rear release most of the time.

Mike

[maineultraclassic]

My compression releases stick sometimes and don't close right away............but the bike starts everytime and keeps running with no problems at all.

No way a compression release would cause you to twist the throttle on an EFI bike in order to start it. There is a EFI sensor that is bad and needs to be replaced.

Steve

[rigidthumper]

Just a side thought take it for what it's worth (0¢)
If The bike was tuned with SERT, TTS, or SEST, and the displacement constant was increased beyond 95,
AND/OR
The injector decreased below 4.35, (in an effort to keep VEs below 127 @ greatest airflow) then the Cranking fuel, IAC warm up steps, and possible Warm up enrichment may need to be adjusted
FWIW
Robin

[Clintster]

I am just a layperson, I pull the aircleaner and watch the IAC operate when the ignition is turned on.  When the bore was all gummed up I cleaned it with brake clean. In the start position it was open and the bore could be accessed.  Soon there after it failed completely, had to replace it