Question about solid sprocket and primary chain tensioner

Started by scott7d, August 12, 2019, 11:44:07 AM

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scott7d

Last weekend I decided to give a 34T solid sprocket a try. I kept my compensator just in case things didn't work out. I have another friend who will buy the solid unit from me minus what I paid to have it shipped if I decide to take it out over the next month "trial period".

The riding experience feels fine. It feels different under certain circumstances and it's a little noisy. Which going into it, I was told it would be. I am ok with noise if everything is running well. Under certain conditions, it sounds/feels like I may still have a little too much slack in the primary chain. After installing it felt a little loose but my mechanic said once I start riding it should auto-adjust and be fine.

Is it possible for these "auto" tensioners to still need a little manual adjusting? I've been talking to a member on here who set his auto tensioner and then welded it to stay in place. Thinking of going that route in the event the solid sprocket does stay in.

After research it seems like the solid sprocket vs comp is a touchy subject. My lower end is reinforced, and I don't launch at stop lights, so figured I'd give it a shot. Has anyone else went to a solid sprocket and needed to play around with the tensioner a little more? Thanks!
Scott Matlock - Bloomington, IN
Iron Butt Rider #72408 - Facebook: The Hoosier Cruiser

turboprop

I have been running solid compensators in two of my 124" FXRs for over a year. These are five speed bikes so the primary chain tensioners are somewhat different. That being said, I have determined that chain tension is more critical with a solid sprocket than it is with a compensator. The resolution on the factory style chain adjuster is IMO, to course. One notch up makes the chain too tight, one notch down makes it too loose. Fortunately, Baker offers their fine-tooth primary chain adjuster for five speed bikes. The switch to this adjuster was significant, well at least enough to justify the cost (both time and money). I am very pleased with the solid sprocket/fine tooth adjuster combination and cannot imagine going back to the oem stuff. I don't detect any increase in noise with the solid sprocket compared to the compensator. If anything I would say there is less noise now with the solid sprocket compared to the comp rating around in there. I don't see how a solid sprocket could produce more noise than a multi-piece compensator?
'We' like this' - Said by the one man operation.

scott7d

I also do not see how it could cause more noise. The splines on it and the stock unit look identical. It must just be the tensioner needing tightened.

If I manually adjust the auto tensioner, is there a possibility it could go back the other way and be loose again, or is there something in place that allows it to only tighten on its own? I hope that makes sense. I'd prefer not to buy a totally different unit if possible but will do whatever necessary to make sure everything is running correctly.

I have heard mixed reviews on the Baker unit. I ride 20-25k miles a year and need something robust. Sounds like you've had good luck with it.
Scott Matlock - Bloomington, IN
Iron Butt Rider #72408 - Facebook: The Hoosier Cruiser

No Cents

  the factory primary tensioner will only move one way on it's own...which is tightening up. Once it's adjusted itself up a tooth...it can never move backwards on it's own.

   added later:
if your mechanic put the tensioner in and the chain was too loose you can try taking the bike out and doing some hard 1st gear accelerations and decelerations. This will help make the tensioner adjust up tighter. Usually 5- 6 hard pulls like that will get the tensioner to tighten up some. This might get rid of the chain slapping noise your hearing.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

scott7d

Quote from: No Cents on August 12, 2019, 06:19:23 PM
  the factory primary tensioner will only move one way on it's own...which is tightening up. Once it's adjusted itself up a tooth...it can never move backwards on it's own.

   added later:
if your mechanic put the tensioner in and the chain was too loose you can try taking the bike out and doing some hard 1st gear accelerations and decelerations to help make the tensioner adjust up tighter. Usually 5- 6 hard pulls like that will get the tensioner to tighten up some. This might get rid of the chain slapping noise your hearing.

Thank you! I will give that a try before discussing what we talked about through PM. Thanks again for your feedback on this! I'm sure it will get worked out  :beer:
Scott Matlock - Bloomington, IN
Iron Butt Rider #72408 - Facebook: The Hoosier Cruiser

No Cents

  I haven't had no reason to pull my primary off for a couple of years now. I do plan on pulling the primary cover off and giving mine a good inspection this winter. I've been running a 32 tooth Game Changer with a factory tensioner that has the wedge welded to the body so it can't move. I haven't heard anything abnormal...so I keep on riding it.
  If my Game Changer looks questionable...I'm going to try a solid 32 tooth comp eliminator sprocket.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

1workinman

Quote from: No Cents on August 12, 2019, 06:41:59 PM
  I haven't had no reason to pull my primary off for a couple of years now. I do plan on pulling the primary cover off and giving mine a good inspection this winter. I've been running a 32 tooth Game Changer with a factory tensioner that has the wedge welded to the body so it can't move. I haven't heard anything abnormal...so I keep on riding it.
  If my Game Changer looks questionable...I'm going to try a solid 32 tooth comp eliminator sprocket.
Ok with fresh parts , chain, tensioner compensator set the tensioner at 5/8 deflection pushing up on the chain mid point , mark with a sharpie and weld the wedge
with some 7018 I guess . I could TIG it I guess at work or some 70 wire with the miller wire welder . How is the best way to do that . I assume you marked and removed , welded and installed . Thanks again Ray for the advice

FXDBI

Quote from: 1workinman on August 12, 2019, 07:25:10 PM
Quote from: No Cents on August 12, 2019, 06:41:59 PM
  I haven't had no reason to pull my primary off for a couple of years now. I do plan on pulling the primary cover off and giving mine a good inspection this winter. I've been running a 32 tooth Game Changer with a factory tensioner that has the wedge welded to the body so it can't move. I haven't heard anything abnormal...so I keep on riding it.
  If my Game Changer looks questionable...I'm going to try a solid 32 tooth comp eliminator sprocket.
Ok with fresh parts , chain, tensioner compensator set the tensioner at 5/8 deflection pushing up on the chain mid point , mark with a sharpie and weld the wedge
with some 7018 I guess . I could TIG it I guess at work or some 70 wire with the miller wire welder . How is the best way to do that . I assume you marked and removed , welded and installed . Thanks again Ray for the advice

I gave mine a little stainless tack 4 corners with the tig  years ago. Wash it real good to get all the oil out of it first.  Bob

Rob L

I'm using a solid sprocket and used the HD manual tensioner on my 124 and it was noisy as hell. I took the primary cover off multiple times to check the adjustment but it would not quiet down any. I pulled the tensioner off and replaced it with a Hayden automatic tensioner and all it good and quiet now. With the compensator there's a little buffer action if you will which provides a cushion which keeps everything quiet. My opinion is, the solid sprocket is obviously solid and even with the manual tensioners properly adjusted theres still chain slap happening as theres about 5/8 free play. Again just my opinion so take that for what's its worth

No Cents

   good luck with that Hayden tensioner in your 124.  :up:
What is the old saying...been there...done that.
  Mine looked fine for a season...but after that the shoe just flat out wore out. I'm assuming they must have gotten the spring issues worked out. The early ones were breaking the springs under the shoe.

 
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

rbabos

Generally a solid sprocket will cause more chain whip, due to not having a slight cushion the comp would offer for lower rpm engine pulses. This is usually countered with a bit more tightness on the chain tensioner. Just don't run out of room, as in rigid chain when the system is at operating temps or on those really hot days. This lack of cushion would most likely beat the snot out of the Hayden design. Not a fan, myself. Best for 45hp Shovels and such that use a small primary engine sprocket. Bigger the engine sprocket, the more it will amplify low rpm chain whip.
Ron

zoot

I just welded mine a few weeks ago. Set it at 5/8" mark with sharpie, c clamp to keep it tight and 3/8"  tacks on both sides with my mig. Make sure the tacks don't block the arms that hold the pad.I did mine close to the end. So far everything is working fine. I had a baker adjuster on it and it bent,bad. Second one I had that did that. Baker might make some good stuff but in my opinion there  primary chain tensioner is not something they did good. They need some re engineering on that.

                                                                                                                                                                                                               Walt

D.W.

I went to a solid sprocket last year after having nothing but issues with the compensator. From what I can gather what you're experiencing is normal I've got about 25,000 miles on the set up and have no abnormal wear (or wear at all from what I can visually tell) and that is with the stock tensioner. I beat the hell out of that bike with a stock bottom end and a Barnett scorpion clutch (82lb spring) and have had absolutely no issues.

scott7d

I really appreciate everyone's feedback. It doesn't sound like anything is going to go wrong as it currently is, but wouldn't be a bad idea to evaluate the current tensioner position before too long.

I took screen shots of all the feedback. Thanks again!
Scott Matlock - Bloomington, IN
Iron Butt Rider #72408 - Facebook: The Hoosier Cruiser

76shuvlinoff

QuoteThis lack of cushion would most likely beat the snot out of the Hayden design. Not a fan, myself. Best for 45hp Shovels

Been running a solid sprocket with a Hayden tensioner on my 93" shovel since 04. Ok, maybe it only has 46hp.  :hyst: The Hayden for the shovels and the one for TCs are different animals, as mentioned the sprockets are different diameters and I believe the spacing from drive sprocket to trans sprocket is different as well?

I welded my stock TC tensioner on my 12 EG. Then I tried the TC Hayden for a season, I unwelded my stocker and put it back in.  I've got the Harley Slam Drive either way regardless of the SE comp and magic fluids used. The shovel is much more quiet.

  If I want a quiet engagement of 1st gear on the Twinky I start it in gear. :wink:  I didn't think much of it until my last trip...with Goldwings.

Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway