Tried and True SE Heavy Breather external breather modification.

[838]

I'm going to pull the rockers of my 117", drill out the well holes 1/8", and run the external breathers down to the bottom of the frame. I could do 100% DIY approach, but if somebody who does this, or has done it could respond with some instructions (pictures would be great!)  I'd really appreciate it!

While in there I think I'll do some rocker lockers too.

Thanks!
Travis

[Coyote]

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=84904.msg974341#msg974341

A simple search will yield many threads on this topic.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

There are a few places more than happy to sell you $5 worth of fittings for $50 

[838]

There are a few places more than happy to sell you $5 worth of fittings for $50 

🐟

What are you suggesting? I was planning on using your rocker inserts BTW!

Just curious too... when I install these and take the rocker support plate off to drill the 1/8" holes, can I leave my adjustable pushrods be, and simply re-install everything as if they were solid and jus wait for the lifters to bleed back down before spinning it over... they're brand new lifters.

[Johnwesley]

I think he is saying there is a vendor that sales fittings and hose with a breather for 50 bucks, another $14 and you get a drill and tap. Basically you could buy the stuff from an automotive shop for like $20. Either way it's DIY

There are a few places more than happy to sell you $5 worth of fittings for $50 

🐟

What are you suggesting? I was planning on using your rocker inserts BTW!

Just curious too... when I install these and take the rocker support plate off to drill the 1/8" holes, can I leave my adjustable pushrods be, and simply re-install everything as if they were solid and jus wait for the lifters to bleed back down before spinning it over... they're brand new lifters.

[Hossamania]

Yes, you can leave your pushrods in and bolt the rockers back down.

[Ohio HD]

can I leave my adjustable pushrods be, and simply re-install everything as if they were solid and jus wait for the lifters to bleed back down before spinning it over... they're brand new lifters.

Yes, but turn the motor over so that both valves are closed when doing that cylinder. BEFORE loosening the rocker support.

[No Cents]

   you might also want to give some thought to venting to a catch can instead of just running your vent lines to the bottom of the frame.
   If your engine happens to spit a little oil out...you definitely don't want it to get on your back tire. Bad things could happen. Just saying.

[bobrk1]

I did  mine  on my 12 ultra found  pics  here  drill at tap for 1/8 pipe got fittings  at hardware  store  used  tube  of  Hi temperature  gasket  stuff  to fill  in  passage  that  feed into  throttle  body  to seal it, been  a  few  years  no problem  just  vent  to  ground  did same  on my 97 road  king 

[Coyote]

No need for a catch can IMO. Just route it back down the frame rail. Tubing is bent out at the end to take it away from the bike and it's not going to hit the rear tire if it were to dump.

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[itsafatboy]

when I did this I also went to 1/2 breather bolts in heads EVO size, not sure if it helps but opens up breathers , I also use KRANK vents on heads then just to a crank case filter , I have no oil issues from there on a 116" 11.3 comp.  but I also use S&S rocker boxes different venting setup 

[Rockout Rocker Products]

There are a few places more than happy to sell you $5 worth of fittings for $50 

What are you suggesting? I was planning on using your rocker inserts BTW!   

Also MAKE SURE you blow the oil out of both the breather bolt holes and the rocker support bolt holes. Trapped oil will have nowhere to go & often cracked heads will be the result 

[rigidthumper]

I found rubber tubing that would fit onto the nipples, (3/16" ID, 5/16" OD) then drilled the chrome caps that hide the breather bolts so the rubber tubing would just barely slid through with lubricant ( dish soap) on the tubing. measured the tubing for routeing to a T under the TB , then a single tube down to the frame, just at the intersection between the trans and engine. Once happy with everything, I soaped the upper ends, slid the caps on the tubing a couple inches, then slid the tubing onto the nipple. Once seated, slid the cap along the tube until it was seated. Once the soap dries, tubing will not move unless you force it.

[838]

I found rubber tubing that would fit onto the nipples, (3/16" ID, 5/16" OD) then drilled the chrome caps that hide the breather bolts so the rubber tubing would just barely slid through with lubricant ( dish soap) on the tubing. measured the tubing for routeing to a T under the TB , then a single tube down to the frame, just at the intersection between the trans and engine. Once happy with everything, I soaped the upper ends, slid the caps on the tubing a couple inches, then slid the tubing onto the nipple. Once seated, slid the cap along the tube until it was seated. Once the soap dries, tubing will not move unless you force it.

This is what I was thinking. Does the tubing go over the breather bolts? Can you send a pic of this?

Only downside I'm thinking could be the liquid not flowing downward as quick because the tubes start out perpendicular to the ground from the breather bolts.

[rigidthumper]

Not my setup, but gives you the idea.

[Hossamania]

Not my setup, but gives you the idea.

Would it be possible to drill from the bottom up, use an angled vacuum hose connector for the nipple, and run the hose down instead of out as in the picture? I've not worked on that style yet.

[Coyote]

You must not have looked at the link I posted.

[838]

I like the idea of having the hose connected directly to the breather bolts. Correct me if I'm wrong but by doing it this way one would eliminate the need to bi pass the holes that drain the fluid back in to the throttle body.

[Hossamania]

You must not have looked at the link I posted.

I did not, but it might have been a good idea before I posted! Thanks for not calling me an idiot outright, though I certainly deserve it.

[chaos901]

Working on my education here so possibly off base.  Isn't one of the causes of the oil getting to the air cleaner the fact that the umbrella valves get worn (frayed) around the edges over time and don't seal completely anymore?

Just curious.

[Coyote]

I like the idea of having the hose connected directly to the breather bolts. Correct me if I'm wrong but by doing it this way one would eliminate the need to bi pass the holes that drain the fluid back in to the throttle body.

Yes you need to block the passages in the SE Backplate. Having the tubes go out horizontal is a bit to in-your-face ugly for me.

I plug the backplate by tapping it, then using red loctite and inserting set screws. Then I use a punch and peen the passageway just for good measure.

[1workinman]

Not my setup, but gives you the idea.

I used those fittings but I modified them to use a  90 degree brass fitting that was barb on one end pipe on the other . Worked out ok . I watched a guy build all kinds of odd fittings at a store that made hoses and that is where I got the idea how to build what I wanted with silver solder . Its not show bike material but a lot better than my first attempt lol  I remember who did this  lol . I really like using the black plastic air line that is used at work . Just fits the barb with a little heat and pressure . No need for clamps . I used this approach on both bikes and it works ok including the fitting that Ray posted on the filler neck . I was lucked that the one end threaded into the plastic air line pretty tight .  I for sure used a check valve on the filler neck in the line and the other although they may not be necessary . One thing I do is keep the oil level down to half way hot . None of damn its low top it off to full 

[Johnwesley]

Not my setup, but gives you the idea.

I used those fittings but I modified them to use a  90 degree brass fitting that was barb on one end pipe on the other . Worked out ok . I watched a guy build all kinds of odd fittings at a store that made hoses and that is where I got the idea how to build what I wanted with silver solder . Its not show bike material but a lot better than my first attempt lol  I remember who did this  lol . I really like using the black plastic air line that is used at work . Just fits the barb with a little heat and pressure . No need for clamps . I used this approach on both bikes and it works ok including the fitting that Ray posted on the filler neck . I was lucked that the one end threaded into the plastic air line pretty tight .  I for sure used a check valve on the filler neck in the line and the other although they may not be necessary . One thing I do is keep the oil level down to half way hot . None of damn its low top it off to full

Here's another way to skin the cat, though at this point is a lot of work.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=109185.0

Could end up being cleaner as well.

[Thermodyne]

I don't drill the holes out for threaded nipples any more.

I just drill them to take a 1/4 inch barb fitting and drive it in with some epoxy on it.  The fitting 1s a little union Home Depot sells to join 1/4 plastic tube.  I just cut all but one barb off the end going in the hole.  Works like a champ and way cheaper than threaded hose nipples.

I also like to use clear tube and route the rear over the top, so I can look down and see what its passing. 

And the OP mentioned drilling the support plates to 1/8th inch.  I get better results at 3/16 with a deep chamfer. 

[Hossamania]

I'm not a fan of running hoses up when using gravity to evacuate fluid. Just my uneducated opinion in fluid dynamics.