Tried and True SE Heavy Breather external breather modification.

[838]

I'm going to pull the rockers of my 117", drill out the well holes 1/8", and run the external breathers down to the bottom of the frame. I could do 100% DIY approach, but if somebody who does this, or has done it could respond with some instructions (pictures would be great!)  I'd really appreciate it!

While in there I think I'll do some rocker lockers too.

Thanks!
Travis

[Coyote]

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=84904.msg974341#msg974341

A simple search will yield many threads on this topic.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

There are a few places more than happy to sell you $5 worth of fittings for $50 

[838]

There are a few places more than happy to sell you $5 worth of fittings for $50 

🐟

What are you suggesting? I was planning on using your rocker inserts BTW!

Just curious too... when I install these and take the rocker support plate off to drill the 1/8" holes, can I leave my adjustable pushrods be, and simply re-install everything as if they were solid and jus wait for the lifters to bleed back down before spinning it over... they're brand new lifters.

[Johnwesley]

I think he is saying there is a vendor that sales fittings and hose with a breather for 50 bucks, another $14 and you get a drill and tap. Basically you could buy the stuff from an automotive shop for like $20. Either way it's DIY

There are a few places more than happy to sell you $5 worth of fittings for $50 

🐟

What are you suggesting? I was planning on using your rocker inserts BTW!

Just curious too... when I install these and take the rocker support plate off to drill the 1/8" holes, can I leave my adjustable pushrods be, and simply re-install everything as if they were solid and jus wait for the lifters to bleed back down before spinning it over... they're brand new lifters.

[Hossamania]

Yes, you can leave your pushrods in and bolt the rockers back down.

[Ohio HD]

can I leave my adjustable pushrods be, and simply re-install everything as if they were solid and jus wait for the lifters to bleed back down before spinning it over... they're brand new lifters.

Yes, but turn the motor over so that both valves are closed when doing that cylinder. BEFORE loosening the rocker support.

[No Cents]

   you might also want to give some thought to venting to a catch can instead of just running your vent lines to the bottom of the frame.
   If your engine happens to spit a little oil out...you definitely don't want it to get on your back tire. Bad things could happen. Just saying.

[bobrk1]

I did  mine  on my 12 ultra found  pics  here  drill at tap for 1/8 pipe got fittings  at hardware  store  used  tube  of  Hi temperature  gasket  stuff  to fill  in  passage  that  feed into  throttle  body  to seal it, been  a  few  years  no problem  just  vent  to  ground  did same  on my 97 road  king 

[Coyote]

No need for a catch can IMO. Just route it back down the frame rail. Tubing is bent out at the end to take it away from the bike and it's not going to hit the rear tire if it were to dump.

[attach=0,msg1314075]

[itsafatboy]

when I did this I also went to 1/2 breather bolts in heads EVO size, not sure if it helps but opens up breathers , I also use KRANK vents on heads then just to a crank case filter , I have no oil issues from there on a 116" 11.3 comp.  but I also use S&S rocker boxes different venting setup 

[Rockout Rocker Products]

There are a few places more than happy to sell you $5 worth of fittings for $50 

What are you suggesting? I was planning on using your rocker inserts BTW!   

Also MAKE SURE you blow the oil out of both the breather bolt holes and the rocker support bolt holes. Trapped oil will have nowhere to go & often cracked heads will be the result 

[rigidthumper]

I found rubber tubing that would fit onto the nipples, (3/16" ID, 5/16" OD) then drilled the chrome caps that hide the breather bolts so the rubber tubing would just barely slid through with lubricant ( dish soap) on the tubing. measured the tubing for routeing to a T under the TB , then a single tube down to the frame, just at the intersection between the trans and engine. Once happy with everything, I soaped the upper ends, slid the caps on the tubing a couple inches, then slid the tubing onto the nipple. Once seated, slid the cap along the tube until it was seated. Once the soap dries, tubing will not move unless you force it.

[838]

I found rubber tubing that would fit onto the nipples, (3/16" ID, 5/16" OD) then drilled the chrome caps that hide the breather bolts so the rubber tubing would just barely slid through with lubricant ( dish soap) on the tubing. measured the tubing for routeing to a T under the TB , then a single tube down to the frame, just at the intersection between the trans and engine. Once happy with everything, I soaped the upper ends, slid the caps on the tubing a couple inches, then slid the tubing onto the nipple. Once seated, slid the cap along the tube until it was seated. Once the soap dries, tubing will not move unless you force it.

This is what I was thinking. Does the tubing go over the breather bolts? Can you send a pic of this?

Only downside I'm thinking could be the liquid not flowing downward as quick because the tubes start out perpendicular to the ground from the breather bolts.

[rigidthumper]

Not my setup, but gives you the idea.

[Hossamania]

Not my setup, but gives you the idea.

Would it be possible to drill from the bottom up, use an angled vacuum hose connector for the nipple, and run the hose down instead of out as in the picture? I've not worked on that style yet.

[Coyote]

You must not have looked at the link I posted.

[838]

I like the idea of having the hose connected directly to the breather bolts. Correct me if I'm wrong but by doing it this way one would eliminate the need to bi pass the holes that drain the fluid back in to the throttle body.

[Hossamania]

You must not have looked at the link I posted.

I did not, but it might have been a good idea before I posted! Thanks for not calling me an idiot outright, though I certainly deserve it.

[chaos901]

Working on my education here so possibly off base.  Isn't one of the causes of the oil getting to the air cleaner the fact that the umbrella valves get worn (frayed) around the edges over time and don't seal completely anymore?

Just curious.

[Coyote]

I like the idea of having the hose connected directly to the breather bolts. Correct me if I'm wrong but by doing it this way one would eliminate the need to bi pass the holes that drain the fluid back in to the throttle body.

Yes you need to block the passages in the SE Backplate. Having the tubes go out horizontal is a bit to in-your-face ugly for me.

I plug the backplate by tapping it, then using red loctite and inserting set screws. Then I use a punch and peen the passageway just for good measure.

[1workinman]

Not my setup, but gives you the idea.

I used those fittings but I modified them to use a  90 degree brass fitting that was barb on one end pipe on the other . Worked out ok . I watched a guy build all kinds of odd fittings at a store that made hoses and that is where I got the idea how to build what I wanted with silver solder . Its not show bike material but a lot better than my first attempt lol  I remember who did this  lol . I really like using the black plastic air line that is used at work . Just fits the barb with a little heat and pressure . No need for clamps . I used this approach on both bikes and it works ok including the fitting that Ray posted on the filler neck . I was lucked that the one end threaded into the plastic air line pretty tight .  I for sure used a check valve on the filler neck in the line and the other although they may not be necessary . One thing I do is keep the oil level down to half way hot . None of damn its low top it off to full 

[Johnwesley]

Not my setup, but gives you the idea.

I used those fittings but I modified them to use a  90 degree brass fitting that was barb on one end pipe on the other . Worked out ok . I watched a guy build all kinds of odd fittings at a store that made hoses and that is where I got the idea how to build what I wanted with silver solder . Its not show bike material but a lot better than my first attempt lol  I remember who did this  lol . I really like using the black plastic air line that is used at work . Just fits the barb with a little heat and pressure . No need for clamps . I used this approach on both bikes and it works ok including the fitting that Ray posted on the filler neck . I was lucked that the one end threaded into the plastic air line pretty tight .  I for sure used a check valve on the filler neck in the line and the other although they may not be necessary . One thing I do is keep the oil level down to half way hot . None of damn its low top it off to full

Here's another way to skin the cat, though at this point is a lot of work.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=109185.0

Could end up being cleaner as well.

[Thermodyne]

I don't drill the holes out for threaded nipples any more.

I just drill them to take a 1/4 inch barb fitting and drive it in with some epoxy on it.  The fitting 1s a little union Home Depot sells to join 1/4 plastic tube.  I just cut all but one barb off the end going in the hole.  Works like a champ and way cheaper than threaded hose nipples.

I also like to use clear tube and route the rear over the top, so I can look down and see what its passing. 

And the OP mentioned drilling the support plates to 1/8th inch.  I get better results at 3/16 with a deep chamfer. 

[Hossamania]

I'm not a fan of running hoses up when using gravity to evacuate fluid. Just my uneducated opinion in fluid dynamics.

[88b]

Perfect timing post as I'm about to do a friends 110 next week .

[98fxstc]

I'm not a fan of running hoses up when using gravity to evacuate fluid. Just my uneducated opinion in fluid dynamics.

[838]

You must not have looked at the link I posted.

What size hose barbs were used here?

[Coyote]

 [attach=0,msg1328638]

[838]

[attach=0,msg1328638]

Thank you

[pwmorris]

No need for a catch can IMO. Just route it back down the frame rail. Tubing is bent out at the end to take it away from the bike and it's not going to hit the rear tire if it were to dump.

[attach=0,msg1314075]

Sure of that?
Not my experience being around hundred of dyno pulls using blower fans.
Put that set up on the dyno with a big 100 mph fan on it-up front and low near under frame as in real world.
Unhook you're drain vent point for test, and watch oil fan out and spray in a nice wide pattern immediately as it leaves that tube-straight back.
Wind velocity is pointed straight at you so, depending on speed and wind, as soon as the fluid exits that angled tube it's gonna spray straight back, not out at an angle, and fan out in a "V" pattern...and contact that rear tire. I've seen it from catastrophic engine failure standing right next to the dyno, where oil went thru the head at failure, into the exhaust port then out the exhaust pipe exit (several inches away/outward from the rear tire). Tire/rim was black from oil as well as a couple feet of the rear of the dyno, left and right of the exit point. Even if your pipe misses most of the rear tire, if it hits some of it, as it rotates it will cover the entire tire.

Get a catch can, which is mandated from every legit racing organization in the World. Protecting you, and your fellow riders-especially under adverse conditions such as rain, or around a curve at speed.

https://www.featool.com/cfd-toolbox/

[Coyote]

Sure of that?

Works for me. Don't ride it on a dyno tho.    Not on a track either.

If your motor blows up, I doubt a catch can is gonna keep things clean.

[turboprop]

No need for a catch can IMO. Just route it back down the frame rail. Tubing is bent out at the end to take it away from the bike and it's not going to hit the rear tire if it were to dump.

[attach=0,msg1314075]

I really like your setup. Very clean. I may incorporate elements of this into the TC124 in my blue/white FXR.

[Ohio HD]

Sure of that?

Works for me. Don't ride it on a dyno tho.    Not on a track either.

If your motor blows up, I doubt a catch can is gonna keep things clean.

Yeah, a total dump of oil would just fill and overflow my catch can in seconds. The value of using in my case, it catches little droplets that make their way to the end of the hose.

[FSG]

Sure of that?

Works for me. Don't ride it on a dyno tho.    Not on a track either.

If your motor blows up, I doubt a catch can is gonna keep things clean.

yeah .... nah ...... just need a bigger catch can   

one of these 'tow behind' models would do well, just need better tires   

[Ohio HD]

Sure of that?

Works for me. Don't ride it on a dyno tho.    Not on a track either.

If your motor blows up, I doubt a catch can is gonna keep things clean.

yeah .... nah ...... just need a bigger catch can   

one of these 'tow behind' models would do well, just need better tires   

Ya got a part number for that catch can Billy Bob?     

[Coyote]

I really like your setup. Very clean. I may incorporate elements of this into the TC124 in my blue/white FXR.

That's my 2012 bike and probably the 4th generation of this mod.  The original idea came from Jim. His used a chrome tube (made from a toilet stub tube from Home Depot) that went straight down under the frame. I was a bit concerned about where the oil dropped so we messed around and decided the best place was to route the oil as far back as possible and then outboard.

The tubing on my '12 is alum that was bent with a hand tubing bender and them polished to a chrome like finish.

That picture was taken a couple years later so it's lost some of it's shine.

Must have got this motor right because it never leaves a drop on the garage floor... just the slightest bit a vapor around the tip of the tube.  If it ever does puke, I would guess there will be less oil on the rear tire than if it came out the breather.

LOL

[turboprop]

My friend Jim (Hop Sing) was good stuff. I consider myself very fortunate to have gotten to hang with him a few times. He is missed.

[Don D]

Good dude and very much missed

[pwmorris]

No need for a catch can IMO. Just route it back down the frame rail. Tubing is bent out at the end to take it away from the bike and it's not going to hit the rear tire if it were to dump.

[attach=0,msg1314075]

I really like your setup. Very clean. I may incorporate elements of this into the TC124 in my blue/white FXR.

Ed,
Are you saying your bikes are going to dump to the street?

[pwmorris]

Sure of that?

Works for me. Don't ride it on a dyno tho.    Not on a track either.

If your motor blows up, I doubt a catch can is gonna keep things clean.

Agree to disagree....
Check your dyno section-
Thousands of street bikes making pulls on the dyno on this site. Don't ride it on the dyno...lol..... It is merely a close simulation to street (or strip) as you can get under load at various RPMS to mimic real world...  so you don't have to go to the track, and you can be safe and secure at home and get the best tune you can from your bike. That's it. Simply a tool, and one of many.
Check out  "NoCents" Ray's muck he posted and pulled out of his catch can on a healthy motor. Yup, that's junk you are spraying back there. I've seen it many other times as well.
His oily muck came out of a newer Twin Cam bagger thru the Rocker Boxes UMBRELLA VALVES, then heads after a long hard day of freeway riding. It has a 124" motor in it, and I will say that a stock or near stock Twin Cam should not have this much muck coming out, but it shows how much the umbrella valves can/can't do to control blow by.
It was drained from his CATCH CAN, and is if a line "T" was running down to drain at his rear tire, guess where it would dump to?
This is from a healthy newer Twin Cam motor. I am calling bullshit if you think more oil cant come out of various V Twin set Ups- from a sumping motor, worn motor, overfilled motor or motor that experienced catastrophic failure.
Oil overflow of tank, sumping, or other fixable issues can also dump a nice spray from a line after a heavy day of riding. Fact.
All kinds of scenarios could cause oil dumping....
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softail-models/622077-oil-spray-on-right-side-oil-tank.html

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/1089131-oil-everywhere.html

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engine-mechanical-topics/1110180-oil-leaking-from-breather-hose.html

Ever seen Jr. Dragsters at the track? Those kids really fly! Some even go more than 60 mph!
All, all require a catch can......why? Safety, that's why.
http://sportsman.nhra.com/2002/sportsman/news/January/011801.html
And yeah, I've dumped oil on a track, costing me 100 bucks in an oil down fee, when I did a wheel stand and snapped an oil line slamming to the ground and riding it out. They simply followed me to the pits by my "line in the sand" I left. I was lucky I didn't go down, as I luckily was going in a straight line oiling my entire rear end and tire.

From National Hot Rod Association

"Crankcase, motor, and all tanks containing fluids must have vent tubes
routed to catch can or have a non-spill breather system on motorcycle. Active crankcase evacuation systems are not permitted."

Look, I don't give a "Potty mouth" what anyone else does-some guys I know don't have insurance on their bikes cause they don't think they ever will get stolen, or that they will ever get in a crash.
It could happen for far simpler reasons than a full blown motor as well.
It can happen a little bit at a time.
Read about threads where guys who have over filled their oil tank, had sumping, or other issues who said when they stop after a long ride with just the "T" connectors hanging off just below their air cleaner, when they stopped, there was oil mist all over the side of their bike. If you run that connector down and exit just in front of your rear tire, and you have a poor running bike, and are on a long ride, where the hell do you think that oil is gonna go?

I run a simple catch can on my front down tube, vented to atmosphere, but thats my choice. Everyone makes there own.

[FSG]

you missed the very important

Works for me.

and

Look, I don't give a "Potty mouth" what anyone else does

your posts suggest otherwise

[kink04fxd]

My 69 Triumph 650 ran the breather hose along the rear fender and dumped at the fender tip behind the tire. [attach=0]

[pwmorris]

you missed the very important

Works for me.

and

Look, I don't give a "Potty mouth" what anyone else does

your posts suggest otherwise

Love the "support" for and going to bat for your Buddy...expect no less- (BTW, love the trash can LOL pile on) 
Nice avoidance of the Street, dyno, and track evidence, as well.
My posts suggest Moderators (you and the "crew"), who post their own stuff, as to stuff like safety issues....are held to a higher standard than "Billy Bob" poster. Much higher, actually as lots of guys here on this site are not "experts" like you and Coyote.
Many are simply looking for a solution to something going on with there bike...a  "what a guy should do", to a novice reading your stuff. Trust me, Mods are held to a higher standard.
Many are new members, or surfing, and see that you guys are "in charge" or "running the show", and hold your posts in much higher regard. Maybe they run their "new bikes to them" as a used bike they bought from someone, don't know the history, don't know how much oil to put in them, or how to solve simple blow by issues. You show pictures saying "IMO" dumping a oil vent line to the ground if fine, and it says to a novice...."the HTT mods do it, sounds good to me!
I sure hope your freewheeling advice doesn't come back to bite you in the ass-
Best of luck with it.

[Heinz]

you missed the very important

Works for me.

and

Look, I don't give a "Potty mouth" what anyone else does

your posts suggest otherwise

Love the "support" for and going to bat for your Buddy...expect no less- (BTW, love the trash can LOL pile on) 
Nice avoidance of the Street, dyno, and track evidence, as well.
My posts suggest Moderators (you and the "crew"), who post their own stuff, as to stuff like safety issues....are held to a higher standard than "Billy Bob" poster. Much higher, actually as lots of guys here on this site are not "experts" like you and Coyote.
Many are simply looking for a solution to something going on with there bike...a  "what a guy should do", to a novice reading your stuff. Trust me, Mods are held to a higher standard.
Many are new members, or surfing, and see that you guys are "in charge" or "running the show", and hold your posts in much higher regard. Maybe they run their "new bikes to them" as a used bike they bought from someone, don't know the history, don't know how much oil to put in them, or how to solve simple blow by issues. You show pictures saying "IMO" dumping a oil vent line to the ground if fine, and it says to a novice...."the HTT mods do it, sounds good to me!
I sure hope your freewheeling advice doesn't come back to bite you in the ass-
Best of luck with it.

I personally have learned my lesson about venting to atmosphere without a catch can. You don't have to actually have an accident or drop your bike with oil on the tire to have severe detrimental effects of small amounts of oil spray getting on your tire or rear brake. For me I started noticing that I just wasn't getting what I'm used to for rear brake performance. This took thousands of miles  to get to this it didn't just happen  as soon as I put the vent in. I wasn't getting the stopping performance that I was before I began venting without a catch can. I pulled my brake pads and noticed there was a film of oil on the pads that was affecting the performance. I also could see I had some residue on my chrome rear wheel that didn't used to be there to that degree. It was clearly evident it came from the discharge of the vent. The oil residue had seeped into the layer of brake pads so I had no choice but to replace them. Once I put in a catch can the brake performance was noticeably better and I wasn't getting the residue on the rear wheel anymore.

[No Cents]

   ...it seems there are two opinions here. The rider has to make his/her decision on how they want to do it.
Either vent to the atmosphere and take the risk of possibly getting oil on the rear tire or brakes...or play it safe and vent to a catch can and remove the possibility of getting oil on the rear tire or brakes.  hummm   
   I'll go with the safe side.

[locker55]

Can we see a show of catch cans. Besides the tow behind one that FSG showed us. I believe all built motors (when hot rodding them) will build up blow by. This would make any and all oil spray anything behind the end of the hose being wind driven. Lets face the simple fact of why some of us vent out is because we don't want it on the side of the bike from the air filter. So if coming from filter you can bet it will come out of that hose end by the tire or not....lol
I remember someone making a nice one out of pvc and ran it down along the frame. one that could be emptied if I recall right.
Thanks for all the good info shared.

[speedzter]

An old pic' but still using the same breathers, currently on a 120 custom.
I get a very small amount of oil residue nearby from vapor, but never had a drop leak out.
Most of what comes out is obviously water vapor .
A catch can is the best idea, but this has worked for me.

[attach=0]

[Hossamania]

 I just vent to the ground under the motor. A little oil leaking from the tranny makes a little blow-by leaking out the tube kind of minor...

[attach=0]

[Hossamania]

No Cents had a nice post on his catch can that looked nice. Perhaps he'll post it up again. There have been quite a few good solutions posted over the years. It's been on my list to put one on, but then so has fixing that tranny leak for ten years. A guy has to have a list...

[Ohio HD]

This where I have my catch can, same place Ray mounted his. Works well. In the bottom pic you can see what mostly come out after a drain. In reality the hot air expelled from the heads through the breathers evaporates most or all of the liquid that shows up in the catch can on longer rides


[attach=0]

[attach=1]

[attach=2]

[locker55]

speedster it's seems to be the only thing you stopped is not going back to piston. still on the side of bike is same as coming from filter.
Hoss yours is the danger one (oil on tire)and messy one that I'm trying to get away from. But I always use the cardboard trick on the lift and when working on bike or car. Old shower curtain is a easy clean up to.
Ohio Yours looks well thought out. How often does it need to be drained? And it looks like a ca phil item that can be bought.
I'm in the middle of doing mine and have the old style backing plate I'm using ill try to show pics when I get the grand design down..lol

Thanks for posting. I hope more do to give more ways.

[No Cents]

    I made my backing plate and intake...but it is the same theory as Coyote's modification to his backing plate for venting using the barbs.
    I drain my catch can every time I fill the tank up. Not much comes out...but that way at least I know the catch can is empty. And I learned over time that the filter on top of the catch can can become soaked with the vapor mist and become a little clogged not letting it breath to it's full potential. I eliminated the filter on mine.


[attach=0,msg1329723]

[attach=1,msg1329723]

[attach=2,msg1329723]

[locker55]

Ok I see that the catch can you guys have two hose hook ups. One for each head. I would think one can tee it by breather and only hook up one side also. I like the no filter No Cents runs. Filter is just one more thing to take care of. Also No Cents is that the same as Ohio's just a different sticker..Lol
Thank you guys for showing pics. If the directions don't have pics then it's harder to understand for some of us slower thinkers.

[No Cents]

  yes...they are the same catch cans.
It's called a Mini Jaz.

[kd]

Here's a few pics of a similar and simple setup I use. The pipe is chrome toilet / sink supply line and compression fittings from the breather base. It is copper and easy to form all of the turns with an inexpensive plumbing pipe bender. There is a length of rubber hose to the frame mounted aluminum catch-can (I salvaged from a wrecked 5.7 Ram Hemi pickup). The hose stops the rubber mounted engine movement from reaching the frame mounted can.  I forget the make of the catch-can but easy to search.  The pipe at the catch can end is all stainless also salvaged from an air system header.  I just used the bends and lengths that I needed.

The one pic I have included is an engine on my bench to show the engine side hookups.  It is the same method Coyote shows.  The other pics are the installed unit I described that I use on my RGU.  If you expand the pics you can zoom in on the pipes and follow them. 

I will add that after No Cents recognized his problem with the vent filter getting dirty and restricting the air flow I put my catch can discharge line vented straight down.  The catch can has a stainless wire (like steel wool) separator in the top intake and outlet position that removes the fluid from the air that passes thorough it and discharges it into the can. The non filtered vent line has never dripped because the separation is so good and I do run it hard for long distances.  On the truck I salvaged it from the vent line went into the breather as per EPA requirements. If I get caught venting to atmosphere I will put it to the breather now that I know there is no discharge.

[No Cents]

  if anyone is thinking of using a Mini Jaz catch can...they come with two options for inlet sizes. Either with 1/4" inlets, or 3/8" inlets. I run the 3/8" hoses on mine.
  I believe Jeg's still sells them.

[Dan89flstc]

 
Either vent to the atmosphere and take the risk of possibly getting oil on the rear tire or brakes...or play it safe and vent to a catch can and remove the possibility of getting oil on the rear tire or brakes.  hummm   
   I'll go with the safe side.

People have been venting overboard without catch cans since the beginning, I have never heard of anyone having a problem with the oil getting on a rear tire.

Common sense prevails here, don`t route the hose so that the oil will get on the tire.... 

[98fxstc]

People have been venting overboard without catch cans since the beginning, I have never heard of anyone having a problem with the oil getting on a rear tire.

Common sense prevails here, don`t route the hose so that the oil will get on the tire.... 

I thought that as well but have decided to go with a catch can.

I personally have learned my lesson about venting to atmosphere without a catch can. You don't have to actually have an accident or drop your bike with oil on the tire to have severe detrimental effects of small amounts of oil spray getting on your tire or rear brake. For me I started noticing that I just wasn't getting what I'm used to for rear brake performance. This took thousands of miles  to get to this it didn't just happen  as soon as I put the vent in. I wasn't getting the stopping performance that I was before I began venting without a catch can. I pulled my brake pads and noticed there was a film of oil on the pads that was affecting the performance. I also could see I had some residue on my chrome rear wheel that didn't used to be there to that degree. It was clearly evident it came from the discharge of the vent. The oil residue had seeped into the layer of brake pads so I had no choice but to replace them. Once I put in a catch can the brake performance was noticeably better and I wasn't getting the residue on the rear wheel anymore.

Not a lot of work or dollars to avoid the possibility of trouble.
Oil is not good on engine mounts either.

[locker55]

The Mini Jaz is not able to be sold to a calif address. Good old Calif, what we have to do and pay to have the good weather.
I will have to send it to a friend and he can send it to me.....
Also good info No Cents. I'll run the 3/8th also.
So does the mini jaz have to be ordered that's size or is it just the fittings?

[No Cents]

      same catch cans...just different size inlets for your hoses.
[attach=0,msg1330015]

[Heinz]

      same catch cans...just different size inlets for your hoses.
[attach=0,msg1330015]

Has anyone tried to mount this style of catch can at the rear fender anywhere so that the saddlebag will still fit on? I'm wondering what catch can will work for those venting the oil pan.

[kd]

There are tons of catch cans on ebay in all sizes and shapes.  I "expect" an oil pan catch can would not need to be as large due to the difference in how only a little little air will move out of the pan. 

[turboprop]

      same catch cans...just different size inlets for your hoses.
[attach=0,msg1330015]

Has anyone tried to mount this style of catch can at the rear fender anywhere so that the saddlebag will still fit on? I'm wondering what catch can will work for those venting the oil pan.

One of my TC124 FXRs has an oil pan that is vented to a catch can but it is mounted on the front/left frame down tube. The heads are also vented to the same can. No issues.

[locker55]

I was able to order a jaz can from jaz. It was CARiD that could not send one to a CA address.
The guy at jaz and I laughed at the fact that jaz is in CA and another business could not send to CA.
anyway one is coming in the mail and I went with the 3/8th.

[sfmichael]

good info here - thanks Coyote, Themodyne, Ray...didn't read all the posts but enough to see the value 

[dynabagger]

My catch can. Picked up the can on ebay. Comes in other colors as well. The clamp I made and the fittings and abrasion/heat resistant hose from an auto parts store.

I feel that being able to see any changes in the amount of discharge is a worthwhile benefit. Telling of a change in ring seal quality or other issues.

[kd]

Nice job.  Now you need to look into an oil filter relocation kit to save that hassle and mess.  There are several choices out there but I have this one and love it ......


HTTP://www.mooresensible.com/harley-davidson-touring--fxr.html

https://www.mooresensible.com/harley-davidson-touring--fxr.html

[No Cents]

Nice job.  Now you need to look into an oil filter relocation kit to save that hassle and mess.  There are several choices out there but I have this one and love it ......


HTTP://www.mooresensible.com/harley-davidson-touring--fxr.html

    [attach=0,msg1331351]
   X2...I absolutely love mine too!   

[Bagger]

I've vented to atmosphere close to 115,000 miles without catch can.  Is there a particular mileage when oil will become noticeable?

[bump]

If your bike in dumping so much oil that it is making the back tire slick, you have way more that a crankcase problem.

[locker55]

I believe most of us do a catch can for a mist not a dump....I'm I right here??
I get a mist from air filter that can be seen after hot rodding the bike. (a lot of quick starts and back off's).
All the dumps I have ever seen has been to much oil for a catch can. Or at least looked like it after the dump.
Most dumps I seen is because of something went wrong or motor was built with cutting corners.
I just want the mist to be gone so I don't have to clean it off the bike.
All Haley's blow by. They are designed to do this back through the breather. Running a opened filter will show the mist quicker and a modified motor will show it even more. I believe this is why most stock covers wrap around the filter. this will catch most mist and make drip after setting. a mist won't be so noticeable this way. And if one can see stock set up puts that blow by right in the intake port.
Get a electric bike so we don't have to worry about this oil. Them jump scooters are pretty quick....lol
Then it would be a cord can not a catch can.....lol

[Ohio HD]

I believe most of us do a catch can for a mist not a dump....I'm I right here??

For me, this is the 100% reason I use one. Either oil or water vapor, it tends to get on the bike and let road grime build up on the frame. I'm not a clean the bike every time I ride it guy, so it keeps that area of the bikes frame less grungy.

[Leed]

I believe most of us do a catch can for a mist not a dump....I'm I right here??

For me, this is the 100% reason I use one. Either oil or water vapor, it tends to get on the bike and let road grime build up on the frame. I'm not a clean the bike every time I ride it guy, so it keeps that area of the bikes frame less grungy.

  Before I reran the breather line to a catch can the oil mist on the frame made it really grungy.

[aabikrman]

I'm with Paul on all this.....

Catch can is best and at a minimum I would run a hose and vent behind the rear tire.  I have one of my bikes set up temporarily with a hose routed under the swingarm and behind the saddlebag so any misting/dumping/venting occurs behind the tire. 

Why take a chance ?

[planemech]

anyone ever try to install a venturi in the exhaust and vent to that? Its done on deleted diesels that way, not sure if it would work in a bike application or not.

[speedzter]

I have seen it done on an Evo with Vac U Pan styles one way valves.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-85700

[locker55]

This is a 06 stock backing plate. I taped & installed brass fittings. Inside I grinded down the brass and cut a V in it so oil will not build up in there before it works it way out. I plugged the ends with a plastic cap. used a oil base urethane (used on auto windshields) to seal and glue the caps in. ran my hose from a brass T down hill to a catch can. (I bought three catch cans and decided on this one, even bought the jazz like no cents). I made a mount that went to the bottom and top hole. I taped a set screw with a sharp point to hold the hose in place on the inlet fitting. the hose goes quite a ways in the can fitting. painted bracket and hose clamps black. This is my job completed. Thanks for everyone posting pics and showing your lay out. I believe this helps a lot of us out here get more of the project when one can see it.

[locker55]

more

[locker55]

thanks again for all info.
Sorry about some of the pics.....

[98fxstc]

like the hose clamps
what are they called ?

[tdrglide]

I've been using a small compressed air filter housing like this from mcmaster for years now as a catch can. No filter element. Oil mist and water condenses on inside of bowl. Run outlet down past trany vent. Easy to clean. Hidden behind left side cover.

[Leed]

I've been using a small compressed air filter housing like this from mcmaster for years now as a catch can. No filter element. Oil mist and water condenses on inside of bowl. Run outlet down past trany vent. Easy to clean. Hidden behind left side cover.

Very clever!  I like it. 

[tdrglide]

8287K12
Be sure and throw away the filter element inside. Not wanted. All else remains.

[locker55]

98fxstc
The hose clamps are the solid ones that use a crimping tool. They came sliver but I painted them black.
Harley uses them on the cross over line on the tank. You can get them from Harley or Grainger. They look cleaner then the screw ones. I used the screw ones on the mounting bracket so it can be moved when oil is changed.

tdrglide
How often do you empty the trap?  I had one of them on a on board air system on a jeep I built. It ran a York compressor and would put out some oil. I like the set up but it looks like a little work to me.
I like this set up because it can be emptied with a throw of a valve.
Like no cents says in this post he just empties with fuel fill ups. I like the thought of that.

Thanks again for all the showing. If it don't have the picture I can't put it together....Right???

[tdrglide]

Since I have to remove the side cover, I check it maybe once every few tank fulls of gas when at home. Before I take off from the house. Or in the morning when on a trip. You get a feel for it after awhile. More often when weather is cool and damp and short trips. Less often when hot and dry. It's mostly water condensate. If full and you don't check it'll maybe leave a couple drops of water on your garage floor. Only remember that happening a couple times. I've done 700mi days in the desert southwest in summer, interstate speeds, and only have maybe a half a teaspoon of oil in the morning. I've also done a tank full of gas in the Pacific Northwest in March and it's maybe 1/3 full, mostly water.

[98fxstc]

98fxstc
The hose clamps are the solid ones that use a crimping tool. They came sliver but I painted them black.
Harley uses them on the cross over line on the tank. You can get them from Harley or Grainger. They look cleaner then the screw ones. I used the screw ones on the mounting bracket so it can be moved when oil is changed.

I realized they were the same as oem but I hadn't seen them in black before
they look better
good job 

[No Cents]

   these are the hose clamps I use now. They are for fuel injector lines and they do a much better job of clamping than the radiator style clamps do...plus they don't dig down into your hose like the radiator style does.
Advance Auto and Auto Zone both carry them.

[attach=0,msg1335890]

[kd]

    and reusable.   

[FSG]

I use Stainless T-Bolt Clamps whenever/wherever possible these days

[kd]

FSG, I haven't found those in sizes small enough for fuel hose etc..  Do you have a supplier or do you just use them for the larger sizes?

[838]

can I leave my adjustable pushrods be, and simply re-install everything as if they were solid and jus wait for the lifters to bleed back down before spinning it over... they're brand new lifters.

Yes, but turn the motor over so that both valves are closed when doing that cylinder. BEFORE loosening the rocker support.

Would I need to slowly, re-torque these back down with both valves closed, to allow the lifters to bleed? And (if yes) I'd imagine wait until your first one is finished bleeding before spinning the wheel to close both valves on the the second head.

[No Cents]

   I personally would collapse the adjustable p/rods and start over with them..."after" the rocker arm supports are torqued down to spec first.
   Adjusting p/rods is easy and it doesn't take long to do. This way you know when the lifters have bled off when you can spin them in your fingers and you know it's okay so you can rotate the engine over to adjust the other cylinders p/rods. Why take the chance of bending a valve because a lifter hasn't bled down. 

[838]

      same catch cans...just different size inlets for your hoses.
[attach=0,msg1330015]

Think I'm going to go this route. Are these both "inlets" on the catch can? So you are able to run a direct line from each breather? How did you mount this to the frame?

[No Cents]

   yes...you can run a line from each breather individually to the catch can. The catch can comes with a bracket that allows you to use a clamp on each end of the supplied bracket to the down tube. The two mounting clamps need to be purchased separately.

[locker55]

No cents,
I see you don't run a filter on top of catch can. does the filter clog up fast? I like the fact that your set up can breath freely when or if there will be a big blow by.
Seems my bike likes to blow some good amount sometimes. not always just sometimes when I'm on it hard.
It's mostly condensation. It's funny about oil, a small drop looks like a lot. and when in a 100 mile an hour wind it looks like even more.

[No Cents]

   what I found was the filter does get a little clogged as the breathers vent thru the catch can. The moisture going thru the filter does build up and sticks to the filter media... this is why I did away with mine. I wanted my breathers to have no restrictions.

[838]

   what I found was the filter does get a little clogged as the breathers vent thru the catch can. The moisture going thru the filter does build up and sticks to the filter media... this is why I did away with mine. I wanted my breathers to have no restrictions.

Just got this in the mail. How does yours "breathe" without the filter?

[No Cents]

  there is a picture of how I modified mine in reply #52. It now breathes out the tube instead of thru a filter.

[838]

    I made my backing plate and intake...but it is the same theory as Coyote's modification to his backing plate for venting using the barbs.
    I drain my catch can every time I fill the tank up. Not much comes out...but that way at least I know the catch can is empty. And I learned over time that the filter on top of the catch can can become soaked with the vapor mist and become a little clogged not letting it breath to it's full potential. I eliminated the filter on mine.


[attach=0,msg1329723]

[attach=1,msg1329723]

[attach=2,msg1329723]

What type of hose did you use that can handle the heat so close to the cylinder and header?

[No Cents]

  braided stainless

[Johnwesley]

I don't drill the holes out for threaded nipples any more.

I just drill them to take a 1/4 inch barb fitting and drive it in with some epoxy on it.  The fitting 1s a little union Home Depot sells to join 1/4 plastic tube.  I just cut all but one barb off the end going in the hole.  Works like a champ and way cheaper than threaded hose nipples.

I also like to use clear tube and route the rear over the top, so I can look down and see what its passing. 

And the OP mentioned drilling the support plates to 1/8th inch.  I get better results at 3/16 with a deep chamfer. 

Decided to use your interference fit idea and it's working well. A little epoxy for reassurance.

[Coyote]

Only takes 10 mins to tap them. 

[98fxstc]

I don't drill the holes out for threaded nipples any more.

I just drill them to take a 1/4 inch barb fitting and drive it in with some epoxy on it.  The fitting 1s a little union Home Depot sells to join 1/4 plastic tube.  I just cut all but one barb off the end going in the hole.  Works like a champ and way cheaper than threaded hose nipples.

I also like to use clear tube and route the rear over the top, so I can look down and see what its passing. 

And the OP mentioned drilling the support plates to 1/8th inch.  I get better results at 3/16 with a deep chamfer. 

Good idea to use clear if routing over the top to see what is not passing