Marelli Fuel Injection Question

[ckwizard]

Helping a friend with his 1999 Road King and we just did a 95 inch big bore kit with S&S gear drive cams while doing a rebuild.
Question...do we try and tune the Marelli injection (Not sure anything is still available) or save the investment and just convert to a CV carb and be done with it?
Ken

[Hillside Motorcycle]

As long as the MM is correctly working, tune with it with Direct Link.

[rigidthumper]

^^^ If you have anyone nearby with a Techno Research Direct Link tuning setup, license keys for MM ECMs are still available.
If not, a proper carb setup serves well & reliably.

[Deye76]

If you plan on keeping the bike, the answer to any Mirelli injection questions, is dump it.  Your going to continually throw more money at it, and when it fails in the middle of nowhere, the costs only go up.   

[rhuff]

If you plan on keeping the bike, the answer to any Mirelli injection questions, is dump it.  Your going to continually throw more money at it, and when it fails in the middle of nowhere, the costs only go up.   

Agree.  I have a buddy who has spent more money over the years on MM than if he would have just gone carb.  It's left him stranded several times in the last 10 years in the middle of nowhere, states from home.

[fbn ent]

T-Max has a product....

[Hossamania]

Were it mine, and I was going to the effort of big bore and gear drive cams, I would make the switch to carb, DTT or Dyna ignition. While a carb is not as perfect as a good fuel injection system (MM is not), it is simpler to tune and troubleshoot from a layman's point of view.

[Ajayrk]

T-Max has a product....

I use that product on my M/M.  Requires O2 sensors and a modified relay that comes with the kit.

[ckwizard]

Haven't heard of Direct Link...sounds interesting.
Is it like the old stage one download the dealers use to do?

[ckwizard]

The info on the TechnoResearch website shows no support for the m&m injection.
2001 Delphi is as far back as it goes.
Carb is looking better.

[deejay99]

When Bill Bishop did my 99 he used the Direct Link and it's still running great. I know...I'm lucky and I just jinxed myself.

[Coyote]

The info on the TechnoResearch website shows no support for the m&m injection.
2001 Delphi is as far back as it goes.
Carb is looking better.

You need a Centurion system to do MM. They still support it with keys that allow the tuning.  I still have a some MM keys in my shop.

http://technoresearch.info/centurion-super-pro-plus/

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

The only Problem with Direct Link is:
#1. The Key is EXPENSIVE ($325 - Ouch) and,
#2. They (Technoresearch) prefer NOT to support MM if at all possible - Referred to at the "Marelli Factor". 
#3.  The best tune is done with the 02 Installation Kit which some shops may not have.

There are a few Piggy-Back Systems that work well on the MM - From experience.
#1. COBRA Fi2000
#2. Dynojet PC-III (if you can find one) - Works well with downloaded tune

Harley-Davidson
#1. If you can locate the older SERT, it works well on a Dyno but uses a 9-Pin-DB9 Interface - So, it's slow. BUT, effective

Carb Change Over
#1. Cost to change everything over is about $1,200
#2. Time - About four hours for the experienced Technician

Other Options:
Replace the MM with Delphi (01-04)
Thunder Max converts the entire system - $2,500

[Deye76]

T-Max has a product....

I use that product on my M/M.  Requires O2 sensors and a modified relay that comes with the kit.

= $$$$$, then when the lines in the tank leak, and the MAP, & TPS sensors need replaced, you just spent more than a carb conversion, and your head hurts really bad. Good grief, use the search function on this subject dating back 15+ years.

[ckwizard]

Appreciate all the info guys.
Thanks

[Sinker]

I have a 2000 Road King Classic with the Marelli FI. It also has the 95" kit and S&S gear driven cams. I couldn't stand all the backfiring so just had it tuned about 3 months ago using the DynoJet Power Series. Not sure how it is installed but it really cleaned up the backfiring and gave me some nice power gains. If you want I can take a pic of the box.

[PC_Hater]

The 1999 MM fuel tank internal fuel lines are steel, they will not leak!
It does mean that the carb conversion is more difficult, getting those steel lines out so you can fit the Pingel converter for the fuel tap is a difficult job for a normal person.
I suppose if you have access to some really really nice tools it will be easier.

Take a sharp intake of breath and choose between fitting a carb or one of the EFI options.
Hint: the carb conversion is a lot cheaper...

And this should be the link to what I did with pdf instructions:-
https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,97813.msg1141073.html#msg1141073

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

The 1999 MM fuel tank internal fuel lines are steel, they will not leak!

Good write up.

1. We found the easiest way to deal with the 99' Lines is to use a Dremmel with a 1/4" Barrel Cutting Bit (That is a TOUGH BIT!) and Smooth it out with a Barrel Fine Cutting Bit. We also use these to remove some fin area on the Jug so the Cruise Control Adapter for the Mikuni fits and they can keep their cruise it if they wish.

2. As for the Wiring, the OEM HARNESS IGN HD#32435-99 is listed as "Discontinued". But, a link at the bottom of the parts page allows the Counter Person to procure one from a H-D Vendor - NAMZ (They have to be a Distributor - Not all H-D Dealers have an account).

Makes it a DREAM to just remove the EFI Overlay Harness and install the New one - Cuts time by over an hour easily! Allows the DTT Module to display DTC's (6 of them) using the Spedo DTC Indicator as well.

3. I see you have  "The 1999 FLTRI throttle and idle cables are too short. In the end I used throttle and idle cables that are 44" long. Barnett Throttle Cable 12" over stock length = 44" pn: 101-30-30015-12 Barnett Idle Cable 12" over stock length = 44" pn: 101-30-40015-12"

- I have yet to have to replace either on any retrofit. Not say you didn't have to, but on the 10 or so i've done, I have not.

4. As you, the Daytona Twin Tec TC88 ignition setup, position and the jet needle E-ring location seems to vary from build to build.

You would think these setting would be "standard". When tuning on a Dyno it seems everyone is different requiring it's own setting for best operation. Just last month I did one with the most inconsistent setting on paper that produced 93 HP and 107 TQ - Go figure!

I did have one with the slightest ping under full load acceleration which I could not get out. The Customer said he hadn't heard it since he began using 93 Octane on his second tank. DTT said it may have been an anomaly in the reluctor wheel.



As for working on the Mikuni, There is an inexpensive Service Tool Kit ($50 maybe) you can get from Mikuni, Snap-On or MAC Man that makes it so much easier.

[Deye76]

"The 1999 MM fuel tank internal fuel lines are steel, they will not leak!"

Ok, I'll give you that one. What about:
Engine Temperature Sensor
(IAT) Intake Air Temperature (IAT) [Kit]
IAC) Idle Air Speed Control Actuator Sensor
Fuel Pump Assembly
Fuel Pump Regulator
Fuel Filter
Nothing in the list cheap. And, can the parts be easily found? I wouldn't want to be in the middle of Iowa, have any of the above fail.
2 cents.

[rbabos]

"The 1999 MM fuel tank internal fuel lines are steel, they will not leak!"

Ok, I'll give you that one. What about:
Engine Temperature Sensor
(IAT) Intake Air Temperature (IAT) [Kit]
IAC) Idle Air Speed Control Actuator Sensor
Fuel Pump Assembly
Fuel Pump Regulator
Fuel Filter
Nothing in the list cheap. And, can the parts be easily found? I wouldn't want to be in the middle of Iowa, have any of the above fail.
2 cents.

I might add a dealer in every town won't be much good to you either.
Ron

[cheech]

2. As for the Wiring, the OEM HARNESS IGN HD#32435-99 is listed as "Discontinued". But, a link at the bottom of the parts page allows the Counter Person to procure one from a H-D Vendor - NAMZ (They have to be a Distributor - Not all H-D Dealers have an account).

Or any Drag Specialties dealer for the namz

As for working on the Mikuni, There is an inexpensive Service Tool Kit ($50 maybe) you can get from Mikuni, Snap-On or MAC Man that makes it so much easier.

Such as this?
https://autoplicity.com/8567775-mikuni-mk-404-mikuni-tool-kit-mk-404?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn9XT1KWJ5gIVzoCfCh1dAwjvEAQYASABEgJEqPD_BwE
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