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Faffing with rear direction indicators

Started by PC_Hater, September 27, 2019, 01:26:59 PM

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PC_Hater

The left-hand rear indicator is very loose on my 2000 1200S and the UK Vehicle Inspection MOT is due in month, time to fix it. Hah!
I knew I  had to use mayhem to get the nut off - it hasn't been undone since Black Bear HD in Newmarket built the bike as a special.
Not a problem, I have the new weird bolt thing and nuts ready!

Removed. And you have to remove the top shock bolt so you can remove the cover.
Now, how on earth do you put that weird setup back together?
The manual tells you nothing, not a mention.
You need a deep 5/8" socket or proper ring spanner to tighten it up, do I have one? Possibly, if I can find it...

Tedious deeply tedious. Working on Sportsters is always like that!
And while I was down there I noticed the rear brake pads need replacing too!
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

PC_Hater

I found my ring spanners in an old tool box full of Whitworth and BSF spanners and assorted other strange things I have not needed for years.
The 5/8" ring spanner will now live in my 'Harley tools' box.

Being a bit sad I have written the EBC brake pad number in the 2000 Sportster Parts Catalog, FA400 or FA400HH since you ask.
Even sadder, item 7 = 44314-00 Pad Pin Kit now has 'needs a 12 point 0.25" socket or ring spanner" written next to it. And that too is kept in the 'Harley tools' box.

The indicator is now tightly bolted to the cover and ready to go back on the bike.
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

PC_Hater

All done, just waiting for the new pads to arrive.
I was going to take the bike out to warm up the transmission oil and change it but torrential rain all day put me off! Perhaps I'll do it tomorrow or Friday.
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

PC_Hater

The old pads are out.
Will the new pads go in properly?
NO.
Only the inside pad fits properly.
The outside pad will not go in far enough for the pad-pin holes to line up.
OK.
Fit the old outside pad in, it was happy there so it will go back in easily and I can see what the problem is.
No it won't! I can't even get the old pad back in! And yes, the pistons are pushed back into the caliper.

I'm having a cup of tea before removing the rear caliper so I can see exactly what is happening.
I bet that 'anti-rattle' spring has moved to somewhere it shouldn't...

Looking back I am sure my BSA's needed more maintenance but were easier to work on.
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

Panzer

Put the no/go pad flat on a table, put the "go" pad on top and see what the difference is.
But of course, you knew that.
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

PC_Hater

Quote from: Panzer on October 04, 2019, 04:41:21 PM
Put the no/go pad flat on a table, put the "go" pad on top and see what the difference is.
But of course, you knew that.
Yep!
It was the failure to get the old pads back in that really vexed me!
I pulled the axle out enough to get the caliper out so I could see better and work with it easier.
Still no-go.
OK, I drained the brake fluid and removed the caliper so I could work with it on the bench.
Pushing against the anti-rattle spring to get the holes lined up to get both pins in was impossible!

I gave in and took the caliper to the dealer. Half an hours labour charge and it was done. (about $55 since you ask)
I bet I can't refit the caliper with pads in without taking the wheel out completely!
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

cyclobutch

Quote from: PC_Hater on October 04, 2019, 03:47:16 AM
Looking back I am sure my BSA's needed more maintenance but were easier to work on.

You're kidding right? My A10 is by far the thing I hate working on most.
B
'88 XLH1200

PC_Hater

Quote from: cyclobutch on October 06, 2019, 11:50:14 PM
Quote from: PC_Hater on October 04, 2019, 03:47:16 AM
Looking back I am sure my BSA's needed more maintenance but were easier to work on.

You're kidding right? My A10 is by far the thing I hate working on most.

3 singles and a remarkably reliable A50.
I must admit an A10 was always very low on the list of bikes I wanted.
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

PC_Hater

Quote from: PC_Hater on October 05, 2019, 06:52:41 AM
Quote from: Panzer on October 04, 2019, 04:41:21 PM
Put the no/go pad flat on a table, put the "go" pad on top and see what the difference is.
But of course, you knew that.
Yep!
It was the failure to get the old pads back in that really vexed me!
I pulled the axle out enough to get the caliper out so I could see better and work with it easier.
Still no-go.
OK, I drained the brake fluid and removed the caliper so I could work with it on the bench.
Pushing against the anti-rattle spring to get the holes lined up to get both pins in was impossible!

I gave in and took the caliper to the dealer. Half an hours labour charge and it was done. (about $55 since you ask)
I bet I can't refit the caliper with pads in without taking the wheel out completely!
I didn't have to take the wheel out to get the caliper with pads back in. I did wind 2 full turns (12 flats) off the belt adjuster to let the wheel move a bit forward. I even remembered to wind it back!
And now to the cause of the pad problems...
IMHO the manual is confusing as to which pad goes where.
I should have tried them the other way round but there we go.
The pad with the tab on it goes closest to to the wheel.
The symmetrical pad with the 2 points sticking goes on the outside of the caliper away from the wheel.

I marked-up the manual ready for next time!
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

PC_Hater

The bike passed the UK MOT today. They were surprised I turned up in the torrential rain!
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S