Harley torx compensator bolt.

[IronButt70]

Bike started making noise and took it to my indie. Needs new compensator but he can't get the bolt out. He's never had one like this before and he's very reluctant to use heat but I'm guessing that's his only option. Suggestions.

[kd]

I suggest heat to the bolt to soften the loctite patch.  I wouldn't use an impact at the first attempt to loosen it.  If it breaks off then it's drill and remove with easy out or ultimately re drill until to the threads and it will eventually release. You must be very careful to center the hole and bore in straight.  If it is stuck due to thread damage in the crank pin it will become obvious when it gets removed but the crank should be much better steel with a low likelihood of internal problems.  If the threads are galled they may be able to be chased out with a thread chaser or tap.  Patience is paramount if it comes to this and that won't be cheap at a shop door rate.   

[Ohio HD]

If he doesn't know what to do, I'd look for a new Indy.

Heat the bolt, tap on the bolt with a brass hammer while warm, put some muscle to it.

[biggzed]

The bolts are cheap. It's the good quality T70 that will cost you. Don't skimp with a Harbor Freight tool on this job. The high torque will twist a cheap bit way before proper torque is applied. Just my experience.

Zach

They are too cheap (and usually in stock) to even consider reusing them.  The manual says to replace them.

[IronButt70]

Just had some work done on my 17 softail and that bolt had something white looking on the threads. No red at all. Thought white locktite was a thread sealer and not used to keep bolts from backing out.

[Hossamania]

It's thread locker, factory product is different, made to be pre-applied to mass orders of bolts and dry, then activate when installed. Locker is not applied at the time of assembly in a factory, the bolts are pre "locked", for lack of a better term. It's all about saving time.

[No Cents]

Bike started making noise and took it to my indie. Needs new compensator but he can't get the bolt out. He's never had one like this before and he's very reluctant to use heat but I'm guessing that's his only option. Suggestions.

I use a 1/2" ratchet with a four foot piece of pipe slid over the handle. Of course I use a piece of flat stock steel to lock the comp down back to the clutch basket. I have never had a comp bolt say no doing it this way.
Leverage is your friend.

[Coyote]

Leverage is your friend.

A good impact is a better friend. 

[No Cents]

  I have had a few stubborn comp bolts over the years where the impact did not do so well. The old pipe trick over the ratchet worked after the impact failed. I do need to get a higher torque impact. The one I got is old and tired like me.   

[kd]

Depending on the position of the rods and flywheel, rattling away with an impact when the comp sprocket is not held secure and allowed to move with the impact, the rollers, big end and pin are taking abuse (in the one position) that they aren't designed to take.  I know lot of people do it but in my mind I keep seeing the rollers banging in the same place repeatedly. It's almost impossible to hold a comp rigid.  The impact has to be hard on that torx bit too. I've shattered good quality bits with a hand impact driver. Can't be good. Just for info, if you have any sockets (other than impact design) that you use on an impact gun regularly, have a look at the drive end and after such severe use you can see the wear pounded into the drive square and the fit is looser.

I like the bar and if required, enough heat to warm up the bolt and soften the adhesive patch. I agree with Ray.  The longer lever is more calculated than the hit it with the hammer approach.

[Coyote]

This is the reason I said "good" impact. My Snap on hits two or three times and out comes the bolt. Beating it to death with a sub par impact is never a good idea.

[No Cents]

  hence the reason why I use the ratchet with the 4' pipe slid over the handle. With a locking bar between the comp and the clutch basket I just apply a steady pressure on the comp bolt and it actually breaks the bolt loose quit easily using this method.
  I don't even think of hitting a comp bolt anymore with a impact...and there is no need to apply heat.

[kd]

   The hard stability a lock bar gives over a wedge makes a big difference too.

[Ohio HD]

We take no prisoners.


https://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/en-us/power-tools/products/impactools/2235timax-series.html

[jamminhd2000]

hence the reason why I use the ratchet with the 4' pipe slid over the handle. With a locking bar between the comp and the clutch basket I just apply a steady pressure on the comp bolt and it actually breaks the bolt loose quit easily using this method.
  I don't even think of hitting a comp bolt anymore with a impact...and there is no need to apply heat.
[/quote]

[bump]

hence the reason why I use the ratchet with the 4' pipe slid over the handle. With a locking bar between the comp and the clutch basket I just apply a steady pressure on the comp bolt and it actually breaks the bolt loose quit easily using this method.

The old Mexican torque amplifier