EVO base gaskets...Is it OK to only replace the gasket?

[SixShooter14]

but then again, if I shave the heads a bit, the 27 or a w6 would get it there... 

[Pete_Vit]

but then again, if I shave the heads a bit, the 27 or a w6 would get it there... 

http://www.andrewsproducts.com/files/assets/CamEV80.pdf   

[Ohio HD]

but then again, if I shave the heads a bit, the 27 or a w6 would get it there... 

EV59, stand on the compression, have the heads flowed by Larry....                 

[thumper 823]

I will have to say, if you have your heads off why go a bolt-in cam?
This makes no sense at all as you are doing a valve job anyway and it takes very little time to cut the guides dwn.
you want to go bigger on the valves, new guides and new springs, new cam.
( the time it takes to face valves is better spent on new, as they live in genuine hell.)
The money is almost the same .
The only thing extra you spent money on was the labor for the top cut.

Cut them for 600 lift, you will always have options later and install a decent Torq cam now.

It is a slippery slope and i think  I landed at the bottom.

[SixShooter14]

I will have to say, if you have your heads off why go a bolt-in cam?
This makes no sense at all as you are doing a valve job anyway and it takes very little time to cut the guides dwn.
you want to go bigger on the valves, new guides and new springs, new cam.
( the time it takes to face valves is better spent on new, as they live in genuine hell.)
The money is almost the same .
The only thing extra you spent money on was the labor for the top cut.

Cut them for 600 lift, you will always have options later and install a decent Torq cam now.

It is a slippery slope and i think  I landed at the bottom.

so, what you're saying is "don't half-ass it"?? 



Thanks for the advice guys. I don't really need more power, but I wouldn't complain about it. The main thing I'm wanting is a good, clean, and reliable engine. So I don't want to go too far with upgrades that I don't really need. That's why I'm focusing on the top-end stuff that I'm already pulling off to fix the leak.

That said, I will definitely be pulling off the timing cover and pushrod tubes just to see what we see. And once done I'll be tuning or having someone tune the carb. I'm only getting around 32mpg for typical 55-65mph highway driving. That seems a bit low to me. 

[Pete_Vit]

I will have to say, if you have your heads off why go a bolt-in cam?
This makes no sense at all as you are doing a valve job anyway and it takes very little time to cut the guides dwn.
you want to go bigger on the valves, new guides and new springs, new cam.
( the time it takes to face valves is better spent on new, as they live in genuine hell.)
The money is almost the same .
The only thing extra you spent money on was the labor for the top cut.

Cut them for 600 lift, you will always have options later and install a decent Torq cam now.

It is a slippery slope and i think  I landed at the bottom.

so, what you're saying is "don't half-ass it"?? 



Thanks for the advice guys. I don't really need more power, but I wouldn't complain about it. The main thing I'm wanting is a good, clean, and reliable engine. So I don't want to go too far with upgrades that I don't really need. That's why I'm focusing on the top-end stuff that I'm already pulling off to fix the leak.

That said, I will definitely be pulling off the timing cover and pushrod tubes just to see what we see. And once done I'll be tuning or having someone tune the carb. I'm only getting around 32mpg for typical 55-65mph highway driving. That seems a bit low to me.

first thing my machine shop asked is what type of riding am I doing/planning, and suggested I only freshen up the jugs, he found the valves, guides and seats were worn in the heads, so .005 over (cleaned up), new pistons, rings, values, springs...& hardware. my cam was done prior, so the only other suggestion I'd have is cam bearings inner outer, timken was my fist choice 
I'm happy with how it performs. you've seen they dyno sheet before the rebuild, I think for a pretty much stock 80" evo it does ok.
 

[SixShooter14]

I will have to say, if you have your heads off why go a bolt-in cam?
This makes no sense at all as you are doing a valve job anyway and it takes very little time to cut the guides dwn.
you want to go bigger on the valves, new guides and new springs, new cam.
( the time it takes to face valves is better spent on new, as they live in genuine hell.)
The money is almost the same .
The only thing extra you spent money on was the labor for the top cut.

Cut them for 600 lift, you will always have options later and install a decent Torq cam now.

It is a slippery slope and i think  I landed at the bottom.

so, what you're saying is "don't half-ass it"?? 



Thanks for the advice guys. I don't really need more power, but I wouldn't complain about it. The main thing I'm wanting is a good, clean, and reliable engine. So I don't want to go too far with upgrades that I don't really need. That's why I'm focusing on the top-end stuff that I'm already pulling off to fix the leak.

That said, I will definitely be pulling off the timing cover and pushrod tubes just to see what we see. And once done I'll be tuning or having someone tune the carb. I'm only getting around 32mpg for typical 55-65mph highway driving. That seems a bit low to me.

first thing my machine shop asked is what type of riding am I doing/planning, and suggested I only freshen up the jugs, he found the valves, guides and seats were worn in the heads, so .005 over (cleaned up), new pistons, rings, values, springs...& hardware. my cam was done prior, so the only other suggestion I'd have is cam bearings inner outer, timken was my fist choice 
I'm happy with how it performs. you've seen they dyno sheet before the rebuild, I think for a pretty much stock 80" evo it does ok.

yup, I'm going for healthy. Anything more is bonus.


Did you use Rodney's for machining? I was thinking about wfoLarry, but Rodney's is much closer and they can tune the carb afterwards too.

[thumper 823]

Everyone should do their own valve work..
No one will do it with the care you do, like kissing you SO.

[thumper 823]

I think in all this I ( we ) have lost track where the OP is trying to get to.
There has been talk of pushrods that will do nothing.
Heads off for mild porting but no real cam which is a huge waste of money.

I am not being cruel here but my advice is-  the Op needs to sit dwn and write down the goal at the bottom of the page.
Then fill in the blanks above.
That is always what I tell everyone, leave the eclectic for art lovers.
Or it becomes unorganized parts throwing contest, and a huge waste of money.
If the OP wants power like a 100 hp you are going to flip out at least 2K.( prolly a lot  more)
If he wants a refresh well thats a lot less, and Aunt Tillie's valve job will do.

If you want FAST and don't do your own head work then choose a shop with pictures of winners on the wall.
That is your reference and resume to you..
Pictures of their own race bikes.
T&O used to be grate. But they sank into oblivion.
Lake Shore again.......sigh
Then there are a bunch of others with all sorts of hype and fantastic claims with no real proof except paper and flow bench results which in truth means absolutely nothing to most people.
100 Hp @ 6000 RPM sounds great, but in reality, would suck if there ws no Torq say from 2K on for a street engine.
Your builder should be able to show you repeatable dyno results from different engines for your application.
If they lack a dyno room, then they have a fully outfitted BS room to sell you a bunch of anything.
So choose carefully from the generic NAPA 45 deg valve job  on the seats (Aunt tilly) to the extravagant 50 deg valve job with all sorts of tricks.
Hillside Harley has a pretty good resume hanging on the wall too and should be mentioned here.
  Brutal Honesty on the owners part  of the Harley along with the same from the machinest  / builder is paramount.
Hope all this helps.
Carry on.
 

[Hossamania]

Everyone should do their own valve work..
No one will do it with the care you do, like kissing you SO.

You're right, no one would do it with the care I do. Nor would they butcher it up like I would. I have no problem paying a reputable shop to do my valve work. Already did once, it has lasted 90,000 miles of high rpm abuse so far.

[thumper 823]

I like challenges-
I remember my very first valve job, sort of.
Some old v8 , a very early 1960s something or other. This was about 1974
  My mentor who did valves and seats as a side job was going to give me a deal if I stand there and help/watch.
He decided that i should just do it!
He started to just walk away!
I said wait wait wait!!
"I have only seen you do a one valve "
His answer "just do it and it will be better then what I had started with!"  LOL
I guess he was right..It has been many years of research and study from Smoky Yunick to Joe Mondello, Porsche and more.
The point there is no greater satisfaction of doing your own stuff.
I highly recommend everyone do their own work where possible.
Now I am doing things that are unheard of. ( in a normal shop)
If you do your own stuff you can place the seating area and width where and how you want it, which is a big deal in a performance engine.
Your normal sans valve fixer would have no clue  .

[hbkeith]

I don't understand why adjustable pushrods if not milling ? something that has fail potential for no reason

[thumper 823]

Pushrods are as smart as their owners-The old Iron heads Sporties came stock standard with them!
If you were to take a survey of people that have had PR problems it would be pretty slim.
Remember some people can't change a tire! Much less be in charge of proper valve adjustment and a locknut.
In 50 years I have not ever had one come loose.
  Also, I have heard there is inferior aftermarket crap for sale ...choose wisely.  Esp if going aftermarket cam and Springs.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

but then again, if I shave the heads a bit, the 27 or a w6 would get it there... 

A Wood 6 at 10.0 cr is a combination that we have built, without any jest, at LEAST 100 plus times.
Never a disappointment.

[Pete_Vit]

I will have to say, if you have your heads off why go a bolt-in cam?
This makes no sense at all as you are doing a valve job anyway and it takes very little time to cut the guides dwn.
you want to go bigger on the valves, new guides and new springs, new cam.
( the time it takes to face valves is better spent on new, as they live in genuine hell.)
The money is almost the same .
The only thing extra you spent money on was the labor for the top cut.

Cut them for 600 lift, you will always have options later and install a decent Torq cam now.

It is a slippery slope and i think  I landed at the bottom.

so, what you're saying is "don't half-ass it"?? 



Thanks for the advice guys. I don't really need more power, but I wouldn't complain about it. The main thing I'm wanting is a good, clean, and reliable engine. So I don't want to go too far with upgrades that I don't really need. That's why I'm focusing on the top-end stuff that I'm already pulling off to fix the leak.

That said, I will definitely be pulling off the timing cover and pushrod tubes just to see what we see. And once done I'll be tuning or having someone tune the carb. I'm only getting around 32mpg for typical 55-65mph highway driving. That seems a bit low to me.

first thing my machine shop asked is what type of riding am I doing/planning, and suggested I only freshen up the jugs, he found the valves, guides and seats were worn in the heads, so .005 over (cleaned up), new pistons, rings, values, springs...& hardware. my cam was done prior, so the only other suggestion I'd have is cam bearings inner outer, timken was my fist choice 
I'm happy with how it performs. you've seen they dyno sheet before the rebuild, I think for a pretty much stock 80" evo it does ok.

yup, I'm going for healthy. Anything more is bonus.


Did you use Rodney's for machining? I was thinking about wfoLarry, but Rodney's is much closer and they can tune the carb afterwards too.

I did use Rodney's, Eddie did all the machine work, he's pretty much part time now. He did all my machine work in the Sporty and the Springer