Budget build, reusing my take off 95" cylinders/pistons

[skunk]

I have my take off pistons (CP's) and cylinders from my 95" when I changed to 103". There were no issues when 95, quite and no oil use. Thinking about using them on a friends 88" for a very budget build. I am thinking about breaking the glaze with a ball hone and fresh rings. If we go this route would you use a ball hone for the bore, 3.875 or a 4" one? What grit would you use? Tia

[Ohio HD]

Honestly, I'd take them to a machine shop and ask them to hone, to let the new rings seat properly. I'm just not a fan of a ball hone to make a cross hatch.

[Skin]

I'm on the same page as Ohio, you'll be glad you do it. The shop would be able to tell if the cylinders are worn to far or out of shape. Hate to see you assemble with doing a hone job and really they should have been bored.

[1workinman]

I'm on the same page as Ohio, you'll be glad you do it. The shop would be able to tell if the cylinders are worn to far or out of shape. Hate to see you assemble with doing a hone job and really they should have been bored.

A budget build well I wish I knew how to do that , I not sure if you can but could you have the cylinder checked with a torque plate and honed , then have the skirts built up a bit with line 2 k or what ever its called .  to be honest I want a good ring seal so if I had to spend the extra money I would but that's just me. 

[MikeL]

I have done the ball hone thing a few times on low mile on the parts budget builds. Never a problem. Just use new rings and make sure you wash the cylinders real good. The ball hone removes the glaze the true crosshatch is still there.

                                                                                              MIKE

[Hossamania]

How many miles on the cylinders and pistons?
I would at least want to have experienced eyes take a look at them and take some quick measurements to check for out of round, and go from there, only because that is not my area of expertise.

[machinist]

If the deck height comes out higher with the other cases, the top or bottom ring could be banging on a ridge.

[kd]

 

[skunk]

I haven't but my bore gauge to it yet, but would before making any final decisions, I don't possess a set of plates but might give me an idea where I'm at. IIRC the 95 had less than 10k on it before I got bored with ( got beat ) it and went with a set of 4 3/8 wheels.

[skunk]

I had not thought about the deck height / edge catching the top or bottom ring, thank you for that.

[Barrett]

https://goodson.com/blogs/goodson-gazette/choosing-the-right-flex-hone

They say they're made oversized and go with your bore when buying.
If you're odd sized go one larger.

[PoorUB]

How many miles on the cylinders?  A couple thousand, run a fine ball hone through and run 'em. Tens of thousands of miles? I would take a good look at them with a micrometer, then decide. If you use a spring hone with stones and make a couple passes it will show if there is a ridge starting at the top of the cylinders. A ball hone will hide any regularities. Nothing wrong with a ball hone as long as you are certain the cylinders are true.

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

JMO,

It would help to know the specifics of everything i.e. Stage I, II, Tuner, EFI, Carb,  MM or Delphi, whatever is in it now prior to beginning. Unless the current receiving engine has had any bottom-end work, Deck Height should not be an issue.

If your take-offs are low mileage, treated well, and had regular oil changes; I would just move them over and forgo the cost of honing and truing. I've done several with good results that way back in the day.

Did you by chance do a compression test before tear-down? And one on the receiving Motor?  IMO, that will help your decision process.

I would have a local Machine Shop refinish them if you so choose. BTW: Take the Tolerance Specs from the Service Manual with you. You won't have anything to worry about or get any surprises after assembly. I've done some myself and just don't have the touch. It's definitely an art you learn over time. Then again, I don't have $100,000 machine either.

Comparatively,  As far as a 95" Budget Build. They're pretty much all "Budget friendly" today as compared to the past. $500 - $700 for everything now a days for the Top. Throw in some Cams that won't exceed the stock 88 Heads and be on your way. Personally, with the Chain Drive, Andrews TW-37 should improve it nicely without reaching the nominal limits. But people also tell me I'm too Conservative.

Another consideration is the 88 Cam Plate, Oil Pump and Tensioners. Of course, you'll have to dive in to see how they are. Now would be the perfect time to upgrade the Pump at a minimum and replace the Spring. And, perhaps the Cam Plate as well. Somewhere around a $1,000 - $1,500 for everything, especially if you shop around. Many places have these parts just "sitting" and will work with you to move them and save even more.

To me, there is a difference between budget build and a lasting build. So long as he's not expecting a miracle, you should be okay

[Hossamania]

How many miles on the cylinders?  A couple thousand, run a fine ball hone through and run 'em. Tens of thousands of miles? I would take a good look at them with a micrometer, then decide. If you use a spring hone with stones and make a couple passes it will show if there is a ridge starting at the top of the cylinders. A ball hone will hide any regularities. Nothing wrong with a ball hone as long as you are certain the cylinders are true.

10,000 miles on the 95" kit.

[skunk]

Pretty much all of my data, notes and other info on that bike,(88/95/103 configurations) was written inside the back of the manual that went with the bike when I sold it. That being said, IIRC,it ran as a 95 for a little over a season so I do believe it was under 10k as a 95, how much would be a guess. The pistons are out of the cylinders so I'm thinking that now that they have been disturbed I would replace them and maybe a hone to clear the glaze if everything else looks good. They were on a 02, going onto a 03, unsure of the mileage but don't think it is high. The Blackstone reports always came back good on my old bike.
  From memory, leak down was low single digits, comp was 160-165? (i'm at 5200" for now). I have my old 37's, good plate with the Basiley spring. I would do inner and outer bearings and a set of lifters while I was in there. Not sure on plans for the heads right now, If he doesn't  have the funds or desire to do the heads this winter I can throw his in the mill and tighten the chambers to wake the 37's up on the bottom. I still have my old SE -.030 push tubes if needed
  Both bikes are Delphi, His motor is still a running unit so we can check compression prior to any upgrades. Talk is he may look for some CVO take offs and do fulsac baffles, or see what other options he may run across on eBay

[PoorUB]

I would take a chance and run a fine ball hone through  them and new rings.

[safetyfifth]

Ive ball honed cylinders with used pistons and new rings. No problem. Going from a 88 to 95 will def put a grin on his face. That power becomes addicting. Im waiting till my next major rebuild and going to do a 98ci build with a darkhorse crank

[speedzter]

Why change the rings ?
For a true budget build, If the cylinders look decent, and with only 10k , just clean them and re-use.