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primary tensioner options ??

Started by jmorton10, November 05, 2019, 05:56:08 AM

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jmorton10

My 2007 RK had an M-6 auto adjuster installed when I bought it.

The first time I had the primary cover off, I found the tensioner shoe in about 5 pieces floating around being quickly mangled into tiny little pieces.

After I cleaned out that mess, I decided to dump the auto adjusting setup & installed the Baker Attitude adjuster. That didn't turn out to be a great setup either. The bracket quickly bent which turned out to be a rather common problem & Baker came out with a second version (the Armored Attitude adjuster with a 2nd plate supporting the whole mess & there was an upgrade kit you could buy for something like $60 that would make your old one into the new $250 unit.

I took the primary cover off yesterday preparing to remove the DD7 tranny to send it to Baker for shifting problems & found the new "armored piece" in two pieces broken right in half.

Now, I am trying to decide what to buy to go with the new GrudgeBox going in.  I remember when posters where discovering the Attitude Adjuster was junk right about the same time people where realizing the Baker Compensator was also a POS but I don't remember what other options people where using other than the welded stock unit.

How is the Twin Power unit working out for people at this point ??

~John
HC 124", Dragula, Pingel air shift W/Dyna Shift Minder & onboard compressor, NOS

jmorton10

Whatever I go with will be paired up with my Vulcan compensator eliminator sprocket & Bandit Sportsman clutch (which has all been working just fine)

~John
HC 124", Dragula, Pingel air shift W/Dyna Shift Minder & onboard compressor, NOS

kd

John, my stock 2011 unit properly adjusted is working fine.  I don't get on it hard and decel until the primary is up to temp and that's the key.  Otherwise, I expect you and I are equally as abusive with the throttle.  :hyst: :hyst:  Each time I have removed my primary the adjustment (cold) looked perfect. (touch wood)  I suppose the welded OEM unit others use is an acceptable option too as the OEM adjuster seems to hold up without breaking or bending.
KD

jmorton10

Did you ever get that Pingel module I sent you hooked up & working ??

~John
HC 124", Dragula, Pingel air shift W/Dyna Shift Minder & onboard compressor, NOS

kd

November 05, 2019, 12:05:37 PM #4 Last Edit: November 05, 2019, 02:00:24 PM by kd
Yes I got it (thanks again  :beer: )  but didn't get it hooked up yet.  I put the shifter on, got it to shift, installed all of the rest of the parts, then pulled the fuse and was waiting for a shift light mount to do the final hook up and Shift Minder settings.  I bought the $$$ Pingel $$$ handlebar mount and had to make a choice between between riding riding the few days I had open or put it back on the lift to tie it all in.  Guess what I chose.   :embarrassed:   :teeth:  I'm cleaning up the shop to get back at it though.  I'm hoping I can get it all done and trailer south for a bit of a holiday and some riding.

Oh yeah, I also did a GrudgeBox (couldn't hold a 3rd geart in the OEM 6 spd), RB Racing chain conversion (tired of ripping up belts)  :crook: .... and a couple of other little things like heavy battery cables and strater bypass etc  also.  That ate up the time I had to spare because I had to wait 5 months for the transmission to ship.  BTW, I couldn't break either in the few thousand wicked miles I put on this summer.   :teeth:  I can't wait to get the shifter and shift minder set up.   :wink:
KD

Billy

Call Evolution Industries and ask them about their Bump Stop, it's not on their website. It's a device that will convert the stock ratcheting tensioner into an adjustable one and fix it so as it will no longer ratchet. It works really well and is about $50. IIRC.

http://www.evolution-industries.com/dyn4.aspx
Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

Billy

Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

akjeff

I've had the SE adjuster in my 120" bagger for 3 trouble free years so far. I ordered one of the early Baker's and didn't even install it. One look, and it was obvious it was going to flex and break. How they released that to market is beyond me. The SE unit is solid, and has worked great for me. Same goes for the comp.
'09 FLTR/120R/'91 XL1250 street tracker project/'07 DR-Z400S

tomcat64

Quote from: akjeff on November 06, 2019, 06:58:31 AM
I've had the SE adjuster in my 120" bagger for 3 trouble free years so far. I ordered one of the early Baker's and didn't even install it. One look, and it was obvious it was going to flex and break. How they released that to market is beyond me. The SE unit is solid, and has worked great for me. Same goes for the comp.

yupper, my SE one has seen 4 seasons and no problems.. 2014 FLHXS with a stage 5 tire shredder

Propflux01

Quote from: Billy on November 06, 2019, 05:02:05 AM
Found this.

[attach=0,msg1321815]

Interesting!

But if one takes away the ratcheting part, what would keep the tension proper? Seems to me it would then work like a Hayden, with a real weak spring. ??
A Shovel And A 55-Gallon Drum Can Solve Alot Of Life's Little "Issues"...

Billy

Quote from: Propflux01 on November 09, 2019, 01:14:53 PM
Quote from: Billy on November 06, 2019, 05:02:05 AM
Found this.

[attach=0,msg1321815]

Interesting!

But if one takes away the ratcheting part, what would keep the tension proper? Seems to me it would then work like a Hayden, with a real weak spring. ??

No, it doesn't make it work like the Haden. It makes the stock auto adjuster a fixed one. The bump stop blocks the adjuster from ratcheting tighter, pretty much makes the spring useless. I wish I had taken some good pics of it installed. This piece really works well and is very inexpensive relative to other options discussed here. I'm surprised no one else on here has caught on to it.
Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

rbabos

Quote from: Billy on November 09, 2019, 02:04:12 PM
Quote from: Propflux01 on November 09, 2019, 01:14:53 PM
Quote from: Billy on November 06, 2019, 05:02:05 AM
Found this.

[attach=0,msg1321815]

Interesting!

But if one takes away the ratcheting part, what would keep the tension proper? Seems to me it would then work like a Hayden, with a real weak spring. ??

No, it doesn't make it work like the Haden. It makes the stock auto adjuster a fixed one. The bump stop blocks the adjuster from ratcheting tighter, pretty much makes the spring useless. I wish I had taken some good pics of it installed. This piece really works well and is very inexpensive relative to other options discussed here. I'm surprised no one else on here has caught on to it.
Well, the secrets out now.
Ron

FSG


Billy

Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

FSG

QuoteThat's it. Where did you find the pic?

qood question, don't remember, saw it some time ago so grabbed it, took me a while to figure out what it was for, would have come in handy when I tried out the 06 Auto Tensioner in the Fatty years ago



those destructions have to be wrong



1workinman

Looks like a good idea to me . I going to put the road glide on the lift and remove the primary cover and inspect the chain and tensioner. I feeling some vibration and I want to give that area a general inspection. When I pulled down the street glide to inspect every thing and install a new black ops billet basket , tensioner , chain . I remember how tight the primary chain was . Very tight and I decided to eliminate the auto tensioner function then. I set the sag and welded it . Very quiet so I going to order the part and try it on my road glide . Thanks for posting the information

Billy

Quote from: FSG on November 09, 2019, 04:43:36 PM
QuoteThat's it. Where did you find the pic?

qood question, don't remember, saw it some time ago so grabbed it, took me a while to figure out what it was for, would have come in handy when I tried out the 06 Auto Tensioner in the Fatty years ago



those destructions have to be wrong



Yes, hole toward front of motorcycle. The pic in the instructions show the proper hole.
Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

Propflux01

Quote from: Billy on November 09, 2019, 02:04:12 PM
Quote from: Propflux01 on November 09, 2019, 01:14:53 PM
Quote from: Billy on November 06, 2019, 05:02:05 AM
Found this.



Interesting!

But if one takes away the ratcheting part, what would keep the tension proper? Seems to me it would then work like a Hayden, with a real weak spring. ??

No, it doesn't make it work like the Haden. It makes the stock auto adjuster a fixed one. The bump stop blocks the adjuster from ratcheting tighter, pretty much makes the spring useless. I wish I had taken some good pics of it installed. This piece really works well and is very inexpensive relative to other options discussed here. I'm surprised no one else on here has caught on to it.

I have never even seen anything like it until now. I have a SOHB one in mine now, and it has been flawless so far. But this intrigues me.
A Shovel And A 55-Gallon Drum Can Solve Alot Of Life's Little "Issues"...

FSG

Quote from: Propflux01 on November 09, 2019, 05:38:28 PM
I have never even seen anything like it until now. I have a SOHB one in mine now, and it has been flawless so far. But this intrigues me.


Pix of the blown out HB125  I had in the Fatty :emsad:







I'll sent the pix and my info to Hot Bikes of Oregon to see what they may say or do, response was ZERO.

I wanted the bike back on the road within 3 or 4 days, so the stock adjuster went go back in, it's still in there.

Propflux01

Quote from: FSG on November 09, 2019, 06:16:12 PM



Pix of the blown out HB125  I had in the Fatty :emsad:



I'll sent the pix and my info to Hot Bikes of Oregon to see what they may say or do, response was ZERO.

I wanted the bike back on the road within 3 or 4 days, so the stock adjuster went go back in, it's still in there.

Good Lord!! WTF caused that to happen? Looks like some kind of erosion. Pot metal type
A Shovel And A 55-Gallon Drum Can Solve Alot Of Life's Little "Issues"...

Rockout Rocker Products

As I was putting my DD7 back in today I took a look at my Baker adjuster...

[attach=0]

Great. This is on a pretty mild build.... 110/120 ish. Anyone know if you buy the upgrade part from Baker does it come with a new plastic shoe? Since mine is bent the shoe is worn off axis too. *&$^&**$@

www.rockout.biz Stop the top end TAPPING!!

Ohio HD

Put the OEM back in, you have the latest revision. I put the -B tensioner in and don't get an over tight chain. And I do run the RPM's up and decel hard in gear at times. Those Baker units are junk.

Norton Commando

Quote from: Ohio HD on November 09, 2019, 08:06:44 PM
Put the OEM back in, you have the latest revision. I put the -B tensioner in and don't get an over tight chain. And I do run the RPM's up and decel hard in gear at times. Those Baker units are junk.

Is the OEM tensioner you are referring to P/N 39929-06B?

Jason
Remember, you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house.

WhipLash96

Man am I glad I decided to look at this thread. I was going to buy the Baker manual adjuster. So then which is truly the better route to go? The Evolution Industries unit or the stock HD (SE) unit?
Thanks,
Whip

kd

I am using the stock tensioner on an almost 150 square 120" 2011 RGU with great success.  Believe me, I beat the crap out of it every single time I ride it too.  I believe most importantly, you need to understand what causes the OEM auto adjuster to adjust.  If you always allow the primary to come up to temp before you get on it and there shouldn't be any problem.  Avoid putting hard power on followed by hard decel until the sprockets heat up and grow (removing the cold chain slack) and the tensioner can't click up a notch.  After it's up to temp, ..... have at er.   :teeth:
KD