March 28, 2024, 01:07:41 PM

News:

For advertising inquiries or help with registration or other issues, you may contact us by email at help@harleytechtalk.com


primary tensioner options ??

Started by jmorton10, November 05, 2019, 05:56:08 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Rockout Rocker Products

Funny how things change. I've seen the stock tensioner blamed for everything from IPB failure to comp failure to hard shifting to...
That was why everyone (myself included) flocked to the Baker. I will say it did make my KLANK into 1st gear quieter. I suspect the bowstring tight stock setup added to the parasitic drag on the clutch plates.
I went ahead & put it back together with the Baker for now while I look around at options. With the shoe worn at an angle it's kinda like it isn't bent at all  :idunno:
www.rockout.biz Stop the top end TAPPING!!

rbabos

Quote from: kd on November 10, 2019, 07:04:50 AM
I am using the stock tensioner on an almost 150 square 120" 2011 RGU with great success.  Believe me, I beat the crap out of it every single time I ride it too.  I believe most importantly, you need to understand what causes the OEM auto adjuster to adjust.  If you always allow the primary to come up to temp before you get on it and there shouldn't be any problem.  Avoid putting hard power on followed by hard decel until the sprockets heat up and grow (removing the cold chain slack) and the tensioner can't click up a notch.  After it's up to temp, ..... have at er.   :teeth:
Well, as time goes on between my original manual adjust OEM mod, to welding once adjustment is determined, If I had to do it again I would make use of the front hole and make a limiting plate from the front mounting hole to block. So frigging simple it makes me puke.
Ron

Propflux01

The reason I changed mine originally was a loud 'whir' noise. opened the primary up and chain was banjo tight. I mean tight (it had even caused the clutch basket to mark the inner primary). So jumped on the Hayden-wagen. Damn noise that was supposed to go away never did, then started hearing the broken spring and disintegrating shoe syndromes, . So it came out and was replaced by the Baker attitude adjuster. Good tension keeper but damn, louder than the Hayden. So out it came and in went the Southern Oregon Hot Bikes model. First, no noise. Tighter shifting, overall great feel. Its been in there for alittle over 9K and so far flawless. I haven't really heard any complaints about it it really until FSG's pics came up  :unsure:. Now my riding is usually conservative to normal, as I have a 103 with Andrews 48's, and a PV tune. Not a tire shredder, but a nice torquey couch, and that I use that torque riding the curves and hills of Arkansistan. I rarely take to the redline unless I'm feeling just alittle squirrely.

Now HD's tensioner is a good product-Sans the auto tightening. Meaning the shoe usually lasts, doesn't normally blow up, etc. So with this new, and seemingly simple design to keep the ratcheting at bay, Id rather use a stock tensioner that actually works correctly. My only concern is, it this just another cheap part that will break in half in a few thousand miles? I guess if it got one and it broke, I still have three other tensioners laying around.... :banghead:
A Shovel And A 55-Gallon Drum Can Solve Alot Of Life's Little "Issues"...

rbabos

Quote from: Propflux01 on November 10, 2019, 09:30:13 AM
The reason I changed mine originally was a loud 'whir' noise. opened the primary up and chain was banjo tight. I mean tight (it had even caused the clutch basket to mark the inner primary). So jumped on the Hayden-wagen. Damn noise that was supposed to go away never did, then started hearing the broken spring and disintegrating shoe syndromes, . So it came out and was replaced by the Baker attitude adjuster. Good tension keeper but damn, louder than the Hayden. So out it came and in went the Southern Oregon Hot Bikes model. First, no noise. Tighter shifting, overall great feel. Its been in there for alittle over 9K and so far flawless. I haven't really heard any complaints about it it really until FSG's pics came up  :unsure:. Now my riding is usually conservative to normal, as I have a 103 with Andrews 48's, and a PV tune. Not a tire shredder, but a nice torquey couch, and that I use that torque riding the curves and hills of Arkansistan. I rarely take to the redline unless I'm feeling just alittle squirrely.

Now HD's tensioner is a good product-Sans the auto tightening. Meaning the shoe usually lasts, doesn't normally blow up, etc. So with this new, and seemingly simple design to keep the ratcheting at bay, Id rather use a stock tensioner that actually works correctly. My only concern is, it this just another cheap part that will break in half in a few thousand miles? I guess if it got one and it broke, I still have three other tensioners laying around.... :banghead:
Remember, that limiter only needs to resist the block spring pressure. A bent 16 gauge piece of steel with a hole in it to mount to the front hole and done. You don't even need those fancy ass ratchet notches in it.
Ron

FSG

QuoteYou don't even need those fancy ass ratchet notches in it

they are just trim guides, if the chain is too loose then trim to the next mark, easier than a tape measure  :SM:

FSG

QuoteYes, hole toward front of motorcycle. The pic in the instructions show the proper hole.

:up:

WhipLash96

Thanks,
Whip

Propflux01

Quote from: kd on November 10, 2019, 07:04:50 AM
I am using the stock tensioner on an almost 150 square 120" 2011 RGU with great success.  Believe me, I beat the crap out of it every single time I ride it too.  I believe most importantly, you need to understand what causes the OEM auto adjuster to adjust.  If you always allow the primary to come up to temp before you get on it and there shouldn't be any problem.  Avoid putting hard power on followed by hard decel until the sprockets heat up and grow (removing the cold chain slack) and the tensioner can't click up a notch.  After it's up to temp, ..... have at er.   :teeth:

That makes good sense, I get it, and all, but what constitutes "up to temp" and how long does that actually take? My oil temp doesn't get above 180 for at least 30 minutes of riding, and this is in summer. In colder temps, alot longer.
A Shovel And A 55-Gallon Drum Can Solve Alot Of Life's Little "Issues"...

Propflux01

FSG-What symptoms did your bike have when you noticed the SOHB tensioner like that?
A Shovel And A 55-Gallon Drum Can Solve Alot Of Life's Little "Issues"...

FSG


rbabos

Quote from: FSG on November 10, 2019, 10:16:15 AM
QuoteYou don't even need those fancy ass ratchet notches in it

they are just trim guides, if the chain is too loose then trim to the next mark, easier than a tape measure  :SM:
Ok, then you don't need those fancy ass trim guides either. :hyst:
Ron


Propflux01

A Shovel And A 55-Gallon Drum Can Solve Alot Of Life's Little "Issues"...

rbabos

Quote from: Propflux01 on November 10, 2019, 12:39:04 PM
But I have heard they are loud.
It's a possibility but I've not tested this one. When I was playing around with the OEM auto and converting it to manual, I pulled the shoe springs out once for testing a full rigid concept. Decel whine was unreal so I put the springs back in. This SE has no shoe support springs either and it might behave the same way. Whine on decel that is.
Ron

rageglide

Quote from: Propflux01 on November 10, 2019, 12:39:04 PM
But I have heard they are loud.

They certainly can be.  I tried one and it was noticeable immediately.  Not limited to decel.  Even the baker transmits a bit more noise to the primary compared to the OEM adjuster.  I went back to OEM on my 120" and no issues at all.  The newer versions don't seem to be as prone to locking in too tight.

76shuvlinoff


My 12 EG is basically stock except for cams and pipe. I welded my stock tensioner ended up a touch too loose. I love the Hayden in my 93" shovel so I tried the TC version, not so great. I ended up de-welding the stocker and putting it back it. Upgraded to SE comp.   Kept the H-D slam drive throughout the changes. My shovel is smoother and quieter.
Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway

1workinman

I installed a new tensioner and tack welded it also and if I had thought about it I done the tab as pictured . To be honest I was not sure how it would turn out , but I rode it pretty hard in Colorado and today I took a 275 mile trip just to see if I have the security light problem fixed an it is lol gone . Any way the primary is very quiet , as far as decal noise I just pull in the clutch some times not a problem . I not wanting any more of that very tight primary chain again. I got a 1000 miles on it now I guess I could pull the primary cover and check but its quiet so I thought I wait till I change the oil in motor .

rageglide

Edit, responded in wrong thread by accident...

I originally planned to weld my stock adjuster, but reinstalled the original and have had no issues at all.  Even with twice stock hp/torque, no issues.

jmorton10

Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on November 09, 2019, 07:47:50 PM
. Anyone know if you buy the upgrade part from Baker does it come with a new plastic shoe?

Yes, it does but don't waste your money.  Even with the "upgrade" it is still a piece of junk !!

~John
HC 124", Dragula, Pingel air shift W/Dyna Shift Minder & onboard compressor, NOS

Hilly13

Quote from: rbabos on November 10, 2019, 09:29:29 AM
Quote from: kd on November 10, 2019, 07:04:50 AM
I am using the stock tensioner on an almost 150 square 120" 2011 RGU with great success.  Believe me, I beat the crap out of it every single time I ride it too.  I believe most importantly, you need to understand what causes the OEM auto adjuster to adjust.  If you always allow the primary to come up to temp before you get on it and there shouldn't be any problem.  Avoid putting hard power on followed by hard decel until the sprockets heat up and grow (removing the cold chain slack) and the tensioner can't click up a notch.  After it's up to temp, ..... have at er.   :teeth:
Well, as time goes on between my original manual adjust OEM mod, to welding once adjustment is determined, If I had to do it again I would make use of the front hole and make a limiting plate from the front mounting hole to block. So frigging simple it makes me puke.
Ron

Ron I have put heaps of people onto your mod thinking that it was the simplest solution albeit a challenge to drill but this....man you overthinked it aye 😁
Just because its said don't make it so