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Stripped shift lever splines

Started by 97dyna, November 13, 2019, 04:20:10 PM

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97dyna

Need help on a parts list to replace shift lever 34621-90.
It looks like this requires removing the inner primary. Any suggestions on parts I need to order and the challenges (bearings) I might face would be appreciated.
I'm also looking for tutorials on the repair.

Thanks in advance!

(I recently installed further forward controls but I had an aftermarket outer primary. The foot control lever was hitting the outer primary and stripping the shift lever splines. I have modified a new shift lever to prevent this reoccurring.)

JW113

Well, if you don't have FSM, start with getting one.

Other than pulling the compensator and clutch basket off, it's a cake walk. I've not worked on a Dyna, so hopefully you can get to the two starter bolts that go into the inner primary from the right side without pulling a bunch of stuff off. On a softail, just need a long ratchet extension and a 1/4" ball driver hex.

You'll need a 1-1/2" socket for the comp nut, and 1-13/16" socket for the clutch nut. Remember, clutch nut is LEFT HAND thread. And then a way to hold the sprockets while you loosen the nuts. I use a lock bar, there's other options depending how tight and how much loctite was used. A really long 1/2" drive breaker bar comes in handy, some folks use a 1/2" impact gun.

The rest, piece of cake.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber


JW113

Correction... Make that 1-3/16" socket on the trans nut. Sorry, typo.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Burnout

Quote from: convert1967 on November 14, 2019, 05:27:03 AM
Check out https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/

I did not dig very deep, but how do you get the old stripped arm off?
Replacement arms are steel and I often also replace the pawl with a anti_over-rotation unit (Posishift)
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Hossamania

Quote from: Burnout on November 14, 2019, 10:00:19 AM
Quote from: convert1967 on November 14, 2019, 05:27:03 AM
Check out https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/

I did not dig very deep, but how do you get the old stripped arm off?
Replacement arms are steel and I often also replace the pawl with a anti_over-rotation unit (Posishift)

To get the old arm off requires a Dremel and small cut off wheel. Slice it and break it off. A friend got lucky and just used a cold chisel in the slot, tapped it with a hammer and it split.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

JW113

Can't just use a couple of screwdrivers and pry it off?

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Hossamania

Quote from: JW113 on November 15, 2019, 01:52:40 PM
Can't just use a couple of screwdrivers and pry it off?

-JW

Is there enough room to get it off the shaft without removing the inner primary?
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

Burnout

They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Harpo

97 - this may be a bit late and maybe not for the fainthearted, but I can share with you a fix that I've applied to more than one stripped/slipping shifter shaft.  Use a sharp angled (not blunt) prick punch and hammer to put a series of punches on the shaft.  The raised divits from the punches gives the shaft "tooth" where the shift lever grips it.  With an aluminum primary it is best to have a helper hold an "anvil" underneath the shaft where you are punching it to avoid putting stress on the primary itself (and possibly cracking it).  This technique also works very well for keeping handlebars from slipping in risers (for you guys with apes).

Hossamania

I can tell you, it does not work for apes with a bigger guy that hammers the throttle and brakes.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

thumper 823

Removing the Inner P.is not that scary.
Fixing right brings satisfaction.
When you get it all together drill through the shifter and shaft install a roll pin.
Now it is never going anywhere.
Check the torque on the bolt once in a while just for fun  (shifter lever)
D Troop 3/5, - C/16 ,162AHC, Mekong delta.
Rising from the Ashes  UHIH

C#

Getting the seals back on in the right direction, etc. is the most challenging... take pics.

timcosby

taking thumpers idea of drilling the shaft and arm why not just do that to the existing one and putting in bolt and nylock nut. that way you dont have to remove the primary. :scratch:

Hossamania

February 20, 2020, 09:14:55 AM #14 Last Edit: February 20, 2020, 09:19:42 AM by Hossamania
Quote from: timcosby on February 19, 2020, 10:17:22 PM
taking thumpers idea of drilling the shaft and arm why not just do that to the existing one and putting in bolt and nylock nut. that way you dont have to remove the primary. :scratch:

I think if you are relying on the pin or small diameter bolt (screw) to hold the pressure of shifting up and down without good splines to help hold the lever in place, the pin will fatigue quickly and break. That is a thin shaft to drill thru, the hole will be pretty small. I don't think a pin that small in diameter, solid or rolled, will hold very long on its own.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

Burnout

This is all reactive thinking.
It is best to be proactive and prevent things before they happen.
Keep the lever tight on the shaft and there is no problem.   :smiled:
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Hossamania

Quote from: Burnout on February 20, 2020, 09:21:32 AM
This is all reactive thinking.
It is best to be proactive and prevent things before they happen.
Keep the lever tight on the shaft and there is no problem.   :smiled:

That is number one. I learned here about the practice of removing the bolt and using anti sieze on the bolt and apply some to the shoulder to overtighten the bolt and give more squeeze to the clamp. I checked mine, it was just starting to get a bit loose. I tightened it, and it has held for 90,000 miles so far.
I have some tranny service coming up, I will replace the lever, use a grade 8 bolt, and overtighten it when it goes back together.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

Burnout

I have been getting Steel levers to replace the factory aluminum.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Deye76

 :dgust: $225.00 for a shift lever? (betterlever). Spend the money on tools.   
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP