clutch

[david lee]

well after lubing my cable with no difference i finally took of the derby cover and straight away it looked like the springs were adjusted to tight.5 stud hub.i know the springs are not worn.i adjusted them 2 turns out and the lever feels perfect and no slipage.i even have threads left showing on the studs

[billbuilds]

      Are you using the stock pressure plate or an aftermarket "high performance" aluminum one? Getting the spring pack measurement close to the 1-1/32 measurement in th SM should be the starting point for propper clutch adjustment. Do you check to see if the pressure plate comes off evenly when hand lever is depressed?  If you have one side of the pressure plate that does not come off of the clutch pack as much as the opposite side you can swap the two springs in those areas (as has been mentioned on here by others and as I've had good luck with) and this will help the plate to come off evenly and not leave you with a slight handup. Bill

[david lee]

it has a alloy pressure plate.the whole clutch was installed by a hd mech.what i did notice was that 2 nuts could be slightly spun back and forth by finger.what would be the best way to check if the pressure plate releases evenly and should the push rod need re adjusting.i have the right play at the lever thanks

[Racepres]

A 5 stud Hub is never gonna provide as even pressure as a 3... but can be made to work OK... loctite is your friend... or Modify some nylocs..
Note; If you do Not start with the Clutch arm at the right place... really with the throwout "fingers" in the right place... you will Never ...ever, get the clutch Correct!!!

[Hybredhog]

    I'm not a fan of either the Aluminum pressure plates or 5 studs, but the biggest improvement with clean sanded fiber plates is a "Ramm Jett" (old trade name), plastic retainer ring off the hub to keep the basket from walking. It lets the plates spread & minimizes creeping. 

[friday]

cant remember if it was this site or shovelhead but someone cut slots in the nuts 90 degrees to the factory slots giving each nut more adjustment

[fbn ent]

"the whole clutch was installed by a hd mech"

This means nothing, especially on old bikes....

[Racepres]

    I'm not a fan of either the Aluminum pressure plates or 5 studs, but the biggest improvement with clean sanded fiber plates is a "Ramm Jett" (old trade name), plastic retainer ring off the hub to keep the basket from walking. It lets the plates spread & minimizes creeping.

Absolutely!!!

[david lee]

has the ram jet and all plates were cleaned and inspected. dont know why the mech put a 5 stud on.i run a dry belt primary thanks

[Racepres]

has the ram jet and all plates were cleaned and inspected. dont know why the mech put a 5 stud on.i run a dry belt primary thanks

I don'tknow what "clean" really is... but on belt drive primaries, I have had best luck with 3 finger, Ramm-Jett Retainer, and figure 8 scuff them frictions [usually cheap ass alto reds] on the Concrete floor.... Long as i don't get oil contamination... no problems... BTW I run a Fully Enclosed primary generally also... Current belt is at least 10 years old... probably older... but it is just a '74-74"

[david lee]

whats the best way to see if the presssure plate is releasing evenly thanks

[Racepres]

whats the best way to see if the presssure plate is releasing evenly thanks

Look at it when you pull the clutch lever!

[Burnout]

Yep watch the pressure plate as you start to squeeze the lever you will see one side of the pressure plate lift first. And then the Pressure plate will tip as it opens up. You want to juggle the springs so it opens as flat as possible. I start off by measuring the springs with calipers and distribute the tall springs equally around the pressure plate then spread the shorter springs our equally. Usually this will result in a very flat release. If the pressure plate tips mark the plate so you know which side lifts first this will help you re-organize the springs for a flat release. Unequal tightening of the retainer nuts is not a good solution, take the time to juggle the springs and get it to release flat.

When you get it right a dry clutch will actually stop spinning when released with the trans in neutral!

I pull out the pushrod adjuster screw and use a 3/8/x24 bolt and a large flat washer to hold the retainer, springs, and the P/plate together for assembly. This way you won't spill the  springs when installing and it is easy to start the nuts. Just use a bolt that is not too long, so it doesn't hit the pushrod. You can put the bolt in while the clutch is assembled on the bike and preserve spring position.

I like the aluminum pressure plate the stock one will get bent if you use stiff springs or coil bind the springs and especially if you use heavy springs.
I don't use heavy springs unless I cant get the stock springs to hold.
Check the clutch holding power by bumping the clutch lever in high gear at full throttle. You should feel a solid grab, not a lazy slip grab, or a slip that does not stop. Do not slip the clutch excessively or you will overheat it. Heat is a clutches worst enemy, no slipping is tolerable. And stiffer than needed springs are not the best solution.

Make sure the pushrod has play with the bars straight ahead, because the cable length changes when the bars are turned one way or the other. Too tight of a pushrod adjustment is the most common cause of ruined clutches. Use the cable adjustment to set the position of the release arm so the throwout bearing is not tipped.

[fbn ent]

 .......I pull out the pushrod adjuster screw and use a 3/8/x24 bolt and a large flat washer to hold the retainer, springs, and the P/plate together for assembly. This way you won't spill the  springs when installing and it is easy to start the nuts. Just use a bolt that is not too long, so it doesn't hit the pushrod. You can put the bolt in while the clutch is assembled on the bike and preserve spring position....

[david lee]

Yep watch the pressure plate as you start to squeeze the lever you will see one side of the pressure plate lift first. And then the Pressure plate will tip as it opens up. You want to juggle the springs so it opens as flat as possible. I start off by measuring the springs with calipers and distribute the tall springs equally around the pressure plate then spread the shorter springs our equally. Usually this will result in a very flat release. If the pressure plate tips mark the plate so you know which side lifts first this will help you re-organize the springs for a flat release. Unequal tightening of the retainer nuts is not a good solution, take the time to juggle the springs and get it to release flat.

When you get it right a dry clutch will actually stop spinning when released with the trans in neutral!

I pull out the pushrod adjuster screw and use a 3/8/x24 bolt and a large flat washer to hold the retainer, springs, and the P/plate together for assembly. This way you won't spill the  springs when installing and it is easy to start the nuts. Just use a bolt that is not too long, so it doesn't hit the pushrod. You can put the bolt in while the clutch is assembled on the bike and preserve spring position.

I like the aluminum pressure plate the stock one will get bent if you use stiff springs or coil bind the springs and especially if you use heavy springs.
I don't use heavy springs unless I cant get the stock springs to hold.
Check the clutch holding power by bumping the clutch lever in high gear at full throttle. You should feel a solid grab, not a lazy slip grab, or a slip that does not stop. Do not slip the clutch excessively or you will overheat it. Heat is a clutches worst enemy, no slipping is tolerable. And stiffer than needed springs are not the best solution.

Make sure the pushrod has play with the bars straight ahead, because the cable length changes when the bars are turned one way or the other. Too tight of a pushrod adjustment is the most common cause of ruined clutches. Use the cable adjustment to set the position of the release arm so the throwout bearing is not tipped.

thanks. i thought all the springs were the same lenght

[Burnout]

[thanks. i thought all the springs were the same lenght

Technically they are, but real world prevails.   

[crock]

I pull out the pushrod adjuster screw and use a 3/8/x24 bolt and a large flat washer to hold the retainer, springs, and the P/plate together for assembly. This way you won't spill the  springs when installing and it is easy to start the nuts. Just use a bolt that is not too long, so it doesn't hit the pushrod. You can put the bolt in while the clutch is assembled on the bike and preserve spring position.



I have found that a valve spring retainer works great with the stock adjusting screw. Just break loose the lock nut and spin it off, slide on the spring retainer and spin the lock nut back on snug

[david lee]

pressure plate seems to be releasing evenly. in gear you cannot move the bike back or forwards with clutch engaged. a test ride is next. springs could be loosened another half to 1 turn

[fbn ent]

Sometimes it is a fine line between too much spring pressure and not enough. You will have to experiment some on that. Just make sure the throw is set up as per the manual, free play at the clutch lever is correct, the five nuts on the studs are adjusted evenly and the pressure plate moves as evenly as possible.

[david lee]

what does the throw out do.i do remember a long time ago the clutch arm was the correct measurement away from the starter motor

[Burnout]

If you get the arm back too far it will tip the throw out bearing and damage it.