Time for a rebuild or ride it

[Justpassingas]

Need some advice...Should I rebuild it or ride it???  09 Streetglide with 95K on 96" stock motor except for Andrews 48 cam & bearing with everything else in drivetrain original including compensator. Bike still runs great and just had one of my best seasons at 9K this year. My concerns are lifter failure or cam tensioners with that many miles. Should I be concerned? How many miles are the stock TCs good for? Over the winter I'm strongly considering doing a crank up rebuild to 110 and go completely through the drivetrain and hopefully get another 100K mile motor. All things considered should I ride it till something fails or rebuild it now and be done with it? One other thing I'm thinking about...I'm retiring in 6 months and $$$ is available now but if I wait 2-3 years the $$$ might not be available. Is it worth waiting 2-3 more years on this motor and get another 20K out of it?     Opinions welcomed  TIA

[Wood]

I have a 2010 FLTRX with 98K and I'm going to ride her for about two more years (20K).  Did quite a bit of maintenance over the years to keep her running well.  Your list of maintenance/improvements is miniscule compared to mine. I would suggest you simply replace your lifters, cam tensioners and oil pump and then ride.  People get over 150K on a maintained TC.

[Barrett]

Do a compression check, if it's good do the tensioners and roll with it.

[Nutoy]

  Not broke don't fix it.

[Hossamania]

If the tensioners and lifters have not been done, they really should be. Other than that, if you are happy with the way it runs, leave it.
But, if you really need that 110", .......

[motorhogman]

I've got 112,000 mi on my 01 TC88  Only thing that's been into is the cam chest and lifters. I'll be doing the lifters again this week with about 60,000 mi on the current ones.  Uses very little oil and runs great.

I wouldn't even think about rebuilding it at this point.  Yours or mine LOL

[Justpassingas]

If the tensioners and lifters have not been done, they really should be. Other than that, if you are happy with the way it runs, leave it.
But, if you really need that 110", .......

All good advice...I should listen to myself....If it ain't broke ....don't fix it....definitely something to look into is re-do the camchest...The thought never really crossed my mind.

I'm happy with the way it runs ....Its not that I need a 110" with a 120HP its more of a want.

Is 95K too many miles to consider doing the heads with a cam upgrade over the Andrews 48 while its apart?

[Ohio HD]

Before I pulled the heads I would conduct a leak down test. If the ring seal isn't that good, then you may as well address that too.

An on the frugal upgrade if you did pull the heads and have port work done, have your cylinders bored to 103", new cast pistons fit, then you'll probably see another 100,000 miles from it. Also your tensioners and lifters as well.

[Hossamania]

Before I pulled the heads I would conduct a leak down test. If the ring seal isn't that good, then you may as well address that too.

An on the frugal upgrade if you did pull the heads and have port work done, have your cylinders bored to 103", new cast pistons fit, then you'll probably see another 100,000 miles from it. Also your tensioners and lifters as well.

Right there is very sound advice.

[Justpassingas]

An on the frugal upgrade if you did pull the heads and have port work done, have your cylinders bored to 103", new cast pistons fit, then you'll probably see another 100,000 miles from it. Also your tensioners and lifters as well.
[/quote]

That thought crossed my mind also...just do the top end but I'm thinking 110" drop on or is that to much too ask on the bottom end???
you can see where this is going....LoL

Definitely going to do cam chest regardless

[02roadcling]

If the tensioners and lifters have not been done, they really should be. Other than that, if you are happy with the way it runs, leave it.
But, if you really need that 110", .......

All good advice...I should listen to myself....If it ain't broke ....don't fix it....definitely something to look into is re-do the camchest...The thought never really crossed my mind.

I'm happy with the way it runs ....Its not that I need a 110" with a 120HP its more of a want.

Is 95K too many miles to consider doing the heads with a cam upgrade over the Andrews 48 while its apart?

Build it now because you can. After you retire you will look back and be pissed at yourself if you can't pull it off.

Trust me! Is there anything you wish you could change or add to your past so far?

   cling

[Ohio HD]

An on the frugal upgrade if you did pull the heads and have port work done, have your cylinders bored to 103", new cast pistons fit, then you'll probably see another 100,000 miles from it. Also your tensioners and lifters as well.

That thought crossed my mind also...just do the top end but I'm thinking 110" drop on or is that to much too ask on the bottom end???
you can see where this is going....LoL

Definitely going to do cam chest regardless

Using your 86cc heads, going to 110 bore of 4.000" even with flat top pistons will give you over 10:1 compression, like 10.2:1. That's more than the 48 cams will take. So the you also need to change cams to something more appropriate to the compression.

103" will be right at the top of the 48 cams compression limit, but will still require a really good tune.

[Justpassingas]

If the tensioners and lifters have not been done, they really should be. Other than that, if you are happy with the way it runs, leave it.
But, if you really need that 110", .......

All good advice...I should listen to myself....If it ain't broke ....don't fix it....definitely something to look into is re-do the camchest...The thought never really crossed my mind.

I'm happy with the way it runs ....Its not that I need a 110" with a 120HP its more of a want.

Is 95K too many miles to consider doing the heads with a cam upgrade over the Andrews 48 while its apart?

Build it now because you can. After you retire you will look back and be pissed at yourself if you can't pull it off.

Trust me! Is there anything you wish you could change or add to your past so far?

   cling

LoL....your absolutely right!!!.....I keep hearing two voices one on each shoulder...build the110" 120HP on one shoulder and on the other side is don't touch and just do the cam chest & top end

[Justpassingas]

An on the frugal upgrade if you did pull the heads and have port work done, have your cylinders bored to 103", new cast pistons fit, then you'll probably see another 100,000 miles from it. Also your tensioners and lifters as well.

That thought crossed my mind also...just do the top end but I'm thinking 110" drop on or is that to much too ask on the bottom end???
you can see where this is going....LoL

Definitely going to do cam chest regardless

Using your 86cc heads, going to 110 bore of 4.000" even with flat top pistons will give you over 10:1 compression, like 10.2:1. That's more than the 48 cams will take. So the you also need to change cams to something more appropriate to the compression.

103" will be right at the top of the 48 cams compression limit, but will still require a really good tune.

Me bad....if I went the 110" drop on I'd be doing a cam & head upgrade with my concern being the bottom end....

I have a few good options to consider now .... do just the tensioners/lifters and be done with it would be the cheapest. Next option do a complete top end including head cam upgrade or option number three the complete rebuild the 110" 120HP motor that I don't need but WANT!

[Hossamania]

I did not need new heads, big bore, cams, pipe. But I never regret doing it. It brings a smile to my face every time I let that motor sing.
Don't forget to include a new clutch. You'll need it too.

[Justpassingas]

I did not need new heads, big bore, cams, pipe. But I never regret doing it. It brings a smile to my face every time I let that motor sing.
Don't forget to include a new clutch. You'll need it to.

Thanx Hoss...your not helping me any!...I did a Barnette clutch & spring when I did the cam many miles ago but if I do the motor the clutch will be addressed

[Ohio HD]

The answer then is you should rebuild the lower end if you wish to increase the HP by 50% to 60%.

So in that case no sense in playing, make a 117" while the case is apart. And at that, it's not much more to go 124" from that point. The best way to do this is what is my budget, and what do I want when I'm done. What are the requirements from the motor?

Fuel mileage important?
Motor longevity?
Access to parts when on long trips (OEM parts)
Smooth as stock running?
Run on any type of fuel without danger?
Won't overheat in traffic?

You can throw darts all day, but if you don't have a target goal, what are you going to achieve?

To make reliable 125 HP, budget TB, exhaust, good tune, etc., etc. The slope gets slick.

[les]

If your rides are around the neighborhood, then does not matter too much.  Riding until you're broken is not too bad to recover from.  However, if you're a serious cross country rider, then I'd pull it all apart and replace most everything, including a new flywheel assembly.  In other words, look more at the penalties on you if you break down and whether or not you're able to easily recover.

[Justpassingas]

The answer then is you should rebuild the lower end if you wish to increase the HP by 50% to 60%.

So in that case no sense in playing, make a 117" while the case is apart. And at that, it's not much more to go 124" from that point. The best way to do this is what is my budget, and what do I want when I'm done. What are the requirements from the motor?

Fuel mileage important?
Motor longevity?
Access to parts when on long trips (OEM parts)
Smooth as stock running?
Run on any type of fuel without danger?
Won't overheat in traffic?

You can throw darts all day, but if you don't have a target goal, what are you going to achieve?

To make reliable 125 HP, budget TB, exhaust, good tune, etc., etc. The slope gets slick.

Kind of what I figured about the lower end if I touch the top end

I've been in contact with an engine builder for ballpark price on a rebuild from the crank up with a few different cubic inch combos and what I'm looking for. Also thought about an S&S motor too but think a rebuild is better way to go Longevity is a priority and maybe upgrade primary as needed plus add an oil cooler.Im running a V&H Propipe so hopefully that won't need to be changed

[TorQuePimp]

A fresh cast piston 103 keeping the 48h ......mild head upgrade might surprise you

[Ohio HD]

A fresh cast piston 103 keeping the 48h ......mild head upgrade might surprise you

[Ironpig9]

Just Curious after reading all the replies. What lifters would you recommend (and new pushrods or not)?

[Propflux01]

S&S lifters. I used smith bros. pushrods in mine, only because I wanted the extra .010 the base circle of my 48's took from stock. Didn't really matter though, lifters would easily take up the difference. If your rods are not bent and roll nicely on a plate of glass, reuse them and worry not. BTW, if you like the pull of those 48's, wait till you go 103 with them.

[TorQuePimp]

A fresh cast piston 103 keeping the 48h ......mild head upgrade might surprise you

To add to this I have had 80+k mile engines apart
And IMO.....despite the crank looking good or feeling good the blade rods tends to take a beating.....at that high of miles a crank service and new or rebuilt rods would not be a bad idea.
If you are splitting the cases I'd his the idea of a bolt on 110 and bore the cases and use seasoned 110 cylinders and .010 over SE pistons or KB forged if you intend to get the miles out of it

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Have witnessed T/C cranks north of 130,000 w/o issues...that bike is heading to 200,000 currently....and an S&S 124" in Syracuse, NY, that has over 140,000.
Depends on the level of maintenance and/or abusiveness, the engine has endured.
Needing, and opinions of needing, are 2 different "needs".

[Pete_Vit]

If the tensioners and lifters have not been done, they really should be. Other than that, if you are happy with the way it runs, leave it.
But, if you really need that 110", .......

[Beave]

I've got an carbed 05 RK with 250k on stock crank. I changed lifters and hyd tensioners at 100k and 200k.  Went +.005 bore at 200k.  She still runs sweet.  I have never feared nor experienced any serious issues on the road and it's been as far as Homer AK.  When you get a good one and ride it regular they can last a long time.

[PC_Hater]

Ride it. Ride it until it breaks.
How often are you on full throttle wanting more?
Very rarely I think, otherwise you would have done the build years ago!

My bike is still an 88", changing down brings in all the power I need on my big heavy barge.

[Justpassingas]

I've got an carbed 05 RK with 250k on stock crank. I changed lifters and hyd tensioners at 100k and 200k.  Went +.005 bore at 200k.  She still runs sweet.  I have never feared nor experienced any serious issues on the road and it's been as far as Homer AK.  When you get a good one and ride it regular they can last a long time.

That's good to know...the more I sleep on it that's probably the way I'll go...

Ride it. Ride it until it breaks.
How often are you on full throttle wanting more?
Very rarely I think, otherwise you would have done the build years ago!

My bike is still an 88", changing down brings in all the power I need on my big heavy barge.

I'm thinking the same thing...freshen it up and ride it till it breaks.

I'm not often on full throttle but if I had it I'd certainly use it...it's more of a want  then a need.

[PC_Hater]

I've got an carbed 05 RK with 250k on stock crank. I changed lifters and hyd tensioners at 100k and 200k.  Went +.005 bore at 200k.  She still runs sweet.  I have never feared nor experienced any serious issues on the road and it's been as far as Homer AK.  When you get a good one and ride it regular they can last a long time.

That's good to know...the more I sleep on it that's probably the way I'll go...

Ride it. Ride it until it breaks.
How often are you on full throttle wanting more?
Very rarely I think, otherwise you would have done the build years ago!

My bike is still an 88", changing down brings in all the power I need on my big heavy barge.

I'm thinking the same thing...freshen it up and ride it till it breaks.

I'm not often on full throttle but if I had it I'd certainly use it...it's more of a want  then a need.

Same here!
At 63,000 miles I am waiting for the rattles to start and the bike to start using oil so I know it is time for a rebore and a valve job.
And some nice head work. Not going to 95" though.

[smoserx1]

If you have the $$$ now but are afraid in 2-3 years you won't, consider putting that money into a special bank account and forget about it for now.  I know you are on the fence about it upgrading but seem to be satisfied with your ride the way it is.  I ride an almost antique EG now (1999 with 212K on the clock) and I did not buy that bike to be a tire shredder, I bought it because I like the way an EG looks and always wanted one since I was a teenager.  If I wanted to go fast (and perhaps die younger) I would have bought a rice burner for half the cost.

I give my bike regular oil changes but I do not go OCD on maintenance.  Obviously I did not get this mileage out of the original valve train.  The cam stuff was replaced on a good will type warranty after a cam bearing failure at 34K.  Lots of folks said my engine would grenade from contamination...but it never happened.  I did 203 cams and new tensioners at 110K and later Andrews 21 conversion cams and hydraulic tensioners at around 150K.  Finally at about 178K I did a top end job to fix a cylinder base oil leak and went with 95 inch jugs, flat top pistons and low mileage used stock heads.  All this work except for the original 34K service I did myself.  The crank and tranny gearset have never been apart, so yes these motorcycles do last.  I would do the cam chest service, put the extra money in the bank and ride on.  your call.

[hihosilver]

did my 07 at 150,000 thought I heard noise, everything original, it was so clean it would have gone another 50,000 easy

[locker55]

I think the whole bike needs to be thought about here. When a lot miles are on the clock it's just not the motor.
the health of everything is a factor. Put a new motor on a high mileage everything else is not looking at the whole picture.
If not going to have funds in future then maybe invest funds now and with growth get a all new or newer whole bike later.
A high mileage anything can Nickle and dime you to death.
And if we do it right we don't want that when retired and on a fixed income.
It's a shame I see many customers in my job that are retired and didn't do it quite right and now their homes that they worked for their whole life's are falling apart round them because of money....O the roof leaks but it has a new hot water heater..... same thing with the bike.
Just another way of looking at it.
Don't fix what's not broke, that money can and will be spent else where....lol 

[Justpassingas]

UPDATE: Dropped the bike off at Hillside in February and just picked it up.The crank had .012 runout so at that point I was all in. Went with a S&S crank and bored it out to 107. 117 was an option but decided not to bore cases out. StgII heads with Woods gear drive cam. The final #'s 121HP  127TQ...Dyno sheet is posted in dyno section...I only have about 100 miles on it so far but very happy with the outcome. Worth the 5hr/300 mile drive. 

[Leed]

Cool!  That sounds nice.  Enjoy the "new" bike...

[Hossamania]

And after sitting in their shop for 5 months, I'm sure they were glad to see it go!

[Justpassingas]

4 months but who's counting...for some reason my dyno sheet didn't get posted...oh well

[Buglet]

  Looks like Hoss was trying to count, maybe he should use the new math.

[Hossamania]

220, 221, whatever it takes...
And they're still glad to have it out of the shop, 5 months, or only 4.

[TorQuePimp]

4 months but who's counting...for some reason my dyno sheet didn't get posted...oh well

Sheett was probably STD

[Dodgy]

Doing exactly the same now. Picked up a 4.375" crank,  some 110" cylinders, have some worked 110" on the shelf, S&S Hi-Comp pistons, S&S 625 easystart conversion cams, Screamin Eagle cam plate and hydraulic tensioner kit, S&S G Series. Just about to pull the motor and bore the cases. Trying to make a sleeper, but the sound might give it away when finished. Should be able to fry a tyre.