2011 RGU dead front cylinder question

[kd]

I recently installed a DynaTek shift minder and shift light to my Pingel electric speed shifter.  After finally getting some other wiring and exhaust work finished I installed the battery and tried to fire it up.  It starts and runs on the rear cylinder only. The front pipe is cold.  I disassembled the wiring connectors (from the coil) in the new shift minder system for inspection and found the orange male pin at the shift minder splitter for the coil had pushed out and I think was not connecting. The lock was not grabbing inside the connector plug.  I redid the connector as best I could with the old pin and the same result when I tried again.  I reinspected and the pin was out again so I used some cement to attach it to the other wires because I didn't have a replacement pin and it is now secure but still no front cylinder.  I do have continuity across the connectors so I feel there is a decent connection between the male / female pin assemblies.

I do not have access to a dealer at this time or I would simply buy a set of plugs and wires to try. I have yet to test the plug wire continuity (they are new within 7,000 miles) or haven't swapped the plugs across, but will do that next.

Here's my question(s).  Is it possible for the coil to lose one cylinder side?  Of the 4 wires to the coil connector are any one of them dedicated to the front or rear cylinder or is it dual fire? I don't have one to switch out and would have to order one to try it.  I would rather not if it is not possible to lose just one side. 

I appreciate any help I can get here that will save me a bunch of trouble shooting time by directing me to the high probability stuff first.  It's making me crazy not getting a leg over to test the new shift minder system.   

[Coyote]

It is possible to have only one side of the coil pack fail. Front and rear circuits are separate.

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[rigidthumper]

A bent pin inside the coil connector can push the sockets out of the housing, and cause issues.

[kd]

It is possible to have only one side of the coil pack fail. Front and rear circuits are separate.

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Thanks for the quick response guys.  I am getting full continuity from the coil power lead to each of the front and rear (A / C&D) and across the 2 cylinder posts (C&D).  There is no connection with A, C, D to the B Ion sensor post. I get a 3.1 reading on the 2000 ohms scale from both of the plug wire receptacle posts to the ion sensor lead B on both sides. There is no continuity from the plug wire receptacle to the power or either cylinder pin. Because I get the same front and rear cylinder values all across the tests, should I assume the coil is OK?

Rigid, The socket(s) in the coil connector (now the Dynatek splitter connector) look good, seem stable and test as having continuity. I used a thin safety pin (thinner than the actual pin) in the sockets to test the connection also to ensure they were still gripping the pins.  I did that across all 3 of the pairs.

[cheech]

I'm not super familiar with all of the Dynatek race products.
But do you happen to have the Shiftminder in this link
that has a big pink note saying: "Not for use on Twincam models!" ?

[kd]

I'm not super familiar with all of the Dynatek race products.
But do you happen to have the Shiftminder in this link
that has a big pink note saying: "Not for use on Twincam models!" ?

I was aware of that notice so I called the tech guys.  I had the system installed last year but because I wasn't sure about my shift light mount I didn't finish the last part to the light.  The bike ran great other than not having a shift light.  I removed the fuse to the Pingel shifter too but it was shifting before I did that.  I may call them again to see if this is a related symptom but our original discussion was more a caution about the shift light test feature could trigger a shif so clutch in was reqquired for safe arming of the system.  BTW, I got the shift minder from a member here and I understand he ran it successfully.

[cheech]

Their website for sure isn't very thorough.
There is that disclaimer but still they list these 2 part numbers:
DSM-2HD-EFI 
DSMS-2HD-EFI
Both say for 2007 TO 2012 H-D EFI models.
So a big  on the disclaimer.

[Sycho01]

I would disconnect the shift minder and shift light and see if it runs on both cylinders. This would prove the coil out.
With an ion sensing ignition if there is no compression on a cylinder the plug won't sense ions and no ignition. In my case I found a bent valve.

[kd]

Their website for sure isn't very thorough.
There is that disclaimer but still they list these 2 part numbers:
DSM-2HD-EFI 
DSMS-2HD-EFI
Both say for 2007 TO 2012 H-D EFI models.
So a big  on the disclaimer.

The Pingel tech I spoke to defaulted to having me call Dynatek about my issues. I confirmed with Dynatek these models are correct and in fact for twincam use.  He said all of their shift minders will work if you know how to mire them.  The DSM-2HD-EFI  is produced to be plug and play with the Pingel connector plugs.  The tech guy (Larry) was also willing to spend what ever time on the phone it took to help me with my problem. He had not encountered my problem and took great interest in sorting it out.  While on the line he had me try several things and left me with a couple of ideas.  He said if it still acted up but was OK out of the system to send it all to him and he would confirm / replace it.    One thing I found interesting, was that he said the shift minder is actually intended to run a shift light only.  It is just a coincidence that the light signal can also be used to trigger a shift.  Pingel produces the module that takes the signal from the shift light circuit (or has someone else make it) and puts it to use by bypassing the shift button circuit and causes a momentary kill / shift sequence.  For that reason it's a bit of a Heinz 57 to each of the 2 companies that share the components. 

I would disconnect the shift minder and shift light and see if it runs on both cylinders. This would prove the coil out.
With an ion sensing ignition if there is no compression on a cylinder the plug won't sense ions and no ignition. In my case I found a bent valve.

Sycho01, The Dynatek technician said to do the same thing only he wanted me to remove the Pingel shifter stuff.  I really wanted to know where the problem was so I took the harness apart first and reinspected, cleaned and reassembled the circuit pins and sockets (more than once).  I don't know which pin it was but I finally got the cylinder back.  Unfortunately, now the shift button will shift with the key on, not running "but" when started on the lift, (clutch in of course) and running, the shift button mistakenly fires the shift light but there is no momentary engine kill / shift action. (the normal shift light check that happens when you turn on the ignition no longer works and the engine kill should show as a blip on the tach) I noticed  that the harness connector to the coil signal wires that talks to the extra (auto shift) Pingel module are 2 different styles and may be part of the problem so I will have to sort that out now.   

BTW, the pin that I had to re-secure in the Shift Minder harness was the ion sensing jumper and not the front cylinder feed to the coil.