Preparing to refresh my first top-end, pics and questions

[Pete_Vit]

Yep, I have an electronic and hard SM and bookmarked the online parts manual that has the exploded views and part numbers.

I've replaced the rocker box gaskets before with the help of Pete. But this is my first time tackling it alone and then going further.


I have boxes labeled for front and rear and will bag and tag the parts to match fr/rr, in/ex. And I will be taking pictures as well, for my use and to share here so that I know what I'm looking at. Should be able to get both rocker boxes off tomorrow, might get the heads and jugs off too.

I did my base gaskets 2 years ago, took my jugs and heads to Rodney's, @ 110,000 miles, I needed some valves, new guides and seats, the jugs were good, just a freshen up, I got new pistons and rings, like others have said it depends on how deep you want to get, I did go too far I guess with new hardware (studs and head bolts) but that was my choice.
the job was not so bad, just took my time, step by step, the most important was the touque pattern and values, I think you'll be Ok if you just want to do the base gaskets, I forget how many miles you had on that bike 

Hey Pete, Do you know if they still do machine work at Rodney's?

yes they  do  the only thing is Eddie is 'contracting' there now, so he works when he's needed, but I've never had any issues with any of there work

[twincamzz]

When I did the top end on my Evo I used a "base gasket bypass pig tail kit "
Mid USA part #60146.
You use the supplied tap to thread the oil return holes in the cylinder then install the pigtail with about one inch left protruding to be inserted into the crankcase. Eliminates the chance of an oil leak in this area for good.

[jsachs1]

When I did the top end on my Evo I used a "base gasket bypass pig tail kit "
Mid USA part #60146.
You use the supplied tap to thread the oil return holes in the cylinder then install the pigtail with about one inch left protruding to be inserted into the crankcase. Eliminates the chance of an oil leak in this area for good.

IMO, the PIG TAIL kits, are the best parts that have ever been developed for the factory cylinder to case. Just be careful installing them, as you're working with an angle. You STILL need to use base gaskets.
John

[twincamzz]

When I did the top end on my Evo I used a "base gasket bypass pig tail kit "
Mid USA part #60146.
You use the supplied tap to thread the oil return holes in the cylinder then install the pigtail with about one inch left protruding to be inserted into the crankcase. Eliminates the chance of an oil leak in this area for good.

IMO, the PIG TAIL kits, are the best parts that have ever been developed for the factory cylinder to case. Just be careful installing them, as you're working with an angle. You STILL need to use base gaskets.
John

Yes, base gaskets are definitely necessary.  Was not trying to imply they were not needed.
Thanks for chiming in on these Mr. Sachs...good to know a man with your experience thinks highly of them too !

[Pete_Vit]

When I did the top end on my Evo I used a "base gasket bypass pig tail kit "
Mid USA part #60146.
You use the supplied tap to thread the oil return holes in the cylinder then install the pigtail with about one inch left protruding to be inserted into the crankcase. Eliminates the chance of an oil leak in this area for good.

IMO, the PIG TAIL kits, are the best parts that have ever been developed for the factory cylinder to case. Just be careful installing them, as you're working with an angle. You STILL need to use base gaskets.
John

Yes, base gaskets are definitely necessary.  Was not trying to imply they were not needed.
Thanks for chiming in on these Mr. Sachs...good to know a man with your experience thinks highly of them too !

nice to see there are some other options

[Buglet]

   Not saying nothing bad about pig tails never used them just machine the bottom of the cylinders use a good gasket never had one leak after that.

[SixShooter14]

Pulled the rear off last night.
I left the cylinders on for now to keep anything out of the case. Once I find a good machine shop, I'll pull them and take them there.

Also going to clean up the pistons while waiting for the machinist. Still undecided about the pigtails, but the Rockout Lockers have been ordered.

[Pete_Vit]

Pulled the rear off last night.
I left the cylinders on for now to keep anything out of the case. Once I find a good machine shop, I'll pull them and take them there.

Also going to clean up the pistons while waiting for the machinist. Still undecided about the pigtails, but the Rockout Lockers have been ordered.

looks familiar

[FSG]

What's the purpose of drilling out the tubes? just for additional clearance?

   the tops of the tubes are deformed, drilling them out helps, I just drill down 1-1/2" because of the drill bit I have, others drill all the way through

even the S&S tubes are deformed AND every bit of clearance recovered helps

[SixShooter14]

What's the purpose of drilling out the tubes? just for additional clearance?

   the tops of the tubes are deformed, drilling them out helps, I just drill down 1-1/2" because of the drill bit I have, others drill all the way through

even the S&S tubes are deformed AND every bit of clearance recovered helps

Is this something I can do with a hand drill? I don't have a drill press.

Perhaps a dremel and grinder bit would do the trick?

[JW113]

I wrap a piece of tape around them to mark, then use a dremel with cut off wheel. A cakewalk.

-JW

[FSG]

Is this something I can do with a hand drill? I don't have a drill press.

Perhaps a dremel and grinder bit would do the trick?

too easy to do damage with a hand drill .......  use a dremel

some reading => https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,69838.0

[kd]

Six, if you know someone with a lathe, even a small one, ask them to chuck up the tubes in a 3 jaw and pass a 5/8 drill bit about a couple of inches deep into them.  It's a simple set up and delivery.  All you need is the equipment.  A machine shop may charge you but I can't see it being much due to the quick simplicity of the job.

[FSG]

A machine shop may charge you but I can't see it being much due to the quick simplicity of the job.

  I did all my own and some for others for $0 .........  a brotherhood freebie

[jls 64]

A machine shop may charge you but I can't see it being much due to the quick simplicity of the job.

  I did all my own and some for others for $0 .........  a brotherhood freebie

  nice.I like to help a brother to.

[SixShooter14]

sadly, I don't know anyone where I live now. But back home, 120miles west of here, I know a guy with a mill that might do it. So if'n I can't get it done before then, I'll take the tubes there.

I am pretty decent with a dremel though, I could use a stone and open them up some.

[kd]

   You can see the cut is centered and even when you use the drill bit.

[SixShooter14]

Alright folks, so while I wait on getting the cylinder bases machined, I have a future question.

When should I change the oil? Right now it's still got the old oil in it from last year.

Should I change oil/filter now? or wait until it's assembled? (before the first start)
Or wait until I get it started and let it get hot, then change?

Just planning ahead for now. I'm heading to Canada tomorrow, so no working on it for at least another week.
Thanks

[Burnout]

I'd use the old oil as break-in oil unless it is bad. (or synthetic)

You're only going to run it for a few miles and not beat on it.

[SixShooter14]

I'd use the old oil as break-in oil unless it is bad. (or synthetic)

You're only going to run it for a few miles and not beat on it.

Yeah, I was trying to decide if I wanted to change it, then break-in, then change it again.

The oil was changed in....May, I think. It has probably 3k on it?

[rigidthumper]

Id start with fresh oil, and filter. 

[Pete_Vit]

Id start with fresh oil, and filter.

that's what I did with both motors, I probably didn't need to with the Big Twin since it was just a teardown and rebuild, but the Sporty, since the motor went belly up  I did

[SixShooter14]

OK, I'll go ahead and change it before I fire it back up. In the end...oil is cheap.

[Burnout]

If you are that concerned, you should also clean out the oil tank.
You'll "Potty mouth" yourself when you see how much junk is laying in the bottom! 

[SixShooter14]

Alright folks, some 12hr workdays and a holiday weekend in a Canadian car plant have delayed progress a bit. But I've managed to get the pistons cleaned up.

Question time...How clean is clean enough?

Should I try to clean off the piston skirts and ring grooves? There's some discoloring around the pin holes seen below.

Thanks