Crazy idea? Routing Oil Lines on bottom breather

[rageglide]

Or a pinch clamp on the feed line when it sits for a while

New spring and ball probably won't fix the issue.  Cut the seat like you do with plumbing valves will.  A marginal seat might benefit with the hammer method.  Or buy a new pump.

[Mark222]

OK, so put a barb on your vent line. If the bike has sat for a while, push an extension hose on the barb, put the other end in the oil tank fill, fire the bike and let it run for a while. Shut off, remove extension, go.

Fixed!

-JW

JW, we think alike.  That is exactly what I have been doing, but looking for a better solution.

Mark

[JW113]

OK but Mark, I know you know what "the better solution" is, right?


-JW

[Mark222]

 

Yeah JW, I do...........

But I spent the $9 bucks on the new spring and ball a while back, so I dropped them in today. Gave me something to do on a gloomy Saturday, even if the odds of curing the leak by is slim. (Can't tell some guys anything, lol)

Thanks to all....  I know what I need to do......

Mark

[david lee]

by  just droping in a new ball and spring stop bi pass seepage

[JW113]

Dave...! Pot is legal here in California now... but I'm coming down to Oz to party with youze guyz. Evidently a lot more potent than what we'z got.



-JW

[david lee]

Dave...! Pot is legal here in California now... but I'm coming down to Oz to party with youze guyz. Evidently a lot more potent than what we'z got.



-JW

never touched the stuff

[Burnout]

I didn't inhale.   

[rol427]

On my 1991 Softail I pull the crankcase breather line from the carb,put an extension on it and feed it into a drain pan when starting after sitting too long. If the crankcase has too much oil in it the puking will stop after a few minutes and I reconnect the line. The Evo's really should be warm(ish) before riding anyway.
Roland

[turboprop]

Not related to the OP, but seems the thread has drifted. Here is the fix to shovel & evo cases filling with oil.

http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/showthread.php?t=87

[Will-Run]

As always, straight to the point.

[Burnout]

The Evo's really should be warm(ish) before riding anyway.

As long as you don't idle it to "warm it up", the pistons need oil......
Best to just ride it away and be nice to it until the oil tank is hot.

Then ride it like you stole it!   

[Hossamania]

The Evo's really should be warm(ish) before riding anyway.

As long as you don't idle it to "warm it up", the pistons need oil......
Best to just ride it away and be nice to it until the oil tank is hot.

Then ride it like you stole it!   

Pretty much the best advice for ALL motors, no matter the vehicle.

[SixShooter14]

The Evo's really should be warm(ish) before riding anyway.

As long as you don't idle it to "warm it up", the pistons need oil......
Best to just ride it away and be nice to it until the oil tank is hot.

Then ride it like you stole it!   

I always idle at 'full choke' until the rear rocker cover is warm. It's a pretty high idle, but I do still baby it the first couple miles.

[nibroc]

.... ...should be a sticky..

[Burnout]

"I always idle at 'full choke' until the rear rocker cover is warm."

This is extreme, probably wasteful and may blacken the oil prematurely.
Although, that is better than partially closing the enrichener to slow the motor which results in a super rich condition.

You don't need to "warm it up".
There is no benefit, it actually warms up faster if you ride it away.
Just don't hammer it or wring it out until the oil tank is warm.

I don't use the enrichener any longer than it takes to get the plugs warm enough that it won't stall.

[Hossamania]

I have to say, I rarely let mine idle a full minute unless it's really cold out ('20s), usually close to 30 seconds. Then a gentle ride until warm, working the choke slowly in after a mile or so. I don't think I have ever checked my rocker box for heat. Not saying it's right, it's just what I do.
I have heard that Evos like a little extra heat at startup to prevent base gasket leaks. Six, you are probably right on the money with your method.
I have also forgotten to push the choke in (it sticks the first time when cold, then automatically goes in) and ridden quite a few miles with no ill effects, though I feel like an idiot when I do it, and it's not ideal.

[capn]

I tried the lapping method from Big Boys.Did not work in my case.76 FLH.Had to buy a new pump. Yes evos need warming before riding.Because once the base gaskets leak they continue to leak no matter what you do.

[Burnout]

EVO base gaskets leak because the MoCo took shortcuts on machining the bottom of the cylinder.

The head gasket would leak before the base on a cold motor if that were true.

Prolonged idling is not good for your HD.

Actually don't listen to me, there are HD mechanics that need to pay their rent. I don't want to be blamed for them not getting as many top end jobs.

My 87 has many many miles (100K?) on it (and has been beaten like an ugly stepchild) yet still has the original pistons and rings and shows no signs of giving up.
I have replaced the crap base and rocker gaskets it came with, 7 years ago....

[cheech]

Prolonged idling is not good for your HD.

Actually don't listen to me, there are HD mechanics that need to pay their rent. I don't want to be blamed for them not getting as many top end jobs.

You're always making too much sense. 
And not to say everything Harley prints is gospel. But here's a clip out of the starting procedure out of a 92 owners manual I have on PDF. Think I seen it in every one and the service manuals also maybe before injection.
[attach=0]

[Deye76]

The service manual instructions are for stock engines=cast pistons. Those with forged require a little longer warm up. maybe "require" is the wrong word, but that's what I do with forged.

[Hossamania]

Prolonged idling is not good for your HD.

Actually don't listen to me, there are HD mechanics that need to pay their rent. I don't want to be blamed for them not getting as many top end jobs.

You're always making too much sense. 
And not to say everything Harley prints is gospel. But here's a clip out of the starting procedure out of a 92 owners manual I have on PDF. Think I seen it in every one and the service manuals also maybe before injection.
[attach=0,msg1337540]

This is the way I've always done it. The 15 to 30 second idle, then ride instruction is the one I have always tried pass on.

[cheech]

The service manual instructions are for stock engines=cast pistons. Those with forged require a little longer warm up. maybe "require" is the wrong word, but that's what I do with forged.

Fair enough, but I think they'll be just fine as long as you're moderate.

This is the way I've always done it. The 15 to 30 second idle, then ride instruction is the one I have always tried pass on.

Lol, Early mornings to be courteous I don't even make it that long. Never have chance to sit and idle. Driveway separates neighbors house and mine, about 10 feet wide. Garage behind house, push bike about 100 feet to hill at end of drive. Roll it down hill, crank it up while coasting into street, in gear, clutch out, just high idle to first light about 50 yards away. By time traffic goes, fins have some heat. On the rev limiter getting on highway about another quarter of a mile. All with forged pistons. Maybe they'll look like crap when/if ever it's tore down.