Clutch options for limited grip strength

[jimrookie]

Hi, I am having an issue with the left hand and can not pull the clutch. What are my options to combat this? 05 Roadglide

[rigidthumper]

HD sells lighter springs and different angle ball & ramp pieces.
Mueller makes an easy pull ball & ramp assembly that helps a lot.
AIM-Tamachi has a variable pressure plate that reduces lever effort.

[jmorton10]

The AIM is a great option.

~John

[PoorUB]

Like the other post, the '06 spring and release ramps were different, and the pull was a bunch lighter. If the engine is built at all the spring might be to light if you get on it. You could try the '06 release ramps with the spring you have, it will be noticeably lighter.

25604-00A
25605-00A

About $12 each

[Jim Bronson]

The AIM is a great option.

~John

That's what I use with my tire shredder kit. It made a huge difference in clutch effort. The Mueller is good too, but I had trouble getting it to stay in adjustment. HD sells the AIM VPC if you don't mind paying the Harley tax.

[SmokyOwl]

There's this EZ-Pull Clutch assist kit by V-Twin, it's works only with cables though.  I bought one but have yet to install it.  It extends the arm of the clutch for (claimed) 40% better leverage on it.  Only problem I saw with it is it has a little black plastic "extender" for the cable at the lever, I'd suggest having a machine shop machine one out of aluminum.  However for my application my cable is already a little short and the extra 1/4" of length should actually help with future cable or lever swaps.

[kd]

It is good to remember that the Variable pressure plate actually increases the amount of pull required as the RPM increases.

[Ohio HD]

You might look into this as a solution.


1FNGR

[Jim Bronson]

It is good to remember that the Variable pressure plate actually increases the amount of pull required as the RPM increases.

True, but it is a quick pull when shifting gears, and I don't notice the increased effort. The main difference is felt while stopped with the clutch lever held in for a while. I guess it depends on the exact nature of the OP's physical limitation. If he truly can't pull the lever, then maybe he should try the Muller. I don't have a limitation. For me it was mainly a matter of comfort.

[ThumperDeuce]

Lock up with weaker springs to start off and then

http://www.pingelonline.com/prodcat/electric-speed-shifters.asp

[kd]

Thumper, you still need to use the clutch for stop and take off with that shifter.  I realize you say to use with weaker springs, but they have to be at least strong enough to not slip under heavier throttle applications and uphill or into the wind while loaded etc..

[jimrookie]

Thanks for all the input, I already have clutch slippage when I wack it hard in 4th and 5th so I am not sure lighter springs will work and if the variable pressure plate is harder to pull at higher RPMs that won't work.
I like the idea of the 1 finger lever set up. and maybe with the addition of the easy pull clutch ramp, I might have a chance.
just looking for options in case I can't get my left-hand grip strength back

[turboprop]

Hi, I am having an issue with the left hand and can not pull the clutch. What are my options to combat this? 05 Roadglide

Lots of responses so far about ways to increase the mechanical advantage (MA) or reduced plate pressure. IMO both approaches fall short.

Increased mechanical advantage can be achieved at either end of the cable. At the ever end by use of various levers and at the transmission end by use of different ramps or extenders (Mueller). Regardless of where the MA is achieved the end result is the same, reduced pressure plate travel in exchange for a lighter pull. Not a fan of reduced plate travel but some say it works great. Best thing ever, etc.

Lighter spring(s) in the clutch assembly will not only provide lighter lever pull but also a reduction in the amount of torque the clutch can hold. Lacking details of the application (power, vehicle weight, resistance), it is hard to swag if lighter spring(s) will work. A little 883 sporty can easily get by with a lighter spring. A heavy weight bagger with a giant windshield and a built 124 will not tolerate a lighter spring.

A better approach would be to use an aftermarket clutch that offers increased surface area through the use of wider and/or more plates. The increased contact area will require less spring pressure than an oem sized clutch pack to hold the same amount of torque.  There are several manufacturers that offer clutches like this.

Another approach would be the Rekluse auto clutch. I have no experience with this pack but the manufacturer says the lever does not have to be used to take off, shift gears or stop. I bet if you go into the home page of this forum and search Rekluse there will be several threads about this clutch.

https://rekluse.com/product/radiusx-cruiser/

[kd]

    This is good advice not knowing any of the bike specs.  I have near 150 / 150 and needed a better clutch with more surface area.  It still required heavy springs so the next step was the Muller lever.  I use the Muller lever which gives a reduced pressure plate travel.  It works well if you know how to adjust your clutch cable to a very fine clearance (much less than OEM) to take advantage of what travel you have left.  It did give me a huge reduction in lever pull.  To compensate for the reduced travel I purchased an Oberon clutch lever / handle and that gave me back enough travel to put the plate travel back into the acceptable .070 lift range.

All of this is not free.  It sounds like you need a clutch or springs anyway (unless it's adjustment).    A good clutch usually means a hub too.  That's where they get the extra area for wider friction discs.  I added a basket because I am immature the way I ride.     The reduction lever you have I can't comment on.  I have never seen the clutch lever Ohio posted befor but I suspect it's another way to do what mine does.  All of this adds up to around $1,300 to $1,500.   

With the Rekluse you get a clutch too.  I took a quick look but couldn't find a cost.   It may be your best bet.   

[RTMike]

The Rekluse is around 1300 in Canada I will be installing it in a 2016 Limited this week.

[Ratfade]

A couple of months ago I had the misfortune to fracture my left arm. No cast was required, but pulling the clutch lever hurt  like a son-of-a-bitch. I was looking for a fix, and I read a lot of good things about the Burley Lite Clutch.
Fortunately, the fracture began to heal, and with the help of of one of those grip strengthen things, I didn't need to mod the bike. But if I needed it, I still think I'd give the Burley a try.

[kd]

The Muller ramp assembly accomplishes the same thing as a the Burley lever with the same negative effects.  Do some searches on here.  There's been lots of conversations about them all.  You should be aware of the negatives and how to overcome them before you dive in.  I suspect there's plenty of these devices sitting on the shelves after some folks couldn't deal with the results.  Don't just read the sales pitch and shell out the bucks.

[jimrookie]

It seems the Rekluse cost of parts $849.00  plus the Pingle might be the way to go $1155 my bike has 98 HP and 109 TQ it still pulls harder than a stock 2020 CVO . I was going to have the drive train gone through so may have to add this at same time.
Thanks again for all your help.

[sbaumann14]

Put the Rekluse in my wifes trike....best thing i ever did other than marry her

[rhuff]

The Muller ramp assembly accomplishes the same thing as a the Burley lever with the same negative effects.  Do some searches on here.  There's been lots of conversations about them all.  You should be aware of the negatives and how to overcome them before you dive in.  I suspect there's plenty of these devices sitting on the shelves after some folks couldn't deal with the results.  Don't just read the sales pitch and shell out the bucks.

I tend to agree.  I had the Mueller and while it greatly reduced the clutch pull, it tended to end up out of spec and needed lots of adjustment.  And it was a PITA to constantly be adjusting. 

[kd]

Once you figure out the secret and adjust it correctly all is good.  It needs to be set COLD with almost no cable free play at the handle.  I'm talkin barely noticeable.  When it warms up you magically have more clearance.  Having a spring on the cable inside the transmission cover makes it easier once you know how to feel that in the mix.   My Bandit clutch was set up with extra shims to make sure it wouldn't slip on the dyno and was almost a 2 hander.  The Muller (not Mueller BTW  ) made it almost like stock again so I left the shims in.  With almost 150 square I can't make it slip.  That was the goal and it got me there.

[FSG]

KD      

[fleetmechanic]

When the reduced effort ball and ramp kits came out to fit the '05 and earlier touring models the parts guys at my dealer took all the boxes and wrote "Clutch Kit for Girls" on them.  But they did help. I know several beefy riders who were happy to get them.

[FSG]

I'd bet not one of them knew HD used 15 Deg Ramps in some 1990 Models 

[Jim Bronson]

The Muller ramp assembly accomplishes the same thing as a the Burley lever with the same negative effects.  Do some searches on here.  There's been lots of conversations about them all.  You should be aware of the negatives and how to overcome them before you dive in.  I suspect there's plenty of these devices sitting on the shelves after some folks couldn't deal with the results.  Don't just read the sales pitch and shell out the bucks.

I tend to agree.  I had the Mueller and while it greatly reduced the clutch pull, it tended to end up out of spec and needed lots of adjustment.  And it was a PITA to constantly be adjusting.

That was my experience too. After a few months and hours of attempting to fine-tune it, I bought a VPC. Works great with no adjustment required. It is a bit larger in diameter than stock, so changing the primary fluid might be a bit tricky, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.