ABS brake bleed

[Smokin Sam]

I am trying to put some apes on a 2012 glide. I need to extend the brake and clutch lines. Does anyone have a way to bleed ABS without a digi tech? 

[2017FLHTK]

There's a company that makes an aftermarket device that does the same thing that the DigiTech does:

http://infotechmercenary.com/shop/

Cost is $179, but still cheaper than taking it to the dealership and at least you get a tool out of the deal.

[Coyote]

Any indy with a Centurion can bleed them. Twin Scan will do it as well. This has been discussed many, many times. There is no way to get it right without one of the tools.

[Norton Commando]

Any indy with a Centurion can bleed them. Twin Scan will do it as well. This has been discussed many, many times. There is no way to get it right without one of the tools.

I agree.

Without one of the aforementioned tools you cannot properly bleed the brakes as the fluid in the ABS circuit will not be "released". 

I have the Twin Scan tool and bleed my '12 FLHTK annually using low viscosity brake fluid.

Jason 

[Rockout Rocker Products]

As noted lots of info on the forum about this. The infomercenary unit is a one trick pony, and is loaded into an Android tablet. The TwinScan is more expensive, but does a whole lot more. I bought the TS & have no regrets.

[rbabos]

As noted lots of info on the forum about this. The infomercenary unit is a one trick pony, and is loaded into an Android tablet. The TwinScan is more expensive, but does a whole lot more. I bought the TS & have no regrets.

I bought the TS as well pror to Jason's tool but in all honesty I don't use any of the other features since my other tuning programs can do those. I sold the WOGO3 long ago that it's the main feature justifies the TS. For a one trick special basic tool, the infomercenary is a better bang for the buck.
Ron

[CVOThunder]

So with a 2011 CVO and a 2015 Road Glide I guess I'd need to get 2 different units to match the different pinouts. Both of course have the ABS. Wanted the Twin Scan 4 but then read where I'd need the TS2 for the older bike. Cheaper to just get 2 of the basic tools than 2 of the TS's. Am I missing something or does that sound about right? I see there's a dual mode flush utility and it might cover both. I'll check it when I get to my other computer as it's blocked at work.

[road-dawgs1]

So with a 2011 CVO and a 2015 Road Glide I guess I'd need to get 2 different units to match the different pinouts. Both of course have the ABS. Wanted the Twin Scan 4 but then read where I'd need the TS2 for the older bike. Cheaper to just get 2 of the basic tools than 2 of the TS's. Am I missing something or does that sound about right? I see there's a dual mode flush utility and it might cover both. I'll check it when I get to my other computer as it's blocked at work.

http://infotechmercenary.com/product/itm-abs-dual-mode-flush-utility/ This one is dual mode that will do both years of your bike.

[rbabos]

Bud of mine bought both the J1850 for his v rod and the Canbus for the SG. Both units from Infomercenary worked fine.
Ron

[CVOThunder]

Thanks gents, appreciate the replies.

[Boe Cole]

I've had success over the years not doing a complete bleed on brakes.  I've mostly done this with master cylinders but it should work for new lines also.  While not being familiar with your bike, I'd replace the line and bleed the line taking special care not to let air into the line.  With that accomplished, I'd attach the line to the end point and continue bleeding in order to only have fluid touching fluid (if that makes sense) and tighten the connectors while still bleeding.  If done carefully, you will not have to bleed the whole system.

Good luck.

[kd]

I've had success over the years not doing a complete bleed on brakes.  I've mostly done this with master cylinders but it should work for new lines also.  While not being familiar with your bike, I'd replace the line and bleed the line taking special care not to let air into the line.  With that accomplished, I'd attach the line to the end point and continue bleeding in order to only have fluid touching fluid (if that makes sense) and tighten the connectors while still bleeding.  If done carefully, you will not have to bleed the whole system.

Good luck.

  How does that cause the brake fluid to pass through the ABS spool valves. If you look at a schematic, you'll see that the ABS unit is bypassed until activated in a brake lock-up situation or by using one of the fore mentioned devices.   The fluid that stays in the ABS unit and what it does to the valves is the problem.

[Boe Cole]

I've had success over the years not doing a complete bleed on brakes.  I've mostly done this with master cylinders but it should work for new lines also.  While not being familiar with your bike, I'd replace the line and bleed the line taking special care not to let air into the line.  With that accomplished, I'd attach the line to the end point and continue bleeding in order to only have fluid touching fluid (if that makes sense) and tighten the connectors while still bleeding.  If done carefully, you will not have to bleed the whole system.

Good luck.

  How does that cause the brake fluid to pass through the ABS spool valves. If you look at a schematic, you'll see that the ABS unit is bypassed until activated in a brake lock-up situation or by using one of the fore mentioned devices.   The fluid that stays in the ABS unit and what it does to the valves is the problem.

It doesn't - the idea is to go to the end of the line being replaced and then performing the procedure i described above.  This avoids the whole bleeding operation through the abs module.  In other words, since the line terminates before or at the abs module, that is where the original line is disconnected and the new line connected.  If the new line is full of fluid via bleeding to that point, then upon connecting the line to the module with both having fluid should eliminate the need to do a complete bleed.

[kd]

I've had success over the years not doing a complete bleed on brakes.  I've mostly done this with master cylinders but it should work for new lines also.  While not being familiar with your bike, I'd replace the line and bleed the line taking special care not to let air into the line.  With that accomplished, I'd attach the line to the end point and continue bleeding in order to only have fluid touching fluid (if that makes sense) and tighten the connectors while still bleeding.  If done carefully, you will not have to bleed the whole system.

Good luck.

  How does that cause the brake fluid to pass through the ABS spool valves. If you look at a schematic, you'll see that the ABS unit is bypassed until activated in a brake lock-up situation or by using one of the fore mentioned devices.   The fluid that stays in the ABS unit and what it does to the valves is the problem.

It doesn't - the idea is to go to the end of the line being replaced and then performing the procedure i described above.  This avoids the whole bleeding operation through the abs module.  In other words, since the line terminates before or at the abs module, that is where the original line is disconnected and the new line connected.  If the new line is full of fluid via bleeding to that point, then upon connecting the line to the module with both having fluid should eliminate the need to do a complete bleed.

I guess my point is that the fluid that is between the inlet line and the outlet line (in the body of the module) that is capture by the spool valves never moves out and it's that old fluid that depreciates and causes corrosion in the valve body.  Condensation build-up in the fluid makes acid and that corrodes the close tolerance spool valve, freezing it in place.  The next thing that can happen is you lose all brakes in one or both sides.

I think Coyote was the one that took a seized one apart and posted the pics here a few years ago.  IIRC he had to destroy the module to get it apart it was so bad. It was an ugly white festered mess..  The part that I can't compute is how the MOCO got fed approval on this ABS system.  The federal  brake standard (at least in Canada so I suspect the US too) says the regular brakes have to work if the ABS unit fails.  These don't and some members here actually had it happen and may chime in and say theirs failed completely because the module seized.

What these different devices being discussed do is exercise the valves moving fluid back and forth in the module and that causes an exchange (freshening) of fluid as it's being bled.  Apparently you can do something similar in a parking lot or on the road surface by making panic stops that activate the system and make it vibrate.  You can feel it happening in the brake pedal or lever.  I do it often. That's what the Twin Scan and other units do but in the shop instead of on the road.

Added later:

  I just went back and read the opening post..    The OP was only changing the line and I forgot that after all the side bar about bleeding units.  I do understand what you are describing now though.  After installing, you can also crack the line a couple more times under pressure and push some more fluid out.  The air gets moved to the source of the leak at the fitting the same as a bleeder fitting / valve.    You still won't bleed the ABS though.  You are just bleeding the new longer brake line.

[Coyote]

There is no way to get it right without one of the tools.

If you think you can do this without an electronic bleed you don't understand how the system works.

[kd]

   It turns out Boe was describing how to cheat by just changing the line and NOT bleeding the ABS.   Not really what the OP was asking but it's something I do carefully when I detach, plug and then re-attach one of the sidecar rigs.  I do usually follow up with a proper bleed but don't expect the ABS to have any fluid moved through it.

I'll add that I do get my 2011 RGU bled electronically every 2 years and considered buying a machine.

[Boe Cole]

  It turns out Boe was describing how to cheat by just changing the line and NOT bleeding the ABS.   Not really what the OP was asking but it's something I do carefully when I detach, plug and then re-attach one of the sidecar rigs.  I do usually follow up with a proper bleed but don't expect the ABS to have any fluid moved through it.

I'll add that I do get my 2011 RGU bled electronically every 2 years and considered buying a machine.

Exactly what I was trying to say - this method does not replace bleeding the whole system - only the line to the abs.  A full bleed does require the proper tools which should be done at least every two years.