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Fuel pump question

Started by Mule, February 13, 2020, 05:38:38 PM

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Mule

My brother just called me and his fuel pump is not working on his 2001 heritage softail. What replacement pump works the best for ease of installation and durability? Thanks!

kd

Is he sure it's the pump and not the hose in the tank. Can he hear it run?   That was a particularly susceptible vintage for perforation problems.  Or maybe if he can't hear it, it may be his kill switch or maybe it's just off?
KD

Mule

He ran the checks as far as I know, No pump noise, fires right off if you put a little fuel down the intake.  Does anyone sell the 75132-01 these days or is it all aftermarket?  What about the Quantum fuel pumps? Good bad , ugly?

PoorUB

Keep in mind the fuel pump runs for just a few seconds when the key is turned on. Then it is off until the engine is cranked over.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

Mule

I know that much! just looking for suggestions on what everyone here is using for replacements. I will be Hauling it up here on my trailer and doing the replacement, if it needs it after I check it out in person. My Brother lives about 45 miles west of me, so I haven't checked any thing out up close.


chaos901

That looks like a handy website right there.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

Mule

The fuel pump factory pumps all require a new different power plug to be soldered on, The quantum pumps use the factory plug and come with a lifetime warranty...

tomcat64

Quote from: Mule on February 13, 2020, 06:10:43 PM
He ran the checks as far as I know, No pump noise, fires right off if you put a little fuel down the intake.  Does anyone sell the 75132-01 these days or is it all aftermarket?  What about the Quantum fuel pumps? Good bad , ugly?

that part # has been superseded a few times it is now 75132-01D, it is still available put we don't keep it in stock..

Mule

All of the dealerships I have contacted say that the 75132-01D is back ordered .  and no luck finding it on line except for used.

Pirsch Fire Wagon

75132-01D is readily available from numerous dealerships CONUS and regional supply.
Tom

Mule

I found one in Bakersfield ca., 150  mile drive. They weren't willing to ship...

Mule

Called back today got a different counter guy, they are going to ship it Tuesday!

Mule

 I have noticed that the check valve and hose assembly on the one's I have seen have no clamp , Is that just the way they are because of the limited space to go into the threaded hole or do you put your own clamp on it?

kd

 :scratch:   :nix:  Can you ask that in a way we know what your talking about.   :wink:   :hyst:

or .... did you mean for this post to go into your other fuel pump thread?   :SM:
KD

Mule

Maybe your brain works differently than mine, The Check valve that goes into the bottom of the tank, that the fuel injection hose attaches to on the outside of the tank! The replacement check valve comes with a hose already attached, and no clamp where the hose for the inside of the tank attaches to the check valve on the inside of the tank. It is the hose that goes to the from the fuel filter outlet to the check valve. I don't know how to explain it any simpler!

Pirsch Fire Wagon

The Fuel Tank Check Valve has the line connected to it during manufacturing. The Pump end requires a clamp. On the MM there are two. A supply and a Return. If that's what you're referring to.
Tom

rigidthumper

The check valve side has barbs to prevent the hose from coming off, so no clamp needed. The fuel pressure regulator side does not, so a clamp ensures it stays in place.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Mule

Thanks , that's what I needed to know...

Mule

So I go down and Trailer my brothers bike home to my house and get it up on the lift, I cleaned the fuel pump fuse and even with my failed hearing I can hear it energize and shut  after it pressurizes the system. The Bike has no Ignition spark, and the ignition wire at the switch has been hot and melted some plastic on the switch plug. So my brother wasn't truthful with me about putting fuel in the intake and it firing. ( he Drinks a bit) so what is the test procedure for the single fire coil>  it's a 31743-01. No spark so what am I looking for Crank position sensor, coil and ECM. This bike hasn't seen much road time in the past 3 years and it ran last week but hasn't been anywhere since parked it the garage. No codes to check because it has a Dakota digital speedometer and I don't know how to extract them from it.

Geezer_Glider

Check switch continuity. Repair or replace ignition switch. The rest of the system is probably OK. Known problem with the tank mounted switches (even some dash mounted ones).
R Meyer

Mule

Once I discovered the wire had been hot and melted some of the plastic, I removed the switch cleaned it and checked it for continuity, it checked good.

Mule

I wound up fixing the bike with the help from guys on shovelhead USA.

Hossamania

If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

Mule

They supplied me with a Great wiring diagram , and information on what to look for and Voltage /Ohm specs for the individual components . The coil failed the secondary resistance test, and the CKP failed the resistance test as well. I replaced them both and it fired right up. The coil may or may not have been bad  but it failed the OHM test so I replaced it anyway as new surplus OEM coils are available cheap. Without a service manual , lack of an OEM speedometer (dakota digital) and no access to a scan tool up here I had no way of getting fault codes, so I was in the dark .