2005 FLHRCI running rough

[rigidthumper]

Pop the CKP connector off, and check for a bent pin. They tend to bend quite easily, and lose contact...

[RoadKingKohn]

Found the problem 

The connection to the starter solenoid fell off. It must have gotten knocked off when I was checking the speed sensor for metal filings.

I have had it fall off a long time ago from vibration.

Next purchase is a replacement connector.

Thank you gentlemen.

[Tacocaster]

Thanks for the update! Good to hear you easily found it.

Back to your original problem.....because you have Cruise, did you measure (with Ohmmeter) to obtain the IDLE Cable adjustment?

[RoadKingKohn]

Thanks for the update! Good to hear you easily found it.

Back to your original problem.....because you have Cruise, did you measure (with Ohmmeter) to obtain the IDLE Cable adjustment?

Thanks for the reminder.

Now that I have it running I will have to do that on Friday.

[RoadKingKohn]

You're welcome. In case you don't have an SM :

Using the Ohmmeter set at 200 range, meter clips (polarity unimportant) attached at the CC switch tangs of the Idle cable (front of the Tank at the frame's backbone) and Throttle cable already adjusted using the tab on the T-Body for WOT. While watching the Ohmmeter, rotate the Throttle grip clockwise to close the throttle completely (don't force it). The meter will ready infinity (open) as you lengthen the Idle Cable adjuster until you see a short circuit (small resistance value ~ 5 Ohms or less). Lock-down the Idle adjuster there. Additional step would be to cycle the CC to set cable lash using the Resume function.

Interesting to note, my issue didn't appear until many miles/days later.

I am not getting any reading at all.

I do have a little bit of movement before there is any tension on the cable.

[Tacocaster]

Yes, you should have a very small (as in ~1/8") movement at IDLE position before cable slack is taken-up and the butterfly/cable should snap back to IDLE position when released from a WOT position.
 
What if you completely close the throttle until it comes to a complete stop with a very firm effort applied? If the adjuster is all the way out (lengthened) you should definitely have a reading.

If you can't get a reading there's a chance the Switch is bad and the IDLE cable would have to be replaced to retain the Throttle Closed Cruise Control Deactivation feature.

[RoadKingKohn]

Yes, you should have a very small (as in ~1/8") movement at IDLE position before cable slack is taken-up and the butterfly/cable should snap back to IDLE position when released from a WOT position.
 
What if you completely close the throttle until it comes to a complete stop with a very firm effort applied? If the adjuster is all the way out (lengthened) you should definitely have a reading.

If you can't get a reading there's a chance the Switch is bad and the IDLE cable would have to be replaced to retain the Throttle Closed Cruise Control Deactivation feature.

I did try a firm close and still had no readings.

I am going to have to put my wife to work to move the throttle while I place the clips on the tabs and watch the meter.

On another note. The 30 mile ride I took yesterday the cruise was working but the engine was still running rough.

Looking now a pulling out the injectors testing and cleaning them.

While I am at it I might just replace everything in the tank with Quantum Fuel Pump, filter, regulator and hoses. Everything but the filter is 18 years old.

P.S  I was able to get a 3 Ohms reading with throttle rolled forward.

[fbn ent]

Just for S**ts 'n giggles mix some Marvel Mystery Oil in with your gas. It helped my stumble issues and quieted a noisy pump on the wife's sporty.

So...you didn't put a new or known good crank sensor in? I would....

[RoadKingKohn]

Just for S**ts 'n giggles mix some Marvel Mystery Oil in with your gas. It helped my stumble issues and quieted a noisy pump on the wife's sporty.

So...you didn't put a new or known good crank sensor in? I would....

I did put in a new Drag Specialties CKP.

My bike does not stubble. I have excellent acceleration. It just shakes really bad to the point that it makes it hard to see down the road.

It has smoothed out some with all of the parts I have replaced but it still is not like it was in July 2023.

I have been using Bell Performance Ethanol Defense for 10 years and Mix-I-Go before that with every single tank of fuel. Bell's products have been around since 1909.

[Tacocaster]

Good to hear you got the 3 Ohms reading.

So, at no additional cost, albeit a bit of a hassle but now you know how to properly adjust your IDLE Cable w/ Cruise and eliminated a throttle-related possibility.

Excellent acceleration......but shakes......hmmmmm.....

The following are only suggestions. You can throw money at it and eventually you will likely cure this problem or maybe one of our more astute members knows exactly what the issue is but failing that.....

Again, I like to check no-cost possibilities first (being a cheap-azz) and wondering if you have spoked wheels? Wheel weights (if any originally) still in place?

Can you SAFELY & CAREFULLY raise the rear wheel and run through a couple of gears (hold rpm's where the vibration occurs)? You only need to raise it ~ 2 inches.

Many issues are caused by recent work being performed. Sometimes that work would seem to be totally un-related to the performer but to the trained (not me) mechanic the likely cause. Have you done ANYTHING since last July? This is where an up to date Bike Service Journal comes in handy.

[RoadKingKohn]

Good to hear you got the 3 Ohms reading.

So, at no additional cost, albeit a bit of a hassle but now you know how to properly adjust your IDLE Cable w/ Cruise and eliminated a throttle-related possibility.

Excellent acceleration......but shakes......hmmmmm.....

The following are only suggestions. You can throw money at it and eventually you will likely cure this problem or maybe one of our more astute members knows exactly what the issue is but failing that.....

Again, I like to check no-cost possibilities first (being a cheap-azz) and wondering if you have spoked wheels? Wheel weights (if any originally) still in place?

Can you SAFELY & CAREFULLY raise the rear wheel and run through a couple of gears (hold rpm's where the vibration occurs)? You only need to raise it ~ 2 inches.

Many issues are caused by recent work being performed. Sometimes that work would seem to be totally un-related to the performer but to the trained (not me) mechanic the likely cause. Have you done ANYTHING since last July? This is where an up to date Bike Service Journal comes in handy.

No work on the bike since July other than the listed parts replaced.

I use Dyna beads in my tires for balancing.

Interesting thing is when I am at speed of say 55mph I can pull in the clutch let the rpms drop and the bike is super smooth.

Hmmmm 

This just made me think. I wonder if there is something wrong with my clutch?

I am getting 46 to 48 mpg on long country rides.

I am a natural cheap ass. I don't believe in replacing things until it is broken. But I am all about having a safe ride under me and will spend the extra money to make sure that it is.

[Tacocaster]

"I use Dyna beads in my tires for balancing.

Interesting thing is when I am at speed of say 55mph I can pull in the clutch let the rpms drop and the bike is super smooth."

I'm not familiar with the benefits/issues of using Dyna beads for balancing but I think you've eliminated that potential issue. I'll leave that to the forum's experienced to address further, if necessary.
 
Clutch disengagement smooths it out? Now, I think you're getting somewhere and sure someone with more experience in our community can offer suggestions related to the Clutch, P. Chain and C. Basket that you can easily check. Betcha you're going to need Primary Fluid after resolving this issue 

p.s. I don't think you'll need to raise the rear wheel anymore.

[kd]

I think your thread title and previous description has sent this thread down the wrong road.  Now you're describing a bike that is vibrating at a certain speed / RPM.  If it's coasting with the clutch and it goes smooth, it's a drive train issue before the clutch pac.  Your clutch is allowing the engine rpm to fall below the vibration level and the rolling chassis is probably not a problem. We now need a more clear description.

Does the exhaust note change as it enters the vibration?  If so it may be an engine "tune" problem.

If in neutral (and also when in gear with the clutch in) does it begin to shake / vibrate as you increase the engine rpm to the 55 mph rpm level (and the exhaust note does not change), your problem is likely in  the engine to the primary drive.

On the road, if you run it up in each gear (to the same rpm as it vibrates in your description on the highway speed) will it begin to shake / vibrate?  Your problem is likely in  the engine to the primary drive.

When you pull in the clutch and release the plates you are omitting the possibility it is in the drive train after the clutch.  If it vibrates with the clutch engaged the engine and primary drive mechanical components are suspect.  (that is if the exhaust note doesn't change indicating a miss in the engine)

If any of the engine to primary conditions as described occur it's probably time to remove the primary cover and inspect those components.  The compensating sprocket mounting, chain condition for a stretched section and even engine main drive sprocket shaft runout are candidates.  The comp coming loose or being damaged is fairly common.  A chain issue not so much but still needs to be checked if the comp passes inspection.   Last would be the crank runout and that can and should be checked when the comp assembly is removed for inspection.

Let us know how this goes.

   

[RoadKingKohn]

I think your thread title and previous description has sent this thread down the wrong road.  Now you're describing a bike that is vibrating at a certain speed / RPM.  If it's coasting with the clutch and it goes smooth, it's a drive train issue before the clutch pac.  Your clutch is allowing the engine rpm to fall below the vibration level and the rolling chassis is probably not a problem. We now need a more clear description.

Does the exhaust note change as it enters the vibration?  If so it may be an engine "tune" problem.

If in neutral (and also when in gear with the clutch in) does it begin to shake / vibrate as you increase the engine rpm to the 55 mph rpm level (and the exhaust note does not change), your problem is likely in  the engine to the primary drive.

On the road, if you run it up in each gear (to the same rpm as it vibrates in your description on the highway speed) will it begin to shake / vibrate?  Your problem is likely in  the engine to the primary drive.

When you pull in the clutch and release the plates you are omitting the possibility it is in the drive train after the clutch.  If it vibrates with the clutch engaged the engine and primary drive mechanical components are suspect.  (that is if the exhaust note doesn't change indicating a miss in the engine)

If any of the engine to primary conditions as described occur it's probably time to remove the primary cover and inspect those components.  The compensating sprocket mounting, chain condition for a stretched section and even engine main drive sprocket shaft runout are candidates.  The comp coming loose or being damaged is fairly common.  A chain issue not so much but still needs to be checked if the comp passes inspection.   Last would be the crank runout and that can and should be checked when the comp assembly is removed for inspection.

Let us know how this goes.

   

Thank you.

I should get another chance to ride it on 09/26/23.

It would be really nice if I had a tachometer that way I could pin down the rpms where things happen.

I had forgotten about the compensator nut problem.

I did not notice a change in the exhaust note but then I was not listening to it. I will do that on the next ride.

Winter of 2021 I put a new S&S oil pump and cam plate in and seals on the transmission, primary and engine. I checked the run out at that time on the flywheel on both sides. .0015 sprocket, ,002 cam side

Tightened (torqued) and aligned the sprockets per the HD manual.

Looks like I have a lot of checking to do on the primary side. $$$

[RoadKingKohn]

Got to do a 70mph 10 mile run on Sunday. Acceleration was good, vibration was less than at 55mph, exhaust sound remained even based on rpms. I did not hear any misfires.

Today I was on a 22 mile ride. Speeds from 25 to 55mph.  Bad vibration felt in the foot boards at 35 in 3rd gear and 55 in 5th gear. 45 mph in 5th gear was a lot smoother.

The handlebars are not getting much vibration.

I hope to look into the primary drive on Tuesday.

[kd]

That sounds like it's about one step forward. It's obviously rpm oriented as it seems to occur in each gear in a similar fashion.  I'm thinking if the crank runout is still as tight as it was, it may be found in the primary before the transmission.  Let's hope it is somewhat obvious when you dig into it.

[RoadKingKohn]

That sounds like it's about one step forward. It's obviously rpm oriented as it seems to occur in each gear in a similar fashion.  I'm thinking if the crank runout is still as tight as it was, it may be found in the primary before the transmission.  Let's hope it is somewhat obvious when you dig into it.

I am fortunate enough to have a Twin Cam with a tension access plate. So my first move was to remove that and check the chain tension. It was loose so I tightened it up and will see if that fixed it.

Now it just needs to stop raining.

[RoadKingKohn]

Had a chance for a short run today.

Engine was running smoother after readjusting the primary chain tensioner.  I am going to try for a longer ride on Monday.

Acceleration seemed a little rough but cruising at 25, 35 and 45mph were all pretty smooth.