Apehanger riser clamp

[Hossamania]

I'm looking for a top clamp that has locking set screws to keep apes from slipping in the risers. I've seen it listed before in a thread here I think, but can't seem to find it, try as I might. Can anyone here help me find it? I figured it would be easier to use that than drill and pin the bars and probably damage the internal wiring. This for a friends bike.
I thought it was a Burly product, but no luck on their site, nor Biltwell.
Thank you.

[Ohio HD]

Gorilla Grabber

[Hossamania]

Thank you, thats what I was looking for.

[ThumperDeuce]

Would these work?

https://wild1inc.com/shop/ols/products/1-14-clamping-savage-risers-3-tall

[Hossamania]

Would these work?

https://wild1inc.com/shop/ols/products/1-14-clamping-savage-risers-3-tall

Probably not as well, they don't have set screws that that penetrate the bars directly like a pin, but thank you.
I see they have a different one though that does have similar set screws to the Gorilla, and $150 cheaper than the billet Savage Risers!

[JW113]

Educate me. What is different with '97+ clamps than '96- clamps?

-JW

[thumpr54]

sorta related....I had seen mentions in the past but can't seem to find the posts...on these older risers(pix) that don't use the clamp in this thread. ......ideas for options to keep the bars from slipping in these risers ?

Thanx, Talk

[ThumperDeuce]

Have a machinist cut some type of cross hatch into the riser to increase friction?

[kd]

I have used valve grinding compound in a "thin" film layer to add traction in similar cases.  I haven't on bars but can't see why it won't work.  If you or a friend has some it's free to try. 

[cheech]

sorta related....I had seen mentions in the past but can't seem to find the posts...on these older risers(pix) that don't use the clamp in this thread. ......ideas for options to keep the bars from slipping in these risers ?

Thanx, Talk

Visible set screws don't look so good on those style risers.
Got nothing apart for pics as that would show it well. And there is no adjustment this way after set! So be sure they are where you want them.
I have 16 inch monkey bars on my Road King. Hated the feel of those slipping. I even got solid riser bushings because I hate that "sponginess" also.

What I've done on mine and a few more is drilled the bottom riser in the center for a 1/4" dowel pin. The top clamp could also be done. Just as long as you don't break through other side.
Grind a point on some 1/4" deheaded screws/rod/set screws or whatever fits in the drilled hole rather loose so a magnet can draw them out.
I insert those in the holes, mock the bars up, snug the clamps to transfer the dimples to the bars. Remove bars, drill those with the corresponding drill, use magnet to draw "transfer punches" out of risers. Drive in dowels that protrude about 1/4" above riser inner radius and assemble.
Works like a charm for me. Absolute rock solid, no movement. YMMV!!

[Boe Cole]

In a situation like this, I'd be tempted to cut a few pieces of 400 grit sandpaper and put them between the bar and clamps.  Worth a try if nothing else......

[Hossamania]

In a situation like this, I'd be tempted to cut a few pieces of 400 grit sandpaper and put them between the bar and clamps.  Worth a try if nothing else......

Did this, didn't work. Emery cloth, no good. Plumbers sanding screen, nope. I doubt lapping compound or loctite will work. Drilling and pinning or using a set screw is what I have found works. I like the idea of the hidden pin in the riser.
That's what by I'm interested in this top clamp with the set screws, easier than drilling and tapping. Safer too so I don't hit the internal wiring, gotten lucky so far on two sets, but it's nerve racking. On the RoadKing the top clamp is hidden, so no issues with aesthetics.

[cheech]

On the RoadKing the top clamp is hidden, so no issues with aesthetics.

Exactly. I probably would of went right down through the top clamp with the dowels on my Road King. Or maybe even a dog point set screw with corresponding holes in the bars. Dog Point Pics
But prior I did a set on a buddies Dyna that has exposed risers and clamps, so came up with the hidden pin.
So just been doing that on any of them. I mock up and drill prior to fishing the wires through.

[ThumperDeuce]

How about green loctite?

[Hossamania]

How about green loctite?

I honestly don't think any type of glue will hold. A lot of leverage is put on those bars, eventually it will bust loose. I've actually broken two risers over the years, pretty sure the glue would have let loose before that.

[kd]

Might be better to have them slip than break right of in the middle of a hard shift of some other aggressive act.     Think canary in the coal mine.

[Hossamania]

Might be better to have them slip than break right of in the middle of a hard shift of some other aggressive act.     Think canary in the coal mine.

Having them slip forward under hard braking will get your attention! After 5 or 6 attempts at keeping them from slipping, I pinned them and have been happy. Yes a riser broke twice in 20 years, but I knew it right away, and no drama. Apes are really not a perfect choice in bars...

[kd]

Drag bars have always been my favorite.  I learned early on that the forward lean sitting position reduces the shock to the spine (on a rigid).  With long treks on the highway the wind will actually cup on your chest and hold you up reducing back strain to.  Since my first windshield I had to rethink the wind thing but the forward lean is still helpful to me.  It's funny, the first week with a windshield I was always speeding because it turned out my brain used the wind as a speedo. 

[Rockout Rocker Products]

How about green loctite?

Back in my ape hanger days I had great success with Loctite 620. It's made specifically for keeping cylindrical parts from rotating & has a 2500 PSI shear strength.

Doesn't cost much to try 

[Hossamania]

I will have to give it a try.

[doctorevil]

i grab the tig or mig put 3 small dots on each clamping surface this bites into the bar slip free

[thumpr54]

I like the pinning idea...and if I was installing new bars that'd be the way to go......however the wires are already run thru...almost 40 years ago.....wasn't too much of a problem back then...was my first Harley project...my brother's wrecked 80 FXE(bought new)....maybe I'm harder on em in my fat old age....anyways...to pin em now ....assuming I took a chance and tried to drill em without removing the wires ..probably not a good idea.....probably have a bur on the inside of the drilled holes. I'm guessing trying to remove those old wires would be a PIA...and easily create more problems....decisions...decisions...

[Hossamania]

I drilled mine with the wires installed inside the bars. The wires were all taped together at install, as I drilled I tried to push, pull, beg the wires as far from the hole as possible, and then gently drilled through the bar, bumping the drill trigger rather than just going straight thru at speed. It worked. If I remember right, I may have even tried to slip a thin piece of metal inside the bar to try and protect the wires. So I know it can be done, it's just a little nerve racking. Hence, my original query about the locking clamp to avoid having to do that again.

[roadkingdresser]

on the 2014 streetglide i've drilled 4 1/8" holes across the riser and  put small allen head bolts in and titen them to the bars. have done a bunch and nobody has complained yet.

[jmorton10]

i grab the tig or mig put 3 small dots on each clamping surface this bites into the bar slip free

I've done that too 

~John